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You can get a short 8" section of 1/4" line at Napa with the oversize fitting on it for about $3 if you don't want to use adaptors. I bought it and cut off the flare and made my own line with it.
I used the small 1 1/16" bore Strange m/c and moved my pedal rod up to 2" below the pivot point of the pedal to the bracket. I used the top 2 bolt holes from the power booster to mount the m/c and that gives the recommended 6:1 pedal ratio.
Wilwood 4 piston kit up front and Torino drums on my 9" out back.
Pedal is harder than power as would be expected but better than what you guys are probably getting with a 1 1/8" m/c and just moving the rod up an inch. Stock pedal ratio is around 3:1 for the power, (12" pedal arm with the push rod 4" down), by moving the rod to 2" down you get 6:1. Keep in mind your pedal will travel farther to move the same volume of fluid, but it will move easier.
And you don't have to bend the pedal arm like that, I simply adjusted my rod end to pull the pedal down and bent the contact tab for the brakelight switch on the pedal arm down flush...everything works as it should.
I switched my stock cylinder to the Strange MC, I've eliminated the prop valve & will plumb in "T" to the master & a Jegs adj valve to the back. My prob is the adj valve is 3/16 & the line is 1/4, so finding an adapter should be my biggest problem.
__________________ Marc Freire
Rocklin Automotive, Goodyear 6800 Five Star Blvd Rocklin, Ca 95677
916-315-0335 www.rocklinautomotive.com
again....autozone, murray's, o'reilley's, etc all sell that type of adapter.
2nd time posting this info.
__________________ my car thats never done
"I'd rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6"
First Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '05, Second Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '06, Best Modified Camaro Thirdgenfest '07 , Second Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '08
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again....autozone, murray's, o'reilley's, etc all sell that type of adapter.
2nd time posting this info.
I had trouble finding adapters for my rear "Y" block NPT to -3 AN rear brake hoses, so I was expecting a difficult time locating the 3/16" to 1/4" adapter too. I did locate them pretty quick.
I found it, & installed the new master & Jegs prop valve, all I have to say is what a difference. I used to have to use all my leg muscle to hold it & then it was still questionalbe. Now its almost effortless.
__________________ Marc Freire
Rocklin Automotive, Goodyear 6800 Five Star Blvd Rocklin, Ca 95677
916-315-0335 www.rocklinautomotive.com
I had trouble finding adapters for my rear "Y" block NPT to -3 AN rear brake hoses, so I was expecting a difficult time locating the 3/16" to 1/4" adapter too. I did locate them pretty quick.
I found it, & installed the new master & Jegs prop valve, all I have to say is what a difference. I used to have to use all my leg muscle to hold it & then it was still questionalbe. Now its almost effortless.
there is no reason manual brakes should be any harder and stop any less than a working power brake set up.
I had trouble finding adapters for my rear "Y" block NPT to -3 AN rear brake hoses, so I was expecting a difficult time locating the 3/16" to 1/4" adapter too. I did locate them pretty quick.
I found it, & installed the new master & Jegs prop valve, all I have to say is what a difference. I used to have to use all my leg muscle to hold it & then it was still questionalbe. Now its almost effortless.
im currently running stock front calipers and sock drums in the rear on a 10 bolt. im an not sure which kit to go with.... the car is for drag use only now so im not to picky as long as i can hold her at the line and eventually stop before the sand.
only reason to do this is m cam is way to big for my power brakes and the can didnt help much at all.
you could try to use the stock master cylinder first and see how you like it. i am currently running the stocker in mine and i think it works well but i have 99 SS brakes on the rear not drums. one other thing that is mentioned several times in this post is not to forget to move the pivot location at the pedal or your brakes won't feel or work for crap.
just for reference i run 11.72 @ 113 and don't have any trouble stopping before the sand.
89 dodge caravan master clyinder from orlieys.
brand new, and the cheapest around.
pedal is a lil spongy, brakes at the bottom right now, but a couple more bleeds and ill be good.
stops fine, just a lil more foot pressure.
__________________ 1988 IROC-z/28. 4th gen interior. 408 LSx
sporting the stock fuse box and taillights.
too many mods to type.
6.37@107.19 pump gas. all motor.
you could try to use the stock master cylinder first and see how you like it. i am currently running the stocker in mine and i think it works well but i have 99 SS brakes on the rear not drums. one other thing that is mentioned several times in this post is not to forget to move the pivot location at the pedal or your brakes won't feel or work for crap.
just for reference i run 11.72 @ 113 and don't have any trouble stopping before the sand.
did you just remove the booster? i dont mind doing a free modificaion and yeah ill definatly move that linkage
did you just remove the booster? i dont mind doing a free modificaion and yeah ill definatly move that linkage
yeah you have to remove it or it will work as if you shut the car off and killed all vaccum and everyone who has had that happen knows it really sucks.
what i did was removed the master cylinder from the booster and then the booster from the firewall. From there i removed the bracket from the back of the booster and used it to mount the master cylinder to the fire wall. you will need to drill new holes in the bracket for the master cylinder or figure out a way to use the holes that are there, i have seen it done both ways. then when you get the master cylinder mounted you can cut and reweld the original pueh rod or make a new one, just keep in mind to make sure that the original push rod is sqaure and straight before you weld it or it could break under pressure.
i have seen earlier on in this post were some guys used a rod end and threaded drill rod to make a new push rod, if rewelding the original doesn't sound like something you feel safe doing then i would look through this post and may contact one of those members.
aerospace components will sell you the adjustable rod end setup for 29.95. thats where i got mine from.
only vendor that will sell it seperate.
same goes with the aluminum adapter plate for the mopar/strange/wilwood master.
burkhart chassis or TRZ are the only outlets that offer the bracket singularly.
rod end 29.99+ship 41.00
adapter 60+ ship 71.00
mopar master 36.00
total of $148.00
car stops better than others i know using the strange and wilwood master.
some say it isnt correct, but the mopar master has much better pedal feel, and its aluminum too, so dont let fancy advertising fool you into buying a 100+ dollar master that will require you to run adapter fittings ($$).
the mopar is threaded and ready to take a 3/16 brake line. 3/8x24 inv flare.
, just keep in mind to make sure that the original push rod is sqaure and straight before you weld it or it could break under pressure.
if rewelding the original doesn't sound like something you feel safe doing then i would look through this post and may contact one of those members.
hope this helps
Cutting and rewelding the rod seems pretty sketchy to me. I don't think I'd want to trust my life to that, but what do I know. I spent the $$$ and bought the Burkhart kit. I sound like there's more than 1 way to skin thi cat, though.
Cutting and rewelding the rod seems pretty sketchy to me. I don't think I'd want to trust my life to that, but what do I know. I spent the $$$ and bought the Burkhart kit. I sound like there's more than 1 way to skin thi cat, though.
well it being a little sketchy is way i put a second option about making one or in your case buying one from a company which is just fine. i personally am a little more old school and also have been taught how to weld by a welding professor at a college who is one of my friends, but not everyone has those resources and have to do it another way.
well it being a little sketchy is way i put a second option about making one or in your case buying one from a company which is just fine. i personally am a little more old school and also have been taught how to weld by a welding professor at a college who is one of my friends, but not everyone has those resources and have to do it another way.
i can weld, i still bought a rod. in other situations, id cut and weld anything.
a great tip would be to have a steel sleeve or tube spacer to go over the rod, then weld it on each side. much more safe than a but weld, and its still a cheap option.
Don't get offended, I wasn't saying that you were sketchy. To me, that's jut something that's too critical to be welded on. That rod take a helluva lot of stress. A sleeve would work, but my theory is that I won't cut corners on anything safety related. That being said, the way you guys have attacked the rest of the swap is pretty impressive.
Last edited by Big, White & Sl; 05-07-2009 at 10:07 AM.
Reason: grammar
Don't get offended, I wasn't saying that you were sketchy. To me, that's jut something that's too critical to be welded on. That rod take a helluva lot of stress. A sleeve would work, but my theory is that I won't cut corners on anything safety related. That being said, the way you guys have attacked the rest of the swap is pretty impressive.
i didn't get offended, i was just agreeing with you that it could be a sketchy thing to do if not done right and what you said about this situation has truth in its own right. that is way i felt posting an option was needed because like you said someone might think doing it that way is "sketchy" or unsafe in their eyes.
Figured I would post this in here since ive been looking at all the threads/posts on everyones broad selection of manual master cylinder installations. Since the TRZ adapter is made for mopar style masters i figured these would come in handy -
ive always been told that the large bore will give you hard pedal, but stop like all hell, and a small bore will have a spongy pedal.
All the cars i've raced that had too large of a bore for a manual brake set up had extremely hard pedal...two footing...and did'nt stop for crap, just flat out could'nt get enough pedal pressure to transmit line pressure to clamp the pads down...to say they were all scarey is an understatement.
I have been asked for the dimensions for the adapter a few times now, so I thought I would post up. I haven't gotten to the point in my project to bleed the brakes, but I think it should work.
All the cars i've raced that had too large of a bore for a manual brake set up had extremely hard pedal...two footing...and did'nt stop for crap, just flat out could'nt get enough pedal pressure to transmit line pressure to clamp the pads down...to say they were all scarey is an understatement.
yup josh is 100% correct, I have to swap out my manual master this week for a smaller bored one. Two HEAVY foots on the pedal and barely stopping for the last turn around, definitely not something I felt comfortable on the street driving. Hoping this smaller bore setup will stop like Josh keeps bragging about. Guy at the speed shop told me I needed a 1-1/16" bore, josh that sound about right? Stock 4 wheel discs all around on the car.
I have no idea what the bore size is of my master cylinder. It's a GM aluminum master cylinder from an S10 that had manual brakes. I would assume it's smaller than a power assist master cylinder.
My front brakes are Aerospace drag racing disk and they're not very big by street car standards. My rear brakes are Ford 11 x 2-1/4 drums and I have no problems slowing down from 140+ mph. If I get real hard on the brakes, I can take the first turnoff and with moderate pressure, can easily slow down for the last turnoff.
If I pull the chute as I cross the finish line, moderate brake pressure can get me slow enough for the first turn
Over the winter, I may adapt and swap in a set of Ford Explorer rear disk brakes.
i havent seen anything like that by another company.
i did see a guy that just had a tube nut welded to the shock tower with a bolt in it. the head of the bolt applied pressure to the face of the master clyinder.
pretty neat idea.
i may do something similar, as its easy access for welding.
i should have snapped a pic of it!
, Second Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '08
