Pony Killer

Is Completely streetable. Have finally got mine together enough to start putting miles on it. It's so Tame it's almost scary.

Through the exhaust it's not obnoxious at all at idle. or low throttle low load.

doesn't load up at lights, doesn't try to stall sits there happily idling around 800rpm.

I do have a feeling the Converter has a big part in it, its a 9.5" ACT 3300 stall converter.
So far it's behaved perfectly, almost stock at low throttle, and does what it's supposed to so far at higher throttle.

It's not a luxo cruiser, many things have been sacrificed to speed, ie, heat/ac, radio, powersteering, anthing remotely emmisions related.

However the Powerbrakes work wonderfully, the 245K mile booster is having no trouble with the cam.
So far it's a huge thumbs up in the streetability and fun department.
Granted it's not broken in yet by far but, so far it's having no problems with high octane pump gas.

Quick motor specs.
355, Vortec heads, 10.65 compression. Xe 274 cam, 1.5 race gold rollers, rpm intake, 1" open spacer, 780 holley

This car's a trip to drive now, i can't wait till she's nailed down.

onebad82z

iTrader: (7)

Second that...love the XE274...very nice street/strip cam.Wait till ya mash it...ear to ear!Also another car with zero brake vacuum problems with the cam.

BitchinCamaro

What are the specs on that cam?

onebad82z

iTrader: (7)

230/236 degrees duration at .050" lift... .487-.490 lift...110 LS ( if I remember correctly)...11.5-12" vacuum hot idle in my motor.1800-6000 rpm powerband..lopey idle around 750-800.

Speedemon171

i have it also. It is one bada$$ cam

johnsjj2

I have that cam, but the roller version. It has .510/.520 lift. I think it is very streetable, but mine does have a very noticeable lope up to 1k rpm. I have it set at 900 now. I love it. I just need new valve springs now.

N8Miller

i have been really interested in this particular cam.
i have herd nothing but good things about it and my cousin is set on going with this cam in the spring. he is going to change over to the roller style motor and use the XE274 with a set of AFR 190s.

how do you think that this motor will fare with the 190s and the 274 cam?

Pony killer or anyone with the XE274 cam: what is your combo and what kind of times areyou running? do yo have any dyno numbers?

N8Miller

oh----they make a roller verions AND a non roller version???
with the non roller version, what do you need to swap in the switch?

Pony Killer

the grind number opn the roller version is an XR 282R

355, Warmed over Vortec heads, 10.65 compression. Xe 274 cam, 1.5 race gold rollers, rpm intake, 1" open spacer, 780 vac sec holley, HeI ignition. 700R sturdied up with a 9.5" ACT converter. Spohned up rear suspension, Manual steering, HVACdelete

As far as track times and dyno numbers, none just yet, the motor's got bout 30 miles on it.

Personally i'm not a big fan of the AFR heads, for the money i'd run brodix.

Makaveli

even though this topic is a little old, it cant hurt to ask if anyone has any cam sound files with the 274? lol

TRAXION

I have a cam similar to the 274 ... it is 230/244. It's not a CC306 either. It has the 282's Xtreme intake lobe (230d) and the CC306's lazy exhaust lobe (244d). Mine is ground on 113LSA for a little more topend and a little nicer for when I install the Vortech. Sound file? Here's a quick movie of me starting up my car after a year. Open long tube headers. Idling at about 1100 (cold start).

http://www.celligent.com/tim/iroc/movies/wtf.wmv

Tim

1982chevycamaroz28

hey guys ive been lookin into cams right now, goin to get one after xmas and i was woundering would the xe274 be too much for my 305? i want this 305 to have a **** load of ***** to give the 350 guys a little run for there money. right now my car is at about 210 hp estimated (had someone do a dyno thingy on the computer) and after the cam im goin to get the hooker super comp long tubes also to help my sleeping giant awake.

but with the xe274 would i need a new torque converter also?


also TRAXION which cam is that u have and were can i find it?

oh yeah my list of mods are in my sig

Makaveli

i would advise against getting that big a cam for a 305.. i can be wrong though. a lot of people say the 268 is overkill for the 305, and then again the 274 is yet another step up from that.. but seeing you have stock heads is not what this cam is going to like.. and you might need a higher stall converter.. just some things to think about. im sure someone can explain it a helluva lot better than me

and traxion.. you car sounds wicked... lol, is that a roller cam u have? or a flat tappet?

kfoley

I'd reccomend the XE 262 cam for a 305. The 268, and especially the 274 are too big for a 305.

TRAXION

It's a hydraulic roller cam. I wanted a very aggressive intake lobe so the Xtreme Energy lobe offered by CompCams fit the bill. I picked a 230d Xtreme lobe because I wanted A LOT of duration ... something borderline streetable for a 350 motor. I wanted a lazy exhaust lobe because there is absolutely no need to open/close the exhaust so quickly. The 'standard high lift' lobe offered by CompCams fit the bill on this side. I picked the 244d lobe because I wanted a huge split pattern grind for whenever I install the Vortech Supercharger. I had it ground on a 113 for reasons previously stated. This is not an off-the-shelf cam. I called up internet racer's supply (Thunder Racing can do this too) and told them what I wanted. They custom ordered it from CompCams. There's a picture of the cam card in the link in my sig.

This grind is definitely borderline streetable due to the very low vacuum at idle. I'm at 65-70kPa at idle. That's crap. The roller hydraulics are more aggressive than their standard flat tappet counterparts. As an example - the 230 flat tappet is a 274 grind. The 230 roller is a 282 grind. That's 8 degrees of extra advertised duration with the roller cam. It's a big **** ... but fun as chit. I love this cam. High flowing heads, high stall, low gears, and MiniRam are recommended.

Tim

Beast5spdGTA

Guy with the 305, crane 2032 214/220 roller cam, gave me a nice lope at ~700-800 rpm. Also a stiff brake pedal occasionally, so I would say it's as big as you want to go on a daily driver. This was a modified TPI car.

Edit: You would definately need a higher stall. No Power below 1500 rpm at all.

1982chevycamaroz28

i was lookin into the crane cams but after hearin a few stories ive also looked into comp cams a bit not too much yet. but which company would be better for me to go to? also which is the biggest cam i could get from either company thats good for my 305 i dont want something really big but just big enuff for the 305.

1982chevycamaroz28

i was just lookin thru my new jegs right now and the xe262 cam is only 161.99 for the kit. and was lookin at the rpm difference and the comp cams xe262 goes just a bit higher in rpm and starts at 1300. and my car when im cruzin stays at about 2000 and up. (no overdrive TH350) also i was just lookin at the bottem of the page and they have installation kits for the 262 cam and it includes the camshaft, lifters, timing chains or gears, vavle springs, spring retainers and locks, vavle seals. and thats only 282.99 does that sound like a good deal for all of that? and are comp cams valve train stuff better then crane cams? ive heard crane cams stuff sux.

becuz for 300 bucks its not bad. becuz if i didnt look at that kit i probably would have went thru the cataloge and look for springs, lifters and all that fun stuff.

also how much more power would i get from this cam? just estimate if u guys could or if someone can do a desktop dyno thingy for me that woould be kool. becuz right now im at estiametd 210 hp but the person who did the desktop dyno didnt know what cam to put in since the cam i have in the car now is just better then the stock peanut cam.

kfoley

You will need to replace the lifters and springs anyways because the stock springs won't be able to take that big of a cam. While you're in there you might as well replace the timing chain too, so you might as well get the kit. Since you'll have the engine out you might look into porting the heads and if it's a high mileage engine, or the valves look pretty bad you should rebuild them while they're off. Sitting Bull has a thread about porting heads, it's not all that hard, I'm working on a set right now. If you follow his thread and use the XE262 cam, you should be looking at a little over 300hp.

1982chevycamaroz28

damn those are some nice numbers there. but iwas woundering since im not swapping the cam myself, im having a guy i know do it who works on drag cars alot and who used to own my car 10yrs ago, im goin to see if he can do it.

i was woundering is there any place i could send the heads to be ported and polished while he has the car? i wont be doing any of this until xmas is over by a month or so if im lucky.

also what alumin heads ould be good for a 305? ive been lookin in jegs and well im clueless what to look at gettin.

also if i dont port and polish my heads will that hurt me by alot? and right now i have stock manifolds but thats goin to change by next yr so im not worried about those.

also how much would u think it would be to have the heads rebuilt if say i have them sent to like napa auto and have them look them over clean them and what ever they do.

kfoley

Most performance machine shops will port heads, but it will be exspensive. You can do it yourself, it's pretty easy, all you need is a die grinder and the SA porting kit and some free time.
Aluminum heads are a waste on a 305 (IMO), if you're going to spend that kind of money , you might as well build up a 350, but if you have lots of money and want to spend it, you can pick up a set of AFR 190's w/1.94/1.60 valves (otherwise there is too much valve shrouding), but this will set you back about $1300. You could also look into World Products, Dart, Brodix, etc. and they have heads that will work with a 305.
By porting and polishing the heads, you can probably get 50 or more HP. If you leave them as cast it won't make much power and your cam will not be at it's full potential.
You should definitely get rid of the manifolds, they are very restrictive. Just about anything is better than them.
If I were you, I wouldn't take anything to NAPA for machine work. I would take it to a performance machine shop. NAPA doesn't exactly have a reputation for quality machine work. I priced it out one time and if you do a performance rebuild of the heads with all Manley and Comp Cams parts, you're looking at around $300 for parts plus whatever labor the machine shop costs, which my guess would be around $150-$200. (If you get the K-kit you would only spend about $180 since mos t the parts come with it) I'm sure it's a lot more than NAPA would charge, but it's worth it and NAPA wouldn't replace the stock parts with performance parts.

1982chevycamaroz28

so i guess it looks like ill ask the guy thats hopefully goin to do the swap after febuary time and see if he can have them sent and ported and polished. becuz i dont wanna spend 300 bucks for a cam kit that will only do half of its job becuz of my heads not being updated u could say.

and the manifolds will be gone as soon as i get 600 bucks for the hooker supercomp headers and have them ceramic coated. i know the manifolds are really killin me.

also how long would u say a performance shop would take to port and polish heads? becuz i wanna get the car ready before the track opens next, i think thats in april (englishtown) but i could be wrong on the month.

i just wanna give my brother 91 z28 a real good run for its money before he gets a better motor.

kfoley

It depends how much you want to pay. It could be a few days, could be a couple weeks, it depends on how extensive the porting is and what they have to do to rebuild them (shave, valve job, valve guides, etc.), and how busy they are.

1982chevycamaroz28

oh also another thing just poped in my head. what kinda stall converter will i need for this cam? and what gears will i need? becuz right now i think my car has 3.42's but not sure gotta check. but also i have a posi disk 9bolt sittin in my garge that i could use but what gears would i need for that if i get this cam? becuz i wanna try and do everything at once almost or have everything installed at once.

kfoley

The XE262 cam has an rpm range of 1300-5600ish. You could probably go with a 1500 stall, but that's pushing it, I'd go with a 2000 stall convertor (or better yet, get a 5 spd). 3.42 gears are fine for that cam, the minimum would be 3.23, so unless you can get a set of 3.73 gears they'll work fine. You might want to ask about the convertor on the tranny board, I'm not an auto guy so I'm just going by what others on the board have said.

1982chevycamaroz28

ok kool i think ill get the 2000 stall to be kinda on the safe said. also i dont think id get a 5 speed or 6 speed just yet. i know how to drive stick but im not good at it. i work for pepboys and i get the accasitonal (sp) car that is stick and i do fine with ti enless the car has basiclly no clutch to it or something else is wrong with it.

Makaveli

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=132288

thats a cool thread on the cam, well some of it, good info atleast. if the video still works through that webpage, you can hear wat it sounds like and how it idles in his car, but then agian he has a 5 speed, so his cam options are a little more flexible than with a stock auto trans car. if that link/video doesnt work, do a search for his name, because its hosted on a webpage somewhere around here.

89IRO

Hey I was wondering if anyone could give me the numbers on my stock cam that's in my '89 IROC-Z right now. It's a 350 TPI. Oh by the way, is my engine/cam a hydraulic roller?

Makaveli

yup, everything from 87 or 88 and up is a roller cam motor, in the camaros atleast, i know trucks of the same year always had flat tappets until 96 or so, but had provisions in the block for roller cams. so you should have a roller cam, and the specs of the cam would be:

duration: 202 207
lift: .404 .415
lobe separation: 114.5

found it on the tech data section of the site, its listed under 87, so id be pretty sure they used the same cam in 89, but i can be wrong. hope this helps hehe.

89IRO

O.K., once I have major problems with my engine (gotta just plan ahead with 200,000 miles on it), I am going to swap in a new engine. It is going to have to be the exact same engine I have now (2 bolt L98, cast pistons, crank) since I live in sucky California. Anyways, I was just thinking if I start fresh with that shortblock from GM, rebuild the origional heads and stuff it with crane cam, lifters, pushrods, springs, and rockers I'll be good to go (smog legal cam of course.) Oh and I'll be reusing my origional TPI manifold too. I've already got the exhaust done except for headers, of which I will be adding with the new engine. So how does this setup sound to everyone? The cam I've been looking into is part # 104224. Specs: Duation @ .050: 214/220, .452/.465 lift, and 112 degree lobe seperation. Does this cam sound like it'll work good for me in my brand new little 350 along with all the other stuff I listed above? Am I going to have a problem with vacum or whatever for a/c, heater, cruise control, braking and whatever else? Hopefully I won't have to do this for a long while, but I'm just board so I was planning for the future. Oh, and will this cam make my exhauset sound cooler? Tell me what you guys think, thanks. -89IRO

89IRO

I forgot to ask if this cam would be O.K. with my stock rear end. It's the origional borg-warner posi 2.77. Is this cam too wild for this rear? Oh by the way, it's a 700R4 tranny (overdrive of course.) And will my stock TC be O.K.? Thanks. -89IRO

Kiwi-85IROC

1982chevycamaroz28: This is the cam that apparently works for your engine. Its a summit cam #SUM-G5000.

Advertised duration: 268 intake/278 exhaust
Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 204 intake/214 exhaust
Gross valve lift: .420 in. intake/.442 exhaust
Lobe separation: 112 degrees


Here is the forum link:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...light=SUMG5000

Hope this helps.

Cheers mate

1982chevycamaroz28

i think the comp cams xe 262 cam kit is more resonably priced then spending 159 bucks for the summit cam. and i would get almost everything in the comp cams kit then the summit cam

Kiwi-85IROC

cc that...only that the comp cam will be too aggressive for your engine, whereas the cam I mentioned will give you a good horsepower increase without becoming undriveable.

1982chevycamaroz28

theres someone else on here that has the cam in a 305 and his car is a 5 speed also but he drives it on the street, so it shouldnt be anydifferent in my 305. but also if i had a TPI set up sure id get the summit cam but i dont have a TPI set up so i dunno what differences it would give me since my car is carbed and non-computer controlled.

i think ill just go with the comp cams becuz ive heard nothing but good things about the comp cams stuff and well so far i havent heard anything about the summit cam.

87TA 305TPI

im building a 350 motor right now with a forged bottom end and AFR 195 heads, im thinking of adding a power adder but nothing too crazy, maybe just a vortech centrif. supercharger and im kepping the flat pistons. would the xe 262 work in my case or would i go with something a little bigger like the xe268? i want to keep it streetable and i need to consider emissions. in chicago they dont check what parts you have in the car just the emissions coming out of the pipe, i know there are plenty of ways to cheat it but i dont want to hang myself by going to crazy on the engine. thanks

kfoley

I wouldn't go with a Xtreme cam with a blower. I'd go with one of Comp's blower cams. They have a wider LSA and have a little less duration. I'll check in my Scoggin Dickey catalog tonight and post what cams would be good.

87TA 305TPI

yeah but im not 100% sure on the blower yet so i wouldent want to get it setup for a blower, id rather leave the option open for myself, though i do here their N2O/blower cams give good power even without the blower, i was also looking at the hot cam from scoggin dickey, not sure though