bigblak

iTrader: (2)

ok guys ive been a member on here for quite a while and finally got my car back together at the tail end of the season here in syracuse ny. made 5 shake down runs at the track with new motor, trans, rear, torque arm, front suspension, rear adj antiroll bar and 12pt cage. so to say the least it was all new but the paint job. motor is a 421 inch sbc NA currently. 350 trans fully rollerized 9inch with 390 gears. adjustable jegster arm and junk comp engineering shocks up front is trick springs drag struts tubular everything. that being said best pass was 10.33 at 130 with 4 other 10.35-10.36 @ 130 passes 1.31 60 foot best with an average of 1.40 cars on 275s. my buddy helped set up the chassis, we squared the car up and put pre load to it. is my missing link for the bad case of rear body separation the lack of double adjustable shocks for my extension rates

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

thats a pretty huge difference between a 1.31 and 1.40.... i would think something was broke if it slowed down a full tenth to the 60.
anyways, im not sure what the problem is with your car. if it seperates too much, you need to bring the lower control arms back to level or perhaps even higher on the axle side. if it seperates too little, take the arms to lower on the axle side.
the jegster arm is pretty dang short, and would tend to have a good bit of seperation easily.

if it is spinning, that would explain the 60' changing so much, and shocks could help with that depending on when the car begins to spin.

AlkyIROC

Separation is good. It means you're driving the tires down into the ground for traction however you need good shocks to control the axle movement.

You need some sort of double adjustable shock. You need to allow quick extension so that the tires get driven down but firm compression so that the tires don't bounce and force the diff back up quickly. The firm compression will allow the diff to return to a relatively neutral position slowly.

If the tires get driven down too hard with a lot of separation, you can get other problems. It could bog the engine down if there isn't enough power to maintain wheel speed on a very sticky track. You could also go into tire shake which can do all sorts of bad things like snapping axles.

If traction is poor, you drive the tires down harder into the pavement. If traction is good, you reduce separation to prevent tire shake and if horsepower is really high on a good track, you may even want it to squat to allow some tire spin. Setting up a car so that it's neutral with no separation or squat is great for a tube chassis 4-link car but doesn't always work for a production car with basically stock style suspension.

An adjustable chassis allows you to change how the car reacts on different tracks. Springs simply hold up the body and shocks control the movement of the suspension. There is no magic setting. You need to experiment to see what works best for different conditions.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Im not sure you've asked a clear question. What was different between the 1.3 and 1.4 runs?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

FYI, Viking double adjustable shocks are on sale on UMI's website this weekend. $340 shipped for double adjustable rear shocks. i ordered a set, lol.

i have a jegster torque arm (non adjustable) and noticed it would hit the tires really hard and had lots of body seperation with the lca's in the lower hole on the relocation brackets. the solution was to put them to the middle (for me, you'll have to play with it some).

bigblak

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the replies so far! the difference in 60ft times had largely id say to do with tire pressure changes chasing a fuel related issue and id blame mostly on myself being first time down the track in about 4 years was that weekend and on an all new setup. the last three passes were the best with little to no spinning and 60 fts were the 1.31 a 1.38 and 1.37 id say the 1.31 @10.33 being best time, was at the best temp of the day an could be thrown out the rest were all pretty tightly grouped. i was leaning towards the rear shocks being my current weak link more so then control arm height but im game to try it all. friend of mine just put a set of vikings on his chevelle the end of the season it will now almost dead hook and day light the left front slightly where before it would have terrible wheel spin. this was only from a shock change.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

if it spins immediately right off the hit, i would keep messing with suspension adjustments. if it hooks then spins, shocks may be of some help. after going to a radial, my car would haze the tires ~20ft out. so i put some double adjustable afcos on and everything was good.