I wish I knew how to do a sig w/ my specs, but here they are as of now. 350 GTA, 3340lbs with me in it, tri y headers, airfoil, accel runners, ported plenum, aluminum mandrel bent intake with cone filter, hypertech Street runner chip, 160 thermostat, MSD 8mm wires, accel header plugs, and the newest addtion is MT ET Street Drag Radials. So my best last time was a 14.8 with a 2.1 60 ft. Tonight temp was 68.. Run 60ft 1/8 1/4 MPH TirePSI launch Stall 1 2.092 9.342 14.488 96.05 20 1000 2 2.286 9.653 14.828 95.66 17 off idle 3 2.300 9.573 14.702 96.46 15 800 4 2.111 9.446 14.633 95.20 13 off stall Geez, every run I was spinning my tires atleast thru first gear and into second. Maybe poor track prep, but what the hell can I do to get these 60ft times down below 2.00? I really want to get into the 13's but I am gonna need ALOT of work to do that.

Put some 4.10 gears in it and say hello to 13's all day long. Contrary to what a lot of people say, a numerically higher gear ratio actually lowers your tire spin. Because the gear is a lower gear, the tires aren't spinning as fast in the same gear as with a 3.23 gear, so it will lower your spin off the launch and get you to powerband quicker. My 2 cents.

Yea, I want gears, but was thinking 3.73... What do you think? I either want a torque converter or gears. I don't want both though. Atleast I think I don't. Do I really need new heads to get into the 13's or do you think gears will do it for me?

I'm curious as to why your 60's are so horrible. My 91' went 13.933 @ 97.78, 1.916 60' time. My mods were: K&N filters, BBK 52mm TB, !cats, Magnaflow muffler, LCA's, relo brackets, bald BFG 255/50-16 drag radials.

Before you buy anything, sort the car out and make it work. And I can't say enough... stall converter > gears.

Try lowering your tire pressure and heat them up really good.You have alot of low end torque. Hook it up and you should be real close to the 13's.Do not run 4.10's with a TPI set up.It probably would help reduce tire spin ,but its to much gear for your power band.stick with low to mid 3 series with your current set up.

I agree with him..tpi make there power down low so dont over gear it! My friends tpi ran slower with lower gears! stay in the low to to mid 3xx ratio

I AGREE 100%... Even my TPI 350 in my Van liked the 3.08 gears better than the current 3.73s. The 3.73s work GREAT for towing a load, but the TPI engine just doesn't breathe well enough to need more gear than the 3.08s.

I don't think the track was prepped right. Alot of people's time were high last night. Alot of racers were scratching their heads after they got their time slips. There were also three clean-ups that took forever. The car seems to be running better than it ever has. It idles strong and consistent. If I put it to the floor it just spins and spins. I tried easing into it and it was better but when I mashed it in second it spun then too. The only thing I can think is that I either need real slicks or some of that goo you can put on your tires to make them bite(but maybe that stuff is bogus) If I go with a converter, won't that make me spin even worse off the line? Also what gears do you guys consider optimun, 3.42? Thanks for all the replies!

LCARB's and gears.

Well, I have done ALOT of reading and decided to go with some UMI LCARB's. I like what I have read. Question is, should I replace the LCA's while I am at it or wait? I hate my 60ft times and know I have enough power to hit 14.0 atleast if I can hook. I am thinking of some real slicks while I am at it.

I think if you play with your air pressure you could get better 60' times. If you go with slicks you would also benefit from a better converter.My friend with his big block Lemans runs the micky thomson drag radials with a 3000+ converter. He had to air them down to 15lbs and heat them really good,but he got them to stick pretty good.He has a pretty good suspension set up tho.

hey 70 buick i have got a set up like this 385 tpi in a 85 iroc. engine spec,s are 385 with 822 cast heads 76.cc chambers with 150 intake runners and 194 intake valve not sure about the exhaust but its stock. ported stock intake, stock tb and 24.lb injectors.
fuel pressure is at 46 p.s.i with a mild street cam pretty sure the spec,s for the cam are 212 intake and 216 exhaust dur@.50 and 488 lift. roller rockers and 9.5 to 1 compresson.
msd 8.5 wires shorty headers with 2.1/2 exhaust pipe into hooker aero chamber muffler with dual 2.1/2 tips. 3.42 gear with 245 55 R16 bf goodwrench tires.

ok now that were done with that here are my times as of --9/17/09

-------- .7330---reaction
---------2.2159--60-ft
---------6.4151---330-ft
---------9.7971---1/8-et
---------73.87-----1/8-m.p.h
---------15.005----1/4-et
---------95.16------1/4-m.p.h
---------------------------------this is my worst time of the night.

----.6531--reaction
----1.9858-60-ft
----5.7769..330-ft
----8.9700--1/8-et
----77.14--1/8-m.p.h
----14.0717--1/4--et
----95.78--1/4--m.p.h--
what i noticed is no matter what my 1/4 mile et my trap speed was 95 or 96 m.p.h
( i made 5 passes that night) and my motor quit pulling at about 4500 r.p.m in 3rd gear. hope this info helps. i would also love to break into the 13,s myself.
i started with 20 psi in the tires and stoped at 14 psi. my worst pass was my first and i launched it at 1900 rpm and was spinning tires for about 20 foot. my best pass i was at 14 psi launched at 1500 but had wheel hop when i hit 2nd gear. i am kinda stumped as what i could do for my car.

i noticed your location says eastern shore, MD... what track do you race at?

The first two mods any 3rd gen should get is LCARB's and M/T E/T Street radials either a 275/50/15 or 275/60/15.

i made my own lca drop brackets and modified the lca's to be solid. it hook ok with the 235 60 15 tires but needs 295 50 15 with a 10 in rim. here is a link of my car getting spanked by a forth gen. in this class we all run street radial tires. no drag tires of any kind are allowed. she's running a low 7, 1/8 mile and doesn't have a traction problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmsrKWhcZBk

oh yeah, if you saw the vid, my car never shifted into 2nd

I am running 255/50/16 MT Et Street Radials. Eveyone has sold me on the LCARB idea. I like it. I need to do something because I dropped the pressure to 12PSI and I can still spin all the way thru second. I am not going to lower the pressure anymore.

I have been racing over at the US 13 Dragway in Delmar, DE. I am going to take the car down to southern MD and race it at MIR in October. Then maybe up to capital Raceway in NOV.

My best run full specs..
RT .158
60 2.092
330 6.105
1/8 9.342
1/8 MPH 75.98
1000 12.136
1/4 14.488
MPH 96.05
I felt like I was still pulling right at the finish line, but not much afterwards. If I didn't spin as much as I did, I feel like I would have a solid 1.8 60 ft at the least.

Hi Guys new to the site..but been drag racing for 30 years.
my last car i started with was a brand new 1992 Z28 5.7. back in 1993.
had the car for 3 weeks before spending alot of cash$$$ more than i paid for the car..New. still have it. it's been sitting in the garg out back for the last 6 years.. paint still looks wet..(even dusty)and still smells new..lol
32.000 miles on the od..never seen a wet road. or rain..show room clean..(sad)

any way. back in the late 90's my 60" time's 1.54 was that standard
ET Drags.then ET Streets..13"x28"x15 1/4 MILE 11.89 124PMH (lingenfelter 383)
7.5 (broke alot) 700r4 all B&M 4.11. THE LAST big brake (rear end) took out the sprag in the tranny and tork convtr.. (B$M gave me a free one)
and I replaced the rear with a carry entrprs 9" detrot locker 4.11 31spline
$2300 If i remember bolted right in..also at this time installed a new distbtr. AS IT WAS THE ONLY THING STILL STOCK ON THE Car! anyway(not joking)
never did get it back to the track.. 4 days later driving to the track. it's a street car.. SOMTHINg went Clunk in the eng(@2500RPM)40mph and was on a roll back 20 min's later. will not turn over even by hand. took off the valv covers every thing is there... droped them back on and left it..sad I know.

i told my self i am going to get it running agen..
i love the Car....

and the 60" times.. well that was a blast.. it was a rocket out of the Hole
you could feel it in the back of your eye's pulling..

more then $20.000 in parts still getting Dusty
will never get rid of it! guys still ask me still have your Z28...yes ..yes i do

My 89 IROC 3350 w/me in it went consistent 1.75 60'.
Motor was all stock with Hedman long tubes.
3.73,approx 2800 stall and 255/50-16 M.T. DR @ 16lb.
Tires seemed to like a nice burnout with a little smoke, nothing too drastic but definitely had to warm them up good.


Looking back through some info my car was 3350 alone ,3530 w/me

I never did smoke the tires in the box. I just gave them a little spin to clean them off and warm them. Might try really heating them up next time. I ordered a set of UMI LCARB's and some Lakewood boxed control arms yesterday. Hopefully they may help a bit. ArcticwhiteZ, GET THAT CAR OUT OF THE GARAGE! Sounds like a badd A$$ machine. Guys on here would kill to drive that thing.

Seems like everyones cars are light... I mean 3300 with you in them? That is what like a 3150 or 3100lb car? Are your cars gutted at all?

Well, All I did for a little weight reduction was remove the spare and all it's accesories, windshield fluid reservoir, radio, and door panels(restoring them) . I weigh 170. Little less than 1/4 tank of gas.

I have LCARBS, stock boxed control arms, stock torque arm and sticky et streets.
Best 60ft is a 1.52.

My car is 3610 with me in it.

I have WAY more power than you and I do not spin with my setup and my local track is not the greatest for traction either.

I am jealous! You do however give me hope that the LCARB's and control arms may help a bit. Mind if I ask how you launch?

I get consistant 1.61-1.63 60 ft. The total car weight going down the track is 3400 with a 1/2 tank of gas and driver. Thats with full interior, stock hood with blisters and the Hi-rise spoiler. Im about 245 so the car goes 3150. I could add a FB hood and get down to 3100 flat.

I had quite a bit of wheel hop untill I installed LCARB's and some Hoosier QTP's. I havnt added my new umi LCA's yet plus I need to buy some SFC.

I brake rev the engine to 1000rpm(to take the slack out of the drivetrain) and then mash the pedal.

fiberglass 5 " cowl hood (took off 40lbs)
plastic Head Lights (took off 6lbs)
alumn Heads. (trick flow's) opend up remember this was 1993 (took off 40lbs)
batry out Back (moved 30+lbs)
No A/C Parts (swaped out for heater box only .looks factry)(took off 36lbs)
no wipers (car never seens rain)(took off 12lbs)
no wiper fluid
90/10 struts
3" wide weldwheels.(this took off 40lbs)

thats 200lbs off the front of the car. thats like your buddy sitting on the Nose...I put this car together when it was brand new. so all the parts. coming off and going on.. was just a swap.. it's dusty now but i can go out and take a few photos if anybody wants... also i made my ram air Box for this car and made 6 others for guys who like it..made from alum sheet riveted together.. to the stock plastic bottom half of the Air Box.

it picks air up from the Fog light intakes. and pushes it up into the stock air filter box Y. then into (K&N filters). and to the 1000cfm TB.

all i ever did was just mash the Gas.. some times i would get a 1.51 or 1.52.. but looking at all my old strip tickets..(bags of them) looks like most of the time it was in the 1.54 field 60' times.

this car also has a NOS Fogger set up in/on the runners of the supper ram intake. set at about 180 HP hit..only used 5 or 6 times. as it would kill the 7.5" ring gears ripping the pinon teeth right off... this nos set up was on the car from day 1 also. and used at the top end only.best time with it(only time with it..lol) was a 10.30 @129 MPH. this was using it. at the top end only.. never tride it with the new 9" locker rear end..so close to a 9 sec street car and this was 1993 with a new Z28...today ill go out to the shop..lol car box and take photos of my 1992 Z28. you will see on the front window
EFI 11./ this was my class back in the late 90's with out NOS.
with 100's of runs on the eng..from 93 to 2002/3 WAS not mad when it broke..just sad... im hoping if im lucky it just spun. a crank bearing.
(for give the spelling beer) and yes im drinking a beer at 7.00AM.. im a ret Marine..i can do that...Beers name..FAT TIRE..

this is a short list of whats getting Dusty on my 1992 Z28
remember this was all done in 1993

LINGENFELTER 383 short block (480 hp) this is from them.
trick flow head's with the larger springs for my Roller cam.
(mech cam by the way)
Hypr tech costom prom (this works with the cam)
accel 300 igntn (all of it)
accl 300 wires
accel supper ram intake ported runners
accl bilit dist
accel 1000CFM TB
NOS sports men fogger set up on all runners
petejackson gear drive
edelbrock alum Water pump
Fluid damper (cool looking Black one)
comp cams mech roller
comp cams mech lifter's
comp cams rockers
comp cams push rods
Chevy sigr rockr covers.. (the spedny ones)back then
flex plate foget whos..
milodon 8qt pan
milodon windag try
SS Headers (forget who's) 1 3/4 tubes into a edlebrock cat back set up
singl 3" in 2 . 2 1/2" out
700R4 By B&M with there 3000 convtr (it's small and lite)
south side mech lift bars and sub frame contrs.
carri entrpri 9" ford w/ 4.11 on a detrot locker
31 spine.
weld wheels drag lites
3 1/2 up front with 10" out back sits nice all under car
4 point role bar
5 point belts
and about ever 2 5/8 guage auto meter makes
water temp
oil presh
Vac
Volt or amp i forget..it's still sitting a a box never installed.i have alot of parts like this..
trand temp
Fule Presher eng
Fule presher NOS (all inside with isoltr's)
and that big *** Auto meter tac with **** lite.
roll control
B&M mega shifter (intalled right every thing works..thats a must)
NOS T handle with Button
driver side air bag (must have..lol)
power seats
power lock
power trunk
tilt
cruse
first year CD player
every thing works and smells new..still!
not a dent or ding in this car
it's been 6 years the last time i set inside so many parts i forget.
this was all done in a 6 month time... was swimming in cash$$$
Not so much anymore..lol just me my home a few Guns and this Z28 getting Dusty...Beer!


i did all this work My self
got way into firearms agen.. and now i want to come back.. after all who needs full auto belt fed Guns anyway..right!
(just put them away for a few years..or untill the car runs agen)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6tZXnUZIhg
Me letting a few kids play with Guns

im thinking..420 small block??? or rip it all aout and go with a all alum rat crate eng from GM. of fast times if there still in the Biss

Got the LCARB's and new Lakewood control arms on. I will be racing again on oct 18th. Hopefully those sh$tty 60 foot times will be below 2 Sec. If not I am getting real slicks and some drag shocks/springs.

Maybe I missed it, but is the front sway bar still on the car? I took mine off of my car back when I bought it back in Febuary of 2007. I was looking back at your first post, it seems like your first attempt yeilded the best 60' and ET. I got the best launch out of my car by barely comming against the converter and going WOT on the 3rd yellow. It allowed the stock converter to "flash."

And the drag radials, definately need to heat them up more. No John Force burn out, but definately get a little smoke out of them, then get in the beams and stage.

Yea, mine is still on there. Should I remove it? I didn't even think that would make a difference. What ill effects does it have on the launch? Thanks for the reply

It will help the nose lift and plant the rear tires harder. It's fairly easy to remove/reinstall. Some people don't like driving without one, I have daily driven my 91' w/o one for 2+ years. My 2000 has "drag suspension" with skinnies and no front sway bar. I daily drove that car in that trim for 4-5 months last year.

I would also suggest running with 1/2 a tank of gas, rather than 1/4 or less. It will aid in traction and add weight in the right place.

i dont have front or rear sway bars any more..I dont need them...

i can put a jack under my subframe cntrs.. and jack the car up 2" to 3" and the wheels are off ground.. but this car is 1/4 mile and street.