NEED YOUR HELP AND INPUT! - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

articwhiteZ · 10-03-2009, 11:59 PM

NEED YOUR HELP AND INPUT FOR THIS STREET CAR

Hi
i came across this site about 3 weeks ago. and the Bug Bit ..all over..
i want to get me 92 Z28 out of it's shack.. and back to the track and street..

have posted a few things and photos of My Dusty not driven for the last 7 years Z28. back when the car was new. i picked it up at the dealer. and drove it home.. then after 3 weeks i wanted to install a better cam..
as i am an old treet racer from Way back in the late 70's till now.
was a kid then.. now..not so much..

so looking at the cams they had back then.. i was thinking

ok better cam. lets get better gears.. and add some headers.. and look a catback...and on and on...so then i called Lingenfelter..and the rest was History..as it sits right now.
Car has dipped into the 10's with Nos.
11:70's all day long..12:30's with street tires

Car 1992 Z28 5.7

Weld Wheels Drag Lites 15x 3.1/2 up front
15 x 10 out back (street tires)
15 x 9 out back (slicks) MT ET Streets

south side Mech. Subframe contrs and Lift Bars
auto sport 6 point roll bar tied to subframe

lakewood 90/10 Struts

Carri enterprise 9" ford 4.10 Detrt locker 31 spline axls.
(31 spline..anyone can make them if need be. thats why)

B&M 700R4 & 9" covetr (this is now just a 4speed auto)
runs sweet.. leav it in 3RD and just drive like mom.
or 4th and get on the freeway... LIKE MOM.

Hays flex plate after market

GM prmt mag starter 5 lbs fits in your pocket

Edelbrk Cat Back w/RPM Muflr (remember it was 1993)
SLP SS headers (no smog) i dont need it (shop fix)
No cats.. just 3" pipe

Heypr tech chip with stock chip piggy backing with Nos wire

Eng. lingenfelter 383 11.1

Accle supper ram Intake set up

Nos. sportsmen fogger (180 Hp hit) remember it's only a small block.

Accle 1000 cfm TB

30lb hr injtrs

Comp Cams Mech roller 232/236 @50 lift563/586 112 LC

Trick Flow. Heads gone over by AFR Before installing them

Comp cams roller rockers 1.6

Comp cams Roller lifters

Comp cams Push rods

Comp cams springs to go with the cam

Pjackson Gear drive (im old school thats why)

Millidone 8qt Oil pan

Millidone Windage Tray

Fluid dampnr Bal.

IGN. accle 300 pluse everything..
with Billet Dist added 2002

the edlbrok water pump with the cam rod (for the roller)

under drive pulleys...

No AC.. No Smog

and the list go's on and on.. remember this was 1993/4 when all this was done

every thing was running Fantastic!!! for 8 Years..

Then one day it just stoped and i slid it into it's shack and walked away.
(will not turn over by hand) it just stopped?
3 days before.. the tranny was all gone over. and the new 9" was added. along with the New accle billet Distr. I was on the way to the track to try it out..when Lights came one and i rolled to a stop..at the side of the road..Just dropped $5000 INTO IT 3 DAYS BEFORE!!

7 YEARS GO BY

Now we come to the last 3 weeks!

and i have to get it running agen. have $10.000 now.. but want to only use $5000. (need to eat thing)

would like to get it into the low 11's without NOS

been looking at a 422 cid. I can use all my parts on it..

going with a better header
Hooker Long Tube 2210's (will do the O2) ($600)
with a Y pipe then into my catback

Now whats your Guys Feed back on a 420/22 Cid ($3500)

keep my intake? and use it agen? ANYTHING BETTER?

more cam?

what do you think..
***********************************************
the one thing i will also be doing By summer is the spohn tube K front end
and coil overs. and the rear Coil overs thats about $3000.
COULD DO IT NOW have the cash...but i Have to Eat..it keeps me alive.. (you know ill get the rear coil overs now any way..make it stop! make it stop!!

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gtpro700 · 10-04-2009, 10:44 AM

Is there something wrong with your bottom end now? or do you just want more cubes? If I were you I would probably keep that bottom end and get a set of heads and maybe a little bigger of a cam and you should be in the low 11's on motor already.

articwhiteZ · 10-04-2009, 11:33 AM

dont know whats up with the Eng.. thinking the Bottom End is froze.. dont need the 383 any more anyway.. 406/415/420/422

more cudes!

Whats wrong with the Trick flow heads? mine worked Fantastic!
have been thinking on another set.. as i hate to think about putting a used set on the new eng. but will have them gone over if i do use them a 2nd time. But whats wrong with the trick flow heads? (the set up was A PAIN IN THE A$$)
1.Cutting the rockers Faces to fit the springs
2.buying the right push rod's.
3.shaving the Top head bolts to fit the spring's
BUT they seem to have ran fine for 8 Years.

Cam? been thinking about that..
talked to Comp cams. they think the same.

up in the 600+ on the lift.. but will have to look to see if the cam gets in the way of the rods..lol

AlkyIROC · 10-04-2009, 11:34 AM

From a previous post, I think he hurt the engine before it was parked. Probably threw a rod.

Buy a crate engine and drop it in or yank the current engine out and have it repaired.

articwhiteZ · 10-04-2009, 11:58 AM

thanks for the input.. but what im asking is any body have info on the say 420 cobo's out there?

yes my 383 is not coming back..i dont know whats wrong with it..

no leaks
No Smoke
No antifreez in oil
all the valv train inplace.
it just stopped one day.. i am not going to use that short block.
hope i can use 80% of my parts

when i take it apart i will take alot of Photos and post..

But what im asking is.. anybody have first hand info with the
406
415
420
sbc ENG'S

CAN ONLY GET SO BIG BEFORE My cam gets in the way..

articwhiteZ · 10-04-2009, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephen 87 IROC

From a previous post, I think he hurt the engine before it was parked. Probably threw a rod.

Buy a crate engine and drop it in or yank the current engine out and have it repaired.

Hi Stephen
ya know i was driving the car at about 2500 rpm about 35/40MPH
to the track.

and it was just like hitting a pop can sound..sorta. nothing Big.
and the eng lights came on and that was it.. no drips no leaks.
will not turn over by crank or by hand..

im hoping i can use most my old bolt on parts...$$$

any info on the 415/420 combo's that are out?
Buy a crate engine?
From who. and what Cid. have cash thinking up to $3500 for the short block..

gtpro700 · 10-04-2009, 12:31 PM

8 year old trick flow heads probably arent that great for flowing numbers especially compared to the heads that are out now. Pick up a set of AFR heads and make some serious power. About the short block im not sure what your looking for in regards to them... but i dont have any personally experience with them so ill stay out of that part of the convo

What do you mean about cam getting in the way??? There are a lot of people running large cams with no problems...

articwhiteZ · 10-04-2009, 01:19 PM

**Cam in the way**

something they (eng maker) told me when going with a 422 cid.. has the stoke is Long.. and comes closer the the cam inside...

DIGGLER · 10-04-2009, 02:09 PM

honestly, i think i would maybe do a 406 if your wanting more cubes. i wouldnt be too worried about getting another 20 cubes out of it, though.
if your going to spend money on the motor, spend it on the heads/cam/intake. thats where your power potential is. get some afr's or whatever and have them ported by T.E.A or ADVANCED INDUCTION. they could also spec you out a camshaft. you just need a shortblock thats capable of supporting however much power you are planning to make. and also rpm potential.

if it were me, i would check out that 383 you have now. if its nothing major, i would probably fix it and run it again. im sure it has some good parts in there if its a lingenfelter shortblock.

articwhiteZ · 10-04-2009, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIGGLER

honestly, i think i would maybe do a 406 if your wanting more cubes. i wouldnt be too worried about getting another 20 cubes out of it, though.
if your going to spend money on the motor, spend it on the heads/cam/intake. thats where your power potential is. get some afr's or whatever and have them ported by T.E.A or ADVANCED INDUCTION. they could also spec you out a camshaft. you just need a shortblock thats capable of supporting however much power you are planning to make. and also rpm potential.

if it were me, i would check out that 383 you have now. if its nothing major, i would probably fix it and run it again. im sure it has some good parts in there if its a lingenfelter shortblock.

a 406 and a 427 are the same price $3500 ball park
with all forged parts.. do you know any place say in the $2700 ball park for a 406 with all forged parts.. that would be cool..

spent close to $7000 on the 383 from lingenfelter back in 93/94
and i do want to see why it stoped..

and i will look at a new set of heads.. after talking to AFR about what mine look like.im going to send them in when off the eng..

but lets face it guys more cubes with the same parts = more power.
and thats the name of the Game..right? more power.
and i will look at a new set of heads..

thats why the more cubes up grade.. been on the net for the last 3 days looking at short blocks.. came across T and L Engine Development, Inc

they have a 427 cid small chevy short block for $3300
all forged parts good name brand stuff. and the shop looks good.

sent them a email with all my info.. see what i get back..
i have set $3500 aside for the short block.. thats a done deal.
now just have to pick one out.. 406? 415? 420? 427?

ALSO PUT ASIDE $2000 FOR NO SEEUMSS (aka things you run into)

AlkyIROC · 10-04-2009, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by articwhiteZ

but lets face it guys more cubes with the same parts = more power.
and thats the name of the Game..right? more power

yes and no. More cubes will make more power but it also needs different parts. Bigger engines need bigger flowing heads to feed the engine. There's a practical limit to how much air can be flowed through a SBC head. A factory head on a small BBC can flow more air than a good aftermarket SBC head because it's a completely different head design. An aggressive camshaft in a small engine becomes tame in a bigger engine. Your 1-3/4" headers will probably be fine but a big SBC should have around 1-7/8".

Your current parts will work fine on a bigger engine but don't expect to see huge gains. Changing nothing but CID will only see roughly 1 HP per CID increase so going from a 383 to a 406 and using all the older parts will only gain about 23 HP.

Tear the 383 down and see what's wrong with it first. If you spun a main bearing, it might be cheaper to buy a new engine. You could buy a 383 short block and put all your stuff onto that.

articwhiteZ · 10-04-2009, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephen 87 IROC

yes and no. More cubes will make more power but it also needs different parts. Bigger engines need bigger flowing heads to feed the engine. There's a practical limit to how much air can be flowed through a SBC head. A factory head on a small BBC can flow more air than a good aftermarket SBC head because it's a completely different head design. An aggressive camshaft in a small engine becomes tame in a bigger engine. Your 1-3/4" headers will probably be fine but a big SBC should have around 1-7/8".

Your current parts will work fine on a bigger engine but don't expect to see huge gains. Changing nothing but CID will only see roughly 1 HP per CID increase so going from a 383 to a 406 and using all the older parts will only gain about 23 HP.

Tear the 383 down and see what's wrong with it first. If you spun a main bearing, it might be cheaper to buy a new engine. You could buy a 383 short block and put all your stuff onto that.

Talking about heads and headers... and the cfm.. dont know if the new eng will need to go past 6500 rpm.. and was thinking the headers hooker2210 would work alot better then my old ones..

and i am looking at heads.. after all it's just a air pump...right.. more in more out..but from my trick flows to say AFR at under 6500rpm will it be money well spent.. thats like $1500 Just for heads.. thats most of the No Seeumss cash...but i am taking it all in..thank you.

and yes i will take the old eng apart clean parts and bolt them right on the the new eng..wanted to do the swap in 1 weekend.. take one out..swap parts slide one back in...

you could be right about the heads.. it was going flat at the top end
seemed to nose off..(stop pulling) at 5800 rpm.. even with NOS
or it was the header y pipe mine is so small 2" at best to the 3" cat
the header flange is only 2 1/2..
(this is why the new headers hooker 2210's)

and all left over parts will be sold
Heads $700 with new valv springs & seals (10.000 miles on them.if that)
Lingenfelter 383 short block $1500 (in bag maby)..lol

DIGGLER · 10-04-2009, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by articwhiteZ

Talking about heads and headers... and the cfm.. dont know if the new eng will need to go past 6500 rpm.. and was thinking the headers hooker2210 would work alot better then my old ones..

and i am looking at heads.. after all it's just a air pump...right.. more in more out..but from my trick flows to say AFR at under 6500rpm will it be money well spent.. thats like $1500 Just for heads.. thats most of the No Seeumss cash...but i am taking it all in..thank you.

and yes i will take the old eng apart clean parts and bolt them right on the the new eng..wanted to do the swap in 1 weekend.. take one out..swap parts slide one back in...

you could be right about the heads.. it was going flat at the top end
seemed to nose off..(stop pulling) at 5800 rpm.. even with NOS
or it was the header y pipe mine is so small 2" at best to the 3" cat
the header flange is only 2 1/2..
(this is why the new headers hooker 2210's)

and all left over parts will be sold
Heads $700 with new valv springs & seals (10.000 miles on them.if that)
Lingenfelter 383 short block $1500 (in bag maby)..lol

give brian tooley a call at t.e.a...... ask him what he can wring out of your trickflow heads. might be a worthwhile investment to have him port them. he and phil at advanced induction can do some pretty amazing things with the porting. my stock LT1 castings are flowing 295+ with only a 200cc port. they were done by AI.

gtpro700 · 10-05-2009, 12:02 AM

If you can salvage the 383 and have it machined and rebuilt it would probably save you some money and just buy heads with the money you saved. Trick flow is a big name but not many even that are newer flow what a pair of AFR's do. For 1500ish you can get a pair of AFR's that have been proven to make power on a 383 (615hp to be exact) this was only the stock 195cc heads with the street package and not the competition porting. By the time you have your old heads ported and drilled for a 400 block you will have spent a good chunk of change anyway so why not just get a new pair with better technology. You also said heads wont matter that much at lower rpms because there just an air pump.. that is not the case because at lower rpms the newer heads will still flow a lot better then those others heads will and make more power down low. I see it a lot when people skimp on heads because they are expensive intially but bang for the buck the best part to buy because no matter what other parts you throw at a motor you will never make power if you dont have heads that can flow. With a new set of heads and a good cam with the minor bolt ons to support these mods you can be in the 10's on motor nevermind the low 11's. Either way you decide good luck and keep us posted.

articwhiteZ · 10-05-2009, 01:34 AM

the heads i Have now have about 10.000 miles on them.. and made 475hp and 490 ft lb trq.. on the 383..
will not install them on a new eng,,(with out going overthem)

has im going with more Cubes. the 420.I will be looking at other heads.
the lingenfelter package 420 with corvet Heads made 500 Hp and 550f.p.t

ALL THE SAME PARTS Just more cubes and a better header and Y pipe.

have a few places to call in the AM. to see what price they Give me on a short Block.. if i can get it down to $3000.. we will see what Lingenfelter says about what heads to Use.. and yes the heads are what make the eng work.. this i do know..

they Lingenfelter.. have one combo with a 406 thats like 500 Hp with my cam.and 512 fp trq. also with my intake.. all done By 6200rpm
this one is with AFR heads and is about $3800. now im in the ball park. but dont have the Cubes i want...

I have about 5 places to call.. and see what price i can get..
money's burning a Hole..AND i know it will take 3 weeks to have anyone make it...

could just go broke and Buy the RamJet 502. 502 HP ($9000)
i love the look of that thing.. and yes it would fit.. after all going to buy new headers any way....(thats what i wanted to do)

as for the 383.. it will go to the nexed Guy.. or Be gone over and put in a 4ply bag under the bench.. for a back up eng..for?

articwhiteZ · 10-05-2009, 05:23 PM

OK.. i now see what you Guys are talking about.. they dont make the heads i Have on my car now ANYMORE..(I did not know that)

but AFR and i did chat.. the Heads will do every thing i want them to.
Under 6800 rpm.. with the Cam i want to run.. and My CID.
they do flow good..298 CFM at yada yada yada

this is the Up date:

T & L
all new all forged 383 11.2 to 1 with my heads.
will send My heads to them. they will go over them checking them out.
also my
gear drive
Cam (all mech roller)
Pushrods
Lifters
rockers
New springs (for my cam)
Oil Pump
Pick up tube
oil pan
windage try
Balncr
flexplate
Water Pump

they do all the work
deg the Cam.
put every thing together.
test run with info..crate it up and send it back to me for $3450 shipped

Ill drop it in. set up the Accle supper ram.
getting rid of the SLP 1 3/4 SS headers. 2 1/2 coltr
has a flowmaster Y (set up to fit edlbrok cat back systm) anybody want the headers $good price$No Smog! tube bosses cut/tapped & pluged

then:
install the New Hooker 2210's long tube 3" coltr
and Y to my catback.. say what ($1000 to do this)

thats $4450 add $1000 for no seeums ($5450) that still leavs me with
$5000 to eat with... it's going to be a good winter..

another shop is putting together a Bid for a 396cid all forged
will see that that price is...

gtpro700 · 10-05-2009, 11:51 PM

Are you sure your heads flow 298 cfm because that seems quite high for such an old head design... What is the size of the intake runner you have on your heads? You also said the motor only made 475 HP but with that type of CFM you should easily make over 500 if not a lot more with all things being equal. Why are you goign with a 383 if you already have one? Why not just bring your 383 to get rebuilt and probably save you money right ? Usually what a couple hundred to machine and a couple hundred to assemble so you could probably have the motor you have now rebuilt for 1000-1500 instead of $3450.... There might be an honest reason im just not sure why though. Are you getting a new cam or staying with the one you have if goign with a new one what will be the specs?

articwhiteZ · 10-06-2009, 03:04 AM

as long as every thing is still alive inside the old eng.. heads/cam/gear drive/dist/.. the plan is like this..

Heads should have posted "flows UP TO"...
when testing heads you can run the air flow/CFM up at a given amout.
to get your CFM # with intake runner size and RPM.
AFR info that I still Have. after they worked on My heads. tells me that it will work with My Cid and Cam..and RPM. and save me $1500. old style..yes.. But with new spring's and seals and a going over..they will be like new.and work for now..will be spending the other cash at SPOHN

OLD 383
why have Just one short Block for your street strip car..
with the New Eng In.. i can then have the other eng gone over and see what all it Need's.. after all a 4 bolt Bowtie block with a steel crank rods and Good Piston's with 10.000 Miles on it.. sould not be that bad..
Knock on wood

.. this why i always have a back up..and maby more Cubes nexed time.. (have to crack it open) will when I strip all the parts off of it...

Cam
using the Old Cam. was thinking about a Bigger cam but the Guys at comp cams. seem to think it would not work as well..with My combo of parts..
Rpm was under 6200.. (thats why Im using My Heads over)

Linginfelter came up with this cam for My combo.. it was not something comp cams came up with.. this is a cust made cam for Lingenfelter By comp cams..for there Eng Combo I Have..thats why the Good HP and Tq.
the car was in the 11:70's with slicks.. out of itty bitty exst.. Remember the Y was only 2 1/2 " into a 3" cat back.. with street tires and a Buddy with me it was a 12 sec car all day long.. some times making 4 runs right after ea other..back to back...(I hate that) if i did not brake out..
(I hate that).. as well..or running out of Gas at the track..I hate that has well... only ever put in 8 gals

looking at the front Tube K frame. and coil overs.
and rear Coil overs... about $1700. thats about the cash i save with using my old Head's.. and droping 50lbs off the car as well.. im still crunching #'s.
told my self only spend $6500 Now...

thats if every thing pans out.. and I dont have to BUY any thing but Valv springs..LOL..

will be doing a short Video/Photo of this over the Nexed 2 Months.
(I Hope)

should Just save the Money..But if i do..it will Just get spent on stuff like..Food....

.....soon to be back on the street....

Hoping to get the New Plate's (KICKGAS)
BY Telling them im going to run Propane
Kick Gas get it...LOL Hope they Buy it...

soon to Come back from the Dead..My car that is...

gtpro700 · 10-06-2009, 06:41 PM

So you are spending a lot of money but are you gaining much performance from this whole deal? Sounds like the same setup you had that ran 11.70's to 12.30's. How do you plan on running low 11's with this setup on motor? You almost want to knock a full second off with what some headers... If you have the money to have spare engines lying around more power to you, but I personally would still spend my money else where. A 475 HP 383 isnt that impressive for the money your spending. Im not tryign to be rude but I just dont want you to waste your money.

articwhiteZ · 10-06-2009, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtpro700

How do you plan on running low 11's with this setup on motor? You almost want to knock a full second off with what some headers..

it was 11:70's with out hitting it hard out of the Hole.
would Kill the rear ends (3 of them). with a 1.54 60" time the rearend would let go.. like clock work... now with the 9" in it. i can stand on it.
every time.. that. And a better free flowing Y Pipe and Headers i hope to get down to Low 11:s should not be hard..

when i would get on it a bit more out of the Hole. like a 1.60 60" it was in the 11:50's im sure i can get a 11:20 by standing on it..from start to finnish...when i bolted on 2" taller MT's i picked up 4mph faster also..
i know it's there.. but your right.. it's not that hard to run 11's.. just do it on the same eng for 8 years.. thats the Fun part.. I am still working on a deal for the 396sbc. also
(no call back with Price yet...383.Humm.396...same price..more cubes)
all forged bottom end 4 bolt 11.2.1 $2200.(short block with 6" H beam rods)
then add $1000 to redo my heads install ALL My Parts bal within .1gram
test run. crate it and ship it back to me...thats hard to pass up..

Every Engine is DYNO TESTED and WARRANTY Backed.
(Cant get that in spokane WA) for that price!
T and L Engines
12303-A Renee Ford Rd
Stanfield, NC 28163

as it is the car is close to low 11's and braking parts (rearends) would strip the pinon gears and crack them.. (4.11's). but to keep it alive.. i was nice to the rear end. and running 11:70's.. knocking off 4 tenths should not be hard...with a rear end that will take it now.
the NOS got me 1 run of a 10:34.open header & hitting it in 3rd gear.. will have to see if i can Hit it in 2nd and 3rd..

wish i could just drop all $9000 into it... we would be looking at a ramjet 502
im not Joking...

UP DATE: way past $9000 and trying to stop at $12.000

articwhiteZ · 10-07-2009, 01:32 AM

starting bal $10.185.00

front end parts from Spohn

703-CO & 703R Tubular K-Member / A-Arms / Coil-Over Package - SBC / BBC / LT1 / 3.8L V-6 for Stock Style Steering ..............................$1274.00

K-Member Material Type:Mild Steel 703-SMM Motor Mount Pads:SBC/BBC/LT1 Motor Mount Pads.................................................................$50.00

703-BM K-Member Brace Mounts:With Brace Mounts..$25.00
703- K-Member Braces:Include K-Member Braces......$65.00

731 A-Arm Type:Mild Steel with Poly Bushings SS-125 Steering Stops:Include Steering Stops.................................................................$39.95

738 & (2) Q-14-175 Coil-Over Kit Choice:Pro-Drag (Small Block)
in with above Kit's

Color:Bright Red D2 Online Ordering Discount .............-$29.08

SUBTOTAL: $1424.87
add say $150 for shipping total...............................$1574.87

this drops almost 100lbs off the front of my car..thats a .10th of a sec

eng $3500.

thats $5000 Right there

wow it go's fast..the Money that is...

gtpro700 · 10-07-2009, 01:01 PM

Thanks for breaking it all done money wise and showing us what your doing. I plan on doing a tubular front end possibly over the winter if funds allow so it is nice to see what things will run me. Is this car goign to be street driven as well ? Just wanted to know how the coil over setups are on the street if anyone else wants to chime in. Keep us updated with some pictures and good luck on your project. Also did you buys these parts and when are you expecting to have it in by? Thanks again and good luck

articwhiteZ · 10-07-2009, 01:42 PM

i gess when you order the parts. it takes them about 10 days to make them.. and shipping to me is only $100 and not $150...

yes this is a street car.. that go's to the track as well.. thats why the Poly Bushings..

would like to do this in the nexed few weeks..

then By Summer i can add the rear coil overs. as well.
and maby the pinto rack.. another $1000 together..

anybody know if i can do the K member with ENG in the car?
or is it a pain.. if so I can Just pay the Guys at the shop to install it and aline the car after... like a 1 stop fix..

BlueChevyZ · 01-20-2010, 10:10 PM

crate engine from T&L engines in N.C.
Still fighting with them to get the carb for my motor, its been 2 months since I recieved my carb-less 383 turnkey package. But for those that are thinking about getting a motor from them do a search or check out these links...
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/anyb...nt-151785.html
http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/str...gines-n-c.html
http://forums.popularhotrodding.com/...ely/index.html
http://www.tandl.freeforums.org/t-l-engines-f4.html

articwhiteZ · 01-20-2010, 11:37 PM

yes i saw a few things..so i shopped more and saved $600 and paid Wheeler power prodcts.
$3600. for my 427. short block with Bal & flex plate.

dart block
Hbeam rods
11 1/2 Forged pistons
forged crank
sfi Bal
sfi flex plate
intrnl bal
shipping

i have not been in a rush.. has i still have not pulled
My old 383 out yet.. i paid back in sep.. but told them no rush maby in spring..so they will have lots of time...

Fast 383 · 01-21-2010, 12:39 PM

I read this thread and now my head is spinning.

Orr89RocZ · 01-21-2010, 06:25 PM

^ agree, not sure what is going on here...

If you have a 383 thats lockedup, tear it down and see what the deal is. Have the assembly inspected. If all works out, rebuilt/reuse it and just improve the intake/heads/cam to run lower ET's

SUperram is starting to become a restriction on larger motors unless its totally hogged out. I'd switch to something else and gain few hundred rpm of useful range and make more power and run faster

I did the 401" Dart SHP block route but I built it for boost. May cost around 4600 for a bullet proof SHP block bottom end, but its a good investment for over 383 cubes.

t-top havoc · 01-21-2010, 07:08 PM

Hope the motor guys don't screw you articwhiteZ!!
Yea there's lots of motors to choose from & doing some
research you seem to be happy with your pick.
***IMHO--I would go bigblock***
If you keep a thread for the project, I'd follow it-- so is
the motor going to be assembled or will you do it??
Good luck!!

articwhiteZ · 01-21-2010, 11:47 PM

i use American Exprs to pay for my eng.. Im Good..

was looking at a ramjet 502 $10.000 (plug and play)a bit more to it.. but you get the drift.

was thinking i would Keep the New Upgrade in the $10.000 ball park.. with every thing.. in the last 3 months it hit $11.000.

as i shop and do things in town i run into guys i raced with.
and now they are piching in with a cherry Picker. and eng stands.
and things i got rid of years ago. drop by saying lets get started..

we have no snow this year.. so it looks like we can do the pull in a few weeks.. a few guys want my old 383.. will have to see what is wrong with it when we pull it out..

there is no replacment for displacment.. thats why more cubes...
the 383 was fun.. but today we can get more from a few more cubes.

yes i could have pulled it down, and fixed it,..but i passed on doing that.
just get another one and start there.(will the 383 get fixed..why not)
if anything the 4 bolt bowtie block will be saved.. can always use that over.

all the engs from 420 to 454 in the sbc had the same price.. always wanted to have a 427 in my Camaro,
(all with dart or bowtie blocks) the motor is going to be assembled by wheeler.
after they tell me, they need my parts i will send them...
i paid for all of the 427 short block up front.
With H beam rod upgrade $200
and SFI flex plate and bal $200
so the total with shipping paid out is $3600. (short block 427)

i have alot to do.. and about 3 weeks ago planed to add a procharger to the eng as well.. this plan sorta slowed things down a bit..
as i need a lower C/R, will have to go with 72cc(AFR) heads, should drop in down into the 9.5.1 ball park, from the 11.1 it is now,
My old heads are 64cc.
WAS thinking of adding 9psi of boost not a lot.. but enof to get another 100hp+ out of the 427. and keeping the RPM under 6100.. should not be a prob..will the accle super ram work..yes.. yes it will. this is not a 7000rpm race eng, this is a street car eng, that lives it's life on the street, and see's the track 2 to 3 times a month in the summer.

if i cant get the procharger to work with my ECM (dont know why) think it's just a upsell thing..as the add says not mods needed to the ecm.
then ill stick with the 11.9.1 CR we picked out before.. the procharger.
(i buy gas in 55 gal drums and like the cherry smell..lol)

the procharger thing: (was thinking of doing 2 chargers)
My thinking
427 SBC 9.5.1CR
52psi fuel presher
36lb injtrs
tuned
bolt on (1) 8 to 9 psi of boost procharger WITH ALL THERE PARTS
and intercooler

there side
it's not a stock 350, so ill have to go with a aftermarket ECM.
46+ on the injectrs
and run 14 to 16 PSI of boost?

My side
how about 8 to 9 PSI of boost, that way i dont have to use a 180HP hit of NOS to see the 10's anymore guys?? (will drop the fogger down to 100hp)

then we have all the front end parts.. thats another story..$1300
the no seeums (parts you dont think about) came to almost $2200.
gaskets/tires/oil pumps/drives/headers/Val springs
and a list of other parts i did not need..seats/panrod/trailing arms/
car ran fine with out them...(use the stock ones..lighter)for my set up.
they work.. as i dont have a TQ are in the car anymore..

so you can see how a upgrade when from say $5000 to well over $11.000 gets going.

remember:
my car has been sitting for going on 8 years...
could of done this 7+ years ago.. Just got lazy with the Fix it thing..
broke..spend $5000 fix it..broke spend $800 fix it..broke let it sit for 8 years..
spend another $11.000 to fix and upgrade... could take up drinking..lol
the car was running for almost 9 years. just lots of rear ends and 1 tranny thing.
with say 200 passes at the track and alot of street driving..even the OD sits at 36000 miles now...time for a new eng..her 3rd

Orr89RocZ · 01-22-2010, 01:41 PM

forget about the 36-46 lb injectors. Get some 60-72's if you plan on running 9psi on that motor. 72's for 15psi or even 80lbs. Thats what I have they work great. Plenty of fuel for up to 1000hp that I plan to push.

My 401 went 10.37 at 135 with no launch, rough tune and too loose converter on just 10 psi so yes, you will be well into the 10's with 8-9 psi. Closer to 9's is possible depending on your heads/cam. My setup is mild.

730 ecm with code $59 will tune that setup just fine

articwhiteZ · 01-22-2010, 04:19 PM

would need to get more info. on whats been going on with the ECM's

all of prochargers info talks about a stock eng L98 TPI
and bolting on there unit, making 5 to 6 PSI with inter cooler.

iv been thinking (dont know) thats why im asking.

see my old 383 ran the stock ecm and stock chip piggy backing a custom chip... ran fine. mid 11.s.. 30 lb hr injtrs. 11.1 (no NOS)
same cam going into the new 427
comp cam mech roller 230/236 @50. 563/586 112LC
nice smooth cam. thinking of using the same chip
just uping the ijectr size from 30 to 36.

SO whats with the ecm's,whats out there that i can plug and play
with my Harness.

what is 730 w/code?

never did anything with the ECM's, just work with the chip.

I have one other cam i have been wanting to use. it's also a mech roller
comp cams 236/242 @50 602/608 112LC
if im swaping out the ecm and can do custom tune, then i would go with this cam in the 427. (dont have to) just thinking..

as you can see the cams are not that Big at all..
not like my old ricky race cam's i used before EFI
320/325 @50 650/660 type stuff 4000 STALL
THAT WAS 20+ YEARS AGO. cant recall it all just a few #'s stuck with me..

Orr89RocZ · 01-22-2010, 05:35 PM

730 is the ecm you should have now being a 92 car. all you need is a chip tuned with $59 code to run a blower and a 3-bar map sensor. stock ecm cars use whats called $8D..its just the program code in the chip. Pretty simple conversion for you. TUning will take some time however but will be necessary.

I wouldnt expect you to make a 427 and run on the same 383 chip even tho the same heads/cam intake. Just doesnt work that easily.

procharger kits for mild L98's with 6psi can use boost referenced fuel pressure regulators that will increase pressure at a 1:1 ratio or more to dial in the extra fuel they need but thats a bandaid to proper tuning/management systems. Do not expect that to work well with a 427 on 9+ psi

articwhiteZ · 01-22-2010, 06:10 PM

boost will be under 7PSI

ARE YOU Giving a ball park price? on chips??
the last chip was like $280 but then that was 1993.
everything is still factry5.7 92 Z28+ custm chip.. so who can do the new chip?

if i can get a new chip set up for the new 427. then it opens the doors for alot of new things..

any info on whos doing the chips would be fantastic.

and as i want my heads looked at.. ill take Diggler's info and check out what His Guy can do,to see what my heads need.. and if i need to upgrade I will..

evey thing from the tranny back is done.
Buddy who has a muffler shop will be doing the tubes under the car just from headers to Y.
the rest from Y back is on the car now..

Orr89RocZ · 01-22-2010, 06:55 PM

I dont know anyone tuning $59 for a living. People that tune syclone trucks could try with $58 code but you may be on your own with that setup.

Else get a FAST XFI setup which is money.

7psi is kinda mild but still should have a boost sensitive tuning setup like a 2 bar map system

articwhiteZ · 01-22-2010, 10:37 PM

My Car set up with a Map now..just the factry one.