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i know some of you guys may have done the swap, have you or do you know if it makes any differance in times? i know the 700 has a steeper 1st gear but is it enough to make much differance??especially behind a l69 305 thanks for replys tranny is shot so thinking bout going to a 350 bout half the cost you know lol its a daily driver the only sees highway use at tgf trip maybe 1000 miles a year gets put on it too
A TH350 is cheaper then a 700R4, but don't forget about all the swap parts:
-crossmember
-driveshaft
-shifter
-converter
Either trans would be good at the strip with a bigger converter, but the 700R4 will be more streetable. If you go to the strip a lot and don't drive the street much, a TH350 is probably a good investment.
long tailshaft th350 = same driveshaft. The B&M conversion kit takes care of the crossmember nad the torque arm. Factory shifter can be used and a converter is much cheaper than 700R4. No reason not to do it if 1000 miles a year is all that it's driven.
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If you ever plan on making any kind of power, the TH350 gets my vote hands down!
I've tried 700R4's built by 3 different "pro's". The longest any lasted for me was 5 passes on any one of the three particular builds. After spending thousands trying to make it work in the car, I came back to the old reliable
TH350.
As was stated, the stalls and other hard parts are significantly cheaper.
Cost to try and make the 700R4 hold up (which it never did hold up for me)(including stall)...at least $2700!
Cost to build the TH350 (holds up nicely)(including $500 stall)...$1050
The choice is clear!!! Learn from my mistake!
As for how much quicker the car was, I cannot say exactly because I also changed a few other things about the combo, but it was definitely noticeably quicker...especially between first and second...there was notably less of an RPM drop. And if you've ever had the dreaded second to third shift hesitation or skip with the 700R4, you'll definitely love the 2-3 shift of the
TH350!
cool, thanks guys,its not a racer by far but i didnt want to make a slug slower either lol,just waitin to get closer to spring time b4 i have it done,so the warranty wont expire before i even drive it
I've tried 700R4's built by 3 different "pro's". The longest any lasted for me was 5 passes on any one of the three particular builds. After spending thousands trying to make it work in the car, I came back to the old reliable
TH350.
I have had my 700r4 rebuild kit from probuilt and it has never let me down. I purchased the pro street elite with new reverse drum for around $900 and it supports to 750hp. I then had to get a new Vigallante convertor and I am well above the recommended hp rating and my trans still doesn't have any problems.
Doesn't sound like whoever built yours did it right. Did you have your input cryoed? I have a few other friends that have rebuild kits from probuilt and have never had a problem either. It is a matter of preference and I will stick with the 700r4.
__________________ (ENGINE) 355 SBC - TPIS MiniRam - AFR 210 75cc Full CNC - BBK 58mm TB - JE Forged Pistons - Scat H-Rods - Eagle 4340 Crank - Crower 00482LM Cam - Vortech S/C @ 18LB - 10k RPM Nitrous Kit (TRANSMISSION) Vigilante 2600 Stall Convertor - 700R4 Rebuild Kit Pro Street Elite by Pro Built PN# PSERK70088 (SUSPENSION) Full Hotchkis Subframes - Bay Braces - Torque Rods & Trailing Arms and More!! (INTERIOR) Cyberdyne Digital Dash - Pioneer MP3 / DVD Player - (2) 1500+ Watts Rockford AMPS More Forged than plastic - Way 2 Much 2 List.. Some Say I am
Mine was supposedly supposed to handle 650 HP...bought it from someone on TGO.
Believe me, I wanted to make the 700R4 work, but after 3 different builders and all that cash...I wasn't about to throw $ at it anymore.
The overdrive was really nice with the 4:56 gear while it lasted, but unfortunately it wouldn't hold up.
Maybe I had a really bad trans that was too old to update (82), but I'm not about to spend another penny on a 700R4. That's just my pesonal opinion.
I've heard great things about ProBuilt. I wanted him do the second build, but there was always the thought of shipping it back and forth to California if there should ever be any problems with it.
You are very fortunate to have yours hold up and I wish you luck.
That was one thing that Dana from Probuilt had informed me about. When I bought the Elite rebuild kit he informed me to look at the numbers on the right rear of the transmission above the pan about 3 inches before the tailshaft housing. If it starts with a 6 it is a 1986, 0 is a 1990, 2 is a 1992 etc etc.. After I bought the kit, I looked at the transmission that was a 1986 version and I was told to get rid of that one and get a 1988 or newer.. I did and haven't regretted it so far. Wish you the best of luck with whichever way you go.
__________________ (ENGINE) 355 SBC - TPIS MiniRam - AFR 210 75cc Full CNC - BBK 58mm TB - JE Forged Pistons - Scat H-Rods - Eagle 4340 Crank - Crower 00482LM Cam - Vortech S/C @ 18LB - 10k RPM Nitrous Kit (TRANSMISSION) Vigilante 2600 Stall Convertor - 700R4 Rebuild Kit Pro Street Elite by Pro Built PN# PSERK70088 (SUSPENSION) Full Hotchkis Subframes - Bay Braces - Torque Rods & Trailing Arms and More!! (INTERIOR) Cyberdyne Digital Dash - Pioneer MP3 / DVD Player - (2) 1500+ Watts Rockford AMPS More Forged than plastic - Way 2 Much 2 List.. Some Say I am
Try your stock x-member first. When I was using the B&M bracket on a short tail trans, I think I found a x-member from an early Camaro (82 or 83) that originally was equipped with the 2004R. Had to elongate the slot where the rubber tranny mount bolt goes through, that's about it.
I also remember fighting the bracket a bit while trying to screw in the speedo cable LOL! Was a bit frustrating at the time. Me and my short fat fingers. Just make sure you have ample room to screw it in before you put the trans in. Don't be afraid to do a little clearancing here and there if necessary.
Also, notice that there are two places for the x-member to bolt. If you are any good at fabrication, it would be a piece of cake to make one or modify your existing one to work with a welder and a drill.
If your feeling rich and you don't want to deal with the headache, you can always call Spohn. I had one here, but it's gone already.
Thirdgenranch (Denny) might be able to help you out as well.
waste of time swapping transmissions in a stock set up.i have to ask why?????? if its speed youre looking for theres no rhyme or reason to say yes this trans will be faster.it all depends on applications. if it was faster i doubt it would be noticeable or worthwhile behind a stock set up.
waste of time swapping transmissions in a stock set up.i have to ask why?????? if its speed youre looking for theres no rhyme or reason to say yes this trans will be faster.it all depends on applications. if it was faster i doubt it would be noticeable or worthwhile behind a stock set up.
it's already documented to be faster. uses less HP to turn, weighs less, has less of a rpm drop between first and second, etc etc. stock engines blow up the 3-4 clutch pack in these trans. If it's drag only, or street/strip the TH350 is fine as long as you're not looking to drive on the highway much.
you mean to tell me youd rather spend the money to swap out a 350 vs getting a good rebuild on the 700r4? were talking a 160 hp car here...this aint no burner.theres no reason to swap out a trans just to do it. he already has all the 700 items in the car and would only need a rebuild vs a new trans which needs a rebuild ,crossmember and possible driveshaft. yes a 350 lighter,easier to turn etc but when youre dealing with 160 hp,yes i know it was ratedfor more but honestly i dont think its making more than that now,would you see and noticeable improvements? no...besides if its truely stock with a bunch of miles on it it will run what,16.2 in the quarter vs 16.1 with a 350? lets be reasonable.
my old 305 car went 13.0 so I don't know what your argument is. Let's be reasonable, if it's a completely stock car it's not worth spending the $1200 to get it rebuilt if the car is only worth $1200.
i allready paid for another 700r4 ,anyway.but my main reason for the swap was because of the cost of the 700 vs the th350 but thanks for your reply,and its got 98,000 miles on body and bout 10,000 on rebuilt motor,and its never ran that slow