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Old 05-13-2006, 05:21 PM   #1
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Car: 1982 Camaro
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Aftermarket wheel stud question

Hey guys,

What part number should I be looking at for aftermarket wheel studs for a 1982 Camaro with Weld wheels on it? The stock studs right now barely if at all come through the wheel.

Thanks.
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Old 05-13-2006, 06:34 PM   #2
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will you be keeping it 12x1.5? if so, the arp p/n from summit is:
ARP-100-7708

$11.95 for a set of 5.
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Old 05-13-2006, 09:32 PM   #3
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yup i'm running the ones he said, 4 sets one on each rim
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Old 05-13-2006, 10:17 PM   #4
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You might need to get diffrent lug nuts, i have never bought new studs just cause the lugs dident stick out from the rim.
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File Type: jpg 6011416-W32.jpg (15.4 KB, 12 views)
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Old 05-13-2006, 10:49 PM   #5
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I'm sure that he probably wants them for rule book reasons. I know that I am running the ARP's on my car with weld pro stars, and due to the fact of the thickness of the welds my studs still don't come past the end of my lug nuts. FWIW I was running moroso studs, until I twisted 2 of them off, after installing them hand tight. ARP only!!!
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Old 05-14-2006, 01:34 AM   #6
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Good stuff

Lock tite your my only friend.
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Old 05-14-2006, 09:31 AM   #7
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Lock tite your my only friend.
I hope that you are joking!!!
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Old 05-14-2006, 01:22 PM   #8
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Yeah I want them for rulebook reasons, correct me if I am wrong but I believe they need to stick out the width of the stud past the wheel, correct? Will the studs mw66nova recommends stick out that far with a weld wheel?

Thanks guys!
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Old 05-14-2006, 01:49 PM   #9
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they will work fine. arp's is pretty much what everyone runs.
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Old 05-14-2006, 11:08 PM   #10
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ARP screw in studs here on my Moser Axles.
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Old 05-15-2006, 01:10 AM   #11
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Rulebook states that wheel studs must protrude into the hex portion on the nut at least equal to the thickness of the stud.

Technically if you're using a 12mm stud, then it should extend at least 12mm past the rim.

I use 7/16" studs on my front wheels and they're the 2-1/2" long ones.
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Old 05-15-2006, 01:57 AM   #12
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1988 Firebird Formula WS6
305HSR T5 195RWHP/273RWTQ
Mods: Eibach Sportlines, ASCD RA1 Hood, 01 LS1 rear with LS1 brakes, Moser Axles, Torsen Posi, 3.42 gears, TA Diff Cover,
ES Tranny & Tq Arm Mount, 160* Stat, K&N Cone Filter, TB Coolant Bypass, Holley Stealth Ram, MSD Billet Dist. Pro 5.0 Shifter,
Hooker Headers, Borla Catback, Lakewood LCA's, BMR Adj. Panhard, 2" Skulte Adaptors, 17" ZR1's w/ Nitto 555RII's,
Craig Moates Adaptors and Chips

WWW.TransAmWS6.Com http://youtube.com/watch?v=BQ54A0NY2l0
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Old 05-15-2006, 10:43 AM   #13
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The above picture is perfect however you don't "have" to use short open ended wheel nuts. There are some nice long open ended nuts that will cover the entire wheels stud then have a plastic screw in end cap to cover the end of the nut. That way it keeps the dirt out and you can easily remove a plastic cap to allow tech to see that the studs are long enough.
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Old 05-15-2006, 11:26 AM   #14
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mmm, McGaurd...i payed over $75 for my set of 20, but well worth the money. they also have a lifetime warrantee against chrome chipping, even if you used an impact gun.
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370ci LSx, "Close Enough Racing" th400, Transmission Specialties XHD9" 4500 stall converter, Moser 9" 4.30's, Mickey Thompson 28x10.5S's rollin' on BS Street Lites. Pump gas and street driven...doin' it all motor!
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Old 05-15-2006, 06:45 PM   #15
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Old 05-15-2006, 06:45 PM
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