awesome, good deal, i thought thats who you were refering to had to be one of them lol

Can anyone burn chips? I need one for a 350 TPI. Don't have the money rihgt now but I'm interested if you can do it.

Thanks.

i only burn the chips that you can plug in via the moates adapter.

the adapter is like 55 bucks and comes with 2 chips. I could burn you a stock program that way but i cant program chips that will plug into the factory board

Suppose I bought this adapter, what all could you do for me? I know all the parts on the except the Cam lift/duration thingy.

Does any one know of any good junk yards in the area, im looking for a rear end for my car. I wanted to get a posi with 3.23's but i will settle for limited slip 3.23's. I know that limited slip 3.23's came in v-6 auto cars and im sure that wouldnt be hard to find. And if any one has one for sale let me know, and 3.08's would work too.

Feezles auto wrecking had a good selection of third/fourth gen cars. Not sure how the price would be but the number is 724-336-5512. They're in Darlington, pa. About 45-60 minutes from Pittsburgh.

I could tune your car more than likely I havent played with the 730 ecm all that much but i could easily figure it out, i'm going to a speed density type setup myself over winter for alittle different application SO i gotta learn up on it. Tuning those isnt all that bad from what i've seen so far and there are tons of resources on how to tune that setup on this site, more so than the MAF system and i've done well with my MAF. I assume by your sig 92 z28 your swapping to a 350 motor that has some mild work done and need a tune for it?

What ever would you need a sd system for????

oooh oooh i know


as for the junkyard, try Dons. They usually have an add in the paper listing like "3000+ cars/trucks!"

they have.. lets see here...14 thirdgens and 4 4ths. I think all but 1 of those cars has it's rear-end

lol what are you guys talkin about??

Well after looking at the car, I might just keep the T/A road worthy instead of tearing it down. The Tranny needs fixed, but besides that...it pays for itself in mods.

Anyways I need my '92 tuned also, I know everything about that car though.

I know nothing. Just amusing myself. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, i'll try calling them.

I was thinking thinking the same

i called them and all they had was a disk brake posi rear, with 3.23's and it was $400 with 120,000 miles on it.

Thats about what i figured. I dont get to too many other yards anymore, and i've only been there once or twice in the past two years anyway. I've been fortunate to find the things i need on ebay or friends.

wow thats money! i got a 30K mile LS1 rear complete with 3.42's for 300

Hawk's sells LS1 rears for like $500.

They seem to be that way on some parts. I was looking for a rear for my old dakota 6 years ago and they wanted 500 for it. Nobody else had one so i had to give up the cash. Sometimes it depends who you talk to. Anymore they tend to be a**holes.

I told you to call that dons place. They got at least 14 rear-ends

Which place is this? Do you have a number i could call?

I'll try to find one. I've only ever seen them in the penny saver.

I believe this is it.
Don's Auto Salvage
Address: 6051 Tuscarawas Rd, Beaver, PA 15009 Phone:(724) 495-3395

yea. That is him. Call em up. The only thing with those guys is, the woman at the counter is alittle wishy washy. One day she wants $50 for the part, the next day its $15... So try and catch her on a good day

Yea i called them yesterday and they said they would look for a rear, called them today and they said they would look tomorrow, and your right about that lady.

With them, it'll probably be easier just to go down yourself and pick something out

Finally got the camaro in the garage on sunday, after two hours of cleaning it out, but there isnt any room to work on it, im trying to find another place to store/work on it for the winter, any ideas?

I almost had the same problem, but my neighbors are letting me store the mustang in their extra garage so I can spread out really well and work on my camaro.


On a fresh note, Anyone know where I can find a good 1 piece RMS 4-bolt 350 block? With money how it is, I cannot afford to do my build the way I want it, and I think a different 4-bolt block will be cheaper than making my L98 block a 4-bolt.

ask jj's to see if they have a block laying around or a complete motor you can strip down

also check racing junk for local sells

Found out today that a buddy of mine has a 97' Vortec 350 laying around that he's not using. He said he'd sell it to me he's jst now sre how much to ask so that might be where i'll get my 4-bolt roller block.


Also found this interesteding post on another board.

"I copied this info from a post at HOT ROD, earlier this year. It said that the figures were aquired from SUPER CHEVY, POP HOTRODDING, and some local shops. None completely agreed, so lower values were used and rounded down.

2-bolt w/ OE main bolts = 400hp
2-bolt w/ ARP studs = 550 hp ++high nickel blocks =700hp
4-bolt w/ OE bolts = 475hp
4-bolt w/ ARP studs = 700hp
OEM blocks w/ splayed 4-bolt studs = 950+hp
Bowtie blocks w/ splayed 4-bolt studs = 1500+hp!

RPM plays a larger factor.

OE 2-bolt = 6000 rpm
2- bolt w/ studs = 7000
OE 4-bolt = 7200
4-bolt w/ studs = 8500
Bowtie or OE splayed studs = 8500++

In the article, it stated that a 250hp engine that was spinning at 7500rpm exerted more loading force on the main-caps than a 550hp engine spinning at 5500rpm. this means power and RPM must be considered.

The HP figures are good reference, but the RPM limit of the motor is a better way to choose a block."


which tells me justin, that your block should probably be ok as long as you get those ARP studs in there, just because I'm sure you arn't going to be running 8500 RPM.

If I wasnt already commited to dropping the 400 into my car Id definetely snag this up:

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/935686815.html


Nice roller cheap for somebody

i'd rather pick up my buddies roller... 00 SS camaro with build trans/9inch/suspension, 50K miles on body for 7 grand but he may take 6. you cant beat that. It comes with a stock LS1 or you can have the 382 he has but needs block work to the starter bolts

Definetely a good deal there, but itll be a long while til I have 6k sitting in the bank.

What do ya guys think of the new siggy i just finished?

lol i like it! definately under construction

lol thanks.

I had a quick q for you, do you know how much the machine work costs for splayed mains? I found the cap kit for $195 (i think summit is 250), so it may be more reasonable now.. But i heard the machine work can be a bitch.

I like it. Nice work.

no idea, you'd have to call a shop

still havn't found a shop unfortunately.


and i thought you had the answer to every thirdgen related thing ever!

Do you guys know of any good paint shops around?

Also how much do you guys think a simple paintjob on my '88 T/A would be?

Gloss black, satin black, or flat/matte black. Haven't decided yet.

I was looking at around $1000 to do my car gloss black, and my car was originally black (color changes are more expensive). That price was with all the prep work done myself though.

Does any one know of a good frame shop in the pittsburgh area? I was in an accident with my GMC Jimmy and the body shop f***ed me over, its a long story, but i need to get the frame straightened.

What part of the frame is bent exactly? When my buddy pushed in his frame on his DD Cavalier after inspecting it we just had to replace the cradle and some suspension parts.

Im just saying maybe its something you can replace instead of having to bend it back in place.


On another note, my car is now a roller! Took the whole drivetrain out last night, took no longer than 3 hours. Ill be selling off the Tranny on Craigslist, and scrapping pretty much the whole motor. Next on the list is undercoat the chassis, and prep the engine bay for paint after removing unwanted wiring.

yea man! get that nasty 6 outta there


I myself should be recieving some rather important pieces of steel tubing in the next hour or two

My dad took a look at it an he said it needs to be put on a frame jig and pulled straight. The body shop was paid by my insurance company to take the car to the frame shop, but they never took it there and said that they did, well now that the frame is still bent it is causing problems with the front drive shaft and taking chunks out of my transfer case. The body shop is still giving me problems and saying that they wont pay for it. So if they dont agree to fix it right im taking it to a different shop and making sure it gets fixed right. The sad thing is, the accident happen over a month and a half ago.

You selling the 700R4 or is that someone else?

Ouch, hope everything works out man.


Me? Im selling the T5 out of the car.

I'm kinda looking for a T56 so i may have my 700r4 and converter for sale. Not sure yet tho.

I'm telling you man, go with the TKO600. Its stronger than a stcok T56 thats for sure.. Its probably gonna be a better base if you need something even stronger...


on a more personal note.. man machining is expensive.. either that or the one shop ive got ahold of so far wants an a$$ load for work.