LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have pics of their cars with a cage and a dash pad?

I have a cage and that's the last piece to install.

Anyone ever use carpet or the VFN fiberglass dash pad?

http://vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm

AlkyIROC

Depends which cage kit you use. If the A-pillar tubes run down the a-pillar to the firewall then you'll need to cut the pad. Not easy to get the pad in place once the tubes are in place.

The other option is to have the a-pillar tubes run on the outside of the dash. They run down the A-pillar from the halo tube until they're roughly even with the dash then run straight down past the dash. They can then be bent forward to join up to the floor under the dash.

Either way is acceptable but when I put my cage in, I have no stock dash and liked the cleaner look of having the A-pillar tubes running down the full length of the A-pillar. I made an aluminum dash to fit between the A-pillar tubes.

A-pillar tubes running down from the halo bar only need to extend forward enough to protect the driver's body. Your feet and legs can extend out of the protection area of the cage. The tubes just need to be forward enough to allow enough room to get in and out of the car.

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

Got a pic of what yours looks like?

AlkyIROC

A whole thread on putting it i the car

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...roll-cage.html

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

Here's mine so far, last piece is the dashpad





I have searched high and low on the interwebs for 3rd gens with cages and dashpads and only ever found 1 other pic.

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

Here's the other pics
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ge-ce-s-w.html

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

These are from StevieB's car from YB

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I have the bent A pillar bars that goes in front of dash.

ambainb

Back from the dead, do you mind telling me what cage that is? S&W? And any other pics looking forward at the dash?

AlkyIROC

S&W makes the best kit short of having a chassis shop make a custom one.

ambainb

Yeah i see that now, i like the look of that kit and not having to hack my dash and a pillars, but how much do thos bends weaken it.. also not many ttop cars with cages.. any problems getting the ttops off? And lastly ill be hi tens on motor, 200 shot down the line, you think i need a 10 or can i get away with an 8 point

AlkyIROC

The a-pillar tube bends to not weaken the cage. If you want a little more strength, you can install a knee/dash bar above or below the steering column between the 2 a-pillar bars to tie them together. While you're at it, you can also install a sill bar to tie the main hoop and a-pillar bars together down along the door sills. Just takes a little more 1-5/8" straight tubing to make the cage stronger although it's not required for cage minimum requirements but the extra bars all serve a purpose.

I can easily remove my t-tops if I have to. The only advantage to removing my t-tops is to let more light in and to give me a little more head room while I'm working inside the car. With the full cage, it's a tight fit to do anything inside the car.

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

No problem removing my t-tops with my cage.

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Sorry, I did not see your post until now.

Yes my cage is an S&W race car 10 point cage kit with the bent A pillar bars, and bent/clearance'd door bars.

My car is a T top car and I don't have any probs removing/installing T tops.

Here is a few pictures..

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

Another vote for the S&W kit!

ambainb

wow lots of pics, thanks guys this solves a lot of my ?'s by the way anyone else looking at s&w's... the 8 point is 1,3/4" and the 10 point is 1,5/8"
8 point is around 100lbs mild steel -20 for molly, 10 point is around 140lbs mild steel - almost 40lbs for molly...
I think im going with the 10 point with the bent bars for the dash, ill post up pics of the intall when I do. need to replace drivers floor pan first.. buffalo problems

AlkyIROC

The 8 point is actually a roll bar which has added tubes to make it a 10 point. Roll bars are made from 1-3/4" tubing. You can start will a roll bar and make it into a full cage eventually but you would still have the oversized tubing from the original roll bar.

A full cage built from the ground up and not an extension of a roll bar, is made from 1-5/8" tubing or at least all the main components of it are. Not every tube needs to be the maximum diameter. I have 1-5/8", 1-1/2" and 1-1/4" tubing in my car and it passes a chassis certification except for the tube running behind the seat. The wall thickness is too thin and I need to change or modify it but I still got a certification with it in.

Nothing wrong with using mild steel. My entire cage is made from mild steel. Moly is nice but needs to be welded with TIG while mild steel can also be welded with MIG. Moly can also become brittle over the years of abuse and can crack. MS is more forgiving.

I have far more tubes in my cage than what you'll be putting in and my cage is right around 200 pounds of extra weight.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Moly is nice but unless you are a high end pro racer I don't see it being worth the price and trouble.

Like Alky posted, CM must be tig welded, where MS can be mig welded.

Here is the weight break down on my 10 pt. MS S&W kit.

170# 10 point cage, extra clearanced door bars, 6 plates, cardboard, steel band straps and other shipping stuff

-24# 2 straight door bars
-3# cardboard, steel band straps and other shipping stuff
+4# 2 swing out side bar kits
-5# scrap from bars, ends I cut off.
+3# 2 extra 6"x6"x1/8" plates
+4# welding wire used

Total 149 pounds added to car's weight

ambainb

I wont be doing the molly

ambainb

and the weight numbers I posted were from s&w.. 10lbs lighter than yours with the extra stuff... unless he gave me a heavy number