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I'm going to a TH400 and was thinking of doing a manual valve body but i see some of them come with trans brake options and i thought...hmm thats not a bad idea.
I can use my two step limiter if i wanted and build massive boost off the line and should really cut good 60's. More so than just foot braking the thing. But my turbos arent huge and should build boost pretty quickly regardless.
But i'm worried that a trans brake and full manual valve body may not be a good idea on a street/strip car. I hear it will make the trans run pretty hot and even tho i plan on using a big cooler, i am afraid it may not be enough. I dont drive the car much but i dont wanna cook the trans
I never used a trans brake and was wondering whats all involved in setting it up?
Would it be worth the trouble?
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transbrakes usually add 10 degrees of fluid temp for every second you're sitting on them. So usually you don't sit on the two step/TB until the bulbs are already dropping. Now for street driving, you are stuck shifting it always so this may or may not be a problem for you. Other than that they're great, I'm still in footbrake land at the start of this season, but I have a spare trans waiting for a TB if I decide to want more consistancy. Luckily I'm not a bracket racer.
__________________ my car thats never done
"I'd rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6"
First Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '05, Second Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '06, Best Modified Camaro Thirdgenfest '07 , Second Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '08
MFBA March 2008 Featured Calendar Vehicle
Yeah i'm not a bracket guy either, i'm just looking to get good 60 foots like the old nitrous combo. Those 1.4's felt amazing and i want to match that atleast. I figure a trans brake will definately give me the boosted power off the line and i should do well in the 60.
Transbrakes wont affect anything in the trans for street driving, temp or durability wise. I'm on my 5th year, with my tbraked.reverse manual valve body TH400.
Like Steve said, in N/A applications, dont be a fack'n idiot and go on the transbrake as soon as you light your stage lights, it's just stupid since if i race guys like this, i dont even both bumping into the lights, i just let them burn up their convertor/tranny. I'll wait until i see the first set of ambers come on before matting it since i've seen the tree not come down and have to get reset far to many times.
with your turbo though, i would just T&T it and see how long it takes to reach max boost and hopefully it can be done in in 3 lights, if not then you'll just have to judge and know when to get on the convertor...but the longer your on it, the hotter things get. Shifting on the street, initally i thought i'd hate it, but the reality of it, it's a 3 speed, it's a toy car so i can handle it...if it was a daily driver...well..i would'nt be considering a tbrake/manual valve body LOL!!
I went kinda small on the A/R on the turbine side since i thought i'd be running a stick shift 383 car but now have an auto 400 dart block.
Sounds like i may go with the full manual. I think the trans has a street/strip type valve body in which you can hold it in gear or just keep it full auto. I may swap that out. I dont mind shiftin on the street since i wanted a stick shift anyway. And its not a daily driver... but I do want to drive it as much as i can
I went kinda small on the A/R on the turbine side since i thought i'd be running a stick shift 383 car but now have an auto 400 dart block.
Sounds like i may go with the full manual. I think the trans has a street/strip type valve body in which you can hold it in gear or just keep it full auto. I may swap that out. I dont mind shiftin on the street since i wanted a stick shift anyway. And its not a daily driver... but I do want to drive it as much as i can
Just know if you go with a TH400, transbrake, reverse pattern manual valve body when you down shift, it will not compression brake like what your used to, it's like down shifting in a stick car...with no compression braking...so it does'nt not "straighten itself out" if you get into trouble and let off the gas...you just need to modify your driving style 180 from what you've grown up doing....it scared the sheeot outta me the first time i let out to regain control and car kept coming around
As soon as your stage light is on you should push the transbrake button but don't got to WOT until both stage lights are lit. Holding the transbrake button down only draws amperage. Heat isn't built up until the tranny is under load.
As soon as both stage lights are on, go to WOT and when you see the last yellow come on, let go of the button.
I have it even easier. I use a delay box and a starting line enhancer. Just before I hit the prestage light, I push what's called a bump button on the delay box. With the use of a CO2 cylinder, the throttle pedal falls to the floor and I roll forward at an idle to light the prestage and stage lights. As soon as I'm staged, I push the transbrake button, my foot is to the floor at an idle and I wait for the top yellow light to come on. My opponent can take as long as he wants to stage. I'm ready to go and still sitting at an idle.
As soon as both stage lights are lit, I concentrate on the top yellow bulb. As soon as I see a flicker of light, I let go of the transbrake button. The CO2 cylinder activates and the throttle goes to WOT while I sit and wait for the delay box to release the transbrake. I'm only up on the converter for a second before the car launches so it never builds up heat in the tranny oil and doesn't bounce off the rev limiter for a great length of time. Although my converter stalls at 6000, I usually launch between 4500 and 5000 rpm.
The transbrake will allow you to launch up to the torque converter's stall speed and can be controlled for lower rpms with a 2-step. This can bring the engine rpm up to peak torque for launch. Installing a transbrake requires stripping down the transmission to do internal modifications.
__________________
87 IROC-Z
All engine, no power adders! Bests: 9.348@144.71
I wonder how much install would be, since the trans has been rebuilt and beefed up already.
I dont think i'm gonna run alot of converter. Somewhere around 3200 is where i'd like to be since this motor wont be turning over 6000-6200. It should peak in the 5800 rpm range. I wonder if a trans brake would even be worth it on there if i could brake stall it to 2400-2500 instead of leaving it on the brake at 2800-3000. I guess it could really help regardless
Quote:
Just know if you go with a TH400, transbrake, reverse pattern manual valve body when you down shift, it will not compression brake like what your used to, it's like down shifting in a stick car...with no compression braking...so it does'nt not "straighten itself out" if you get into trouble and let off the gas...you just need to modify your driving style 180 from what you've grown up doing....it scared the sheeot outta me the first time i let out to regain control and car kept coming around
wow, how does that work? I didnt know that, thanks for that information. I gotta watch out for that.
I wonder how much install would be, since the trans has been rebuilt and beefed up already.
I dont think i'm gonna run alot of converter. Somewhere around 3200 is where i'd like to be since this motor wont be turning over 6000-6200. It should peak in the 5800 rpm range. I wonder if a trans brake would even be worth it on there if i could brake stall it to 2400-2500 instead of leaving it on the brake at 2800-3000. I guess it could really help regardless
wow, how does that work? I didnt know that, thanks for that information. I gotta watch out for that.
I wonder how much install would be, since the trans has been rebuilt and beefed up already.
I dont think i'm gonna run alot of converter. Somewhere around 3200 is where i'd like to be since this motor wont be turning over 6000-6200. It should peak in the 5800 rpm range. I wonder if a trans brake would even be worth it on there if i could brake stall it to 2400-2500 instead of leaving it on the brake at 2800-3000. I guess it could really help regardless
wow, how does that work? I didnt know that, thanks for that information. I gotta watch out for that.
Ditto on the engine brake Justin, some offer engine brake at additional cost, not sure if for the 400 though... So now when at the end of a run you let off gas and engine helps slow car, you will no longer have that, it just freewheels, so you can slam it into first at 130mph and you will still be at just over idle.. That is why you see some saying (I run 9's with factory v6 brakes and have no issues), while other like me have to really get their foot into it, it will let you know how good your brakes are....
It does become a pita on the street, I hated it.. However I now run a spool in my firebird on the street which is also a huge pita... Tradeoffs for a street/strip car.. You will love the transbrake though, and deffinetly needed for turbo car imo.. As said above, they build heat like any typ of friction does, but only when using, some race cars don't even run a cooler at all, just a bypass line. So nothing you can't live with, especially with a good cooler.
Engine braking is actually bad for an engine on the dragstrip. When you cross the finish line at 100+ mph and let off the throttle, engine braking is harder on rods, bearings, rod bolts etc than it is going down the track under power.
The only automatic transmission you should pop into neutral at the finish is a powerglide. Bad things can happen to a TH350 and TH400 if they're neutraled. That's why most of the racing valve bodies have no engine braking.
The transbrake I had in my old TH400 only had engine braking in low gear.
Tranbrake launches are the best. You can't get that shot out a cannon feeling with a footbrake. Watch some of my online, in car videos of a transbrake launch. RPM comes up then less than a second later, boom, I'm off.
This one is probably the best since I did an overlay insertion of the tach so you could see what it's doing during a run.
If you're going manual valvebody, always go ahead and get a reverse manual with a brake. Get the tb because you'll want it, rev manual because 1st is a lot closer when you just need to move the car around.
Although most say "no downshifting" it does not mean that you can't down shift, just simply that you won't have engine braking. With no engine braking, if you jump on the gas and downshift from 3-2, with a th400 you'll kill the sprag. The key is to downshift and then roll into the throttle until the engine speed reaches the output speed for the gear selected(until it's loaded); this is only something you will need to know/do if rolling up to a light that goes green or you're playing around.
Depending on how your turbo(s) spools, you may want to brake boost while in the pre-stage beams, and build boost till it starts to push through the brakes, thus activating the stage lights, at at which point you push the t-brake button, activating it and the 2-step. There are other ways to do it, but that seems to be the most comon. With a smaller street oriented turbo, you probably won't need that much resistance/time to build boost, so you may be able to simply roll in the stage beams and go up against the brake/2-step.
The t-brake does not build fluid heat in the trans. Sitting against the brake on a loaded converter causes the converter to build heat in the fluid.
I firmly believe in "flash stalling" the converter. I have always netted my best 60fts this way. I have a launch controller(7AL-3 box, but same as added on 2-step), with usually around a 3k chip(5500 converter). I roll into the stage beams, activate the t-brake and roll down on the pedal just enough to hit the chip, when the last yellow activates I floor it and let go of the button. If you go the floor with a carb motor against the brake you no longer have a pump shot to help the initial "hit" to move the car. With mechanical injection, the longer you sit with the rpm limited(ignition limited or converter limited) at WOT, the more fuel you dump that is not being burned effectively. - With an injected motor or a especially the blower motor, I leave just barely off idle and "flash" the converter. I use an air servo, when I stage, I hit the t-brake and go to the floor, the servo extends, only moving the throttle a very slight amount. When I let go of the t-brake, instant WOT. I have done a lot of chassis and engine tuning and have never gotten as good of a 60' going up against the converter as I do flashing it. - All that said, a turbo motor will preffer(almost require) going up against the converter to get it spooled, but when you cut it loose, the turbo creates considerably more power than normal, thus the converter will still "flash".
__________________ Jp Shawgo
1986 camaro - 10.5 outlaw/Outlaw 632
1989 lead sled still awating its transformation
- If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again?
So about the engine braking thing... this is gonna take some getting used to
Couple scenarios here. What if i'm cruising in 3rd and want to drop down to 2nd to make a quick pass? I probly wont need to since i should have the power to go in 3rd regardless, but say i want to go to 2nd. I just let off the gas, hit the shifter to 2nd gear and then roll into it till it catches and goes?
Stop light. Do i just go to a complete stop and then downshift into first? Or do i have to shift to first while i'm slow rolling to a stop? Or either or?
So about the engine braking thing... this is gonna take some getting used to
Couple scenarios here. What if i'm cruising in 3rd and want to drop down to 2nd to make a quick pass? I probly wont need to since i should have the power to go in 3rd regardless, but say i want to go to 2nd. I just let off the gas, hit the shifter to 2nd gear and then roll into it till it catches and goes?
Stop light. Do i just go to a complete stop and then downshift into first? Or do i have to shift to first while i'm slow rolling to a stop? Or either or?
You can up/down shift however you want to, just know when downshifting, let off the gas first since all the engine will do if you keep the accelerator in the exact position is raise rpm's but car will start to decelerate since it's almost like being in neutral.
So when i want to go from 3rd to 2nd for a quick pass on the hwy, I now have a feel for speed/rpm it takes for it to recover, but i'll let off the gas, drop it down a gear, and then bring the revs up..not floor boarded since i dont need to but i'll bring them up quickly enough so it does'nt shock the convertor, but as soon as i feel tension, THEN i nail it.
For all practical purposes, think of the downshift like neutral dropping. The 2nd gear sprag in these 400's go out, it's just a design flaw so they need upgraded, regardless, when you mash on it from essentially an idle, it puts all that inital shock on the tangs of the sprag and it'll start wanting to break them.
It's not bad, not complicated, and once you put it in and go down the road for a nice 30minute to an hour drive you'll see what we're talking about, it's just a matter of changing your driving habit's since it's nothing like the DD your used to flogging on....no different than a persons first "real" engine, just takes a little to adjust your style to it....but it'll be the best thing you can do for yourself....and once you have a Tbrake, you'll never want to go back to footbraking...it just does'nt force you in the seat the same way, do some back to backs at the track one you get your junk running right and you'll see what i mean. Tbrake it a bunch, then footbrake it...the launch is so much better off the button
....and once you have a Tbrake, you'll never want to go back to footbraking...it just does'nt force you in the seat the same way, do some back to backs at the track one you get your junk running right and you'll see what i mean. Tbrake it a bunch, then footbrake it...the launch is so much better off the button
With the blower motor, I leave at around 1800-2000rpm, just elevated enough off idle to smooth out(out of blower surge). When I let go of the t-brake, the actuator snaps to WOT. With the old car we had consistent 1.20 60' @ 77mph, and we never got a chance to really dial the suspension in. - If you even think you let go of the button you're already 100' out. There is no rush like it.
...damb it, now I'm starting to jones.....I need my crack pipe!
Thanks guys... i got a feeling if this setup makes good boost off the line, it will do 1.3x's fairly easily and i'll be missing 1-2 shifts The nitrous car doing 1.4's was hard enough to shift manually... before you know it, you need to shift
Thanks guys... i got a feeling if this setup makes good boost off the line, it will do 1.3x's fairly easily and i'll be missing 1-2 shifts The nitrous car doing 1.4's was hard enough to shift manually... before you know it, you need to shift
When we first set the old car up, I had the t-brake button on the shifter. When you let go, you were in second(not purposely). I moved it to beside the shifter so that you could let go, then reaach for. I then switched to a rachet shifter and put it back on the handle. Before rolling in to stage, I would put it in neutral(reverse manual valvebody), click it back to low and hold it; not letting it snap back to center. Then you just let go of the button and the shifter in one motion, and it was ready to grab 2nd.
yeah where are you guys putting the buttons for your t brake? i thought about the shift handle or steering wheel
i like mine in the wheel since it uses a large major muscle for the release, for me it's quicker and has proven to be a more consistant position. I've run a number of cars with them mounted on a steel bracket along side the seat, that's fine too, but i'm slower on the light that way...so just play around and see what works best for you.
Couple things to remember:
make your button mount SOLID, any flex/give in the mount will taint you true release time since the loose/flimsey bracket is springing along with the button itself.
You can speed up/slow down your reaction times a touch with thumb placement and pressure. On days when i'm groggey/slow i used the bottom of my thumb joint since there is no meat in that area, so there is less cushion to expand on my release. On day's i'm a little too fast, i'll use my thumb print area to press the button since it's meaty there is a cushion that slows it down a bit.
Also when i'm fast, I put ALOT of pressure on the button, until thumb turns white so i have to overcome my own resistance for that split second before the release of the button actually happens. On day's i'm slow i use light pressure.
All comes down to learning your car, yourself, and experimenting to see what works best to stay in the .010-.015 window. Anything faster and your asking for a red eye, anything slower guaruntee's a trip home pre mature.
yeah where are you guys putting the buttons for your t brake? i thought about the shift handle or steering wheel
In the Camaro, I had mine on console just ahead of shifter to right a little so it was easy transition, I was scared to put on the shifter in fear of hitting while in motion. The Vega has it on the steering wheel and I hate it, especially being many T-Brake bodies require you to hold in T-Brake button to use reverse, so tyring to steer and hold in button on wheel is a serious pita!!!! Also being my 1-2 shift comes real quick in the vega, you have little time to let go of button and get on shifter.. I really liked the console mount on camaro.... My V/B uses neutral or reverse for actual reverse as long as button is in...
In the Camaro, I had mine on console just ahead of shifter to right a little so it was easy transition, I was scared to put on the shifter in fear of hitting while in motion. The Vega has it on the steering wheel and I hate it, especially being many T-Brake bodies require you to hold in T-Brake button to use reverse, so tyring to steer and hold in button on wheel is a serious pita!!!! Also being my 1-2 shift comes real quick in the vega, you have little time to let go of button and get on shifter.. I really liked the console mount on camaro.... My V/B uses neutral or reverse for actual reverse as long as button is in...
Our S10 with the glide is the same way with reverse, it's retarded trying to back up, hold the button and turn at the same time...easy fix: i installed a toggle switch for reverse application. i wanna back up, flip the switch, back up/turn whatever, shut the switch off, put it into 1st and go...easy as pie.
So long as a person does'nt use those ridiculous shifters with a 10 speed brake handle on them, that 1.X second you have from button release to pulling 2nd gear in a 3 speed is no sweat since your arm is on the way back and down anyhow....but it cannot be done effiecently with the bicylce handle shifters why guys buy those i have no idea, I knew the first car i raced for a buddy that had that POS hurst quarter stick i would never own one, having a split second to get your hand between the bicycle brake lever and shifter handle....i pulled 3rd gear more than one occasion in multiple cars with that POS set up....if you cant tell, i hate them with a passion, most ridiculous design for a manual shifter i've ever seen....now my pro ratchet, there is nothing to get screwed up ever..impossible actually, you can never skid a gear and all you have to do is slap it anyway you can
what shifters do you guys use or prefer? I'll have to find a good place for the button since i dont wanna be looking for the shifter coming off the line that hard.
what shifters do you guys use or prefer? I'll have to find a good place for the button since i dont wanna be looking for the shifter coming off the line that hard.
In my Camaro I used a B&M pro stick I think it was, I liked it alot, very easy, simple and effective I though, had a trigger grip or bicycle handle for 2-3 and reverse lock-out all that I made work in factory console pretty easily, The Vega has some TCI one that I really do not like at all, being it has a T-handle you have to pull up for 2-3 shift, that is just not a natural thing, The pro-stick you just pull from the trigger straight back, it was very easy, and no issues at 9.5et.. I hate ratchet shifter personally.. Also I had the B&M gate kit in the TA, which I also loved once adjusted properly, really cool, it uses the factory shifter and you just rivet a gate to inside and utilizes your stock button to unlock rev/3rd..
screw holding that button to back up. i HATED that We wired my old car with pro brake into the backup light circuit ..no holding button down to back up
turbo+brake=awesome.
if you went too big on turbine side,or not enough convertor, try retarding the balls out of it, itll make a ton of exhaust heat and cause it to spool a little quicker, just wire it in on your brake/2step circuit with a timing retard (or your box if you have that function)
as far as the downshifting goes, i know plenty of folks playing around with big single turbos, 3.08 gears, 28-29 in tires.lol.
WITH POWERGLIDES!!
they love to be loaded, and get downright scary in passing situations,etc. leaving them in high gear! I wouldn't think you would hurt anything if you wanted to grab second in a situation, but i seriously doubt you will need to, and depending on what gear you are using, it might pull harder without doing so!
for the button i like snap cord wired to steeringwheel mounted switch. playing with the practice tree, i am faster holding the button FIRMLY with my thumb (the side/to tip area) only with a stiff hand, then snatching my whole hand away, ( i agree with IHI on this one!!) its funny how much difference this makes, a few of my buddies and i played around for house and tried every position possible.
just be careful when you turn on to the return road and dont bump it accidently if you wheel mount it.
i had a nitrous kit once on an old 28 ford death trap rat rod that was button activated only(our WOT switch had crapped out first pass, so i was using the button just to leave, and only stay in it if it was close or if we were losing) My buddies got a big kick out of watching me in the pits after a six second 1/8 mile pass in that deathtrap.When I would be maneuvering back between the trailer and turning the hell out of the wheel and accidently "purge" 200 thru the motor, in gear while parking.
lol
i went back and rear a few of your threads ORR, your car should rock!
yeah where are you guys putting the buttons for your t brake? i thought about the shift handle or steering wheel
FWIW, DONT use the button on the shifter knobs. They're great for line locks since there's barely any current/amperage going through them, and the light spring pressure they have is fine for LL's but far far to soft to use in any competition racing for transbrake useage...it just is'nt snappey enough consistantly enough to ensure rock solid R/T's time and again, year after year.
I watched 2 buddies struggle with R/T's until i found out they just bought the B&M knobs with intergrated buttons, so i suggested trying a standard button red button....even the blue buttons have a lighter spring rate (like the buttons they sell for N2O then the red button) so they tried it and boom, they got very consistant very quickly...just figured i'd throw that out there so you dont fight it and wonder WTF your doing wrong.
Like i said this is primarily a street/strip car and i dont bracket race, so i'm not to concerned with R/T's at this moment. But its nice to cut good lights regardless. I"m just trying to make sure this car leaves the line well and i figured the trans brake would be a good idea with the turbo to build some boost and get me back in the 1.4x 60 foot range atleast
Last question i guess is what trans brake kit should i get? Do all of them require holding the button down for reverse?
"sportsman" brake slower reaction (ok if you are bracket racing, just adjust time release thumb earlier or take delay out of box)
"pro brake" every one i have seen is the activate solenoid to reverse kind(release faster, better for street racing, pro tree headsup stuff.)
I purchased an adjustable Moroso transbrake button and mounted it in the steering wheel. I have the adjustment set on hair trigger but can adjust my reaction time with the delay box. The adjustable button also allows you to adjust your reaction time.
Having the button in the steering wheel and having to back up with the transbrake engaged is a pain. Not all valve bodies do this but most do. I tried the toggle switch idea but didn't like it. Ended up just wiring it through the reverse switch. Pushing the button to back up will work in reverse and neutral. That saves you the problems of going through the reverse interlock to back up which with some shifters is not a quick and easy task. Just push the shifter into neutral, push the button and back up.
Using a good delay box, there's no chance of accidentally activating the transbrake while going down the track. The transbrake circuit goes through the delay box and there's a timer built in. Once the transbrake is released, I think I have it set for 20-30 seconds before it can be engaged again. I should be on the return road by that time. A big enough number to allow time to get off the track, a small enough number in case it's accidentally pushed between the water box and starting line that it can reset before staging.
I use a Pro Ratchet shifter. It always sits in the same position from park to first gear. I didn't like the Megashifter. When in gears, it was always in the same position but when put in park, it had to be pushed all the way forward. I found this awkward. I now have the shift knob with a button for the line lock. Last year I had it on the dash and was doing high gear burnouts. As soon as I let the button go, I would roll out of the water box making it hard to shift while still in the water. I have the power to do a high gear burnout but occasionally it would bog until the tires started spinning.
Like i said this is primarily a street/strip car and i dont bracket race, so i'm not to concerned with R/T's at this moment. But its nice to cut good lights regardless. I"m just trying to make sure this car leaves the line well and i figured the trans brake would be a good idea with the turbo to build some boost and get me back in the 1.4x 60 foot range atleast
Last question i guess is what trans brake kit should i get? Do all of them require holding the button down for reverse?
I can only speak on the trannies i've run:
TH350- nothing different than putting in reverse and going
TH400- " "
C4- " "
Powerglide- only tranny i've ever had to activate transbrake to back up, and yes, it's a huge PITA, hence the toggle switch i wired in, or the micro switch on the reverse circuit as mentioned above as well.
You'll be glad you put the brake in, it will happen soon or later, so at least your taking care of it now vs later.
I personally only have expereince with the JW valve body with transbrake and thus far, 4 years later it's still working perfectly, and that's racing minimum 3 weekends a month and averaging 5-7 rounds per race per day, so the cycling is quite a bit.
I know i hear guys talk about getting a Griner t brake, but they're speeendy and honestly i've never heard of one guy having any better luck with that then any other brand. Dont bother with a Sportsman brake, just get the pro brake and be done. Supposedly the sportsman brake is a touch slower...again, never seen any A-B testing to say how much if any, but look at it this way...you can always slow down a Pro brake, but you can never speed up a Sportsman brake- nuff said
Both our BTE valvebodies have reverse, while the one that's currently in the car(no idea of brand) is a pro-tree/no rev valvebody. I hate that thing with a passion with a manual rack and 3rd gen spindles. - I have not noticed it to be any faster than the BTE's. When I put the blower motor in I will be running a Griner brake. My dad had one years ago and they are very nice.
Even with rev in the BTE vb's, I use the button to back-up after the burn out(shifter in neutral). Makes it easy to just let go and whack it if it tries to load up. It's nice to have an actual rev when manuvering around the pits though, and i damb sure would want it in something I street drove at all.
Cheetah/scs shifter with air solenoid in the outlaw car, and my radial car will have a pro ratchet mounted beside my left but cheek with a link rod going to a rocker pedal.
__________________ Jp Shawgo
1986 camaro - 10.5 outlaw/Outlaw 632
1989 lead sled still awating its transformation
- If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again?
I'll have to shop around. I think having the hold the button down to go in reverse would suck and get annoying real fast. I do plan to drive the car alot but we'll see how it goes.
I've read some things about the 2-3 shift needing to pull the lockout lever/bike brake lever to move to 3rd? Is that common?
I'll have to shop around. I think having the hold the button down to go in reverse would suck and get annoying real fast. I do plan to drive the car alot but we'll see how it goes.
I've read some things about the 2-3 shift needing to pull the lockout lever/bike brake lever to move to 3rd? Is that common?
That's the way all the goofy shifters are with bicylce handles...too easy to go from 1st to third when your in the heat of the moment.
The pro-stick and the quarter stick are that way. The SCS has no lock-out lever for the forward gears, but it has an offset gate pattern. - Personally, I like a pro-rachet.
A little research on both the valvebody and the shifter will tell you what you need to know, just get one that will suit your driving style.
14psi, street tune 
, Second Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '08
why guys buy those i have no idea, I knew the first car i raced for a buddy that had that POS hurst quarter stick i would never own one, having a split second to get your hand between the bicycle brake lever and shifter handle....i pulled 3rd gear more than one occasion in multiple cars with that POS set up....if you cant tell, i hate them with a passion, most ridiculous design for a manual shifter i've ever seen....now my pro ratchet, there is nothing to get screwed up ever..impossible actually, you can never skid a gear and all you have to do is slap it anyway you can
