What converters do you guys run in your street driven 'race' cars? I am going to get a better, higher stalling, converter this winter but haven't picked one out yet. I've done some reading and have looked at a few but am curious to get feedback from others on what they are using. I drive my car about 10 miles to the track on the equivalent to an interstate and cruise around town with it. I am not sure if it will happen this winter (obviously waiting for the 9"), but there is a transbrake in the future. I am thinking in thhe 4000stall range. I had two different converters in the car this year. The first was a modified 12" from a glide that went 2800 and slipped 8% on the dyno, the second was a 10" that I borrowed from a friend that flashed 3500 and slipped 16% on the dyno. I'd like to get something much more efficient. Thanks!

post your dyno graph.

I am running a b&m hole shot 2800-3200 and i think thats my nexted investment a good race converter. i think i am slipping a lot and not stalling high enough. so i wouldnt go with that. i hvae heard good things about coan and turbo action converters. check the site out http://www.coanracing.com/ might help some not sure about he turbo action site but i am sure google has it listed.

I have a convertor made by a company outta texas called Torco. They now sell under Art Carr's name. I'm not sure if they custom build them to each car or they quite possibly have a whole crap load of different ones laying on the shelf but if you call them and talk to a guy named Mickey he'll take down all your motor/car specs and within a week you'll have a 9.5" convertor at your door for $350 that stalls precisely where you want it

My convertor is unbelivably streetable yet will flash to nearly 4000RPM. Driving around in the city it feels almost like a regular car... idles forward in gear, takes off from lights normally. My 60fts I think are pretty good for my car - The convertor does its job efficiently and remains streetworthy.

theres a local shop called Bradco Convertors....he makes TONS of custom convertors that are usedi n everything from 15 second stockers to 8 second drag cars...tell him what you got and what you wanna do and he'll build one for you......search for Bradco online and im sure you'll come across something.

I've run 2 TCI convertors, one which is in my sig, and have been VERY happy with consistency on the track and excellent streetability.

Just be prepared to spend good money for a good convertor, which I'm sure your aware of.

My 8" JW race converter which stalls at 5700 on the transbrake was around $1200 Canadian and I've already had it rebuilt. If this one ever fails again, I'm getting a new one built to specs from Larry's Transmissions in Calgary for less than $1000. I'm sure a more streetable converter will be a lot less. Converters for transbrakes or NOS need a few more heavy duty parts in them.

IHI - I was looking at a TCI Super Streetfigher before but I don't know if it would be tough enough. I think whatever I get should have anti-ballooning plates (might try nitrous) and be tbrake ready. Which one do you have?

I am not sure what diamater I should be looking at either. Coan has a sale on right now too.

Here is the dyno graph from when I had the 12" converter in. I can't find the graph from when I had the second converter. They had a load cell problem but the shape of the curve should be right. I had some issues on this run it looks like it peaked and shut down earlier than the others.

The convertor I run was originally designed for the other truck i run, but the sprag let go in the convertor while tuning the truck initally and the convertor was junk and took the glide along with it. Sent convertor back to TCI to have them cut open and fix, it sat on the shelf for 6 months when I built this motor and everything worked out to fit the convertor build pretty close so I used it.

This convertor does have the anti-balloon plate, tabs are forged into the case itself insead of being welded on, and whatever other goodies TCI threw in. Just over the $800 mark when purchased new and TCI stood behind their warranty no questions asked when we had the trouble initally. Regardless, with the stall rating in the lower rpm range-meaning under 5000rpm and sine your street driving it, a 10" or 9.5" will work just fine, anything smaller and you will be building excessive heat due to excessive slippage..ie 8" race convertor.

If I were to do it again, BTE would be my first choice since friend is a dealer, ATI a VERY close second, then another TCI for the simple fact I've run 3 convertors in 4 yrs, 2 of which were TCI and those convertors have seen hundreds and now thousands of passes with the 4600 stall, along with thousands of street miles.

Just too many cars doing better with BTE or ATI to ignore it...so when it comes time to purchase new again, one of those will be the ONLY choice!! Different is nice, but I'm too strung on winning to try different at this point..gotta go with what works and has been proven time after time after time...but these 10" TCI's have put the bird in the winners circle many times so I cannot/willnot complain about them, just think as a racer looking for any edge no matter how small, the above mentioned brands may have a slight advantage. The new BTE in the truck produced deadly consistant numbers/mph...too bad i could'nt seal the deal consistantly on the tree

Precision Industries Vigilante converter 3000 stall got to love, that launch

I know that Precision seems to be #1 in the 700r4 world, but I haven't heard of too many TH guys running them. Anyone have one?

Also - what do you guys think as far as stall speed?

given your combo a convertor that will flash into the 3800 range will be about ideal.

A friend of mine just called me saying that he's got 5 guys ordering '******* Performance' converters on a Christmas Special that ends today. Anyone have any experience with them? They don't look very high end but do have:

-Anti-ballooning plates (will handle nitrous and/or transbrake)
-Fully furnace brazed
-All Torrington roller bearings
-Dual bolt pattern
-Rated to 600 HP with sprag
-Spragless upgrade rated to 800 HP - not recommended for street use (add $50)
-90 day warranty

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-TH...temZ8021352146

Almost seems a little too 'cheap' to be a good peice but I thought I'd ask. I emailed them asking what % of slippage/efficiency to expect - I don't want something that isn't efficient.

Decided to pass on the converter. I told myself before that I was going to get a higher end converter and still think that's the way to.

If anyone cares though, I e-mailed Redne(k and they replied: "Depending on the stall it will run approx. 93-97% efficient".

You should have tried one of those. I have ran one all season. I was getting 1.40 60ftrs with a 3500. I also have a couple of the Torcos mentioned on this thread. They seem very close in quality. I ran the Torco for 2 seasons, footbraking and the car would idel up on the trailer. I called Torco at the beginning of this season to order a higher stall, cause I went to a transbrake. They still had my name in the computer from torco. To get the same converter, 1000 more stall. The price went from 315.00 torco, to 750.00 Art Carr [torco]. I'll buy another one of those from ******* when I need a new converter.

Another thing, they rate their convers according to their chart. Their 4500 stalled 5100 behind my 383. I called them and told them I wanted to leave at 3000 and flash 3500. I got exactly what I ordered. I was hitting the tires too hard leaving at 4200 with the 5100 converter. Causing tire spin 6 foot out. Not leaving close enough to the rated stall don't work too well. I'm looking to build a hardtop bird over the winter, tube car with 4 link setup.

I was going to go with a TCI or B&M for my car this winter, however I have been told by many many people to stay away from both! TCI for most people only lasted 10 miles or less in most cases, as some of them had shavings in them from the factory... which ended up killing thier trannys too. The B&M just couldn't take a lot of power.
I decided to go with Coan, as it has been highly recommended, and I have not heard anything bad about them.. they will also uild what you need... and are priced well.

I run a Precision 9.5" converter scince 2002 in a TH400, stalls between 3800-4200 depending on how much boost I'm launching with. Had good luck with it till this year when the sprag failed twice, it's at Precision now getting put back together spragless. It might cost me a little, hopefully very little, ET/MPH but hopefully it will be more reliable and consistant.

HTH,
Steve

i love my TCI and IHI on this board runs them then i bought the trans off him and am running it as well with no issues

The one you got had no issues at all, the current one in my car was originally installed in the glide for the truck but lost a sprag after a few passes on the t-brake. sent it back to get repaired free of charge since it was new, but unfortunately had to have tranny gone through also since it sent metal through it-but we also found we got shafted by the tranny builder that was recommended so it was bad luck that turned into good fortune somewhat to see how we were takend advantage of since we were an hour away from his shop...typical mentaility of screw the out of towner cuz he wont be back.

Anyways, got convertor back from TCI, it sat on the shelf for a year and specs were what I needed for my combo so we installed it and the rest is history. It's been a bullet proof convertor ever since and a very consistant WINNING convertor just like the one xpndbl3 is running now. I would have no problem running a TCI unit again based on the winning history I've had with them thus far . I've seen a number of B&M's over the years in street strip cars give up the ghost, and recently found out a TRUE B&M RACE convertor is farmed out to a separate individual that has been hand making race convertors for B&M for 20 yrs...go figure LOL. But he has no options as to anti ballon plates, heavy duty sprag, etc..it comes with all bullet proof pieces regardless if it's going behind a 300hp street motor or 1000hp race car and price is the same for all as well. Friend just went through this song and dance with B&M and got the scoop stright from the horses mouth, '06 will be the first runs on his new "B&M" race convertor so we'll see how that goes.

Not to burst any bubbles about convertors being custom built for your application, but here is a link from a highly respected tranny builder that does our trannies, as well as many top racers around the country (and out of country) that has many connections inside most of the companies producing the products we buy from...I'm just lucky he's local and a hellava nice guy. here's the link and lurk around his sight while your there. If you want the stright scoop, best prices, and hands down THE BEST customer service anywhere, give him a call. He was literally under a guys race car in his church clothes on race day fixing another tranny builders screw up to keep the racer in contention...and there are many other stories about him as well!! Give him a shot, sned him an email and tell him "Humper" sent ya he's also got many products not listed on his site...got alot of my engine stuff through him and prices well below summit/jegs prices...he's that hooked up.

http://oldanimotorsports.20megsfree.com/custom2.html

Ok, I still haven't picked a converter out and its time to order one. I was originally thinking a 9.5" or 10" 3800-4000 stall when I started this thread. I am not 100% sure if that's still the way to go or not but I am not really sure what specific other things I need (ie. steel stator) and don't need and what make/model I should ultimately select.

I have to admit that I am a bit lost when it comes to converter selection. I understand the underlying principals of engines much more than trannys and converters. Any help, suggestions, comments, input, etc. would be helpful.

I called around to a few difference maunufacturers and got some suggestions. To be honest I was expecting a little more help and insight from these reps.

BTE
He reccomended a 9.5" Super Bracket converter. He didn't tell me a whole lot about it but I found this:
Features:
-Furance brazed fins
-Stronger that excessive spot-welding, this method of strengthening reinforces the entire structure of the turbine and pump fins. Fins are tacked in crucual locations with high precision welding,
-Hand built steel stator available in multiple variants; 10,12,14, or 15 blades
-6 lug mounting ring on converter front ensures maximum holding power (steel stator units only)
-Dual anti-balooning plates
-Precision hub
-Screw-on pilot for quick midplate adjustments
-Torrington bearings throughout
-Stieber multi-element sprag assembly ensures maximum durability and consistency
-Heat-treated inner and outer races in sprag assembly
-One year warranty on sprag and stator assembly
-Fully balance and pressure tested
-Selected to match your combination
-http://www.lonestarracing.com/cgi-bi...TE-390800.html

ATI
Left a voice-mail but didn't get a call back.

TCI #1
The first guy reccomended the 10" Ultimate Street Fighter. He figured it would stall in the 3000-3500 range for me.

Description: The latest line of torque converters designed specifically for extreme street machines. Bridging the gap between our competition series units and our Super StreetFighter™ converters, we introduce the Ultimate StreetFighter™ series.

Features:
-Furnace-brazed & hand welded fins
-Cast steel stator
-Needle bearings
-Dual bolt pattern
-Hardened, pre-ground pump hub
-Computer Balanced

Benefits:
-High torque multiplication
-Higher rpm launches
-Lower elapsed times
-Suited for street/strip cars up to 1200 Hp
-NOTE: Flexplate must be drilled for 7/16'' bolts

TCI #2
I also had filled out an online spec sheet for TCI earlier and got back (from a different guy) a reccomendation for a Street Fighter converter (which is 2 steps down from the other guy's pick). The TCI Street/Strip application chart is shown below.

Features:
-Furnace-brazed fins
-Needle bearings
-Hardened, pre-ground pump hub
-Computer Balanced

Benefits:
-Higher rpm launches
-Quicker reaction times
-Lower elapsed times
-Better low- and mid-range power
-1500+ rpm increase in stall over stock


TCS (Canada)
This rep was the most willing to help and try and explain things. I told him exactly what I want and he called for a "very tight" 8" converter with all the right pieces. It was about $1150 USD. He told me that he'd have to hack a 10" converter up so much by altering the vane angles that it might actually create more heat and that 4 different employees there run them in their street cars.


TCI chart:

I've had good luck with my Coan 10' 3500 stall torque converter. Its been in the car for about 4 years now with lots of street and strip time with no problems.

i have the ******* 400 stall on my engine and have had great sucess with it cant beat it for the price imo

i have a JW 8" nitrous converter in mine for the last 2 years. behind the 377 it stalled at 4600 on the trans brake but for street driving i could only stall it to 1800. and ya it idles away from stop lights. it has 6% slip. i have not got to try it with my new bottom end , but now it stalls at 5400 with a 408 . just got the motor running last week and have 200 miles on it . not bad for still having lots of snow on the ground . at least the roads r mostly dry. i cant wait to see how this thing is going to launch now!

I ordered a cutom 9.5", 4200rpm JW converter last week. Hopefully it comes out of the hole a little better now.