Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
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For the price, i like the competition engineering pieces i got. They are about 100$ or so and they made allot of difference. Only problem with mine is they are made for full length headers, but they make the ones that allow for stock type exhaust, but if you have shorties, what might not even need the sub frames.
I like the Spohn weld-ins I have in Berlinetta #1, although I had to box the front right side to clear the 2055HKR y-pipe after installing poly engine mounts.
I have UMI's I'm installing in Berlinetta #2, but haven't gotten to them yet. Comparable price-wise.
the jegster ones actually fit in pretty good and can be welded in as well...problem was they weren't legal for tying into the D bars on the cage, so now i have the global wests in mine and they're also nice.
I have UMIs on my IROC and no way will I buy them for my RS. They fit terrible, don't clear SLP headers and the pics on the site make them look bigger than they are. The drivers side front has no direct mount point, only a tab off to one side and the bar that goes to the trans tunnel rails. The very front has a good inch gap before the car underside, which allows for flex. Also there's no way to tie into the pinch welds or floor without adding brackets. Like far too many thirdgen "specific" aftermarket items.. they are a halfassed design.
__________________ 1988 IROC Ram Jet 35, T56, Dana 44, D-1SC
Own a Thirdgen? Live in New England? Check out the NEC-F website. www.NEC-F.org
i have the jegster bolt ins that i welded in, then added some extra bracing going into the trans tunnel.
JesesaurusRex, you don't have to tie the bar into the sfc's on a unibody car. actually, the way i read the NHRA rule book was that you should NOT do that with a unibody car as long as the floor/firewall is still stock.
__________________ Matt
370ci LSx, "Close Enough Racing" th400, Transmission Specialties XHD9" 4500 stall converter, Moser 9" 4.30's, Mickey Thompson 28x10.5S's rollin' on BS Street Lites. Pump gas and street driven...doin' it all motor!
i have the jegster bolt ins that i welded in, then added some extra bracing going into the trans tunnel.
JesesaurusRex, you don't have to tie the bar into the sfc's on a unibody car. actually, the way i read the NHRA rule book was that you should NOT do that with a unibody car as long as the floor/firewall is still stock.
way i understood it is you pretty much always have to tie the D bars into the subframe connectors. Mine's already all said and done and I have my 8.50 cert so i'm going to assume i did it right
