i never really wanted to make one of these threads but im woundering latly how much power my 383 engine will put out once im finished. and take it to the track to see the time. i know the best way is to get it dynoed and take it to the track but i would like a rough idea. oh its going to be a semi streetable mostly drag car. ill start with the car specs i have planed and also then the engine after. Body and drivetrain: -Fully gutted ( no carpet or rearseats. fully gutted) -SFC -8 point roll bar -lexan windows all around -4.11 posi 12 bolt rear -TH400 -15x10.5 drag slick tires, 28" tall ---------------------------------------------- Engine specs: -1977' 350 4 bolt 010 block bored .30 over, maybe .40 over. but to me thats pushing it. -Fully forged Internals with 3.750 crankshaft with 6" H-beam rods -Forged Dished Pistions. --Wieand 6-71 Supercharger kit. (2 600cfm supercharger holley carbs, scoop, all brackets and fuel lines). lets say running at 10psi of boost. -Full lenth headers with lets say 3.5" exhaust, no cat, and highflow muffler. -Roller Cam conversion -1.6 Roller rockers -Dart Pro 1 Aluminum Cylinder Head. specs on them are as followed: -200cc Intake Ports -64cc Combustion Chambers -2.02'' Int/1.60'' Exh Valves -1.250'' Valve Springs, 110lbs @ 1.700'' -.520'' Max Lift -Straight Plugs there are some iron heads with a higher lift and are about $150 cheaper for each cly head. has 620. max lift. rest of the specs are about the same. same valves and runner size. Here is another set of heads. tell me which ones would be better for my set up. im kinda stuck in the head and cam combo. im trying to find the best fit. Dart Pro 1 Aluminum Cylinder Heads, specs are as followed -64cc Combustion Chambers -215cc Intake Ports -2.050'' Int/1.600'' Exh Valves -1.437'' Valve Springs, 130lbs @ 1.800'' -.620'' Max Lift -Angle Plugs all heads are assembled as well. now for the cam specs: -Crane Cams Mechanical Roller Camshaft -Adv. Duration: 294°/302° -Gross Lift: .543''/.561'' thats all the cam specs has for that type of cam. it says its good for turbo and supercharged engines. ill probably get a custom comp cam but im not to sure what size to get. so far i think thats about it. what do you think? im not dead on about the head and combo situation. it seems abit iffy to me. im not a pro at good head and cam combo. that aparts gets me all confuzed trying to figure it out. anyways let me know what you think hp range will be with a 1/4 time. if you have any suggestions on what not to get and what to get. that will be highly recommeded. i dont want to get the procharger. i like the weiand. so i wont be changing my mind about that. if i left anything out please let me know.

If you are running the blower, then step up to the Dart Pro 1 230cc with 2.08/1.60 valves or with the 1.625 ex valve if you can find them.

yeah i found a set of thos for fairly decent price.
but everyone is saying that 2.08 valves are way to big.

neither of those heads spring packages will support that cam. you need a cam with alot of pressure on the seat and open for a solid roller and with that blower. i'm thinking over 200lbs seat and perhaps 500lbs open or something like that.


a hydraulic roller will like thos 1.437 springs in the dart 215's. the large 2.08 valves wont be too big with the boost.

I am running DART 2.05/1.60 heads and they work great. I think going to a 2.08 will be a little to big for your combo.

you can't really compare your combo to his, with that huffer on there the motor will more than likely want the 230's.

i didnt event hink about that part for the seats.
i found afew that are around 250 and 350lbs.
ill see if i can find them again.

i was thinking of going with a 2.05 valve. i wasent sure if the 2.08 valves would flow as well as a 2.05 valve. to close to the cly walls. anyways since it will be with boost. it might acturally help it.

ill take a look for some bigger heads. but would that cam be good for a supercharger? it so expensive. over $400 i dont really want to pay that for just a cam.

need more specs for that cam. it does seem expensive for a cam. Try asking around to different companies to see what they have for a blower

Do you have to have a solid roller? a hydraulic roller would work well to

don't do lexan windows. they fit like crap, and look horrible. keep the stock windows, they just make the car look more complete, and less like a bondo-buggy bracket car.

A Lexan windshield takes 10 pounds off the car. Because the factory windshield is glued in, there's no molding around the window like in older cars to help hold the windshield in. A Lexan windshield needs to be bolted in place.

Lexan side windows are fixed in place and can't be rolled down and being a non post car, they don't seal very well against the door seal to keep water out of the car.

A Lexan rear window takes a lot of weight off the rear tires but also can't be opened for access into the rear.

Lexan will still scratch. It will yellow if the car is stored outside in the sun for long periods of time. Lexan is not street legal for windows.