N_da_Mood

Well to start this build thread off I will give you the background. I bought a 92 off of my friend and got an 86 and 83 for free. All of them are in rough shape. But I did figure since I have three I could make a pretty decent thirdgen instead of scrapping them, or parting them out. I decided to restore the 86 because it has a tilt wheel and t-tops unlike the 83. and the 92 has rusted out floor pans. To start it out I stripped the interior and started repairing chipmunk chewed wires. Then removed the V-6.not knowing that it had been wrecked I am now in the process of cutting out a chunk of the front end of the 92. I will post pictures soon. Thanks for reading!

N_da_Mood

I should also note that both the 86 and the 83 have not been moved or started in over 15 years. I am taking the 305 out of the 83 and rebuilding it as we speak. But being 21 and in college it is a slow process and I am learning along the way

white1991rs

Should be a fun project good luck with it man!

N_da_Mood

Thanks I appreciate it, it will be a great experience.

N_da_Mood

Here are a few pictures from the start of the interior strip. As you can see there is pretty much nothing salvageable. But I did keep the plastic. The rear bumper cover was done for, the bumper, and cover is shot. But I do have a bumper off an 84 Z that is still good, and a rear bumper off of an 83 that is good. Somehow the dash that was in the 83 that sat for 15 years outside, was completely crack free. Not 1 crack. Some people might think I am crazy for restoring a third gen in this condition but I think it is doable.

N_da_Mood

As you can see from these photos some dummy did not know how to jack up a car so the rocker panels need fixed on both sides. On the front piece of the frame on the passenger side it had been smashed and bondo'd. This caused alot of rust that I had to plasma cut out, and I am going to replace it with the part out of the frame out of the 92. It was slightly different but I think I can make it fit.

N_da_Mood

The last couple of pictures are of the parts that I cut out myself, Trying to familiarize myself with a plasma cutter so the cuts are not that great, But you can see where it was smashed and what I need to replace, I also started stripping the engine bay.

N_da_Mood

Crazy weather in Ohio 70 degrees one day, Five inches of snow the next couldn't work on the body like I want to so I prepped the motor to take to the machine shop where it is at now. What was interesting about this motor is it is a 305 but it has a 350 Crank? Hopefully it will still work. It has also been recently rebuilt so it has some good parts but not all. Still brand new bearings, but since I am rebuilding It I may as well put new bearings in it.

90camaro355rs

Nice Project, Keep us posted on the progress.

N_da_Mood

Here are some pictures of the actual car and a picture of the crank with the 350 stamp, I assume that is what it is

N_da_Mood

I plan on it, Being a college student just leaves me weekends to work but I have some plans for this car. Ill keep the posts up though for sure. I was thinking about using the bedliner spray for the engine bay, Does anyone else think this is reasonable?

90camaro355rs

Not sure, could be a mark the builder put on there at one time, I would look at the casting number to make sure.

In reguards to the bearings, I would replace them all, crank, rods, cam. I would have the crank checked, rods checked, Just to be safe, it is money well spent. Engine will last longer, I would even have the line bore checked, deck the block, at least have it checked, I would have the heads checked as well. cracks see if the need surfaced.

What are your plans for the engine, new cam lifters, springs on the heads, maybe a valve job?

I now this is a lot, just listing some ideas as well as asking.

90camaro355rs

imo I would just paint it, its your car, bedliner might be kinda neat.

N_da_Mood

Well when my dad and brother bought the car in the 90's it already had this engine and they were told it was a 350. The casting numbers for the heads are for a 350. But the block is actually a 305. But I am rebuilding it, I just took it to the machine shop to do everything you just said, acid dip, freeze plugs, heads, block. They are going to bore it 60 over also. They have the crank and are checking it also. But after my brother had it the car got hit 2 months later and the motor has sat 15 years untouched. But when I took it apart I noticed all of the new seals and bearings, so it had been recently rebuilt

Anyways, I am putting a bigger cam in it, boring it over. But I am still trying to find a good high performance cam with a choppy idle. Not sure how to get much more power out of it besides those things. This is the first engine I have actually taken apart and stuff

N_da_Mood

Ya I have a while to decide, I mean I know that I wouldnt have to worry about rust or anything, but the texture and weight, if any, could be a problem. And it would cost alot more.

blackbmagic

a 350 crank in a 305 will work but it will vibrate like crazy. The 350 has much heavier counterweights than the 305 crank. Very very unlikely that the 350 crank was balanced with the rods and pistons being that it would cost $$ and 305 cranks are a dime a dozen.

Take it out and replace it with a stock 305 crank.

N_da_Mood

Well when I took it out I noticed a few huge drilled spots where it looks like someone has balanced it before. But I'm having the machine shop look at it to see what they say. They might have one to trade he said

N_da_Mood

Well I had an interesting weekend working on the project. The motor is still at the local machine shop. Which is super slow. Took the gauges out and painted the face and chromed the back for a better reflection of the light.

BD1CBAB0-71F7-470B-B94A-3B16A04ADD2E-5587-000002F25451320F_zps7816492b.jpg?t=1364862965

438EBDE7-F97B-49EB-AB88-0285ADA8FD37-5587-000002F2520D9FEC_zpsa0c6bda4.jpg?t=1364862964

Then I went ahead and kept working on the front section that had been hit. I got the donor camaro and cut the piece out of there and also welded the piece of frame back on.

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N_da_Mood

I did end up cutting out more from the project car so I could get a little bit more rust out. But I forgot to take a picture of the welds on the frame I put back on. First time welder so I thought it was pretty good (my dads a good teacher haha) but all I have left on this part is to put this piece

A811F76B-CEAA-41CA-938A-49887F7D1877-5587-000002F257F4D479_zps2c03c465.jpg?t=1364862968

into this section

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Definitely going to be a slow process of fitting it correctly.

Next up is painting the engine bay, wiring it for the gauges and the new glowshift gauges I purchased, Kill switches, etc. I chose to get the Transmission temp gauge, air/fuel ratio gauge, and fuel pressure gauge.

N_da_Mood

Putting the original 700r4 transmission back in it. I worked on cleaning the layers upon layers of dirt and grease off of it so I can paint it but it too is a slow process and was thinking of putting a good shift kit in while it is off of the car, if anyone has any good recommendations.

N_da_Mood

Long time no post, been working on the project though, rear end is finished new e-brake cables, brake lines, refinished the tank, straps, paint, wheel cylinders, brakes obviously. Engine is also built but not in the car, looking for a holley carb the front panel has also been welded in. Pictures coming soon.

I am looking for a good carb also.

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

The engine looks nice! I have a question though. Are those the 350 heads you mention earlier? If so... Isn't that gonna be super low compression with those dish pistons?

N_da_Mood

I forgot to take a picture of the final engine view, I put a chrome 110 amp alternator and stuff... about the compression, they are now 305 heads, only because the 350 heads were cracked so the machine shop sold me those for 40 dollars total. I told them to maximize the performance for me so they gave me a good cam and those pistons, I hope it works. He said it was the first 305 he ever saw with a steel crank.

N_da_Mood

Also forgot to take a picture of the sending unit that a made for a mechanical fuel pump, new lower control arms and lots of sanding and primer and paint. The rear is done.

Before



Primed



After

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure it'll work good with the 305 heads, I was just concerned you were putting large chamber 350 heads on a 305 with dished pistons.

N_da_Mood

Good haha, had me worried there for a minute cause this is my first build and I am doing most of this by myself so learning along the way, with some help from my dad. I will try to post more often.

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

Post #20. You may already have it finished, but I have a transGo kit, corvette servo, and a 2500 converter in my 700R4. It shifts strong behind my305. You have to be careful on a wet road and if you get aggressive with it it'll slip sideways at every shift on dry pavement.

N_da_Mood

I don't have it finished yet, because I switched to a th350 transmission but I was planning on using a shift kit in that one too. Hopefully it will have the same effect in a th350.

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

It will have the same effect in a TH350. TransGo sells a good kit for those too. I guess you already know you'll have to fab a torque arm mount using a TH350?

N_da_Mood

well luckily since I have three parts cars Im using to make this one, one of them had the th350 in it and it had the torque arm mount already, so I got lucky there

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

Good deal!

N_da_Mood

I do have one issue though, I'm not sure what converter I should run. Any suggestions? And is a 650 carb good?

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

A 650 carb may be pushing it on a 305. Is it vac secondary? If so you'll be able to get away with more. Is that TH350 factory from that other parts car? If it is, it will be a TH350 with a lockup converter. Idk what all kinds of converters they make for those. You may be able to run a NON lockup converter in it. You'll need to do some research on that. As far as stall speed goes between 2-2500 will be good for the street assuming you're not running really high gears.

N_da_Mood

Well I don't have the carb yet. But I'm looking for one. And I wasn't sure weather 650 or 600. But the engine is bored 60 over if that makes a different in the carb. The transmission looks original because the bracket is original. But I'm not 100% sure. It's coming out of an 83. I think it's just a 3 speed if that helps.

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

I was just doing a bit of searching and I believe the trans out of your older car is a 200C, not a 350.

N_da_Mood

Ok so th200c... I haven't had the chance to really check the trans out yet, would it be worth using the 200c or trying to find another transmission?

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't use it. Any particular reason why you don't want the 700R4? There are several threads on switching to a 350 trans and how to use the tailshaft housing and drive shaft from the 700R4 if your dead set on a 3 speed trans.

N_da_Mood

The 700r4 that I have which is 2 of them turn out to be from a V6 I wasn't aware of that when I was planning on using it.

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

Well sounds like you need to buy a trans no matter what. If it was me I would put a good 700 in it, but if you want a 350 there are threads here that tell you exactly how to do it using the tailshaft housing from one of those V6 700's and everything will work like factory.

N_da_Mood

yea... Thanks for the information though, I am glad this got figured out sooner than later... one more thing, would a 600 cfm holley be a good choice? This is my first build so I am learning along the way.. Thanks

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

A 600 vac secondary should be fine.

N_da_Mood

Alright that's what I will look for. Thanks again. I will post some pictures of the front suspension work soon. It's a rusty mess.

N_da_Mood

Tear down of the front end has been started. Should be finished taking the k member off this weekend to derust everything. If anyone has some good tips on large amounts of rust. I used a wire brush on the rear. And fast etch.

Here's the before I got it off the car.







After it was removed. I figured it would be easier to take the stuff off the knuckle like the ball joint and stuff after it was removed.










Now just the k member is left.

N_da_Mood

Not sure why the pictures are so small I posted them with the iphone app, if you click them they are larger... And if anyone wondered what paint I used on the block and intake it was eastwoods ceramic engine enamal, Hemi orange and black.

N_da_Mood

Transmission question. I have looked at the transmission I have and still think it may be a th350. But am still not sure of the difference between a 200c and a 350. So ill post some pictures and hopefully we can figure it out.


















I am fairly sure the pan has 13 bolts.

N_da_Mood

Any ideas?

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

That's definitely a 350.

N_da_Mood

Great that's better than the 200c. So a good shift kit, paint and cleaning and it'll be ready to go