I am just curious what the limitations of a hydraulic roller camshaft are as far as RPM before hitting valve float? I am currently running a solid roller but I am considering switching to HR to make the car a little more streetable.

I ran a herbert c6pj hyd. roller with an afr rev. kit in a mild 406 street motor , it ran pretty good (11.70@119) it was very streetable and never had any problem with valve float

titanium retainers and lighter than stock valves? if so then I'd say the upper limit would be 6700-6800 with your proper spring setup.

you can run a hydro roller upwards of 8k with the right stuff....
i have to ask, though, what troubles are you having with your solid roller?

I have a hydraulic flat tappet.

I dynoed mine and the power dropped off at 6150. Not sure if that is fuel related or valve spring related.

See my sig for hp and et

I am running an Erson Hyd. Roller cam w/ Comp cam rollers/lfters on RHS heads, Have been up to 7,000rpm many times w/ no problems. I won't push it any harder though. Usually shift @ 66-6700rpm....

I run a Comp Cams Hyd roller in a 383 in my 2800 lb 92 Grand Am. It runs low 6.40s @ 106 in the 1/8, shifting at 6800 and trapping about the same. I've had the same cam and lifters in 2 differant 383s, 6 seasons so far.

What do you run?

Those are nice numbers! Did you have to do anything special to make the hydraulic roller live in the block?

Let me rephrase, what are the specs on the cam, how many RPM does it turn and do you have a rev kit or anything special?

Nothing special cam is 548 lift on int and ex, have to look up duration. The RHS heads are massaged w/ 2.05 valves. I do have a forged lower end, Manley Rods, Eagle crank, JE pistons. My engine builder is really good and I told him what I wanted and that's what he came up with.
Car ran 12.7's first time at the track on old tranny (stock) and not tuned that well. I put the motor in last fall. I can't wait to get back out there in the spring. Hookin'up was a problem, been takin care of those issues all winter! I've since got the tuning dialed in pretty good and hope to do better??

buddy of mine runs 10.30's at 130 with a n/a 309" ford. trick flow heads, dual plane intake, 5 speed manual transmission. hydro roller cam with less than .500" lift. raceweight is 3300 lbs.

I spun my comp cam custom grind to 7000 with no issued, beating the rev limiter, but other than that, my compxe288hr doesnt like to go past 6300 or so.

mine likes 66-6700, beyond that it's not doing much. Have hit the big 7K when shifting late and on the dyno figuring out peak power etc. I really don't like taking it that high. My builder says it'll hold to 7200rpm, but don't want to go there. These days I keep my limiter at 6800 and all is well...

Do you think your car will go 10.XX in the 1/4? In my book, 106 mph in the 1/8 is pretty damn impressive...

No, not w/ 3.42 gears. I've only been to the strip once w/ this motor and ran a 12.7 @ 106MPH best, if you read post above I was still dialing in and had problems hooking up, tranny etc. I have been working on those issues all winter. Hoping to run @ Maxton in June ( standing mile)? Then I'll change the gear to 4:10 or 3:90.....
12's are a long way from 10's, my car is too heavy and would need a heavy shot and or alot of stripping out to get near that number....
And yes I would say those are impressive numbers!

i don't care how fast you go, it's only satisfying once...get out while you still can!!!

???? Get out??? Not quite following you. Any time I'm over 100mph it's satisfying! I've owned fast cars/motorcycles for 1/2 of my adult life it's tooo late to get out...

Did nothing special, my block is a factory roller block. Running Comp 987 springs set up at 1.890 and -.050 keepers. Still running the factory spyder plate in it. This cam even made it through a blown engine last year. Broke the crank, right behind # 4 main. Piston hit the valves when open and spit it all through the side of the block. Didn't even nick the cam. I wouldn't consider my cam streetable, it's pretty radical below 3000 rpm.

I skipped all the posts just to set stuff straight.

I run a 240/246 duration on a hyd. roller cam. motor makes power to 6600 or so. i shift on motor at 6800 on the spray i shift about 7k

you need a hydra rev kit or some sort IMO. what it does is keeps the lifters down from flying up. its very easy and doable.

Not entirely...the main purpose of a rev kit is to allow the valve spring to solely control the valve and rocker. The additional spring of the rev kit helps eliminate the valve spring from having to control the heavy hydraulic roller tappet, thus leading to increased valve train stability at higher engine speeds. Yes, it will help control the lifter from coming out of it's bore in the event of a valve train related failure, but the only way it can really come out of the bore would be for one of lifter retention devices to break, whether it be a link bar on aftermarket lifters or the OE style dogbone. Many consider a rev kit to be a band aid to an improper valve train set up (i.e. wrong valve springs, heavy retainers/valves, etc.), but I don't think it can hurt when trying to use a hydraulic roller valve train for high performance applications--some may consider that an oxymoron?

If you do not have an OE roller block, you are probably better to stick with the solid roller, because your retro fit lifters are not cheap, your probably going to need new valve springs and pushrods, and I would install a rev kit and titanium retainers if your budget permits.

The cam that was in my vert was 242/248 @ .050, .567/.585 lift. I turned it as high as 7600 a few nights when I needed a little more before the shift. Peak power was around 68-7k, I regularily turned it around 7200 in low gear, 68-7 in the rest. No rev kit, but I would have loved to have one (wasn't one available for stock type hyd roller lifters when I built the motor). I do run a bit overly stout double springs though, and they ate a couple sets of stock lifters before I switched to the aftermarkets(still drop-in utilizing the stock spyder and guides).

The scary part of that combo was that I still had a GM cast crank in it...