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Well fellas, i have stopped playing with the small blocks in the car. I sold the 383 for 2k$, bought a Moser 12 bolt with 4.30 gears. Was going to start the motor build but i knew i was going to need a better than 7.5 rearend. Sold my Dana 44 rearend and bought a 454 with the regular oval ports, not the good ones, but my buddy tells me i can port the hell out of them to. I am going to be swapping my T56 in from my 95 Z28 and i will be going with the Spohn trans crossmember/torque arm combo.
I am just trying to see what suggestion anyone might have to input for my new setup, it is a street car, so i am looking to get about 10 to 1 compression, sold roller cam(will post specs later). And then a 150 shot of gas. I am looking foreward to seeing what i can gte out of it, but thank god i have subframe connectors already. A roll bar will be in the future.
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Well fellas, i have stopped playing with the small blocks in the car. I sold the 383 for 2k$, bought a Moser 12 bolt with 4.30 gears. Was going to start the motor build but i knew i was going to need a better than 7.5 rearend. Sold my Dana 44 rearend and bought a 454 with the regular oval ports, not the good ones, but my buddy tells me i can port the hell out of them to. I am going to be swapping my T56 in from my 95 Z28 and i will be going with the Spohn trans crossmember/torque arm combo.
I am just trying to see what suggestion anyone might have to input for my new setup, it is a street car, so i am looking to get about 10 to 1 compression, sold roller cam(will post specs later). And then a 150 shot of gas. I am looking foreward to seeing what i can gte out of it, but thank god i have subframe connectors already. A roll bar will be in the future.
Why solid roller for a street car? Sounds like it will be a fun setup!
I'd stay down around 9.5:1 compressoin for a pump gas/street friendly BBC with iron heads. Standard 119 cc chamber heads require a dome to even get to 9.5, once you go over that they are much more prone to detonation due to the in-efficient burn pattern created by the dome.
Solid rollers aren't nearly as bad as most people make them out to be, the technology has come a long way. With good valvetrain components you only need check/re-set the lash about every other oil change(assuming something around a 2k oil change). - Not sure I would spend the $ for a roller cam set-up to only be optimizing the lesser oval ports. I would save that money and put it towards better heads. One of the best budget street heads going is the later model oval ports, but they require a special head gasket to mate up the cooling passages correctly(you'll need good head gaskets anyway). Stay away from square ports on anything less than 540ci on the street, even then, stick to the smaller heads. It's been proven time and time again that the square ports won't make as much power as the good ovals will on a smaller and/or lower rpm engine.
Run a square port intake on the oval port heads. You will need square port intake gaskets to do so, but this is another proven performance set-up. The intake runners won't choke the motor, and the swirl off the port entry promotes better atomization.
Good luck with the build.
__________________ Jp Shawgo
1986 camaro - 10.5 outlaw/Outlaw 632
1989 lead sled still awating its transformation
- If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again?
Thanks Shag, good info. I want about 10 to 1 but 9.5 is good enough. I will be going with a different motor in the future. It will be a 496, Patriot heads and be about 11 to 1, but probable 10.5 since i want to spray the dope on it. Only way i would use the squares if i was zinging to the moon, but not this thing.
Alright, i am thinking about a couple grinds that look good:
One of them has two options for LSA: 110 and 112:
248/248 @.050 with .660 lift int/exh
was thinking the 112 for a 150 shot to get the most, but the 110 sais, "Pro street cam,Works well with small NOS system" and the 112 sais,"Hots street, good low end performance"
I always thought that a 112 would be better for the dope...
....the only thing that beats cubic inches is cubic dollars....
Competition Products has pretty good pricing on motor parts. - You can run 10:5 - 11:1 range with decent aluminum heads, but you'll be ahead to stay under 10:1 with iron heads. Like I said, dome pistons screw with the burn pattern thus become more prone to detonation. What you would gain from the extra compression you'll give up in having to pull timing.
Yea, competition products is where i get most of my parts, they are great on the wallet, and i just got lucky and found my new CP rag, has what i was looking for forged and 9.6 to 1 compression, i just hope that is enough to make my cam selection wok, i am going with the 110 LSA design.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw66nova
BIG blocks = BIG money
put an lsx in it and never look back!
Not really, forged rods and pistons for about 500$...lets see that LSanything do that. Not to mention, i am going to have REAL cubes for cheap.
Standard 119 cc chamber heads require a dome to even get to 9.5, once you go over that they are much more prone to detonation due to the in-efficient burn pattern created by the dome.
A dome piston in a BBC isn't as bad as a dome piston in a SBC. The canted valves and position of the spark plug isn't as restrictive in a BBC head. I run a huge dome piston to get around 13:1 compression and I wanted it higher but can't get a big enough dome. Sand down the sharp edges of the dome to allow the flame front to travel over it better is all it takes. Running a smaller combustion chamber to bump up the compression shrouds the huge valves too much. Typical larger valves in a BBC head are 2.19/1.88. My new heads have 2.300/1.88. Using standard aftermarket 24.5 heads is even better than factory heads. Small CFM aluminum heads (305-320 CFM) to feed a simple 454 are cheap. Aluminum heads also allow you to run slightly higher compression with less octane.
__________________
87 IROC-Z
All engine, no power adders! Bests: 9.348@144.71
^ I fully agree, but pump gas + stock iron heads on a BBC = issues at 10:1 or higher.
I largely agree on buying some low buck aftermarket aluminum heads now. The money you'll save in machining costs plus not going back and doing it all over again will make for money well spent.
Matt - bring that little peanut on anytime you feel froggy. I have no qualms showing you the rear bumper of my dinosaur powered ride. - LS motors do make good power, and I agree that the cathedral ports are great. That said, did you read the article hot rod did about a year back on the 402sbc vs the 402LS? Almost identical numbers, and that was leaving 23 degree stuff on the sbc. Put 18 degree or less heads on the big-bore sbc motor and watch it stop that LS. Not saying that's cost effective, just that larger bore = more hp, especially at higher rpm.
__________________ Jp Shawgo
1986 camaro - 10.5 outlaw/Outlaw 632
1989 lead sled still awating its transformation
- If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again?
A dome piston in a BBC isn't as bad as a dome piston in a SBC. The canted valves and position of the spark plug isn't as restrictive in a BBC head. I run a huge dome piston to get around 13:1 compression and I wanted it higher but can't get a big enough dome. Sand down the sharp edges of the dome to allow the flame front to travel over it better is all it takes. Running a smaller combustion chamber to bump up the compression shrouds the huge valves too much. Typical larger valves in a BBC head are 2.19/1.88. My new heads have 2.300/1.88. Using standard aftermarket 24.5 heads is even better than factory heads. Small CFM aluminum heads (305-320 CFM) to feed a simple 454 are cheap. Aluminum heads also allow you to run slightly higher compression with less octane.
Thanks for the info Stephen, i was wondering when you would chime in a bit. This motor is temporary for the 496(or better) build.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shagwell
^ I fully agree, but pump gas + stock iron heads on a BBC = issues at 10:1 or higher.
I largely agree on buying some low buck aftermarket aluminum heads now. The money you'll save in machining costs plus not going back and doing it all over again will make for money well spent.
Matt - bring that little peanut on anytime you feel froggy. I have no qualms showing you the rear bumper of my dinosaur powered ride. - LS motors do make good power, and I agree that the cathedral ports are great. That said, did you read the article hot rod did about a year back on the 402sbc vs the 402LS? Almost identical numbers, and that was leaving 23 degree stuff on the sbc. Put 18 degree or less heads on the big-bore sbc motor and watch it stop that LS. Not saying that's cost effective, just that larger bore = more hp, especially at higher rpm.
Bwahahha, thank you, so many people have not read that issue, the LS guys just dont understand.
Anyways, i have found speed pro forged units that will net me 9.6 to 1, but they are press fit, so i am going to use a forged scat rod that is a bit lesser than the scat i wanted, but still has the 7/16 bolts, so i am sure it will be fine(only one that i could find used a press fit). I hope i will have enough compression to make the cam work well, but since i am using forged rods and slugs i am all about hitting a bit over 6000 with no worries.
good to hear. im sure the bbc with a t56 is gonna be too fun on the street.
what t56 are u going with? my friend is selling his 95 t56, comes with a bunch of parts.
if u ever decide to use a 6.0 ls motor, i spent 400$ for pistons and rings for my engines. the most powerful one i have made 490 to the wheels thru m6.
pistons are pressed to stock rods. not forged. but they are enuff for me.
another person made 700+rwhp with the same pistons and a 76mm turbo. thru m6. using 60lb. inj, and ls6 intake. real good sd tune.
have u tried to get parts from www.enginekits.com
they have excellent prices on sbc and bbc. i have used there cranks, bearings, pistons. heck i get my ls pistons from them.
Matt - bring that little peanut on anytime you feel froggy. I have no qualms showing you the rear bumper of my dinosaur powered ride. - LS motors do make good power, and I agree that the cathedral ports are great. That said, did you read the article hot rod did about a year back on the 402sbc vs the 402LS? Almost identical numbers, and that was leaving 23 degree stuff on the sbc. Put 18 degree or less heads on the big-bore sbc motor and watch it stop that LS. Not saying that's cost effective, just that larger bore = more hp, especially at higher rpm.
bwahahaha, i never once said my lsx was a stout runner, and never once did i say that a pig block can't make power. all i said was they are EXPENSIVE to build...and they're detonation prone (which you've already stated) so making bigger "streetable" power is difficult. my car and your car are in two different arenas...mine has gone back to a more streetable type of situation, and yours is fully blown (no pun intended!) race car. mine is a mid 11 second daily driver and yours is an outlaw 10.5 car. now i am keeping in mind that you and your crew do everything yourself, so cost of overhead is much less than some of the other outlaw cars, but you can't say you don't have some dough tied up in the big motor...and that was all i was getting at, was the cost thing. the lsx swap stuff is expensive, i'll give you that, but the actual motor itself is very much the same as building an aluminum headed roller sbc.
For running you, I was takling about my '86 bird street car. 439ci short stroke motor and radial tires. Project is still under construction, but I'm expecting mid-low 5's in the 8th(the 96mm hanging in the rear seat area should help). Yes, still a very different car. - My "crew" is my dad and myself. I do the chassis and trans work, he builds the motors.
It'd blow your mind how little $ is in the 10.5 outlaw motor. From the buzzard to oil pan, there's roughly $8k in the blower motor. Accumulated parts and horse trades. The little 468 that's in there right now is a GM block and crank, BME aluminum rods, SRP pistons, brodix heads, all nice pieces, but much of it is again used/accumulated, maybe $4-5k in it from dominator to oil pan.
and btw, here's a new shot of it....I couldn't restrain myself from setting the blower on the little 468 when I put back in the car.
enginekits has good pricing, but it's mostly imported parts. If it's not at least machined here, I try to stay away from it. I hate to send money elsewhere.
hahaha..ahh..love to hear BBC vs. LSX fights, they never get old. to each their own, but outlaw cars typically love the lower end grunt of a blown big block. i haven't seen many LS outlaws, so I don't know where they'd start.
Matt...there's your next project...LS outlaw.
Shagwell...beautiful outlaw pic...very clean. i agree...keep away from imported.
__________________ '86 Iroc Z 9:1 358.. built th350, 3500 converter, 4.10 rear Auburn posi, Edelbrock heads, Cam Motion cam, stock suspension and Hoosier tires
Yea, we had a great LSX VS BBC debate on LS1tech, was pretty good. It was the reason i went from wanting to do a 6.0 build to a 468 Simply sealed the deal and for cheaper.
It's funny, LS motors have become the dodge of today. I say that since the arguement used-to be between loyalties to the big 3, and dodge really hadn't had anything to speak of for several years now, so I guess the LS guys took their place. - Fast is fast, I don't care whose emblem is on the front, or which mill powers it. How much of any of these cars are still factory enough to truely carry the logo anyway?
Yea, i have a bow tie on my brain, it is just cheaper to go fast in a chevy for me...ordered my TQ arm from Spohn, since i am a moderator on a couple of sites they are sponsors for, i got 10% off, they said the mild steel unit will work fine. They have to makeit first, kina makes e feel special i am not getting an off the shelf unit.
imo, a good advantage the ls motor have over the bbc, is the availabilty.
most any salvage yard will hve some kind of a ls motor laying around.
its even getting hard to find the sbc vortec engines from the 90's
last bbc i found was froma 92 dually that was tbi. now that the newer ls motors are equipped with 243, 799, and 823 heads. these are the same casting as ls6 for the cathedral and the same casting as ls3. the ls3/l92 heads flow over 330cfm out of the box, the porter i use, has the skill to grind the stock ls heads to flow around 300cfm with stock valves, and now is working on l92 ports. i think he mentioned he has l92 port flowing just under 350cfm with a stock valve. the 6.0 are limited to 375ci for the iron blocks, using the stock cranks and +.060 bore. but a aggressive hydraulic roller with worked stock heads, will have the capacity to make around 600+bhp with pump gas.
i know the bbc will always wins hands down, in cid dept.
but the lsx is coming up as well, it really doesnt take alot of $ to get a 6.0 running hard. i spent less than 1k$ for my 375ci shortblock, including machining and assembly.
well, i assembled myself, but the tools used for, included
We've got 3 or 4 more bbc blocks to go, but I likely won't build another combination using a stock block. If you spend the $ it takes to fully machine a stock block, only to have the weaknesses of a stock block, aftermarket stuff is hands-down money well spent. - Not really any difference here between the two. Have it boiled, bored, line-honed and true decked and you've wasted money.
The new MIR bbc blocks that are supposed to be released soon from CP have all the features of the Dart Big M's, but at a considerably lesser cost.
As I said before, the only thing that beats cubic inches is cubic dollars. I don't have nearly a large enough wallet to race it, so I like my rat motors.
Well, i dont know how much my machine work will be, but i assume about 450$ or so. No bad to me. Looking foreward to trying to come up with the money....
Quote:
Originally Posted by NemeSS-TyranT
imo, a good advantage the ls motor have over the bbc, is the availabilty.
Dont want to turn this into a debate, but availability? Here around my place, i took my pick. 400-600$ for a running motor complete. I cannot find a good 6.0for that very often, and it is not a direct bolt in, not to mention you need a different trans. Not cost efficient at all for a guy like myself.
LOL, man, a better radiator, aluminum heads(makes a BBC 5 lbs lighter than a all iron SBC), cnated valves old technology isnt even on the LSx, carb=BUDGET and fast as hell ither way. Not to mentin cubes an cheaper to builld.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw66nova
i think you're just running in the wrong social circles, houston tx is filled with fast lsx cars...
Really? I didnt think there were that many out there.
not a fan of the LSx based motors for the following reasons
1: bore size is relatively small (most of em anyways)
2: never have i seen motors with so much valve angle always be so slow, ofcourse slow being relative, but i'm sure you understand what i'm getting at. I don't think i know 1 person with a 15* or better headed gen 1 sbc whos car doesn't atleast run 8s, on the other hand i don't know 1 person with an LSx motor that does runs 8s (not that there aren't some that do, i just don't know them)
3: so maybe they are hot **** and it just so happens that most people make them look bad, then the few people that do make the power that those motors are supposed to make are f*cked 2 ways from Sunday because now they have to deal with 10 head studs.
how many baby cammed 10.5:1 sub-350ci 15* cylinder head gen I combos have you seen run 8's? apples to oranges here. every low angle headed SBC combo i've ever seen has been 14:1+ and big cubes with a solid roller cam with nearly .800" worth of lift ground on stupid lsa's that would make the car completely useless on the street (if it could even handle the abuse)
on another note, how many CAM ONLY sub 350ci genI small blocks have you seen run 10.2x's?
ZONE - I think you're screwed, it's already becoming a debate....
Carb vs efi has nothing to do bbc vs ls or any other motor for that matter, since we're not talking about stock ls platforms, we're talking swaps. You can efi a bbc just as easily as an ls when you're talking about swapping a motor into a car it wasn't designed for.
Overheating? Poor cooling system design/parts and a few other tune related factors contribute to that, again nothing to do with being a bbc, ls or other engine. Hell, 400ci sbc's have more cooling issues than most bbc's due to the siamese(sp?) cylinder walls, and even they are just fine if set-up properly. - The front ends of these cars doesn't promote great air-flow across the radiator, but that has little to do with overheating. Lesser airflow just means you need a larger cooling surface and/or higher cfm fans.
As for the technology, I don't really know many guys running stock 60's/70's/80's heads, cams and intakes on a performance application. The design/lay-out of the bottom end may be old, but(as in any engine) the only thing the bottom end needs to do is stay together at the power level and rpm you intended to use it. The top end makes your power and you can buy whatever(whose ever) technology you like for any engine combination. Last I checked there were still manufacturers' designing new bbc stuff everyday.
Either motor can be made strong, either motor can make great power, and either motor can be built on a limited or un-limited budget. Fast is fast. Any combustion engine will always be nothing more than an air pump. The more air you can make it pump = the more fuel you can make it burn = the more power it will make. - The larger of an air pump you start with, the easier it is to make power.
Well, i dont know how much my machine work will be, but i assume about 450$ or so. No bad to me. Looking foreward to trying to come up with the money....
Dont want to turn this into a debate, but availability? Here around my place, i took my pick. 400-600$ for a running motor complete. I cannot find a good 6.0for that very often, and it is not a direct bolt in, not to mention you need a different trans. Not cost efficient at all for a guy like myself.
i apologize for hijacking your thread.
perhaps we are opposite in opinion on availablity. but im like a ls magnet. i have real good sense of finding them. currently i own 4 6.0 engines.
i am using a th350, with a hughes flexplate that is basically a sbc 168tooth flexplate with ls crank bolt pattern, cost 120$ sfi approved.
with the 6.0 spacer, a sbc 10" tq con., it will all bolt up to a ls motor. also works with th400. so the ls will work with any trans even a 700r4.
the parts are readily available, i dont agree with tci flexplate price. 250$ and other vendors who tag premiums on ls parts, i think they are just hurting themselves, when so many people are interested in swapping them in.
how many baby cammed 10.5:1 sub-350ci 15* cylinder head gen I combos have you seen run 8's? apples to oranges here. every low angle headed SBC combo i've ever seen has been 14:1+ and big cubes with a solid roller cam with nearly .800" worth of lift ground on stupid lsa's that would make the car completely useless on the street (if it could even handle the abuse)
none, i haven't seen ANY low compression 15* or better headed gen 1 sbc, but they're not apples to oranges because we're comparing motors with the same valve angle. However i HAVE seen high compression raced out LSx motors and they're slow. You have too so no need to front, course theres a vid or 2 on youtube about some mythical creatures that make them fast but go to your track and i know you're on the same page as me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw66nova
on another note, how many CAM ONLY sub 350ci genI small blocks have you seen run 10.2x's?
Once again none, but if you want to compare a 15* headed motor to a 1950s engineered 23* headed motor then well...can't really help you there, HOWEVER, i have seen PLENTY of aftermarket 23* headed gen 1 motors with an aftermarket cam go 10.xxs so thanks for proving my point.
but you just kinda proved my point though. i was saying it can do "x" with stock cylinder heads, i was talking from a budget mind. sure set of $1800 afr eliminators can make beefy power, but have you seen what the AFR 205 ls1 heads do to a motor? they can make them straight up monsters, and still be streetable, and still get 22mpg
but you just kinda proved my point though. i was saying it can do "x" with stock cylinder heads,
they're 15* or better stock, they better make some power...so why do we not see them?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw66nova
but have you seen what the AFR 205 ls1 heads do to a motor? they can make them straight up monsters, and still be streetable, and still get 22mpg
I have actually, and we must be on different pages. First and foremost my definition of street able is pump gas and doesn't overheat, secondly a 10 second 15* headed motor on pump gas is NOT impressive and should definitely be the norm, been there done that with 23* on nuts @ 3000 lbs and it's not easy and i'll take my hat off to anybody who can do it. That being said if somebody does the same (why is it rare?) with a 15* headed motor you're going to have to go somewhere else for your hi five.
but you just kinda proved my point though. i was saying it can do "x" with stock cylinder heads, i was talking from a budget mind. sure set of $1800 afr eliminators can make beefy power, but have you seen what the AFR 205 ls1 heads do to a motor? they can make them straight up monsters, and still be streetable, and still get 22mpg
afr are not really needed but they will make excellenet power. my 375ci dd makes, 490rwhp. gets around 20mpg, and drives excellent even with a trex cam. idles good. i use oem cylinder heads, only mods to heads are .030 mill, stock valves with vj. and stock valves.
BACK ON TOPIC:
Zone, what bellhousing are u going to use for the lt1 t56?
will stock bell work with bbc? clutch, hydraulics,pedals, etc.?
will the stock t56 handle the bbc tq and hp? iirc the ls spec t56 is rated at 650bhp, but the alum. shift fork and sliders are the first thing to go the trans.
i apologize for hijacking your thread.
perhaps we are opposite in opinion on availablity. but im like a ls magnet. i have real good sense of finding them. currently i own 4 6.0 engines.
i am using a th350, with a hughes flexplate that is basically a sbc 168tooth flexplate with ls crank bolt pattern, cost 120$ sfi approved.
with the 6.0 spacer, a sbc 10" tq con., it will all bolt up to a ls motor. also works with th400. so the ls will work with any trans even a 700r4.
the parts are readily available, i dont agree with tci flexplate price. 250$ and other vendors who tag premiums on ls parts, i think they are just hurting themselves, when so many people are interested in swapping them in.
I refuse to run a automatic on the street, so yea, it is more expensive for me to find a LS T56 and clutch hardware. I will be using the stock T56 from my 95 till it breaks, then build it. Everything swaps out but i have to get a flywheel that adapts the LTx clutch setup on the BBC. Worth it though, as the T56 will make the 4.30 gears easier to live with.
Well, talked to my machinist, he said my motor will probably spin over 6000 easily, he builds and tunes on the dyno all the time, so i assume he is not BSing me. 248 @.050 and .640 lift on a 110 LSA, 9.6 to 1, ported medium size ovals and a good intake, i assumed 6300 or so, but he laughed at me. Solid roller too. Any thoughts on that?
Well, talked to my machinist, he said my motor will probably spin over 6000 easily, he builds and tunes on the dyno all the time, so i assume he is not BSing me. 248 @.050 and .640 lift on a 110 LSA, 9.6 to 1, ported medium size ovals and a good intake, i assumed 6300 or so, but he laughed at me. Solid roller too. Any thoughts on that?
i think u may have very low DCR with much duration cam, it has a lot of overlap and will bleed off alot of cylinder pressure, but the cubes will definitely pick up the slack. i would think that cam would be more suited for at least 11:1 scr. but then again it all depends on the valve events and the lobes used.
rat roaring at 8krpm, now thats some scary good sh!t
Yea, just reading the specs in my mag, the next cam above the one i selected sais 11 to 1 up CR. So we will see, i wanted to do a 112 LSA, but i thought the 110 would work better...still looking for more input.
I recommend the 112 LSA with a 108 ICA but I would also go hyd. roller (not solid roller). I wouldn't pick out the lift and duration until you see what your heads are flowing and at what lift range they peak at after the port work. For the cam range that I think you are looking at, I would bump up the compression to at least 10:1, if not a little higher. If you haven't bought the aluminum heads yet, look into some with smaller combustion chambers to get you there or mill the iron heads that you have. I still think you're going to need a custom flywheel, but after that, the t-56 swap should be fairly easy for you. Also, hooker makes a decent BBC conversion longtube header for a thirdgen.
As far as the debate...... go BBC, go LS-X (it's still all GM)!!
__________________ 1991 Z-28 (Black - Hardtop) 355ci TPI/SLP, Ported Vortec heads, Comp XR276HR-12, Hooker 2210 Longtubes / custom 3" Y-pipe with 3 1/2" mufflex cat-back, Borg Warner T-56, PROM tuned by me!, 3.73's, Hotchkis suspension, custom high-flow lid and ram-air, ALL the bolt-ons, custom Boyd Coddington "1bad91Z" Billet Wheels.
Yea, the flywheel is the only thing i need unless i wanted to buy the bellhousing adapter plate to retain the T5 clutch setup, then a LS1 input shaft...so it is easier to use the custom flywheel. Heads are going to flow good enough, they allways do with big blocks. It is simply cheaper to go solid roller, so that s one of the reasons i am. The hookers are twice the price of the patriot headers and a PITa to install.
I don't think a 248 @ .050 cam in a bbc is going to be making much power over 6k. It may turn it, but would be like turning a TPI 6k.
The larger the duration and more overlap(numerically lower lobe seperation), the more static compression you can get by with due to the "bleed" off. That said, I wouldn't spec a cam for much more than 6k rpm for a BBC with stock oval ports, even if they were ridiculously ported out.
If you're going to run a solid roller on the street you'll need to make sure the lifters you use have direct oiling for the roller. If not, you'll kill them in very short time.
__________________ Jp Shawgo
1986 camaro - 10.5 outlaw/Outlaw 632
1989 lead sled still awating its transformation
- If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again?
I'd probably stick with 110ls for a NA motor. 110 will still have enough vaccum for power brakes, but will also create a nice lope and let you have a little more timing on pump gas.
Personally I'd call Comp and have them spec me a cam for what I intend on doing with the car. They should also be able to give you an idea of a suitable compression ratio to run with it. - Don't get to worried about trying to make it turn higher rpm. A street car won't spend nearly as much time at higher rpm as it will lower, and the low-end torque of a bbc is fun.
Well, i expect it to go to 6000, and i am sure it will go a bit higher. But i will be hitting it with a 150 shot. I will call them, but i did see a comp XE solid roller i liked.
Well, i expect it to go to 6000, and i am sure it will go a bit higher. But i will be hitting it with a 150 shot. I will call them, but i did see a comp XE solid roller i liked.
n2o doesn't make the cam grow. Peak power rpm won't change much, if any on the spray. - A cam designed to peak around 6-6200 shouldn't noticeably sacrifice any useable bottom end. For the little extra it costs you might think hard about a custom grind. Most off-the-shelf solid rollers are designed for racing thus the lobe profiles and ramp rates aren't very optimised for a street motor.
Simply sealed the deal and for cheaper. 
(from tpi lol)
