Quote: Originally Posted by brodysZ28 i got 10.5 with a shim gasket for static compression, but i dont know the rod length or intake closing point... does anyone know these? 5.7 " will be the rod length, cam timing should be on your cam card

i cant seem to find the intake closing point... where would I find the cam card on the internet? i have never actually looked at one of these...

i thought Lunatic/holley would have it listed on the site. i know comp cams has spec card searches. crane has specs listed too.
not sure where the holley/lunati stuff is

a similar 262 cam by comp which specs out at like 218/224 had a IVC point of 57 degrees. i figure that voodoo will be 55-58 degrees

Cylinder Head Volume (cc)Cylinder Head Vol
(cubic in.)03.538Piston Head Volume (cc)Piston Head Vol
(cubic in.)00.732Gasket Thickness (in.)Swept Volume
(cubic in.)43.731Gasket Bore (in.)T.D.C. Volume
(cubic in.)04.594Cylinder Bore Diameter (in.)Gasket Volume
(cubic in.)00.198Deck Clearance (in.)
Note: Neg. nubmer above deck, Pos. number below deckDeck Volume
(cubic in.)00.126Stroke (in.)STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO10.519
OPTIONAL DATARod Length (in.)Adjusted Stroke (in.)02.856 Intake Closing Point (degrees)
ABDC @ 0.050 lift plus 15 degrees DYNAMIC EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION RATIO08.812
thats what i got using a shim gasket... a thicker gasket will lower the cr a few tenths.
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i just tried copying and pasting but it got a little screwed up.

oh and don't add 15 degrees to that junk...i donno why they say that but it's wrong

btw i can't make out any of that

yeah i'm not sure whats goin on in there

ok so i put the intake closing point as 55 and put the dimensions of a shim gasket and static compression ended up being 10.5 and dynamic was 8.9

what calculator are you using? ivc seems about right. 55-56 is probly what that cam will have but its hard to say. its very aggressive and that would mean sooner intake closing but not always.

i used this one...
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp

compression calculator seems to work right if you put in the right dimensions. But the dynamic i dont like. plus 15 degrees i dont aggree with.

EDIT: i put in my numbers and got a 8.02 DCR when i calculated it to be 7.65 using a different formula that is well used by many. i think it shoots alittle high

the adding 15 degrees is wrong, i know that from personal experience, just put the exact number in and it will be right

so i should be fine right?

i think you will. You sticking with the 416 heads?

yea i think so... cheap and a lot better than the other heads. im going to get a valve job, ported, decked, and spring install.

Srry I haven't been on in a couple fo days. But no i did have new stock valve springs put in, and as far as compression goes I ran 93 octane all the time. I did put some 110 in it once it made a massive difference, didn't knock bad with 93 as long as it was timed right. I got my compression figures from Eagle, I bought one of their rotating assemblies. I didn't have the head chambers cc'd so I guess tha tis what it was. But there is a guy I know runs his 12.5-1 396 bbc on 93

damn thats high compression for pump gas... i will probably run 93 all the time too since i have that option... i would like to run some race fuel sometime too... what did you run on pump gas compared to 110 octane?

I always ran it on good gas. But I drove it around town with the cheap stuff. Well actually it was a mixture of 93 and 110. But there was a big big noticeable difference with the good gas. I can't exaggerate. I've been using 110 in my motor right now and is 10.2-1 no more than what I use it for I'll pay the 4.50 a gallon, but there really is no comparison

yea i would like to rung 110 sumtime... it would get pretty expensive though...

Here's an example:
350 with vortec heads, good valve job, bee hive springs, 9.97:1 CR, Speed Pro flat tops and an old Comp 268H (.488" lift, 218 @ .050", advanced 4 degrees) flat tappet cam with 1.6 Pro Magnum rockers. Air Gap intake and 600 vac sec holley.
Crappy hedman shorty headers and a single 3" cat . Typically modded 700 with a TCI 2500 stall, 3.73 BW Posi and 26" drag radials have given me a best 60' of 1.88. 3600+lbsw/ driver.
13.4 @ 102 no juice. 20 mpg hiway too.

do you run that consistantly or do you think you could get a little better time than that? what kind of mileage do you get city?

I made half a dozen passes in row all within a tenth or two. More rear gear and a higher stall will shave off another couple of tenths but I don't want to kill the drivability. I'm sure there's more power in a better exhaust too.
City mileage is less than 15 mpg mostly because I love buzzing through the gears. 6500 rpm 1st to 2nd.

Yea, I would think that you'd be able to run a little faster... what do you run for a muffler? So that thing revs all the way up to 6500? I would be too scared to bring it up that high...

Hey Orr89RocZ!
I took a quick look at your car pics and I see you're using the factory twin element air filter housing. Not to steal any of your secrets, but can you tell me how you modified it? I've got a hood clearence issue because of my RPM Air Gap and I have a plan to adapt the factory piece to a 14" air cleaner base and lid.
You seem to making enough power judging by your track time so whatever you've done seems to let the factory piece flow enough air.

I run vortecs too. I recommend them. Picked them up locally for 200 bucks for the pair.

geeze, thats a hell of a deal... did they need work?

Upgrade the valve springs. Comp cams beehives are your best bet. Drop right with no machining. Moves your lift capacity into the mid 5's.

yup you got a good deal... what do you got for a cam? have u ever run at the track or dyno'd?

Normally the guy sells them for 300 per pair, but I traded a set of worked over 601s that I had bought for 200.

The only thing I did to them was clean them up really good, lap the valves just to be safe (with the spindle tool and the lapping lubricant stuff), then I bought some "performance Z28" springs that are just a single spring that can handle like .500 lift or something (maybe it's .550). The guy guarantees them and will replace them if they are bad. That's it. I would NEVER buy a new set of vortecs. Might as well just save a few hundred more and get a aluminum head.
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I followed the build in a chevy high performance magazine. They made 430 hp and 525 ft/lbs. I've run a 12.8 at the track, but I know it's good for quicker than that.

wow, where did all that power come from... how much power do 400 small blocks have stock? i'm impressed with the time tho, did u get a bad 60'?

400 blocks suck from the factory. They all came equipped with useless boat anchor heads. I think mine was out of a 78 Blazer and had 180 hp or something. 400s have big displacement. Vortec heads are darn good out of the box for a factory head.

Here's my best time slip:

DSC02085 (Large).JPG

I'm a real shitty driver. My 60' are all over the place. My reaction times are all over the place too. Notice I was probably sleeping with that blazing quick .7.

I've got drag radials, but still have troubles launching. I need to work on being consistent. I get to excited and mash the gas right away after I pop the clutch. I'm sure I can get that 60' to a 1.7 or something. I think I saw a guy on here who had a 1.6. They also prep the track well where I go, so that's always a plus.

I'd like to go 11's on this setup (all motor). I think wha with some roller rockers (just got some crane golds), electric water pump, better tuning on the carb (I learn as I go. Right now it's pretty much slapped on there with jets that make the spark plugs tan), long tubes, and suspension work.

Let me tell you though. Even when I have a bad run with this motor, I'm still running a mid to low 13. Not too bad. MUCH better than the 305, where a bad run would get me high 16s.

hell, my buddies 83 Chevy shortbed went mid 13's and it was a heavy animal.

all it was, was a 350 refreshened motor with near 9.75 to 1 compression, stock truck vortec castings, performer rpm intake, stock LT1 roller cam (203/207 or somthing like duration) and full exhaust. 3500 stall/3.73 gears.

figured it had about 350hp on motor, if not abit more. 400hp is easy to get if you swap in a REAL cam like the hotcam or larger. you cant beat a vortec head when your on a budget

yea what is it about the vortec heads anyway? is the difference the way the air enters the combustion chamber like a swirl pattern or something? 9.75:1... what did he have to run in that for gas?

regular fuels, i think 91-93 octane but i think it could run on a 87-89 octane gas

I run 91-93. Premium. I've got dished pistons.

hmm, i should be close to that compression, what was the lift for the cam on the 83 shortbed? i would hope i would atleast be able to run mid 13's if that truck can.

LT1 roller cam. roughly .450/.460 lift with 1.5 rockers.

Just for your info, a vortec head can only handle .480 lift. It can be machined for more though.

ya, i read that somewhere, you can buy them from some place specially machined for higher lift so u dont have to go get it done yourself.

Yeup. But if you buy them used, and get them cheap, I think machinging them defeats the purpose of the budget build. For me, I stuck a 200 dollar used set of vortecs on, threw in a cam and I'm running 12s.

how does your tranny hold up to tat power? is that the stock rearend too?

Yeah. So far nothing has exploded. I've gotten 15 runs in with the 400. I got in 6 runs with the 305. I've always had drag radials. I'm sure it will blow one day. We'll see! I'd like it to last until I finish college. Then I might move into an LSx engine.

machining vortecs for screw in studs and guide boss clearance, some spring pocket widening is like 200 bucks for the pair. thats not too much since you can get vortecs for less than 300 a pair used

500 for a pair of heads that can handle most any cam/spring combo is awesome. you will need to match the springs to the cam and those springs can be another 60-100 bucks or so.

small parts like that will add up the cost but you cant beat the performance a vortec head will give you. you'll have the same money tied up in a set of reconditioned 083 L98 iron heads and they wont make more power.

Scoggin dickey sells already modded vortec heads for up to .550 lift for i think under 600 a pair. thats a good deal, but not sure of the spring on there. If its got good specs you can run a decent roller cam.

do you drive it daily too? but usually if you get a cam thats gor that much lift you have to get the recommended springs too so the stock springs will be gone anyways.

I used a performance Z28 spring. I think it's a remake of the springs that came on the 70's LT-1 engine. I think they are good for up to .550 lift. But don't quote me on that. They were cheap.

I don't drive it daily. We get snow up here in Wisconsin so it's only road worthy for 5 months out of the year or so. I don't drive it in the rain or snow. It goes out a few times a week. I usually don't like to let it sit out all day while I'm at work either. Plus it's expensive with gas.

400 small block, vortec heads...which CHP build?
My 350 with a smaller cam (218/488") and 3.73 gears, 2500 stall gets me 13.4.

What are your rear gears?
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I see you're running 3.23's
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I'm thinking with a cam like yours a 350 would be mid 12's. You can certainly go faster.

yea that sux about the snow, i've got that problem too... what do you get for gas mileage? skinny z, do you think I would run right around your ballpark?

Cam is Lunati pn 00010 (I think ). 292/292 duration, .480" lift @ .050.

I like to think it will go mid 12s no problem maybe even high 11s? I don't know. I'm a bad driver, and I don't like to talk my car up much. It's only as good as the driver in it.

As for gas mileage... Not totally sure. Maybe 10?

After all this dialouge, what do you think you're combination will be?
engine specs...
trans...
rear gears...

You can skip the spring pocket and valve machining and go with Comp beehive springs. They drop right in, will allow for something like .550" lift and extend the rev range of hydraulic rollers to something like 6500+rpm.
You would still need to machine for screw in studs though. Guide plates aren't needed if you use self aligning rockers.