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you were doing it wrong.
its typically not cheap to build a 10 second n/a engine and hitting it with a 150 shot to go 9's. much better idea to build an 11 second n/a motor and hit it with a 200-225 shot to go 9's.
much better idea simple 2 stage kit on a mid lower 11 second motor will easily go 9's. Or do a straight shot if you can hook it
But high 10's n/a isnt all that difficult for a LSx thirdgen. Just needs right cam/intake/heads and it should make 450whp and get near high 10's. 450 on LS1 with heads/cam seems to be the average. ALot of guys doing 470's
250 shot on stock pistons diggler? :O that'll last!
i'm kinda with orr89rocz here, cam intake heads, id add a holley 850 (if u can tune em), a good mechanical fuel pump, tires, a good converter & trans, if you go th400 you WILL need a crossmember/ torque arm kit, driveshaft loop, and a way to make it STOP! don't forget the little things like wheel bearings. the rear probably won't last long if you hook hard.you could throw one of those braced covers on it. how many miles on that block? better throw rings & bearings in it. hope you'll be doin all this yourself!
i think if you shop the hell outa ebay, score some "buddy" prices, and plead to the members of the board,,,,,, you might have a chance.
reliable is in the eye of the beholder
Eric B
__________________ 86 camaro, 1984 383, pro topline vortecs with all comp.components,stainless valves, scat crank,wiseco forged pistons,9.5:1,6"scat I beam 7/16" capscrew rods,comp xs282s, performer rpm, 750 proform vac sec, msd in cap coil/module, no computer,hooker coated 2460's w 6767 y pipe,AJE K-member & a arms, coil over kyb agx,700r4,pioneer shift kit,corvette servo,2600 stall,'92 disk 10 bolt,
3.42 posi, poly suspension , hotchkiss lca's,275-60/15 mt et street radials on 8" weld pro stars
you were doing it wrong.
its typically not cheap to build a 10 second n/a engine and hitting it with a 150 shot to go 9's. much better idea to build an 11 second n/a motor and hit it with a 200-225 shot to go 9's.
Can you elaborate? Why is it better?
My car is running 11.40 @ 123 N/A (still working the bugs out) but I want to get it into the 10's before it spray it.
Can you elaborate? Why is it better?
My car is running 11.40 @ 123 N/A (still working the bugs out) but I want to get it into the 10's before it spray it.
why do you want to get into the 10's on motor before the bottle? are you looking to run in the 8's once you spray it?
my car runs in the 11.0's and i hope to be running 9.50's once i take it to the 1/4 track again.
are you looking to run in the 8's once you spray it?
Humm..... I hadn't thought that far ahead. The motor was built to be a mid 10 second motor (w/ all the other parts working in that direction) So Yeah I kinda want to make sure it will do mid 10's on the motor, (call it a personal goal).
BTW, we're running a TPIS Mini Ram w/ 60lb injectors.
I am going for an NHRA legal, 9 second capable, 10 sec detuned bracket racer.
I've got $3,750 left, what do I spend it on?
Let the clowning begin....
James
bracket car and a one time wonder are completly differant. I dought it could be done if every part was purchased used. Although used parts don't bring much. Good luck on your mission. HELLO EBAY
Humm..... I hadn't thought that far ahead. The motor was built to be a mid 10 second motor (w/ all the other parts working in that direction) So Yeah I kinda want to make sure it will do mid 10's on the motor, (call it a personal goal).
BTW, we're running a TPIS Mini Ram w/ 60lb injectors.
Bet it's not TPI. I tried pissing with the injection, several years ago. Takes entirely too much time to get the tune right imho. Weather affects it the same as a carburated engine if you're running gas. It's tuff enough to get a carb tunned right.
Bet it's not TPI. I tried pissing with the injection, several years ago. Takes entirely too much time to get the tune right imho. Weather affects it the same as a carburated engine if you're running gas. It's tuff enough to get a carb tunned right.
i do not agree there. i am not running the tpi intake, but there was a guy that went low 9's with a stock shortblock, tpi intake, and twin turbo's.
i am running a single plane converted to FI. its being controlled by a megasquirt DIY kit i assembled myself. tuning-wise, i dont usually have to touch it once its setup on a dyno. the map, iat, coolant temp, and wideband 02 sensors adjust the tune slightly for the different weather.
Bet it's not TPI. I tried pissing with the injection, several years ago. Takes entirely too much time to get the tune right imho. Weather affects it the same as a carburated engine if you're running gas. It's tuff enough to get a carb tunned right.
Here's someone that didn't give up, and probably why turbo & drag racing is what it is today www.moranmotorsports.com/
You could easily build a sprayed cast iron small block that does 10's, but the problem is your $4,000 is going all into the motor. If you look around enough you can find the bottom end for just over a grand that will support the power you need, you can build a top end that can do 12's on motor, and make up the difference in time with spray.
Or maybe you could do a relatively stock 350 with a nitrous cam and revalve the exhaust ports for like $500, plasma rings for $150, dump the grand into the bottom end and rely on 450+ hp from a $600ish nitrous system. (buy a used carb and intake manifold) I don't doubt for just under 2,500 bucks you can build a motor that is capable of seeing 10 second passes.
Needless to say you would need a beefy transmission and are probably looking at another $500+ for a high stall converter and trans brake. From there you'd need a strong rear end, possibly mini tubs, slicks, a roll cage, a harness, and a fire jacket.
Personally I would never set my budget so low for a 10 second car. I would dump the money into the motor and finish the build next year.