Been putting this one off for a while, but it's getting to be too much, even for me. Eventually, the column separates when the four torx bolts back themselves out. Wish GM had used some Locktite way back when. If anyone has the following tools and can let me use them for a couple days please let me know. Also, if anyone has done this job and has a couple hours to spare, it could save me some time, as I've never done a column before. I have the Vader instructions and a bunch of photos, but there's nothing like hands-on experience. I had the job estimated at 2-4 shop hours, I think that's a bit high for something I should be able to do myself. small Torque wrench pivot pin puller Steering wheel lock plate depressor Steering wheel puller If not, I'll buy them to do the job on Sunday and Monday. If anyone wants to watch, give a shout. Thanks, Ed

Do you need a cloumn or those bolts? I have a parts car that has both unspoken for. Closest I've come is dropping the column to unplug the speedo cable to swap clusters, but never pulled a column before. Unfortunately I dont have the tools you need, barrowed my Uncles stuff when I swapped my steering wheel.

Yeah, no tools for that here either. I need to replace the one on my dart, but without the "specialty tools" it's a little harder from what I hear. Both my friend and my cousin have done it without the "correct tools," but one had his experienced father help, the other had his neighbor.

I'd like to drop by if you don't mind. I'm not sure if I can make it though. I need to pull mine apart for cleaning and possibly replacing a few parts, but I wanted to see it come apart first. Maybe the next time I hit up a yard I could take a swing at it!

Laters,
Scott

Is it a tilt column?

I hate to mooch tools, so I bought most of them today, the most important being the lock plate remover. After reader Vader's article on doing the torx screws, I'm convinced trying to do the job without the lock plate remover would be to difficult.

Well, all this might be of value to someone else having the same problem.

Sure, no problem. I plan to start about 9 or 10 a.m. Sunday, call first, just to make sure I didn't get cold feet and procrastinate, heh.

Ok, I've got all the tools and lubricant, so if I can keep my nerve up I'll take the column apart Sunday a.m. and document the carnage with a digicam.

I also consolidated the Vader tech How-to articles and photos on the tilt column repair into an 8-page PDF about one meg in size.

Send me an email and I'll send it to anyone who is interested.

I have a bunch of other tech and mechanic repair files too, for those who want them.

Luckyducky_96701@yahoo.com

Was trying to post up but couldn't get the website to work, kept getting a DNS error.

Vader said the first time someone did this job it would consume their weekend -- he was right! Sat from about 12 noon until 6 p.m. was taking it all apart and shooting lots of pics.

The depth if the job is only about six inches, but everything is strangely shaped and fits like some wierd puzzle. There's a few tricks that I'll add to my mechanic library documentation file.

On Sunday I started about 10 and had it all put back together by 2 p.m., but the turn signal lights didn't work anymore. It was odd, the mechanical stuff worked right ... checked fuses and wires they're ok. Resorted to taking the whole thing apart about 30% in to remove the turn signal light plate. Looked ok, but removed what might have been excess lithium grease and reassembled. Lo and behold the lights now worked and it's upsetting because I don't know why. Sheesh, talk about a caveman fix, sigh.

The torx bolts were loose to the extent that the bolt heads were about 1/8-inch above the flat. Really bad, but now the steering wheel and column is perfectly tight.

Here's two of those bad boys....

I'm liking the steering wheel in the parts car Shawn has - don't worry, you'll be getting my old one so you can steer it! I also would like the turn signal switch assembly, how hard was it to mess with that? I get to do it to two cars, two removals and two installments. Sounds like a two-weekend job to me...

The steering column can be pulled down to the turn signal assembly in about 10 minutes with a puller and plate removal tool. Without them, you'll need four hands, the strength of Superman and patience of Job.

Which part of the turn signal switch assembly do you need?

Removal of outer stem is done just by pulling it out. Easy. That's what enables the front housing piece to be taken out.

If one of those steering columns will be junked, I'd like to get a couple parts if nobody else wants them.

Having done this before I can tell you that it is a chore. But not too bad once you do it and know what you are doing.

I've found that to remove the snap ring, if you don't have any tools that fit just get a strong peice of fishing line and tie a slip knot in it. Then loop the slip not around one end of the snap ring and use it to keep tension on the ring while you use the screw driver to pry the rest of the ring up.

Thanks for the advice, I read about the string trick earlier on the board. Since economy wasn't a prime objective in doing my project, I didn't mind spending a few dollars on a specialized tool and being assured of a sure-fire way not to be frustrated on a holiday weekend when the stores are closed on Monday. The tool made the job easy enough for a clumsy guy like me to do it one-handed in less than two minutes. Besides, buying the tool is an investment that will pay for itself by earning a few six packs over time!

For those who have anxiously waited for the finished "how-to" book, it is on the Duck-site, about 1.32 mgs.

http://www.geocities.com/luckyducky_...ing_column.pdf

Very nice Ed! Thanks!

Thanks man!!

where did you get the pivot pin puller for the tilt?

I looked around for one, couldn't find it, so instead of pursuing through the Internet, decided to try removing the pins using Vader's method -- it worked, they came out easy.

The whole process and illustrated manual is on my website.

http://www.geocities.com/luckyducky_...ing_column.pdf

OK.. back to my homemade tool...

so all of those little ball bearings just get greased up and put back into the plastic races? one at the rear and one at the front of the collar that goes over the spindle?

Yep, everything goes back where they came out. Make sure not to drop the balls down the tube...

I still have the column for the RS... it wasnt loose before, but I guess since its been rolling around in the back of the truck... it's loose now...

Crap...I can only account for 27 of the 28 ball bearings!!! Think that will be enough?

hmmm... you sure its not on the side of the drivers seat?

your concern is going to be "where it went" and if it's going to create a problem if it gets wedged in someplace.

I looked everywhere for that last one...tomorrow, in the light, I'm going to break out the magnet on a stick thing and see if I can't get it to show itself. I've dropped the entire column and took off the bracket, removed all the wiring and everything looking for that one little ball, I know it's not down the shaft.

The little grease thats on them makes them a real PITA to find sometimes...

Before I run to the parts store in the morning, do you happen to know what kind of grease to use for them? Just regular wheel bearing grease? That's what it looked like already there......

I've seen some with what appear to be EP1 (clear) and some that have White lithium grease...