rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
#1
rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
What are you guys that run quicker than a 1.40 60' using for a rear sway bar? I'm looking for a pure bolt on bar, or maybe minor welding, something adjustable. I have the stock tank & bolt on bars and such, and don't want to spend the money to re-engineer everything.
my car is twisting too much, all I have now is a stock z28 bar and poly bushings, but it's hooking too hard now for that, and twisting the crap out of the launch.
my car is twisting too much, all I have now is a stock z28 bar and poly bushings, but it's hooking too hard now for that, and twisting the crap out of the launch.
#3
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
Stock irocz 25 mm. I havent left with all the power, still sorting things out with the suspension. Been 1.39, but it hits somewhat soft since it is a turbo car and the onslaught of power up top as boost comes in has caused traction issues. Havent made many passes yet but expect low mid 1.3's once everything is figured
I dont come up like you do tho. Very slight twist, right tire on ground driver side 3" up. I would think chassis stiffness plays a role in twist? I also still have wonderbar brace and iroc 36 mm front bar
I dont come up like you do tho. Very slight twist, right tire on ground driver side 3" up. I would think chassis stiffness plays a role in twist? I also still have wonderbar brace and iroc 36 mm front bar
#4
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
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Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
Full cage in my car and it still twisted until I installed and anti roll bar. Best suspension upgrade to make for a drag car.
#6
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
#7
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
it won't hurt to pre-load the existing bar, and we did that on mine before i got the BMR unit.
this is the one i have...in black hammertone:
http://bmrsuspension.com/?page=produ...383&superpro=0
this is the one i have...in black hammertone:
http://bmrsuspension.com/?page=produ...383&superpro=0
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#8
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
An air bag on the right rear spring would be simple solution and you can easily adjust the preload (air pressure). and leave your stock rear bar alone.. maybe replace the bushings if they deformed.
A ladder bar suspension eliminates needing a rear sway bar at all.
I have not used the rear sway bar or the torque arm in over 15 years.
I have southside machine bars, my car leaves nice & straight.
I assume your car has 6 or 8 pt roll bar, can't tell from the pictures.
Something is also going on with your axle on that first pic... the rear tire looks too forward in the wheel well.
Have you upgraded the lower control arms?
A ladder bar suspension eliminates needing a rear sway bar at all.
I have not used the rear sway bar or the torque arm in over 15 years.
I have southside machine bars, my car leaves nice & straight.
I assume your car has 6 or 8 pt roll bar, can't tell from the pictures.
Something is also going on with your axle on that first pic... the rear tire looks too forward in the wheel well.
Have you upgraded the lower control arms?
Last edited by FRMULA88; 08-15-2014 at 09:07 AM.
#9
Supreme Member
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
no sway bar.
#10
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
Yes, they are solid heim bars from founders, and lca relocation brackets... Now you got me thinking...
I run stock suspension classes, and spent quite a bit to get this far, so a ladder bar is out.
I thought about the airbag, and think my brother has one kicking around from a jeep I might try.
#11
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
If your axle is "out of square" in relation to the driveshaft that could explain the excessive leaning to the right.
Try measuring from center of front hub to center of rear hub (left and right side)
to see if the axle is square (should be same distance)
Perhaps you can adjust the heim joints on the LCAs if the measurement is off.
What size rear tires 28 x 10.5 x 15s?
and air bag is cheap and easy, even better if you just have one laying around.
Try measuring from center of front hub to center of rear hub (left and right side)
to see if the axle is square (should be same distance)
Perhaps you can adjust the heim joints on the LCAs if the measurement is off.
What size rear tires 28 x 10.5 x 15s?
and air bag is cheap and easy, even better if you just have one laying around.
#12
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
Yes, 28x10.5. the car goes strait, it just twists to beat hell. even setting back down one tire at a time didn't throw it.
I'll do the measurements to see if something moved, but I had it aligned last year, 4 wheel alignment, by someone who KNOWS these cars (the tech has a twin turbo third gen), so if it is off, that means something moved.
I burnt a piston on that last pass, so I gotta fix that before anything else... thank you for the advice.
I'll do the measurements to see if something moved, but I had it aligned last year, 4 wheel alignment, by someone who KNOWS these cars (the tech has a twin turbo third gen), so if it is off, that means something moved.
I burnt a piston on that last pass, so I gotta fix that before anything else... thank you for the advice.
#13
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
Another possibility is the rear is squatting so much on the launch that the whole axle is moving forward as nose lifts.
I would check the pinion angle and torque arm connections.
Hopefully you don't have the stock torque arm anymore.
are you using a trans brake?
if everything checks out the chassis just needs some serious tuning.. start with the air bag
I would check the pinion angle and torque arm connections.
Hopefully you don't have the stock torque arm anymore.
are you using a trans brake?
if everything checks out the chassis just needs some serious tuning.. start with the air bag
#14
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
Another possibility is the rear is squatting so much on the launch that the whole axle is moving forward as nose lifts.
I would check the pinion angle and torque arm connections.
Hopefully you don't have the stock torque arm anymore.
are you using a trans brake?
if everything checks out the chassis just needs some serious tuning.. start with the air bag
I would check the pinion angle and torque arm connections.
Hopefully you don't have the stock torque arm anymore.
are you using a trans brake?
if everything checks out the chassis just needs some serious tuning.. start with the air bag
All that's on a foot brake th350, 355 stock crank 2 bolt, 3580#, and an SLP torque arm I literally found in a junkyard
#16
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
it could simply be that you overpowered the stock chassis with the nitrous tune set on kill. but I don't like the rear wheel position in that photo something is going on there.
I run NA a 421 dart block w/ Brodix 18 degree heads.. 10.5 @ 127 with 10.4x 60'
400 trans with a 'brake. launching at a mild 3200 RPM.
on the spray you a pushing close to 700 HP to run a 10.4 . N20 shocks the whole drivetrain when it hits.. of course the motor sees the full force of it. a better approach would be a 2 stage setup small hit out of the hole then 2nd hit at 330 or use a progressive controller on a single stage to ease into the hit.. that will get you low ET and help solve the suspension burnt piston issues.. fatten up the tune.. pull out some timing, cooler plugs, and run higher octane fuel when setting it on kill.
I run NA a 421 dart block w/ Brodix 18 degree heads.. 10.5 @ 127 with 10.4x 60'
400 trans with a 'brake. launching at a mild 3200 RPM.
on the spray you a pushing close to 700 HP to run a 10.4 . N20 shocks the whole drivetrain when it hits.. of course the motor sees the full force of it. a better approach would be a 2 stage setup small hit out of the hole then 2nd hit at 330 or use a progressive controller on a single stage to ease into the hit.. that will get you low ET and help solve the suspension burnt piston issues.. fatten up the tune.. pull out some timing, cooler plugs, and run higher octane fuel when setting it on kill.
#17
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
sway bars help control body roll when you are turning... last I checked drag racing is a straight line affair. I would not put too much emphasis on just that.. shocks wear out springs wear out..(sometimes at different rates) the biggest clue you gave is this in not your normal tune.. you set it on kill. This is when you launched crooked and burnt a piston so that is the root cause of the problem..
need to control the hit... so it's not so violent.. try the air bag. leanin to the right is typical that is the way the engine rotates.. the right tire will always hit first (posi) unless you have a spool or locker... maybe time to ditch the posi-traction.
need to control the hit... so it's not so violent.. try the air bag. leanin to the right is typical that is the way the engine rotates.. the right tire will always hit first (posi) unless you have a spool or locker... maybe time to ditch the posi-traction.
#18
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
sway bars help control body roll when you are turning... last I checked drag racing is a straight line affair. I would not put too much emphasis on just that.. shocks wear out springs wear out..(sometimes at different rates) the biggest clue you gave is this in not your normal tune.. you set it on kill. This is when you launched crooked and burnt a piston so that is the root cause of the problem..
need to control the hit... so it's not so violent.. try the air bag. leanin to the right is typical that is the way the engine rotates.. the right tire will always hit first (posi) unless you have a spool or locker... maybe time to ditch the posi-traction.
need to control the hit... so it's not so violent.. try the air bag. leanin to the right is typical that is the way the engine rotates.. the right tire will always hit first (posi) unless you have a spool or locker... maybe time to ditch the posi-traction.
#19
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
axle out of square- you will notice as the car leaves it will immediately head right or left. mine was out about 5/8" and it would go to the left badly once it got faster. fixed that and it went straight.
use your adjustable lca's to move the axle back to the center of the wheel wells, too. axle is too far foward. put the pinion angle 2-3 degrees.
use your adjustable lca's to move the axle back to the center of the wheel wells, too. axle is too far foward. put the pinion angle 2-3 degrees.
Last edited by DIGGLER; 08-15-2014 at 05:41 PM.
#20
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
I burnt the piston b/c I was trying a new tune on too hot of plug, it burnt ~500'. My fault trying too go for it. Short block has been together do 7 years, and has taken a beating like a rented mule.
I know I need a sway bar... Looking for a recomendation.... I like the bmr Matt put up.
Car has no transbrake, I've always foot brake.
Car goes stays strait. I have -4 pinion angle... And that changed a bunch of stuff. After I fix the piston I only have 1 11.50 race & 1 bracket weekend... I'll upgrade the swaybar & torque ARM over the winter if I can afford it.
I know I need a sway bar... Looking for a recomendation.... I like the bmr Matt put up.
Car has no transbrake, I've always foot brake.
Car goes stays strait. I have -4 pinion angle... And that changed a bunch of stuff. After I fix the piston I only have 1 11.50 race & 1 bracket weekend... I'll upgrade the swaybar & torque ARM over the winter if I can afford it.
Last edited by no green; 08-15-2014 at 06:26 PM.
#21
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
nitrous is a beautiful thing (when everything is working ok). the torque off the line is what really makes it shine. a stock motor could instantly have a couple hundred more ft.lbs at 3k rpms.
supposedly bmr redesigned their bar and its ok now, but a friend installed their older style and it was horrible. there was no way to get the end links vertical. instead, they wound up at an angle and that bothered me to no end. check out the trz one, they have a pretty sweet setup. i have the wolfe bar on mine and it has worked good.
my old th400 had no brake and i was footbraking it. worked great until i bent the fins in the converter. if your converter is in the neighborhood of where it needs to be the car wont go much faster with a transbrake.
supposedly bmr redesigned their bar and its ok now, but a friend installed their older style and it was horrible. there was no way to get the end links vertical. instead, they wound up at an angle and that bothered me to no end. check out the trz one, they have a pretty sweet setup. i have the wolfe bar on mine and it has worked good.
my old th400 had no brake and i was footbraking it. worked great until i bent the fins in the converter. if your converter is in the neighborhood of where it needs to be the car wont go much faster with a transbrake.
#24
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Car: 1987 IROC
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
The TRZ piece is VERY nice. The BMR also works well, seems to be the best choice for a "stock style" piece. This is what I would use though if I were spending someone else's money :
http://trzmotorsports.com/wp2/?produ...d-bar-assembly
http://trzmotorsports.com/wp2/?produ...d-bar-assembly
#26
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Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
Big stock rear bar with a air bag, remove the front bar and you could also put a front suspension A arm drop limiter.
A cable from the A arm to the body, its helps combat to much front end rise/ limit the wheelie action.
A cable from the A arm to the body, its helps combat to much front end rise/ limit the wheelie action.
#27
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
An air bag on the right rear spring would be simple solution and you can easily adjust the preload (air pressure). and leave your stock rear bar alone.. maybe replace the bushings if they deformed.
A ladder bar suspension eliminates needing a rear sway bar at all.
I have not used the rear sway bar or the torque arm in over 15 years.
I have southside machine bars, my car leaves nice & straight.
I assume your car has 6 or 8 pt roll bar, can't tell from the pictures.
Something is also going on with your axle on that first pic... the rear tire looks too forward in the wheel well.
Have you upgraded the lower control arms?
A ladder bar suspension eliminates needing a rear sway bar at all.
I have not used the rear sway bar or the torque arm in over 15 years.
I have southside machine bars, my car leaves nice & straight.
I assume your car has 6 or 8 pt roll bar, can't tell from the pictures.
Something is also going on with your axle on that first pic... the rear tire looks too forward in the wheel well.
Have you upgraded the lower control arms?
#28
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
That trz piece is sweet... been looking at spohn's site, too. I like their torque arms better than the others I've seen.
I'm going to experiment next year with the limiters... I need to keep the tires in the beams longer when on the tree... or I'll be red lighting like a mother... I don't care if it does a wheelie, it's fun!
#30
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Car: 1984 Z28
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
So...did you get that new bar in yet
Good luck, I had a change in plans and looks like I will be able to get mine out this weekend as well...
Good luck, I had a change in plans and looks like I will be able to get mine out this weekend as well...
#31
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
the bar is really nice, I cant wait to try it out!
KWIK84 hooked me up big time with one of Steinjager's new anti roll bars for the 82-01 f-bodies: http://steinjager.com/shop/index.php...earch=roll+bar
I ordered it Wednesday mid morning, and by lunch I had the fex ex confirmation number, and the bar showed up Friday night
Many thanks to the Steinjager crew! I'm going to get it on asap, while I'm waiting for the heads to come back.
The bar was VERY well packed (don't try to open it while drinking... unless you have friends around to laugh)
I was impressed by the quality of everything:
I ordered it Wednesday mid morning, and by lunch I had the fex ex confirmation number, and the bar showed up Friday night
Many thanks to the Steinjager crew! I'm going to get it on asap, while I'm waiting for the heads to come back.
The bar was VERY well packed (don't try to open it while drinking... unless you have friends around to laugh)
I was impressed by the quality of everything:
Last edited by no green; 09-18-2014 at 02:28 PM.
#34
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
It's a nice, piece, Matt. I have intentions of a before and after write up, but this car is kicking my ***.
I got the motor set in on Sunday, and went to attach the transmission, and a 6" chuck of the bell housing came off in my hand. ... To keep track, I junked 2 pistons, 2 heads, 8 lifters, a set of bearings, rings, the transmission case, and transmission mount on ONE pass... I feel like I'm running top fuel
So... I pulled the trans and took it to be welded, but I'm not going to have it ready for this weekend... and the weather is turning to crap soon, and I don't think I'll be able to get a good pass in, but I WILL have it installed sooner rather than later.
I got the motor set in on Sunday, and went to attach the transmission, and a 6" chuck of the bell housing came off in my hand. ... To keep track, I junked 2 pistons, 2 heads, 8 lifters, a set of bearings, rings, the transmission case, and transmission mount on ONE pass... I feel like I'm running top fuel
So... I pulled the trans and took it to be welded, but I'm not going to have it ready for this weekend... and the weather is turning to crap soon, and I don't think I'll be able to get a good pass in, but I WILL have it installed sooner rather than later.
#36
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: Alky 360
Transmission: TH400, Freakshow 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.71
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
The entire kit is fairly lightweight, coming in just under 15 lbs.
#37
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
So far i am finding limits on my tires traction capability given the shocks and springs i have on this car. I cant seem to leave the line any harder than 5 psi or so and ramp boost in slow. Went 1.42 friday. Car is stable as a rock coming out the hole tho. Stock iroc sway bars front and rear
#38
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: Alky 360
Transmission: TH400, Freakshow 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.71
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
So far i am finding limits on my tires traction capability given the shocks and springs i have on this car. I cant seem to leave the line any harder than 5 psi or so and ramp boost in slow. Went 1.42 friday. Car is stable as a rock coming out the hole tho. Stock iroc sway bars front and rear
That and all of the twist is the initial hit, where your turbo car is coming in soft compared to his nitrous car coming in all at once.
Do you have some good vid of the car at full boost? I would guess there is some twist in that thing at about the 330 mark.
#39
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
I wouldnt call it soft lol. 4500 rpm and near 10-11 psi is around 600 lbft trq and probably 500 whp. It def didnt like it.
295/55 radial at 14 psi
Idt there is alot of twist either. Front 36mm sway bar and 24 mm rear. Subframes and 8pt bar
Heres the 1.39
Gonna try again in a week i think
295/55 radial at 14 psi
Idt there is alot of twist either. Front 36mm sway bar and 24 mm rear. Subframes and 8pt bar
Heres the 1.39
Gonna try again in a week i think
Last edited by Orr89RocZ; 10-01-2014 at 09:33 PM.
#40
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: Alky 360
Transmission: TH400, Freakshow 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.71
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
Nice!!!
I was under the impression you were ramping in the boost after the initial hit.
Just for my own math, do you happen to know your corner weights?
I was under the impression you were ramping in the boost after the initial hit.
Just for my own math, do you happen to know your corner weights?
#41
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
Well i do ramp up from initial hit and that may be considered soft at 5-6 psi per second. But power goes up nearly 30-32 whp per pound boost so within 100 ft i have ramped in close to 450-500 whp worth of power from my starting point of 5-6 psi. Thats pretty violent lol. So far thats as fast as i can ramp the power in and hold traction. Now that i have co2 hooked up i have a more stable pressure supply for the controller to do its magic. If i continue to leave low at 5-6 psi it may take alot more ramp rate. But i want to leave higher on power as that is where most of the 60 is made, from the dead stop position
#46
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
Remove the front sway bar and get some front runners, those alone with wake up the 60' and scrub some time off the ET.
#48
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Car: 1984 Z28
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Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
That LF weight is for sure helping to reduce your twist!
But either way 1.39's and 3700 lbs is getting it done for sure!
But either way 1.39's and 3700 lbs is getting it done for sure!
#49
Re: rear sway bar for 1.40 & quicker cars
I finally got a chance to put the Steinjager bar on over the weekend. If you follow the directions, it goes smoothly... if your like me and don't, you'll do it twice
I'm happy with the quality and design, and very happy with the extra clearance around the shock *****, and I can now take the cover off and service the rear end without the sway bar in the way. I think it will meet my needs, and hope to put it to work in the spring!!
Here's the link: http://steinjager.com/shop/index.php...earch=roll+bar
I'm happy with the quality and design, and very happy with the extra clearance around the shock *****, and I can now take the cover off and service the rear end without the sway bar in the way. I think it will meet my needs, and hope to put it to work in the spring!!
Here's the link: http://steinjager.com/shop/index.php...earch=roll+bar
Last edited by no green; 10-27-2014 at 08:39 AM.