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Well, having gone through 5 electric pumps, what do you want to know. Which one will support XXXhp, which one will last...2 comletely different things and it will depend on how much street driving you do since many of the pumps out there are'nt rated for continuious duty...I know
This year I'm switching over to a belt drive and will give this a shot...figure I could spend another $500 on a pump/fuel system swap and know exactly what the outcome will be again, or try something new....Imm trying something new LOL!!
Holley Red-unless it's a stock driver-dont bother, they cant keep up with demand, with my 525hp once I went WOT I dropped immiedately to 3psi and by hald track I was popping and dropped .3
Holley Blue-stock, same engine, I was still dropping to 4 psi. did'nt lose any et, but it was all it could do to make a 1/4mi pass and I'm sure the bowls were getting empty
Holley blue with high pressure spring-I did a back to back A-B-A test with the stock spring and there is ZERO output difference as far as gpm/h goes....with either spring it still took 43 seconds to fill a 1 gallon jug
Holley blue pump with holley black pump spring (all the pumps are identical, spring is only difference) and no change-dropped to 4psi at WOT, did'nt lose any et
Aeromotive A2000-this is a bad mofo, filled a gallon jug in 11 seconds...yeah...huge pump only problem is it's built for strip only, no continuious duty and i ended up melting 2 of them under the cap where all the electronics are. I set the pump to idle at 8psi, and it never left 8 psi no matter what....great racing pump....bad street/strip pump. Aeromotive advised me to switch to the A1000 for a street strip pump...but I'm done with electrics until I give this belt drive a shot....it puts out enough flow I can run WHATEVER I want off of one pump, huge N/A hp and large quantities of juice too...all off the same pump...with a typical fuel pump set-up you need to pumps since one is dedicated to the N2O solenoids.
I'm running a Mallory Comp 250 electric and so is a friend of mine. The friend has run 10.99 @ 122 mph with a 125 shot and 11.80's @ 115 mph without. Other than the noise, size and leaking when you first install it, seems to be holding up ok. Been in the car for a year now. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to watch when going down the track so no telling what it's actually doing. Just realized, I'm catching up to my friend's times finally muahaha
__________________ Best times to date, motor pass: 11.81 @ 114.55 1.63 60' 10/18/08
nitrous pass: 10.49 @ 126 mph 1.42 60' 10/18/08
350, AFR 195 heads, Eagle H-beam 6" rods, Victor Jr,
750 Race Demon, ProMagnum RR's, Hooker LT, TH400, Spohn T/A and C/M
my friend feeds a 421 with a 1050 on a holley blue pump i believe.. well he has an "extra" blue pump so i assume he uses a blue.. he's been to 10.59 @ 12x..
i run a blue as well.. nothing special for my times.. 12.41 @110
__________________
1984 Trans Am
385sbc(RIP)/t-5/4.30-9"
1.69-7.44-11.65 @ 116
next up-->383 with mild upgrades
I run an Edelbrock mechanical pump on alcohol with a bypass setup. 3psi at an idle, 9psi wide open down the track. Can also be ran with gas. Just put it on this season, im liking it so far.
I'm running an Aeromotive SS fuel pump part# 11203. Its rated for continious duty and 750HP with a dead head regulator and 1000HP with a bypass regulator. I'm using it with a bypass regulator and have never had a problem. The only negative thing about this pump is that its kinda loud.
I run a BG280 pump. It fed both my old 400 bracket motor that ran 11.2's at 116 @ 3100 lbs and my current 305 class motor which just saw a new best of 11.355 at 115 @ 3400+ lbs.
__________________ DRH Racing
Burtonsville Performance Machine/Whitaker Race Engines
Laurel, MD
I'm running an Aeromotive SS fuel pump part# 11203. Its rated for continious duty and 750HP with a dead head regulator and 1000HP with a bypass regulator. I'm using it with a bypass regulator and have never had a problem. The only negative thing about this pump is that its kinda loud.
I run this pump as well.Like Jbenge said its a loud sucker,but i havent had a bit of trouble with it!
I'm running an Aeromotive SS fuel pump part# 11203. Its rated for continious duty and 750HP with a dead head regulator and 1000HP with a bypass regulator. I'm using it with a bypass regulator and have never had a problem. The only negative thing about this pump is that its kinda loud.
So it's rated for street duty as well? The holley blues that I've been running haven't been too kind to my wallet or lasting more than a few years not to mention when I street drive it the pump gets hot, even with the return regulator.
__________________ 2011 chicago world of wheels placed in super street class
Best Engine '11 Thirdgenfest
Best Modified Camaro Thirdgenfest '05, '07, '11 Second place Camaro Modified '06, '08, & '10
MFBA March 2008 Featured Calendar Vehicle
Biggest thing is how do you want to spend your money, you can make a small pump work well with a bypass system, or a bigger pump with a dead head system. How do you want to spend the $$$$!!!! Either way it will work out to about the same money.
I'm asking about running the pump continuously for over an hour repeatedly without failure. Not that the "better" pump flows more, because i'm no where near 1000hp yet. Most of the bigger pumps aren't made for street use often, and burn out like the pumps IHI has tried out. I already have the bypass system in place, just the holley pumps aren't reliable, the carter smaller pumps that are street pumps won't keep up, etc etc.
ALL use a return style system to help maintain consistant fuel pressure and it also helps the pump run cooler/last longer...on the junk Holley pumps you can literally hear the difference in the motor between a return style and a dead head system...it's quiter and motor does'nt have the stupid loud audible groan like they get dead headed.
Its hard to beat the Aeromotive SS pump, its one of the better pumps thats rated for continious duty in my opinion. I do some street driving with my car and don't want to have my pump fail so I went this route. The bypass regulator works very well too. It keeps your fuel pressure more steady, keeps it from creeping up at idle like it does with a dead head....plus I think its easier on the pump. Only downside to the bypass regulator is the extra plumbing involved. Just remember to have your return line go into the top of the tank. I had a fitting welded near the top of my tank for the return line at the same time I had the sump welded in.
Before the SS pump I had a carter electric pump. It was a good pump and much more quiet but it couldn't keep up once I got into the mid 11's. The carters are great for mild street/strip cars, I would highly recommend one for anyone running 12's or slower.
Alright, just got the 9" all bolted up in my car and figured out how to run true duals out the back of the car like how the stock tips are tucked up in there, so I have to relocate my pump and filter canister, so I figured while I'm moving it I might as well get rid of the holley blue and go with something that will last longer on the street. I'll check out the A1000, the Aero SS pump, the magnafuel and project engineering pumps as well, though I haven't heard much about the last two. Have to talk to the owner of a speed shop down the street and see what he thinks and have him order one up for me.
I run the Aeromotive SS pump with Aeromotive return style regulator, it has like 4 ports on it so I use one port for the carb, one for the nitrous, one for the guage and fuel pressure safety switch, and the other is plugged off. Even when I spray the motor it stays at 7.5 psi which I have it set at all the time, my pressure stays constant. This pump has been on the car for about a year and a half with daily driving and some track use, hasnt failed yet, I highly recommend it. Only problem with this pump is it is very loud, but I dont really mind it because when the car is running I cant really hear it from the i inside.
I bought the Magnafuel 500. I know its a huge pump, that I didnt really need but I didnt know where I was going with the car in the future. This way I know whatever I will put in it it will always have enough fuel. I have had no problems with mine at all, and I do some street driving.
Its hard to beat the Aeromotive SS pump, its one of the better pumps thats rated for continious duty in my opinion. I do some street driving with my car and don't want to have my pump fail so I went this route. The bypass regulator works very well too. It keeps your fuel pressure more steady, keeps it from creeping up at idle like it does with a dead head....plus I think its easier on the pump. Only downside to the bypass regulator is the extra plumbing involved. Just remember to have your return line go into the top of the tank. I had a fitting welded near the top of my tank for the return line at the same time I had the sump welded in.
Before the SS pump I had a carter electric pump. It was a good pump and much more quiet but it couldn't keep up once I got into the mid 11's. The carters are great for mild street/strip cars, I would highly recommend one for anyone running 12's or slower.
I just put a T right before my fuel filter in the main feed line before the pump for my return line. Didnt want to have to run a line all the way back to the back of the car. Keeps it in a little circle.
For carbureted powerplants making 200-600 HP, without the use of a separate fuel pressure regulator. Similar to the popular S/S fuel pump P/N 11203, but internally regulated down to 7 PSI, the H/O fuel pump is ideal for carbureted, high output street cars and mild race cars alike.
The bottom line here is I have a sumped stock gas tank, I have already pulled it twice and would like to leave it in, not to mention running a return line, etc.
Last edited by unknown_host; 04-18-2007 at 06:00 PM.
Steve, I have a Biondo LL I just took out of my car this afternoon. I used to run 2 LL's so I could leave off the button before I ever had a transbrake, so I locked front/rear. If interested lemme know $20 plus shipping. I also removed my Comp black aluminum vacuum canister with liquid filled vacuum gauge along with the hoses needed to install it if your cam is borderline affecting your power brakes this makes a world of difference, my 388 had pwr brakes to spare with it $30 plus shipping-or could put them in the same package if you want both to save on shipping.
Lemme know. I should have some other stuff 4 sale in teh near future as well once I get a better handle of where I'm at, what I need/dont need. I do have a Bullet solid roller cam 4 sale too, $379 retail will let it go for $150, but it needs compression since it's a 279/284 @.050...made 657hp 621tq in the 427sbc with Dart Pro 1 230 heads I am going through right now.
Josh,
I got the vacuum canister already, 3 pumps of the brakes and then they got rock hard so I figured it was a good thing to buy I'll let you know on the line lock this weekend.