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Old 10-13-2007, 10:18 AM   #1
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new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

i ran three times 13.1 @ 105 last night still wanting that 12.99. i know i can get it if i can get my 60 fts down i ran 1.94 to 2.054. i im thinking about spary it for it the last race few race. what do yall think it will run with 125 shot?
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my daliy driver is a 89 formula 350 with 9.75 cr ,195 trick flow heads, xe274h cam, holley intake, holley 750dp, t5, posi 3.73. best of 12.985@ 102 cutting out. sunday drive run on bald street tires 14.0 @104.95.
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Old 10-14-2007, 11:35 AM   #2
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

Is it spinning or bogging? Have you played with tire pressures? Different burnouts?
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Old 10-14-2007, 02:16 PM   #3
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

i think it boggs a lil and spinning maybe 3 ft after bogging
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Old 10-14-2007, 02:34 PM   #4
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

The stock stall converter is really holding the car back.
There is 4-5 tenths there with the right converter.
Try locking out the timing in the distributor for full advance full time
34-36deg. Will help the throttle response and initial torque.
Do you have any accelerator pump shooters and plastic cams to work with?
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Old 10-14-2007, 03:12 PM   #5
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

i can buy some. once i get some were can i start
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Old 10-14-2007, 03:19 PM   #6
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

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Originally Posted by intex1982 View Post
i can buy some. once i get some were can i start
Any good speed shop that carries holley service parts will have or can get accelerator pump shooters. I suggest a .031" to .035" shooter. You can also buy a selection of the plastic cams. Look up the holley part numbers on Summit or holley.com You can also drill out your stock shooters a little (.002) at a time with a small numbered pin drill set. The only way to get the right shooter and cams is to tune at the track.
Try locking out the timing. More initial advance will help with the bog. and 60ft.
Get or make some rear jet extensions.
You're within easy driving distance to the Summit retail store south of Atlanta.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 10-14-2007 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 10-14-2007, 03:48 PM   #7
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

how do u lock out the timing?
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Old 10-14-2007, 03:59 PM   #8
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

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how do u lock out the timing?
With a GM style big cap HEI, remove the cap and rotor. Remove the weights and springs. Using two medium electrical tie wraps, bind the advance mechanism fully advanced by wrapping the tie wraps around the mechanism. Orient the tie wraps knots down under so that the rotor will go back on. reinstall the rotor and cap.
Loosen of the distributor bolt and turn the timing back a bit (it will now be very advanced) Start the motor and reset the timing to 34-36deg at idle without vac advance. reconnect the vacuum advance.

The vacuum advance may need to be limited now to around 12-15deg.

if the motor is now hard to start when its hot, install a ignition power switch on the 12+ power wire going to the HEI ( big red wire). Any good single pole single throw automotive switch with a rating of 10amps or more will do.
Crank the starter with the switch off then throw the switch and it will fire easily. this setup is often done on race cars with big rough idle cams that need full advance full time because of the overlap.
it will indicate to you if your car can use more intial advance for a beter launch (it usually helps especially if you have a initial bog) try it.
later you can recurve your mechanical advance for around 20-22deg initial and a smooth advance curve limited to 34-36deg at 3000-3200rpm. Just right for a 268H voodoo cam. Requires that you limit the amount of advance travel to around 12-16deg in the distributor.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 10-14-2007 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 10-14-2007, 04:43 PM   #9
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

could my sorry exhaust setup be casing the really bad 60ft times or not help . how could i unhook my exhaust without remove it form the car to run it at the dragstrip.

Last edited by intex1982; 10-14-2007 at 04:45 PM. Reason: 60
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Old 10-14-2007, 05:13 PM   #10
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

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Originally Posted by intex1982 View Post
could my sorry exhaust setup be casing the really bad 60ft times or not help . how could i unhook my exhaust without remove it form the car to run it at the dragstrip.
It is certainly not helping. i think you can figure out for yourself how to unbolt the exhaust from the headers.
Like I said there is 4 to 5 tenths in a good high stall converter.
I would get a 10" "3500stall".
If it was my car I would redo the exhaust system using a 2.5" head pipes to connect the headers to a 2.5"in x 3.5"out Flowmaster Y "scavenger" collector #Y250350 and use a 3.5" main pipe back over the rear axle into a 3.5" or 4" in/out muffler (flowmaster,dynomax or Magnaflow) behind the axle with either a big single tail pipe or two 2.5" to 3" tail pipes.
Any place that services diesel trucks can source the 3.5" exhaust pieces for ya. (mandrel bends and straight sections) It's up to you to cut and weld it together. Look at the "Mufflex" stuff for inspiration.
You can get the muffler and Y scavenger pipe from Summit.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 10-14-2007 at 05:24 PM.
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Old 10-14-2007, 06:19 PM   #11
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

yea the stall i have i cant foot break it to but 1100 rpm with out spining the tires. but my back breaks dont work that good
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Old 10-14-2007, 07:50 PM   #12
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

You cannot evaluate the actual stall of a torque converter unless the brakes and tires will hold at WOT. Testing and watching the launch rpm @ WOT at the drag strip with sticky tires is best.

Anything else is balony unless you have a transbrake.
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Old 10-15-2007, 08:46 PM   #13
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

f-bird88 i got the jegs 3500-3800 stall maybe ur right on it give me 4-5 tenths
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:32 PM   #14
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Re: new best 13.10 still bad 60'ft

Quote:
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f-bird88 i got the jegs 3500-3800 stall maybe ur right on it give me 4-5 tenths
Assome! Let us know how ya make out with it.
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:32 PM
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