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this car just keeps on impressing me. last fall i ran a 13.9 @ 97.08 with:
Ported Plenum
Centerforce Dual Friction
Poly Tranny Mount
Poly Torque Arm Mount
Modified Air Box
K&N Filters
Dynomax Headers
Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust
Hollowed Cat
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
IAT Sensor Relocated
Emissions Delete
AC Delete
No Spare Tire, Jack, Rear Seats
Now My Best Times are 14.2 @ 99.76 with a 2.3 60ft and a 14.3 @ 100.2 with a 2.4 60ft
With:
LT1 Cam
Ported Plenum
Centerforce Dual Friction
Poly Tranny Mount
Poly Torque Arm Mount
3.27 9 Bolt Rear
Modified Air Box
K&N Filters
Dynomax Headers
Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust
Cat Delete
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
IAT Sensor Relocated
Emissions Delete
HVAC Delete
12* Base Timing
No Rear Seats, Spare Tire, And Jack
Toyo Proxes FZ4s
Descreend MAF
i was running 97-98mph with the stock MAF unit. then my friend let me use his gutted MAF sensor and i went the 14.2 @ 99.76 and the 14.3 @ 100.2. so the LT1 cam made the car run a lot leaner, with the gutted MAF it ran a lot richer. this explains why i didnt get a whole lotta difference between the stock cam and the LT1, but now i do!
and yes it is a 305 the block says 5.0L G on in the cast on the back side.
__________________ 1989 Ultra Blue Metallic Hardtop IROC - All Motor Stick Car Build
great times, your 60 foot needs some help now, maybe an adjustable torque arm might be something to think about or lower control arm relocation brackets.
Last edited by MdFormula350; 05-17-2003 at 01:03 PM.
305's can do the job. My 84 HO Z28 ran a best of 13.89 back in '87. Once you get those short times down to at least 2.0, you should be running 13.5 or better.
And of all the gutted MAFs that I've used and heard of, it leans it out. More air flow coming in with the old calibration makes for a leaner mixture.
Originally posted by TTA 1387 305's can do the job. My 84 HO Z28 ran a best of 13.89 back in '87. Once you get those short times down to at least 2.0, you should be running 13.5 or better.
And of all the gutted MAFs that I've used and heard of, it leans it out. More air flow coming in with the old calibration makes for a leaner mixture.
Do something about those 60ft times man. 2.45 and 2.33... Pull those down to around a 2.0x and you'll be all over the 13's consistently. Nice times.
__________________ Sold: '88 L98 IROC T-top
Sold: '89 L98 IROC Hardtop (G92)
Parting out: '92 RS If you need any parts send me a PM. 383ci with lots of goodies, full suspension, trans, rearend, racing seats, gauges, etc.
Originally posted by MdFormula350 great times, your 60 foot needs some help now, maybe an adjustable torque arm might be something to think about or lower control arm relocation brackets.
I agree. Those are still some good times for a 305.
Why go with the LT1 cam? That isn't much of a step up from the 5 speed 305 TPI cam - and all that work...
BTW - In that first run, what did you race, an 03 Cobra? 17.4@74 doesn't belong at a track. If you've got a car that slow, quit taking up space
haha the 17.4 was my freinds lifted up ford F 150. i choose the lt1 for reliability issues, i dont have time to burn computer chips or deal with a tempermental engine. i put 2k miles on this car in three weeks so i gets driven a lot. definitly needs traction work haha 1st and 2nd gear rubber at the track is not good. i have no idea why it runs better with a descreend maf my BLMs at idle are 134 with the stock one and it seems to run a **** load better with mine descreend now. i hate hacking things and i used to tell people how bad it was to descreen but it seems to be doin better with em out? is it possible im excedding the 255 grams per second flow rate the computer is capabil of reading?
__________________ 1989 Ultra Blue Metallic Hardtop IROC - All Motor Stick Car Build
yeah i cant hook up for **** now. 4 tenths slower off the line is 8 tenths slower at teh end of the track, a 2.0 60ft would get me a 13.5 or 13.6. it needs suspension mods badly
__________________ 1989 Ultra Blue Metallic Hardtop IROC - All Motor Stick Car Build