I am finally going to get my IROC aligned properly. This IROC is street-driven, autocrossed weekly, and see an occasional track day. Since I won my first event (in F-Stock) a few weeks back, I've been getting the same feedback from the local "top drivers" - get the car aligned correctly. A couple of these guys ran 3rd gens years ago and I plan to ask them what they ran. Even so, I am interested in your opinion as well. It has been stated that "generically", the following settings are good for autox (regardless of car!?): Front: Camber: -1.0 to -2.0 Caster: maximum adjustment possible Toe: 0 to 1/16" toe out per side Rear: Camber: -1.0 to -1.5 Toe: 1/16" to 1/4" toe in per side In addition, on this website, the following numbers are suggested: Stock Front settings with 15" wheels: Camber: -1.0 to -2.0 Caster: +3 +/- 0.5 Toe: 0 to 1/16" toe out per side Street Front settings: Camber: -0.5 Caster: +4 (L) and +4.5 (R) Toe: 3/64 toe out per side Hard Street Use Front Settings: Camber: -1.0 Caster: +5 (L) and +5.5 (R) Toe: 3/64 toe out per side Road Racing: Camber: -1.75 Caster: +6 (L) and +6 (R) Toe: 1/16 (out) - 1/32 (in) per side (course dependent) Now, some questions: 1) What is the maximum negative camber that I can expect from stock components? 2) Assuming maximum camber, what would be the maximum positive caster that I can expect from stock components? 3) How much will the stock components let me change the rear? 4) With the information that I have (to be also verified by the local hot shoes), I was thinking of these settings: Front: Camber: -2.0 (if I can get it) Caster: +6 (if I can get it) Toe: 1/16" toe out per side Rear: Camber: -1.5 (if I can get it) Toe: 1/32 toe in per side (if I can get it) Any input and opinions are welcome.

Camber settings can vary based on rim/tire application. A taller or softer sidewall tire will roll over easier than a stiff tire so more negative camber is needed with the soft sidewall tire thus keeping the tread footprint most flat for traction. If you chalk the edges of your tires before a run, you will be able to tell if the tire is riding on the inner and outer edges.
We do not have rear adjustable settings in a Camaro with a solid rear axle, Nor do we have Rear caster.

Caster settings are different based on speed. Slow tight turns such as Auto-X require less caster rendering the car easier to turn and more responsive. Low caster at high speeds, however, will make a car unstable. Caster would need to be changed for the type of racing or driving for best performance.
I would recommend just leaving the Caster at stock settings for all around use. This is just an opinion, hope it helps.

Toe settings will be slightly lower than stock if you run tighter bushings (sperical, rodends, Delrin, etc...). There is less slop to zero with these.

Thanks for the info. I also took a look at my Haynes and Chilton's manual last evening. According to the Chilton's manual (the Haynes didn't specify), a 1988 F-body has the following possible range of front adjustment:

Caster: 4 1/2 P to 5 1/2 P ("Preferred" is 5P)
Camber: 1/2 N to 1/2 P ("Preferred" is zero)

This doesn't give me much to work with.

Interestingly enough, in the next event or so, I will be switching from P245/50 ZR16 tires to P245/45 ZR16. I suppose this will have an effect....

you are rigt about one thing. As much caster as possible. Try to get like 10 degrees. That would rock!

Must be the drugs these days.

AFrikinGoodTime -

Thanks for the feedback and information. I am starting to conclude that a $60 alignment is a waste of money given the limited amount of adjustment available to me.

Once clarification on your post -

You said that the toe settings would be slightly lower with "improved" bushing material. I am curious as to why the opposite wouldn't be true... Wouldn't bushing deflection be greater with the stock material, which would then require a more dramatic adjustment to have effect? I am interested in your reply here.

I can show you with my hands, but let me see if I can explain this.
Toe setting is ususally set aprox 1/16 to 1/4 inward on most cars. So basically, the tires are slightly turned towards eachother. As the car rolls foward, the force or resistance of the road-to-tire contact will put tension on the bushings causing them to flex- Thus creating the tires to track paralell and are no longer slightly turned towards eachother.
The stiffer the a-arm bushings, etc... the less toe needed beacause they won't flex back as much.
Here a hyphatetical example for you:
Let's say that if stock toe is 1/8 inward ( with rubber bushings)
If now using polyurethane the setting would probably be 1/16
If using rodends/sperical metal bushings- then maybe 1/32"

Also, tire size and flex will have an effect here to. Higher profile tires will ofcourse flex back more than a lower profile tire so more toe is needed for the higher.
Wider tires cause more flex on the bushings than would skinny tires.
Hope this gives you food for thought, but just remember, these adjustments are ever so slight. If you take the car to a performance minded shop/mechanic, you will get a better performance alignment in comparison to just taking the car to Sears. No matter what changes such as bushings and rim diameter & width are made to a car, Sears alignment mechanics will most likely just set the alignment to factory specs and will not compensate for the above changes.

Thanks. I understand what you mean. now.

Maybe I shouldn't bother with the alignment until after I put poly bushings in the car. Based on the information you provided, I would have to compensate for the bushings anyway.

Food for thought.

Now for my BIG problem - I was offered a very good deal on a 98 Z28 (LS1/M6) yesterday and I may sell the IROC and my Monte SS to buy it...

Its hard to passup newer technology.

Yeah, I know.

My heart says third gen L98. My head says LS1. I just love third gens, but a 6-speed, LS1...

The wife said "do it, do it now!"

What to do...

I said this one too many times. loosen the strut towers and slam them all the way IN and BACK, and your done. Then when you feel like it, have the toe set slightly out for auto-x.

although slamming the strut towers in may give out slightly toe out, so you prolly good to go from there.

that's how my car been for many years and I love it.

Larry -

That is exactly what I have been doing. I figured I was good with this. However, there is this very quiet man that usually wins driver of the year in a non-VTEC, stock Prelude at one of the clubs that I run. My dad says that years ago, he was consistently ftd in a stock third gen (stock!). Almost every event this year, he's come by my car in the paddock and said "did you get a proper alignment yet?". And I would say, "yeah, I slam the strut towers in and back - see?". He'd reply "get a proper alignment". Then walk away.

It was just one of those things that you can't get out of your head (especially when you see this guy drive). So on Sunday, I hauled him over to my car, recited the amount of adjustment available specific to the 88 third gen. He then said that he didn't realize that the adjustments in third gens varied that much year-to-year (he had an 82 or 84 - I forget which). I again showed how I set the car and he said that was fine. I asked about toe and he said if it's zero, I'm probably OK but I might want to try 1/32 per side to see if I like it.