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Its not the knock sensor? usually there is a table that will pull timing based on if the knock sensor starts to sense any knock levels. It may not show a knock count but it will pull timing because its there to prevent serious knock. it picks up stuff you cant hear.
I'd take that table and lower the values so its only able to pull out 2-3 degrees timing.
But only do that after you play with the air fuel and total timing. If the motor only wants 30 degrees, then thats all you can run. But my guess is it should like more timing than that. Get the air fuel in the 12.8 to 1 range and it should be ok for most timing requirements up to 36 degrees.
Also make sure you run some decent gas, 93 octane helps to ensure you have no detonation
Its not the knock sensor? usually there is a table that will pull timing based on if the knock sensor starts to sense any knock levels. It may not show a knock count but it will pull timing because its there to prevent serious knock. it picks up stuff you cant hear.
I'd take that table and lower the values so its only able to pull out 2-3 degrees timing.
But only do that after you play with the air fuel and total timing. If the motor only wants 30 degrees, then thats all you can run. But my guess is it should like more timing than that. Get the air fuel in the 12.8 to 1 range and it should be ok for most timing requirements up to 36 degrees.
Also make sure you run some decent gas, 93 octane helps to ensure you have no detonation
knock sensor is NOT pulling any timing........im lost this car is making me so angry i have no initiative to work on it.
im gonna try one last thing and thats a 3 wire heated 13077 bosch o2 sensor. Supposedly long tubes and 1 wire o2 sensors dont mix and make motor thinks its richer than it really is. Right now at wot it is anywhere from 11.8 to 12.3, YES really rich....so you think. There is no black smoke from the pipes under acceleration and the car will not restart hot. Its not the ign module due to everything is brand new minus the Lt1 injectors.
If someone wants to fix the car im willing to pay....im not kidding at ALL!!!!
sounds like you need a better tune. O2 sensor wont help at WOT but can help at cruise/idle.
Restarting on hot coolant is a problem if its running too rich. You will want to lean the startup enrichment tables down some in the hot coolant temp ranges
sounds like you need a better tune. O2 sensor wont help at WOT but can help at cruise/idle.
Restarting on hot coolant is a problem if its running too rich. You will want to lean the startup enrichment tables down some in the hot coolant temp ranges
well i found out the injectors were ohm'ing out correct hot or not but they wernt firing hot. Today i finally found a niod light kit and tested car when hot and didnt fire. The noid light showed the ecm is trying to fire the injector but the injectors are not firing or stuck.
So im ordering a set of injectors from southbay injectors...hope they are fast with shipping
friend added some timing to the timing map and car loved it. The 327 ran best at 34* back when it was carb'd. Tpi should run better being more precise fuel injection.
As a quick test to see if an injector is working, you can always give it 12v and a ground and listen to it click.
When I was getting my GTA going, the LT1 that went in hadn't been fired in nearly 7 years (I discovered this after I bought it)
Every injector except #7 was stuck and not responding. Good thing I had a spare set of Ford SVO 24# Injectors. I swapped them in and wala. The engine fired.
As a quick test to see if an injector is working, you can always give it 12v and a ground and listen to it click.
When I was getting my GTA going, the LT1 that went in hadn't been fired in nearly 7 years (I discovered this after I bought it)
Every injector except #7 was stuck and not responding. Good thing I had a spare set of Ford SVO 24# Injectors. I swapped them in and wala. The engine fired.
i rigged a push button setup with a old injector harness plug and tried applying 12 volts and they dont make the same click that they do cold.
Im buying a set of 24lb Ford motor sport racing injectors
i'm not sure if that would be the reason its pulling timing tho?
turned out im a noob to the lame TPI computer tuning from GM stock. the timing map is setup only to ramp to 29.9 degrees of advance. I cut my teeth on LT1's and tuning them and they have 43 degrees of advance and its progressive. The L98 map is retardedly low so owners could run 87 octance it seems. I had a friend and TGO member 1MeanZ bump my timing chart up to max of 31* and motor was much happier
__________________ --1991 trans am--SOLD
--1989 formula--bought for parts and junked
--1985 TRANS AM--JUNKED
--1983 firebird--RUSTED OUT
one day ill own a camaro and keep it.......i dont like firebirds lol