My plan is to install my Morroso battery cut off switch from the inside out at the bottom of where the spare tire used to be and then extend it past the bumper with the 18" pust pull extenstion. I am also going to put a bright colored sticker or paint on the handle stating "PUSH OFF", will this pass tech? The handle will be kinda low to the ground because I am still running 26" rear tires, but I willl ensure it is visable. The switch will be wired to kill all electronics so that willl not be a problem But I want to leave the car looking as stock as possible by not drilling through my bumper or tail light. Thanks for your feed back!

I can't see it being a problem as long as a safety person can easily see it and push it in case of emergency.

It needs to be wired up to kill the engine when turned off. Just disconnecting the battery cable will not kill the engine because the alternator back feeds the system to keep power to the ignition.

I'm assuming the battery will be in a sealed and vented box?

I have a serious question about cut off switches, as long as the battery is securely mounted, why would you need one? If a car has an accident I can't see the battery positioning being a critical piece of information. Some BMW's even came from the factory with the battery in the back.

Mazda Miata has the battery in the rear and doesn't need a master switch either because it's the factory location. The old VW bugs have the battery under the passenger seat but you won't find too many at the strip with the battery still in that location.

The rulebook states that any battery not in the factory location must have a master switch mounted at the rear.

The purpose of the master switch is to kill the engine and all the electrics in case of a problem. If you had an engine fire on the starting line, a safety crew could quickly hit the switch, killing the engine, fuel pump etc.

If you're at the top end of the track and upside down after a crash with the engine still running, they could quickly kill it with the switch and eliminate any chance of an electrical fire from having a battery cable pinched in an accident.

is there a rule on ET or MPH in the stock location?
people are always trying to trick me into moving my battery.
i like it where its at, myself.

Alky you state that it is for the purpose of killing the electronics/engine. Then you say that it is for a failed cable after a catastrophic event to prevent a battery short. You can do either with a single switch, but not both. Either the alternator would keep the car running, or if you isolated your charging system and ran it back to a connection ahead of the switch, that would leave you with a non-disconnected wire to the front of the car. I am not harassing the Alky, but genuinely trying to get to the bottom of this. I currently have two switches in line. With the alternator tied in after the two switches, and my ECM and fuel pump tied to the area between the switches. This eliminates the hot 4/O wire from being hot after the switch is disconnected AND kills the engine and fuel pump. The last thing that I want when a guy is trying to save me from a burning car is for him to be standing at the rear of my car pissed at me because the kill switch didn't kill the car. OR have the battery explode on him as he is trying to help me.

Oh yeah, if I were you I wouldn't move the battery. The MASSIVE advantages of moving the battery just don't exist! Buy a sticky tire for the track and eliminate the nightmare of moving the battery.

I have my alternator running straight to my battery but I have all of the rest of my car get its power from a distribution block after the switch. So if the switch is turned off the rest of the car is not getting power especially the MSD box which wont allow the car to run and the alternator is just going to the battery so it cant keep things running. I havent tested the switch out yet but I dont see how it wouldnt work. If you had everything hooked up to the battery directly I could see how the alternator could keep it running.

Grpro your engine will die! You are one of the few that has your system correct. The only thing that I have done differently is that if you did wad your car up (not likely) and that 10 ga wire from your battery to the alternator got pinched (EXTREMELY unlikely) the battery would have a path to short out. I think that a 10ga wire would melt and disconnect itself before allowing the battery to explode. Your system is wired properly. I had some other situations that led to my wiring.

It doesn't matter how you have it wired up so that the engine is killed when the switch is turned off, you still need to have the master switch on the positive cable as per the rulebook if you want to pass a tech inspection. When turned off, it should kill the engine and all electrics in the car. The only hot wire in the car when the switch is turned off is the battery feed for the alternator. All that does is provide a hot source for the alternator to charge. It's normally hooked to the positive post of the battery so that when the switch is turned off, the alternator can't back feed and keep power to the rest of the car.

I speak of a failed cable in case of a crash or some other electrical problem. If for some reason the battery cable started a fire or maybe you screwed up and have some sort of fuel or oil fire under the hood, if the safety crew turns off the master switch, no electric device in the car will have power except the power post on the alternator. This will kill the engine, fans, electric fuel pump etc.

If you have a fire under the hood and the master switch only kills the engine and not the rest of the electrics, a poorly wired electric fuel pump would continue to work and feed fuel to the fire.

That's the way they want it done in the rulebook. If you don't want to wire it up properly, don't expect to pass a tech inspection.

I have mine the same way. Main alt. wire to positive post on the battery, then from there to the switch in the tail light, then from the switch to my main dist. block up front. It will kill the motor when you turn the switch off.

i think its a push pull lever now right?

Any master switch installed as a push pull, push has to be the off position. As long as OFF is clearly marked, there's never an issue.

alot of the old bracket cars back when i was a kid would have the lever to where you had to pull it off.. and had "Jerk off" painted above it. lol