so waht is the range for mech roller for a bbc? including, all valvetrain, and chain. and roller lifters?

Guessing you mean price range, there's way too many variables to answer that. You could spend a few hundred at a swap meet, $1500ish on all new or $5kish on all new.

springs locks and retainers: 150$, pushrods: 80$, cam: 260$, lifters: 220$, chain: 60$, button: 20$.

that seems fair, how much more over a flat tappet mech. cam?

dont know, flat tappet sucks. I did find another cam i might be interested in, but i will be making a call to see what they might suggest for a custom grind.

Alright, i might go with a hyd roller as i found a grind by comp on the XE line, specs:

284/254 with .560/.580 lift on a 110 LSA

RECOMMENDS: "Pro street/bracket, 10.1+ compression, 3500+ stall, good intake"

I wonder if it will be fine with 9.7 to 1 compression? I wouldnt think .3 would make a darn, i got some heads i won off Ebay that are the large ports to help it breathe too, so the combo should be a bit stronger. Still trying to figure out whether to go with a square port ot oval intake, i am getting mixed answers on that too.

mill those heads down for more compression or that motor will be a dog, you're picking too large a cam if you're not going to shoot for 10.5-11:1

9.7 would make a nice daily driver with a smaller cam though

I have no problem getting 10.5 or damn close to it, but i wanted a little more leeway for the nitrous, but since i have access to avgas around the block, i say F it and just mill to 10.5, the comp grind states 10 to 1 up, so i thought that might be enough.

are u using efans? alum heads? large capacity alum. rad.?
may have to look to upgrade all of the above, just to keep everything on safe temp side.

Dont have much of it yet, that is to come after the engine is in and ready for cooling. I will be going with 2 elec fans, a large puller and a large pusher on the other side. Also will be a aftermarket 2 row radiator and try to make as much as i can get in thru the fron of the car and not just bottom feeding. Removing the AC too.

ahahaha. nitrous works well on 14:1 motors, why do you need leeway? av gas isn't race fuel, buy the right thing, but since you're still in the planning phase I'll let you have at it. I never do the bare minimum for compression, converters, gears, etc for a well balanced combo.

did u alredy buy the bbc?
is it not easier to go with sbc and t56?. cheeper prolly,i think u can see 10's on spray. if dont need driver mod. with sbc

you only need one QUALITY fan. Two will just create a restriction in the airflow path.

1 large Spal pull style fan with a shroud should do the trick. Leave the front of the radiator open to air. Make sure the black plastic lower air deflector is in good shape and is still angled. Removing the condenser will help out as well beings you are already removing the A/C.

When you are on the border od detonation on motor and you spray, i usually get engine detonation, not usually on a 100, but a 150 or higher i do anyway, the avgas is about 100 octane rating or so, we use it on my buddies big block for the nitrous. wWork perfect and the privce is right.

I wants 10s on motor and get everything ready for a 496 that i hope will go 9s on motor in the future.

Well, offset is what i plan on, have you seen a BBC in one of these? The room for a elec fan dead center is not really there, so one on the driver side pulling and the passenger side reverse side of the puller pushing(that is what i am hoping works).

A manal fan? No room really, and yea, that is why i stated i was removing the AC and to make more room for the radiator to clear the front of the motor.

I'm sure 1bad91Z was reffering to a large single electric. A good 16" elec with a full shroud will have no issues keeping it cool with a good dual row aluminum radiator. - Pushers' fans are very inefficeint, even when used to assist a puller.

284/254? Guessing @ .050? Even so, I'm not sure I'd run a lower exh duration with stock type heads. Aftermarket heads tend to have a large exhaust port for all intake cc's, thus don't need as much exh duration. - If they say 10:1 minimum, you will want at least 10.5:1 for it to co-operate well. Don't get too focused on static compression. Dynamic is what counts. Keith Blacks' website has some great compression calculators, the dynaimc calculator will take you cam specs into account and give you a much more important compression number. The larger the duration and the more overlap, the more static compression you can get by with and the more that will be needed.

I will check the calculation setup on the site out.

Sorry about the typo, it is 244/254 @.050.

Well, got the new (used) heads in, they are Way bigger than the truck heads, started cleaning up the ports while eliminating the casting flash, which there is plenty of. After i finish that i will cartridge roll the ports and chambers to smooth things out a tough and make them a bit better to try and prevent detonation. Found a good intake, but i have people telling me to run a square port intake on the ovals and some saying run a oval intake on them.

Well, ill be damned, the cam recommendation software on comp cams web site said that the cam i want to use is the #1 cam they recommend after i entered all the information, that is crazy, said 570 HP ay 6000 RPM and 557 TQ at 5000, not bad, i will play with the info a bit and see what it takes to get the 600 mark.

EDIT: It sais if i went with the larger exhaust valves i would have 590 HP at 6500 and the extra port work would be about 610, DAMN.

w/o accurate head flow numbers those HP calculators are far from accurate. Even then they are only good for playing with things like cam specs.

Contrary to popular internet/message board beliefs, dyno's are not pecker measuring tools. They are simply a tuning device that won't fit handily in your tool box.

that cam program is WAAAAAY optimistic when you even compare it to desktop dyno (which i've found to be somewhat accurate) it was putting most of my vortec combos at almost 475 horses where dd would put them 435-445 which is really close to my calculated numbers by mph. i'd say more like 530 hp would be more accurate maybe 550 with the port work, which is still plenty respectable and would be a blast none the less

I like DD for playing with cam specs, if I have accurate head flow numbers.

There's no way you'll see north of 550hp out a truely driveable engine combination with stock-type oval port heads. BUT, bbc's have that nice fat mountain platue of a torque "curve" that just puts a smile on your face everytime you so much as fire it up.

yeah shag, thats what i use it for as well, its REALLY close when you give it accurate numbers, and drag dyno is surprisingly good as well (about a tenth fast). helps when picking out parts and helps to give you an idea where you should be before you get to the track.

Well, when it is all said and done, i will dyno the car and see what it does. I have seen 468 put 650 HP to the flywheel with the same heads with home port work and no bench flow data to accurately track port work gains, so 1.5 HP per cube is easy to get, it would suck not to be able to make more than 550 to the flywheel, but i will live with it if it happens, i could go solid roller and i could make sure but i am happy with the hyd specs. The 496 to come in the future will be 700 HP, but that is a long way away.

sounds like its gonna be a strong runner.
perhaps u will have to keep ps to help with street tires and extra weight

Nah, i will be fine, not to mention i really dont want to hassle with it.(PS)

I cannot wait, but moneys isnt there for it to fly together, i need to sell some things, namely a 91 camaro. Funding was torn up buying that moser 12 bolt.

My 468ci combo with 12.5:1 compression, mildly ported Brodix 345cc heads, and a .730ish lift solid roller is putting out right around 750hp. Cut your head flow in half, drop the compression down to streetable/pump gas friendly and put a smaller cam in it and you'll be sitting around 500flywheel hp.

Doubt i will see only 500 HP, or i wouldnt have left the small block alone. 550 maybe, but barely making over 1 HP per cube? No way.

With production oval port heads, I'd say 500-550 is a decent number. It's not all about the numbers. Look at Supras. 1k+ hp to run 11's. - BBC's have a big fat power curve, which is far more important than peak dyno numbers.

Yea, the torque numbers are something i have yet to experience also, my small blocks are NOT on par with the big block TQ. From the builds i see n mags(which everyone here sais magazine articles are worthless) the power band on the pigs are awesome, they dont peak quickly nor fall off so fast, i cannot wait to get together, i am selling a 91 RS i have to help funding, i think i will gap the rings for a 200 hit, even though my kit only goes to 150 or 175, i might get a better plate and solenoids.