hey wondering if anyone has run these (especially the n2o guys) and how they performed. trying to step it up from the old vortec combo. looking to run around an 11:1 383

My buddy ran 200cc iron eagles on his 383 with 11.1 Cr and a 244/249 HYD roller cam. The car did not perform well at all and ran some 11.90's at best. He took them off and put them in the corner. Bought some AFR's but hasn't ran it yet.

I have a friend that builds stock car motors. He built a motor for a guy that was supposed to get vortecs.The guy was a little short on cash so my friend borrowed him a set of iron eagles he had laying around so the guy could race that weekened. Once the vortecs got swapped on the person claimed it was faster with the vortecs.I also talked to a guy at my local track that said his 85 firebird was faster with vortecs than it was with iron eagles.He was running high 10's on motor and high 9's on N2o

hmmmm i may have to stick with the vortecs then. anyone ever hit them with ludicrous amounts of nitrous?

I have hit them with a 150 shot on my old 355 10 years ago. The car only ran mid elevens but for three straight years with no issues.

well i'm looking to try to run right at 6.4x in the 1/8th since i only have the 8pt in the car and i'm not ready to put the 10pt in yet. i was thinking along the lines of if anyone has tried 200-250, just be a few times a month.

this may all go out the window as i've found a 6.0 for a reasonable price that needs a cam and lifters, BUT i'd like to go as fast as possible with these vortec heads.

I have a set of 200 cc iron eagles that were on a 383 with a hydrolic roller cam. I have done some porting on them, but have had good results with them. On my old 383 with flat top pistons and the same cam, my car ran 6.70s in a 2840 lb race weight. The new 383 same cam but 12.6/1 pistons, it ran 6.40s, all motor. I've never tried the vortechs so I don't know how they compare, but these are better than the old double hump heads of the late 60s. I all so have a set of Pro comp aluminum heads on a 406 that runs 6 teens in the same car. Those heads are far from junk, like everybody says.

I'd also reccomend keeping the vortecs. The Iron Eagles were designed as a budget oriented stock replacement head. They're better than typical 882's and the like, but were more designed to be competitively priced when compared to full head rebuilding. - The 200cc versions will out-flow most typical OE iron heads, but they still don't have the technology of the vortecs.

I'm spraying 150 at an almost 10:1 vortec 350 right now. My tune-up is clean though, not some out-of-the-book NOS jetting bs.

The only thing to question with spraying vortecs is the deck thickness. We all know the OE heads are prone to crack on OE apps, none-the-less moderatly sprayed apps. If I was worried enough to upgrade I would be looking at the RHS replacement vortecs, possibly even the larger 200cc version.

thanks for the input shag! i've got a 9.7:1 vortec motor i'm throwing in the car for this season and i might be putting 150 to it. i also had thoughts of doing something like 11:1 and 225-250 in nitrous as a budget build

shag what is that vortec setup and how does it run on the 150?

Pretty simple combo: 70's 2-bolt 350 block(true-decked to pistons), prepped stock cast crank, pink rods w/ good bolts/polished beams, forged flat-top pistons, 906 vortecs with bowls fully blended ports gasket matched and exhaust ports ground as high as possible. The cam is around 220@.050, 480ish lift, roller rockers, RPM air-gap intake, holley 650dp, old-school NOS power-shot plate.

It's in an '85 S10 blazer, 3.73 8.8 rear, mono-leafed with a tq arm, 4L60, 2500ish stall, full a/c and is on 17x8 mustang bullets. I haven't had it to the track yet, but it's rocking pretty hard on the street. I'm sure it will have no problems running in the 7's in the 1/8 on the jug. Once I get some odds-n-ends finished up it will be my daily for a while and I'll get it to the local 1/8 to see what it does.



I don't think I would push the GM vortec casting much harder than 100-150hp of spray. The decks are to prone to cracking. The aftermarket versions are considerably better heads and can be had complete with quality Comp valvetrain for under $1k.

thanks for all the input man. the combo i'm putting in right now is just some stock vortecs, with an XR288, super victor intake, holley 750DP, and going to have long tubes on it too.

the same motor in my buddy's car ran 7.9x and it was around 3600lbs running down the track with a converter that was a little too tight. so in my 3100-3200lb car with a th350 and 3500 stall i'm really hoping that i'll be closer to 7.5x. and my car has relocation brackets, good control arms, some 3 way adjustable shocks, BMR torque arm and a burkhart panhard bar. the best his car ever 60ft was a 1.75 and i was getting a 1.80 with mine with the old motor with a stock cam. then i was thinking that a 100-150 shot on it would definitely make for a fun little street car

Why are you ready to give up on the vortecs. If you want to build a vortec motor for the super vic vortec manifold and nitrous get a real camshaft for it as the motor is going to want to rev beyond what a hyd lifter will take. Get a solid roller cam for it.

You will not hurt the vortecs or the pistons on the juice if you put some decent gas in the gas tank. Get some 110 octane unleaded.
Fully port your vortecs including the chamber and go to a 2.02 or 2.05 x 1.60 valve set.
a solid roller juice cam installed advanced with 254-268 @.050 on 112 and .600-.630lift 10.5:1 for a juice motor.

You will see plenty of the old Iron Eagles up for sale cheap. Especialy the non platinum ones. The 180's really suck.

The new latest version GM big port iron Bowtie vortec heads are a best buy at $1000/pr assembled
GM #25534446 if you are not up to a big porting job.

http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/...9#/a95780b9/18

Check out the 67 Chevelle in that article... He's a local guy around my way been 8.90's with home ported Vortec heads at a 3600lb race weight

thanks for all the input, i'm getting a lot of the same feedback here i did on YB. stay tuned for a full port and build

and the "little" cam was because this motor was in a daily driver, still got like 18-20 mpg on the highway without a lockup converter lol

The RHS vortecs are hands-down nicer than the GM bowties, and for less $. I've had both in hand at the same time. The decks were thicker in the RHS's, and the casting was cleaner. - I personally stick with 1.94 intake valves in them unless you intend on opening up the chamber considerably.

The S10 motor should be 400-425hp on nuts. I didn't dyno it, but have gotten that out of similiar builds. I'f I get greedy with the jug I could probably flirt with 6's in the 1/8.

anyone used these yet?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFR-912/

and now i'm curious to see if anyone has used those rhs heads in a build and if they were any better than the stock vortecs?

I've used the RHS(one set was still topline) on two mild 4wd truck builds; both were just the 1.94/1.5 170cc stock replacement versions. - One truck already had all the typical bolt-ons plus a cam, it picked up 23rwhp doing rings/bearings and the head swap(untouched/out of the box). We had wanted to freshen it soley due to mileage(160k), the rings and bearings were OK, but the heads had begun to crack(typical deck split between center cylinders). Fixing that + freshening them would have cost more than the RHS, so we just ordered them. Since the cranking compression didn't change over 10-15psi, I would have to believe the heads were the biggest portion of the difference, plus another 65k later it's still maintaining that power.

Competition Products has the RHS complete/ready for considerably more cam than stock vortecs for under $1k. For that $ I stopped messing with OE take-offs.

i'll definitely keep that in mind, but this all may be irrelevant for me now cuz i might be getting myself a 6.0 that needs a cam and lifters for next to nothing. i'll definitely be getting the RHS's if i have to put this 350 back together