KDMatt

Hey guys, my name is Matt and I just wanted to introduce myself as a new owner on the boards and reach out to anyone that might be nearby.

I've owned and worked on many cars over the years, but this is my first foray into "American Muscle" (as my '12 3.7 liter Mustang arguably doesn't count, despite its numbers.)

I just brought home an '82 Trans Am that has just over 54,000 miles on it. The history I've got shows it to be a one-owner car, and from what I know it spent most of its life sitting in a garage.

She's got a few minor mechanical things wrong with her (and I'm hoping you guys can't maybe point me to some good sticky threads to help me sift through some of it), but her body and frame are totally rust-free and clean.

The ultimate end-game for me is completing a childhood dream and building a Knight Rider replica (and I pounced on this one because it has both the T-tops and the PMD interior, even though it's the wrong color scheme) but for the time being I just want to get this car running and driving as safely and reliably as I can. My other half is eager to drive it, since this is my first automatic in years, and she's never been too great with the stick.

At any rate, I'd love to discuss some of the things I need to fix and the work I need to do, but in the mean time. Hello!

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

First off... Welcome Matt!

Second thing....complete your profile so all know what you have as in Engine/Trans/Gear Combo and other particulars.

This forum has tons of information for you to do just about ANYTHING! The members are very knowledgeable and even friendly at times...joking there.

Just don't be afraid of a little ribbin here and there once in awhile, it can get pretty wild. Just step up and hold your own!

Also, Don't be afraid to use the search button for most of the answers. They are out there, you'll find em.

KDMatt

Hey there Bob, thanks for the reply!

Don't sweat it -- I've been on many different car forums for many years, and I've discovered that each car/brand has its own culture. I expect a little friendly BS here and there. It's all in the spirit of good fun and swapping info.


On that subject though, seeing as I'm not really a "GM Guy," how do I look up/check out which trans and diff I've got? I didn't think there were too many combinations.

Engine-wise It's the 305 with Crossfire EFI, which I understand is a bit rare, but also kind of a PITA. I've only ever worked with EFI so I'm not really intimidated by it (especially after working on some of the Bosch systems from the late 70's and early 80's) -- I'm more concerned about getting access to all of the components I need to reach under the hood. I'm used to cars with ample engine space, but that V8 really takes up a lot of space! How do I even get to the sparkplugs?

I'm pretty confident already that I've got a vacuum leak on my hands -- she's got a bit of a stumble in her idle, idles high, and at speed I can hear something whistling under the hood that changes pitch when changing throttle.

She needs a new brake caliper too, oh and the tach is sticky/wonky (I hear this is a common problem.) Oh, and the electric trunk release on the dash doesn't work. Other than that everything seems to work.

Are there some good threads you can point me to? Thanks again! Glad to be here.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty confident already that I've got a vacuum leak on my hands -- she's got a bit of a stumble in her idle, idles high, and at speed I can hear something whistling under the hood that changes pitch when changing throttle. This sounds like a vacuum leak....check EGR operation, also, pull the codes

She needs a new brake caliper too, oh and the tach is sticky/wonky (I hear this is a common problem.) Oh, and the electric trunk release on the dash doesn't work. Other than that everything seems to work. Tach can be troubleshot with a thread on here, not sure where, do a search, you can send it out for repair, or do it youself.
Trunk release....follow normal power trace,solenoid operation, it may be sticky...remove solenoid in trunk area and see if you got power to it and go from there. Also, IIRC, there is a plunger switch linked to the E-Brake for the hatch operation, it may be toast.
Brake caliper.....Rockauto.com

KDMatt

I'm probably going to need some wiring diagrams, that being what it is.

As someone who's been 'in the trenches' for a while, what's the recommended repair manual? Some communities I've been in only use the FSM, while others find the Haynes or Chilton ones sufficient.

The Datsun guys just pass around PDF rips of the original FSM, not sure what everyone swears by around here.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Your best bet would be the FSM. Check online, Helms,they often have a special. Just be prepared to spend about a Buck and a quarter.
(Unless you got connections with someone who has it pdf. or something.)

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

For starters

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

two more

84'Firebird

iTrader: (1)

Nice to see someone with another early third gen. Was it the White 82' in Newport with the red interior?

KDMatt

@Bob Awesome! Thanks! That'll help me get started. I just found a used FSM on ebay super cheap as well. I'll have that next week.

The very same! I saw what he originally wanted for it the very first time he listed it, talk about yikes! After having it sit on his lot for a few months with very little interest, he was willing to wheel and deal.

Like I said in my intro, most of the stuff that I see wrong with it is pretty minor IMHO and could probably be fixed in a weekend or two, with the exception of the valve seals. Other than that, it seems to be a really clean, well-preserved car.

84'Firebird

iTrader: (1)

Yea it's a very nice car, I've checked it out a few times. The price was high there for awhile. I have some family over there. It's pretty clean. I did like the PMD seats. I don't think the red is very common. Glad to see somebody picked it up!

KDMatt

Thanks!

By the by, how do I determine which tranny and diff I've got? If the tach were working correctly, I could probably guess based on how many shifts I observe, but not the case right now.

84'Firebird

iTrader: (1)

You have the 3 speed 200c trans, as far as the gear ratio you either have to find the tag on the diff, or decode the RPO codes under the arm rest. I think 3.23 are fairly common as well as the 3.08.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Welcome Matt, (sorry about that). I'm over in western wi. about an hour from the cities. I copied this from the "home" page; https://www.thirdgen.org/1982-pontiac-firebird

KDMatt

Hey guys, belated thanks for the additional replies! I made a vow to get somewhat caught up on my other cars I needed to work on around here before tinkering with the T/A ... and with a couple of weekends passed, and my other baby back on the road I dove in and started seeing what I could find.

First thing I did was clean up the EGR a bit -- It was still operating just fine as far as I can tell, but I shot a bit of of carb cleaner in there anyway since it was still pretty black in there.

I did the cap and rotor too, saw some evidence of arcing on the rotor, hard to describe really, but it looked like the metal connection between the coil and the bottom of the metal connector had gotten pushed through or something. I replaced all of that, cleaned up the connections and everything and now the wackiness with the tach is gone.

Also found the vacuum leak -- one of the hoses on the backs of the throttle bodies had come out, and when I reconnected it the idle simmered down a bit, but it's still got a pretty nasty stumble. I'll probably try to tackle sparkplugs next (I waited because I also poured a bit of seafoam into the intakes, just to help decarbonize a bit)... but if not those... idle air control valves?

Tested for other vacuum leaks and didn't find any.

Also I think I need to track down the diagram for the fuse box in my FSM, I think someone might have pulled one or two. I've got no dome light or interior lights, no trunk light, and the remote trunk release doesn't work either (as I mentioned before). I'm going to take a peek in the manual but I can't help but wonder if they're on the same circuit.

Oh, and let me know if I'm overstaying my welcome on this board by asking technical questions. Just figured I'd ask since I had your guys' attention.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

You never can ask enough questions. That's how we learn things. As far as the dome light etc., the cig. lighter is usually the culprit for burning fuses. Your on the right track with doing the basic maintenance first. With these cars being over 30 years old, they need all the help they can get.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

That's what this forum is all about! Sharing all the knowledge from all the members. Don't be afraid to ask ANYTHING on here.

KDMatt

Haha, fair enough guys, fair enough. I just meant within the confines of this thread.

I'm going to check the fuse box diagram when I get home.

Also, no horn either. I'm wondering if the previous owner might have yanked a couple of fuses out as a way to skirt around a parasitic draw or something.

It's going to be a gorgeous weekend, it sure would be nice to drive the T/A to work on Friday, especially with the T-tops off.

Oh, and wobbly speedo. I hear that's also a common problem, and from what I've read it's pretty easy to fix since I've got cruise? Just pull off the speedo cable and put a few drops of tranny fluid in, right? Anything else to know on that?

Thanks again.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

No sense in starting new threads with each individual issues when they're all listed here in one. Just start checking them off as they get repaired. You'll get there eventually.........just not over night!

plum92_camaro

Welcome!!

KDMatt

Thanks plum!

I've been making progress slowly but surely, I replaced all the belts tonight and replaced the fan clutch (the old one was sticky and noisy,) so that's all golden so far.

Hit my first setback though. I pulled out the IACV's to clean 'em up, and when I was reinstalling the first one it snapped in half when I was screwing it back in, the threads stuck in the throttle body. I was very very lucky that enough was left protruding out that I was able to take a screwdriver and a hammer and tap what was left back out.

Now I just need to find a replacement IACV.... in fact I should just bite the bullet and do 'em both at the same time. That's not something that any of the shops around here are likely to stock, so I'm going to have to call around to see who can get me one the fastest.

KDMatt

Hey guys, I'm making more progress, but I've got a couple more questions for you.

After taking care of the IACV's I started tackling the brakes. I'm trying to bleed the right front caliper and I'm getting absolutely zero fluid flowing to it, even when I disconnect the caliper entirely there's nothing coming out of the hose. According to the FSM my culprits could be a binded brake line or a faulty "metering valve."

My question is, is this valve adjustable or serviceable in any way? There's not a lot of info about it in the FSM and I'm thinking that might be my problem.

Also, what's the best way to tackle the spark plugs? There's an awful lot of stuff between me and those plug wires. I'm not used to an engine compartment as cramped as this. Thanks!

plum92_camaro

Disconnect the house from the hard line and see what happens. Odds are it's the hoses. Replace in pairs.

Spark plugs, I do the front 5 or 6 from the top and the back 2 or 3 from underneath. Fairly simple that way. I can't recall if #6 is easier from top or bottom.

KDMatt

That did the trick plum, thanks! Brakes are bleeding perfectly now.

Next challenge though -- the replacement sparkplugs I got are longer than the ones that came out, ergo I can't get the new ones in.

Is there a trick I'm missing here, or did AZ just sell me the wrong sparkplugs? (I'm leaning toward the latter)

plum92_camaro

What part # plugs do you have? You can double check online at autozone, oriellys, and advance autos website.

KDMatt

Hmm... I went back to AZ and compared with the plugs I pulled out versus the ones they had listed... Turns out mine are "shorty" plugs? It says their application is for engines with headers. In any case, I was able to do a straight exchange of the plugs I bought with shorty Bosch platinums.

Getting them in there was probably one of the worst knuckle busters I've done since I got rid of my old Beemer, but I got 'em done. Funny thing, judging by the amount of crud on the OUTSIDE of the plugs (to say nothing about how dirty they were on the inside), I'd have to venture that the plugs have never been changed, or if they were, they were changed a long, long time ago.

Now I just need to get a bigger oil-filter-grabber so I can finish my oil change and close the book on this tune-up.

KDMatt

Alright guys, tune-up is done. She's definitely running a lot smoother and offers up a lot more torque than she did before. The motor is also a fair bit quieter thanks to belts that don't squeal and a fan clutch that isn't seizing.

There's still a bit of a stumble in the low RPM's though, most noticeable around 1300 RPM or so. I still hear a small hiss like there might be a vacuum leak somewhere, but I can't, for the life of me, find it if it's there.

Also there's a small two prong connector that comes up near the driver side of the block that isn't connected to anything -- I can't figure out where it's supposed to go. I'll try to take a picture of it if I can.

I shot some white lithium grease into the speedo cables connected to the cruise control module, but I've still got some speedo wiggle. Should I try something a bit lighter. Auto trans fluid maybe?

Also, it looks like the motor might be leaking a bit of oil out of the valve covers (if nothing else, I can smell oil dripping onto the exhaust and evaporating off.) I'm not exactly eager to replace those if that's the case, since those valve covers are buried down in there pretty good. All the same though, maybe it would be an opportunity to do something silly, like... chrome valve covers? :P

So a couple of random odds 'n' ends type questions:

1 - Where are the timing marks? I'd like to check the ignition timing to see if maybe that's contributing to the low-end stumble, also, where's the adjustment?

2 - What's the best way to yank out the antenna? I already disconnected it so that it doesn't drain the battery with that fuse re-installed, but now I want it gone completely. Is it just a matter of pulling out the plastic stuff in the wheel well and voila, there it is?

Thanks again guys!

red rock

iTrader: (2)

There should be a groove on the harmonic balancer and a metal tab that looks jagged that is graduated with degree marks. All of this you should see from looking down on the front of the motor. You may have to shine them up with emery cloth or equiv. The power antenna can be repaired in most cases, so unless you want to just scrap it. You can remove it through the wheel well to do either. on looking for vacuum leaks, you can spray carb cleaner around gasket areas and listen for a change in idle. keep at it.

KDMatt

This is the connector I was talking about:



Also, after a freeway jaunt, bringing it to a stop, the engine made like it wanted to die with the RPM's dropping down below 500 rpm, almost as though the trans didn't want to let go.

Second or third time this happened it threw a check engine light at me, not sure if that's because the idle dropped too low and it lost oil pressure or what, but I might have a GM Code checker left over from my old Saturn SL with OBD1, if I can find it I'll have to see if it flashes any codes at me.

KDMatt

I found my code reader, and I'm getting a Code 33, which looks like a MAP sensor? Gonna consult the FSM for diagrams on where I'll find it and how to diagnose it.

A bad connection at the MAP sensor would definitely coincide the vacuum-leak-like behavior.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

a vacuum leak can also cause a code 33.

KDMatt

I suppose that's also true yeah... but I cannot find, for the life of me, where that leak might be.

I've been spraying carb cleaner on every hose and gasket I can find, to no avail. Any key areas I should look for? Something I'm missing perhaps?

I replaced the MAP sensor anyway, and it does seem to have improved things a bit -- I definitely feel like I've picked up a smidge more low-end torque, and the idle seems to be a little smoother, though there is still a bit of a stumble around 1200/1300 RPM still.

It's also idling a bit high, around 1200 or 1300 rpm (a bit ironic) when in Park, but kicks down to about 800 RPM when in gear.

From what I've seen in the FSM, it looks like the idle might be adjustable on the TBI, maybe I should see if I can kick it down a bit.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Throttle body including the butterfly shaft. Intake manifold, front, back, and sides. Vacuum lines, brake booster, vacuum canister. These are all places to check. Do you have a vacuum gauge to help check with?

KDMatt

I used to have one, not sure if I still do. I'll dig it out of mothballs or get a new one.

What's a healthy vacuum for this engine?

red rock

iTrader: (2)

I would think a steady reading of 17-25 should be normal. A very low reading like say 3-5 would be a intake leak somewhere. If you buy one, they usually come with pictures to illustrate the readings.

KDMatt

Alright, so, I hooked up the vacuum gauge to the line that goes to the brake booster, and from there I'm reading between 15 and 19, depending on the engine speed. It's idling around 1100 RPM, and at that idle, the gauge reads 19... almost 20... When I put it in gear to force the idle down a bit, that reading drops down to about 15. Thoughts? Any way to adjust the idle speed at all?

Also, I've seen this asked a lot, but I can't find a good answer through all of my google-fu -- where is the EST wire on this thing? I'd like to set the base timing because it finally dawned on me just how easy it is to accidentally fiddle with the timing. Also, whereabouts are the timing marks?

Oh, and any ideas on that black and green connector from a previous post of mine? I'd really like to know where that goes.

Thanks for stickin' with me.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

The EST wire is above the blower motor on the firewall. It may be tucked in the harness, but I doubt it. Just unplug it and set timing to 6degrees BTDC.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Like Bob said, the EST connector is a tan and black wire in the wiring harness on the pass. side above the blower. I explained the timing mark tab in post #28, and i'll check for your wire plug. The vacuum seems fine if it's a steady reading and not wobbling the needle. Your green/black plug went to the AC compressor. Here is a image of the timing marks. https://images.search.yahoo.com/imag...b&fr=yfp-t-270 Here is a link to adjust the timing. https://www.thirdgen.org/settingtiming

KDMatt

Thanks for the pic, red, that's actually a really really big help and just what I was looking for.

For some reason I was looking for the EST wire near the dizzy, and now I know why I couldn't find it. I'll report back tonight.

Also, makes sense that connector would be for the AC Compressor, since the compressor's belt was removed/disconnected.

Also, setting the timing to 6 degrees BTDC should be at about 800 rpm right? I'm thinking I might have to fiddle with the idle speed before I can accurately set the base timing.

You guys are a big help, and I really appreciate it.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Set the idle at around 450-500 rpm. https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2 Cleaning the IAC (idle air control) and resting it may cure your idle problems. Also, the TPS (throttle position sensor) set correctly will help with throttle response and idle. Having a digital ohm meter will help with setting the TPS.

KDMatt

I've got brand new IAC valves. I was taking them out to clean them and the thread on one of them snapped off in the process. I didn't want to replace just one, so I did them as a pair. It's been idling high since then.

I actually saw this link last night, and that "protective metal covering" that goes over that minimum air adjust screw... how do I "punch" that out? Just like a flat-head screw driver and pry it off or what? I feels smooth and metallic -- if it weren't for the FSM I'd be hard-pressed to know there's a screw back there.

Also, just want to make sure I understand this tutorial correctly. A and B ports on the ALDL are the top right, correct? After the 30 seconds I will disconnect the IACV's and start the car with those ports still jumped, yes?

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

YES

Use a small punch or awl to get it out. Also, it's a Torx screw in there, pretty small

And when it start, it will be really low idle, if it idles at all. You want to turn that down to around 400 rpm. If you have a portable tach, that would help. If not you have to to guess or look at your tach in the car, which is not very accurate. Once set, turn car off, plug IAC in, and remove jumper. Then go into TPS setting procedure. They work together.

KDMatt

My timing gun has a digital tach on it. I'll use that.

.. and okay, just something small and sharp I can use to knock that metal plug out, got it.

Alright guys, I'll give this a shot when I get home and report back. Thanks a ton!

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Anytime

red rock

iTrader: (2)

QUOTE "I've got brand new IAC valves. I was taking them out to clean them and the thread on one of them snapped off in the process. I didn't want to replace just one, so I did them as a pair. It's been idling high since then." Just to be clear, sounds like your saying there are (2) IAC's. There is only (1). https://images.search.yahoo.com/imag...fr=yfp-t-270-s So, I'm wondering what you replaced in pairs?

KDMatt

I thought there was one on each throttle body?

http://users.swko.net/~lionsden/forum/Dcp02846.jpg

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

OOOOOOOOHHHHHHHH, I see!!!!!!!!!!! Cross Fire!!!!!!!!!!! you are right MATT!

I thought I, along with Red Rock, was losing it! Carry on my friend!

KDMatt

Christ you guys nearly gave me a heart-attack! haha!

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Sorry bout that, just wanted to be sure. Never even thought about CF.

KDMatt

Okay I'm super confused by these metal plugs on the backs of the minimum idle air adjusters. How am I supposed to get them out? Been wailing on them with a hammer and a small screwdriver and they aren't budging. Am I supposed to drill them out?? What's the deal here??

EDIT: I found a tutorial online and got the plugs out with some careful drilling. Nevermind!