Hodge

This post is intended to help those of us preparing to do an LT1 intake conversion. If you are curious about doing a conversion or just want to know more about it go to http://www.LT1intake.com. The information contained on that site along with the information in this post should get you well on your way to enjoying a new LT1 intake in your car. It should be noted that this list is a compilation of knowledge acquired from many members of this site and not just some stuff I threw up.


1. You will need to use a 94'-up LT1 intake due to the placement of the fuel rail crossover. Also, you cannot re-use the stock TPI fuel rail or fuel pressure regulator. Only the LT1 style fuel rail and AFPR can be used (1994-97).

2. The EGR ports on stock TPI cast iron heads are not fully covered by the LT1 intake. Material can be added to the intake to remedy this. Most aftermarket heads either don't have the EGR passages or they are smaller and fully covered by the intake. L98 aluminum heads fall into the category of no EGR passages.

3. Some sensor wires need to be extended to reach their new locations. Simply soldering a piece of wire in is all it takes to do this. The ones that may need to be extended are the MAT, coolant temp sensor and MAP (if equipped) Some people have also needed to extend the IAC and TPS

4. If you have an Automatic Trans you'll need to use the throttle cable bracket from a 93' LT1 because it is the only one that has provisions for the TV cable. (Or fab up your own, of course) It's easier to use the '93 Z28 TV cable in applications of an automatic transmission. If you are good with a grinder you can get the cruise control linkage cable to sit correctly in the 93 LT1 throttle bracket, but you will have to shim the linkage somewhat.

5. 89'up throttle bodies linkages are different and have some trouble clearing the front coolant fittings. John M. has started putting the coolant fittings in the rear of the intake so this should no longer be a problem. Napa sells a shorter hose fitting for those using front coolant passages, which will allow for more clearance for the TB

6. You can use the stock TPI throttle body

7. Most people have used a Felpro 1205 intake gasket with great success.

8. The Aeromotive AFPR does fit. The fit is very close however. The TPIS AFPR fits and clears the distributor with no problems. $50 for hat or $100 for regulator + hat

9. The LT1 intake sits a few inches LOWER than the TPI. The TPI air intake tubing works but the path becomes less straight because it must travel down to the lower height of the LT1.

10. Be sure to mount the remote T-stat housing below the level of the radiator cap so as to prevent air from being trapped in the housing.

11. The LT1 intake cannot be easily modified to fit Vortec heads. Lots of welding would be required.


12. Weiand remote T-stats #'s7134P (polished) and 7134 (unpolished) are recommended. Offenhauser also offers one. The Offenhauser part number is 5308. It is the same as the Weiand unit but not available in polished form which are getting hard to come by since the people that polished for Weiand broke the contract. The Offenhauser housing is cheaper also in price, not quality.

13. Use thread sealeant on the distributor hold down bolt or you will have an oil leak.

14. LT4 intake may be used with Vortec/Fastburn type heads, but needs light port matching. In order for the LT4 intake to fit the Vortecs, the heads need to be drilled with a standard bolt pattern. This would be much easier and cheaper than welding material to the intake. The Fast Burn heads already have both bolt patterns drilled from the factory.However, the cost of the LT4 intake is quite high in comparison to the LT1 intake.

15. LT1's and LT4's utilize the same ('94-'97) fuel rails


PLEASE: This post is for informational purposes. If you have a question about LT1 intake conversions please create a new post.

Thanks to everyone who offered input while this post was being put together. Your help is greatly appreciated by all of us.

MODS: Could we get this post sticky and possibly closed? This is a very popular subject in this forum and should help many people improve the performance of their cars.

edit: corrected #13, RTV is not the same as thread sealant and shouldn't be used as such.

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

Ed, I have to chime in here. Please don't make comments on the board on what you feel without facts. If you have numbers then post them. You cannot just say "it SEEMS like ALOT of folks" are having "serious problems" with the LT1 conversion. You only hear ALOT of complaining from the FEW people that ran into trouble.

I have numbers and I will share, you cannot possibly know how many people couldn't complete the swap because of issues.

Here's the data:

Year to date I have sold 54 LT1 intake conversions. Of those 54 I have had 8 complaints. Most were settled, read below.

1. An aftermarket throttle body throttle cam hitting the coolant fitting (drivers side). The customer shipped the TB to me, I corrected it and shipped it back no charge (free shipping).

2. New intake bolt holes do not perfectly line up with head bolt holes. Customer returned intake, I corrected and returned no charge (free shipping).

3. LT1 intake did not cover water and EGR ports on ported aftermarket heads. Customer returned intake and I sent a refund.

4. Same as #3

5. Customers block was decked alot and intake did not properly line up at all. Only solution was to machine intake mating surface, I could not do that so customer returned intake and I refunded money.

6. Customer ordered an intake drilled for early intake bolt pattern. I sent intake as ordered, customer deceides to change to late style heads and attempts to correct pattern on one hole only. He also port matches the intake to the newer heads. Later finds out the aftermarket heads are ported and have enlarged water ports so the LT1 intake cannot cover the ports. Customer contacts me and we discuss problem. I agree to buy the intake back even after he started enlarging the intake bolt holes. I do tell him there's a 25% re-stocking/repairing fee since he messed with the intake, after all I would have to correct the intake before re-selling it. It was also port matched to his heads. Customer refused to pay the re-stocking fee. (go ahead and port match a HSR and enlarge the intake bolt holes, then see if Holley will even take it back)

7. Customers intake would not cover aftermarket head water port. Customer takes intake to local welder and pays $70 to extend the intake mounting flange. Fits well now.

8. Customers intake does not cover water ports in head. Intake was powdercoated to welding extra material wasn't possible, it would destroy the powdercoating. Vustomer returned intake and I shipped him another converted intake (bare). He had it welded and installed (as far as I know).

Ed Maher

John, thanks for being forthright about the issues you have seen. But IMO, 8 out of 54 (15%) is a fairly high rate of problems. And half of those problems could have (and may very well have been if not caught immediately) catastrophic (coolant in oil = a bad time). And the 2 fitment problems (bolt holes and decked block) also could have been potentially weird if the customer wasn't on the ball.

And thats why IMO trying to save maybe $100 or so on swapping an LT1 intake vs. buying an HSR doesn't make sense. Granted the first run of HSRs had issues too, but that should have been corrected by now. A swapped LT1 intake seems to have nearly a 1 in 10 chance of dumping coolant into your oil and wiping your bearings shortly thereafter if you dont catch it on time. And one of the guys with the problem was Free Bird who has a ZZ4, and i don't think AL L98s qualify as an exotic aftermarket head, so apparently it could potentially happen to anyone. Then you add in the potential for the dizzy to eat it's gear, or the cam and spread metal through the engine. Also possible if you don;'t get everything right. And if you can screw up bolt holes, i'm sure the same can happen to the dizzy hole. That would also make for a bad time. And even if one of these problems pop up and the installer is good and finds it before there is any damage, it's still no fun to be in the middle of a project with a bad part. Admittedly, any company you pick may have suck QC, but still, the water passage thing seems like a design issue. And the EGR port thing surely is. And a minor nit is also having the CTS so far from the engine. I know with some bypass holes you'll still have constant flow, but seems like a potential gremlin.

Thats all. If saving a few bucks and checking your work is the plan, then go for it. I never claimed to have numbers, but i knew damn well i had read more than a few problems, including i think 3 of those coolant leaks into the crankcase, which is the worst one by far anyway. 3 people nearly blowing their engines up is A LOT of problems in my world at least by magnitude. Other nitpicking is just noise that adds to it.

I'm not trying to bash you, just interprettng the data you gave, since it seems pretty bad to me.

edit: holy **** there are a lot of posts in this. I'll delete the rest of the junk later, this is taking too long now. BTW, what i meant about people not reading stickies is that you still end up with almost the same number of dumb questions.

Bort62

Just to Play Devil's Advocate... Whats the Total Miles under all the Problem free LT1 Intakes Out there ?

Improper dist alignment may not show up in Cam gear wear for 15,000-20,000 Miles. Hell it Might cause any appriciable wear untill 60,000. But If I had to Change my Cam at 25k Miles Because My Intake was slightly out of alignment, I would be a little annoyed.

I highly doubt anyone has gone that Far with one yet.

Have They ?

Its one thing to Design a part that Lasts 5k Miles. Its another to design one wich will make it 500,000.

rockind78

I noticed some people expressing how they feel abou the way the mods treat them, so I thought I would chime in here. I will definitely say that Mr. Maher and Mr. _roc aren't the nicest people in this forum (not by a long shot), in fact, they can be quite rude (bear with me here, ther is a point coming), but at least in all my cases, even when they were dumb questions, and they were asses about it, THEY WERE VERY HELPFUL, and with me, that's really the bottom line. What Ed refers to above is a good example.

Bort62

Well Put. That really is the Bottom line.

If you want someone to Sugarcoat everything and be sensative to your feelings, Go ask Mom why your car won't start.

Odyssey

This customer was me. The way I see it, enlarging one of the bolt holes to fit late model heads was not something as bad you make it sound. The way I see it, it's just saving you time. All you would have to do is finish enlarging the other 3 holes and send it to another customer that's been waiting for one for the last 5 weeks (like I have). The ports were port matched to a 1205 FelPro gasket. Woopty doo... that's very custom.

Bottom line is... the intake cost 400 dollars. Paying you $100 dollars AND shipping back to you because it didnt fit (not because of my mistake) was outrageous. This is a brand new intake that you could have sold to someone else easily.

I still have the intake collecting dust in my garage... What a waste of 600 dollars that was...

4L60bliss

LT1 intakes aren't for everyone, just like Rogaine. If it didn't fit, you should have sent it back LIKE YOU GOT IT. I think John has a very liberal return policy when it comes to fitment problems, however, NOBODY will accept a "damaged" product. Call summit an tell them that you enlarged some bolt holes and port matched the intake to a FelPro gasket and that you would like to return it and see what they say.

As far as the distributer alignment, there are two factors that will change the dist. angle: The oil pump shaft (its not going to move) and the location of the dist. hole. since each intake was cut using a template from a TPI intake, the hole is correct. Its not like he just guessd and drilled where he could.

As far as the intake not fitting, thats just something you'd have to deal with. Had you not altered it, you would have had your money back. I have a pair of headers that I had to file flat to get to seal. I have a set of AS&M runners that I can't get to seal. I have a 9.5" Converter I had to send back after 3 months of use because the lockup quit working. Its all part of hotrodding. If you can't deal with that, buy honda.

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

It's all part of the game. If you don't like ripping your car apart then, you are in the wrong hobby. I plan on pulling my heads, changing cams and torque convertors a couple more times each before I'm done, and that's just to see what gains I can get.

Sometimes experience is your best teacher.

Odyssey

Too bad John isnt Jegs or Summit though. He should be able to be more flexible then them. And lets not forget we're dealing with a USED product in the first place. He's not using brand new intakes for this...

rockind78

Odyssey,

I am sure you have learned before this point, that once in awhile you get a raw deal (open to interpretation). Trust me when I tell you it happens to all of us. I just got taken for a ride by a fellow thirdgenner myself for $70 (U know who you are...thanks again), of which I could recover NONE of it. My advice would be sell the intake back to John, get what you can (heck..200-250 sounds good to me) and move on considering it a learning experience. Then use the money to buy a nice Xmas present for family or signigficant other, or whatever.

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

Just post the intake on the classifieds, somebody will buy it.

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

There's really nothing about the intake that affects distributor angle. The distributor is located by the bore in the engine block, that's all.
If the hole in the intake isn't in the right place, the distributor won't go in. Ask me how I know.........

Bort62

Haha John.

4L60bliss

OK, thats fair game, BUT, say you bought a tranny from summit. Tell them you didn't like how it shifted so you put a shift kit and now you want to return it. You CANNOT buy a NEW 700R-4. Any 700 you see for sale, wether it be a Pro-built, a Raptor, or whoever, but they were all at one time USED. Does an intake with 30,000 miles not perform as well as an intake right out of a GM box?

We could go back and forth untill the end of time, and beleive it or not, I'm not trying to butt heads with you, but nobody in there right mind, not a small buisness, large corporation, or a private individual would offer a full refund on an item that has been altered, if even a refund at all.

Bort62

Unless Of course that He was in some Manner assured that it would fit his heads.

But I really think its is a lame arguement. John can do whatever he wants, its his buisness. I personally would not be desuaded from purchasing from him because of this.

btheri3

Would you folks have even heard of the LT1 intake if not for John's pioneering work?

Odyssey, did you not know that you had the option to send John an intake for him to modify? It's not like a new intake would make nickle's worth of difference anyway. The important part is the modifications he performs. What good would a NEW stock LT1 intake do you in the first place?

A waste of six hundred dollars? Just sell the thing and recoup some of you loss.

It's unfortunate yours did not work out, but I certainly think the LT1 intake should not be discredited nor John's work.

John, I'd like to personally thank you for all of your contributions- your website, your recent reply to my inquiry, and your eagerness to resolve problems.

It's a shame that people are going to attack you after all that you have brought to light...

It just irratates me....

Ben.

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

You can please some of the people some of the time but you will NEVER please all of the people all of the time.

This applies to any business..........

89Irocz23

I dont see why yall are gaining up on him. **** happens and thats life I think he is being pretty fair on his stuff.

Chris Etemadi

its working for me and Im happy with it. (although since i still have no transmission i just sit in it while it idles. But I have had no problems with coolant in my oil.

Bort62

Ahh John, You Quoth Bob Marley

Now you See the light... Standup for your rights.

Omega

iTrader: (1)

John,

Could you be more specific with the heads that are causing problems? I plan on using the LT1 intake with a set of Sportsman II's and would like to know if they are going to give me problems.

S10Wildside

I give John a lot of credit for being willing to do this sort of work. Because the nature of this hobby (sport, or whatever) involves custom applications and aftermarket parts, he is sure to have some bad experiences with customers. Even if I had the equipment necessary to do the work, I wouldn't offer this service to others because I don't have the time and money (shipping, etc) to deal with problems. Kudos to you, John, for the way you've handled the few problems you've had.

Not enough intakes have yet been modified to say there is a high failure rate. We'll have to see how more than 54 total intake swaps go before saying there is a significant failure rate. But that's pretty relative...some may say 8 out of 54 is significant.

I'll be getting my motor back from the machine shop this Saturday. My LT1 intake will be bolted to a set of Pro Topline "Iron Lightning" heads. I requested that the coolant ports (all four corners) have a bit of aluminum added to have a better seal. I'll provide pics and more info about my motor in another thread after this weekend. John, you'll probably be adding to your list one more set of heads that work fine with the LT1 intake.

Astro

Odyssey, if what John says is true, then the problem is your fault. If you change head styles and dont let him know, of course it wont fit, hes not a mind reader. You should have let John know when you changed head styles, and then you could have discussed options before trying to fix it yourself.

My LT1 intake works very well, the only minor problem i had, was the stock intake elbow didnt fit, as the LT1 is about 2 inches lower, and one TB length further ahead then the stock TPI intake. So i just ordered a RU5004 K&N filter, and switched over to SD (which I was going to do at some point anyways).

Overall, Im very happy with the intake John supplied to me. As for your problem, deal with it, if you made changes like that then its your responsibility.

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't count as 8 failures since 4 of them were resolved and are operational. That's called "customer support".

That only leaves 4 out of 54 as "failures".

S10Wildside

I agree, 8 wasn't really an accurate number. I'm all for the LT1 intake swap. I'll be sure to give you an update on my conversion when it's done.

RCR

Don't forget those of us that have done our own

Besides, there are two people that are happy with my LT1 swap. Me, and MonteSS, who bought my TPI.

Peace...

Iroc n roll

I think I can say, being one of the first of those 54, that John has been very helpful and understanding. I'll admit, when I got the intake, the bolt holes sucked and I had to match them myself. But it was one of his first tries, and they were in the right general area, just a few millimeters off from correct. For this error he offered me a chip to shut off the EGR (which reminds me John, you've got mail). There alot of horse **** being thrown around concerning this swap. For the last time, the manifold does not alter the way the distributer meshes with the cam gear. I don't know who's been having trouble with their coolant housing but the lines are pressurized people, anywhere under that hood should suffice (laterally...also, good luck trying to mount the damn thing higher than the fill cap). And when did people start using a distributer hold down bolt? I have a nut I screw onto a stud that welded or other wise well sealed. John, did you change that design?

On a side note, this swap isn't as cheap as it seems either. Sure it's only $100 for modification, but there's a lot more to it.

1)Manifold and fuel rails - I got mine for just $100, but some have paid $200-$400
2)Modifying fuel lines - about $80
3)That damn weiand piece - $70 (tax, shipping and such if I remember correctly)
4)Coolant lines - These are expensive $60-70
5)Gaskets - $20
6)AFPR - You really should have one $100
7)Some coolant - $5-$10
8)ARP small head bolts - about $20 (tax shipping and such)
9)If you're an ******* like me a decide to do this on an 85...a new distributer and coil - about $150
10)misc parts you break, bolts, food, beer, a full day of time, vacuum lines, wires, junk yard trips, cut hands, bruised knuckles, wrenches flung and lost across room....j/k...its not that bad.... maybe another 100 bucks.

This is getting close to $1000 here isn't it? Depending on your application and how good of a deal you get on that manifold. But all in all I still think I made the right choice. It's STILL really cool and poeple's jaws drop when the see an LT1 in and Iroc-Z...WITH A DISTRIBUTER! It's custom. It's cool. If you want somthing easy that anyone can and will do this isn't for you. This is for someone who loves their car and want to build somthing a little custom themselves. But on that note (almost done here guys ) John was always very helpful with all my dumb questions on coolant routing, adapting the new distributer, and so on. He's a good guy.

PS. John, I didn't realize you kept such good records. Has anyone else tried this on an 85 (or 85-87 for that matter)? Which number was I? Did you keep an order? Just thougt it might be kinda cool, kinda like how people know which number their TTA was.

jrg77

If one does the intake mod/swap is there any advantage/disvantage with using the LT1 ECM as well? For a TPI this may not be an issue, but for one coming in from a carb...

Jason

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

No, you cannot use the LT1 computer. That computer won't recognize or even connect to a HEI distributor. Use a TPI computer and harness.

N8MAN1068

the fact that hex key intake bolts should be stressed as well.
i haven't had a chance (nor figured an easy way) to take my intake back off after i had already rtv'd it down.
the 2 driver middle intake bolts dont seem to want to go in, everything looks fine.
john sent me some emails with suggestions, it's just hard to get time to go and work on the car.

89Formula5.7

I did the the conversion myself, communicating with John the whole time, and am VERY pleased with the results. not everything went smoothly, but I didn't expect it to. John addressed any questions or concerns promptly and clearly. I bought the parts I needed and got my PROM burned by John. I for one, am a very satisified customer.

Chris89GTA

iTrader: (2)

I wish my swap had worked out better, but I could never get it to seal right. The 1206 gasket, w/ the 1206 port on the head and intake never sealed right.

no complaints, no dissing, its a great swap for the money and i would try it again if I thought it would work out...

John is a great guy to work w/ and great service...

86IROCTHD

its amazing how every one can complain about a product that doesnt end up how they "planned" if u wanted something to go as planned replace it with stock replacement parts... but modified parts its kinda hit and miss there is to much stuff out there to make it fit everything on the market. remember i BET he is modding the intakes based on a STOCK set of heads and STOCK block and what not... i work at a dealership.... and thats like some kid comming in and having a cold air intake/exhaust put on his *****.... and it not making his car as fast as he wants..or him going through a puddle of water and it sucking up water and stalling out the motor..... and then coming back and wanting us to refund the money.... WTF .. when u mod your car its not always gonna work thats why its called a mod NOT STOCK... if u buy a cam and it doesn produce the HP that say comp cams told u are u gonna call them and have them buy it back? NO u are gonna order a new one and sell the old one... i dont think john is gonna buy every head out there and make sure the intake is gonna fit.... him returning the intake at a full refund if it doesnt fit is fair enough... i am about to have this swap.... and i will give him all specs on the block work and the head specs so that he can get it as close to perfect as he can and if he cant i will just deal with it when i get there but dont think there will be a problem..... but stop bashing his work... i dont see anyone else out there trying to step in and help him out giving ideas as to how to improve the QC not saying he has 2... but geez.... he just started making them... just like everything that is made out there there will be bugs and the fact that he is willing to fix them is great.... but yea just my .02 any ways john i will be shipping my intake out after the new year... i need to get my heads first ....

Chris89GTA

iTrader: (2)

I sure hope that wan't directed at me.

I tried the swap, I worked w/ John throughout the process, and it just didn't work. I worked on the setup everyday for 2.5 weeks, after work everyday, and all day every day on the weekend, to work w/ what he provides to make it work on my setup. I did this to no avail. Others have tried and it works out great for them. Good for them. I am happy they got it to work.

John does a good job, and in my post I pointed that out. It didn't work for me. It didn't work for my buddy. In that I won't try it again, but I wouldn't tell someone not to.

You are right, this modding area of our car lives often comes w/ less return than expected. It happens. Some will come off better than others; it happens.

But don't come out here bashing people for relaying their experience where it didn't work. That is what is good about the internet, people can discuss pros and cons, and in that sense little things that happen bad to some people can be passed on.

I emailed John w/ my problems and experiences to help him on other similar projects in the future.

Heck neither me nor my buddy asked for anything back from John, and neither did my buddy, b/c I know he did the best he could to help us out, and to make it right. Its a modding scene where you spend and sometimes lose out. Something I accepted a long time ago...

DON 88T/A

In the end its all just cutting corners..there are intakes out there that work for a price..if you can't afford it and want to "rig" something..then you get what you get....your taking the risk and its yourself to blame if it does not work....

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

What we have learned is that the LT1 intake cannot be ported to a 1206 and be expected to work on SBC heads.
The problem with the LT1 intake is there isn't much material around the ports to allow for that much porting and be expected to seal.

Chris89GTA

iTrader: (2)

Totally agreed John. When matched there is just not that much material around the ports to give it a clamping force...

jrg77

So does this mean that it won't work with AFR heads? If I understand correctly they require 1206 gaskets.

Jason

Chris89GTA

iTrader: (2)

AFRs are normally a 1205 IIRC as w/ the TFS heads. I had my heads opened up to the 1206 to match the intake. My buddy has ported AFRs w/ a 1206 gasket and he tried the LT1 first, then I got it from him to try. Neither of us had luck w/ the 1206...

But it should be a 1205 normally...

86IROCTHD

no chris that wasnt directed towards u... i read your post and saw and understood the fact that both u and john tried to work out the bugs/problems but i am talking about the people that are not happy with some one trying to help fix the problems that arose with mods or performance parts... nuthing was directed to anyone really just trying to state that there are gonna be problems/miss haps (sp) with any mod that u do,, its really not johns fault nor is it the installers it just happens...some things u just cant mix but we all cant expect for john to know all this right now... mabye later down the road he can have a list and what not to show what will and will not work... .. thats just how it is..... there are alot of peeps that need to understand what i have and what u have by what u stated "Its a modding scene where you spend and sometimes lose out. Something I accepted a long time ago..." those words are golden in the performance scene.... i am not trying to bash anyone at all... all info is great... so i am sorry if it came off that way...... :hail:

Chris89GTA

iTrader: (2)

Ain't no deal...

John one thing that I would suggest for future reference, is to on the driver's side, where the PCV holes are, take and clearance the side of the intake area if someone is going to be using this intake on early style heads. I had a major issue w/ getting bolts in and out of the holes b/c they ran straight into the side of the intake, and had to clearance it some w /a grinder. I don't know how much you can take out, but a little out of the PCV areas would be a major help on those old angle bolts.

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

Chris, better make mention that I didn't sell you this intake. You bought it from a customer of mine. He had ordered the late style intake bolt pattern for his centerbolt AFR 190's almost 2 1/2 years ago.

If you had ordered an intake I would have drilled it and clearanced it for your pre '86 early style bolt pattern. It would have been a direct bolt on. You wouldn't have had this "major issue".

Chris89GTA

iTrader: (2)

True... I did forget to mention that.

And maybe I shouldn't have said it was a major issue b/c it was nothing a grinder couldn't and didn't fix...

I should have had him get you to drill it for the early style when we sent it back for the updates.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

wow! any of you guys install the stealth ram? even that sucker needs work. ant the stock throttle bracket is said to work (right in the instructions) well it fits like ----. the thing is on a good angle it will wear out the cables if I leave it like that.

the 89-up guys have to clearance the fuel rails for the throttle body lever

the thing hits the hood on the firebirds and even many camaros. for get it if you have a vette

the shrader valve is not the standard size gm uses

the fuel rails like to leak and the fuel regulators seem to take dumps left and right

the plenum gaskets don't line up with the hole right but, you can use them anyway if you are real carful
the list goes on and on

shaggy56

What exactly has to be done to a LT1 fuel rail for it to be compatible with some stainless braided AN lines I have? Do I need special fittings or do the fuel rails need something welded?

S10Wildside

You can modify the rails to accept tube nuts and sleeves. I've done several of these. You'll need -5 and -6 tube nuts and sleeves. You'll also need a -6 to -6 union and a -6 to -5 reducer. The flare is 37 degrees, not the same as your standard flare tool. I have all the supplies necessary.

shaggy56

I have a 37 degree flare tool as well as a 45 so no problem there. I figured to do that but I dont have a LT1 intake to work on now. Im pricing around to see whats the best bang for one. Im working with older style heads so I will have to do the conversion. Im still wondering exactly what has to be done to the mounting bolts to get them line up properly to my heads and for them to properly seat right.

batchfire

where could i get something like that done to some lt1 fuel rails
(i have a stealth ram now with -6 lines and i dont want to change
those) i am going to swap to a lt1 intake soon I cant get my stealthram
to stop leaking oil out of the china wall and it does not seal up good around the intake ports

Iroc n roll

Ditch the china walls and just use a good bead of RTV instead. Make sure you RTV around the coolant ports too and it should seal up like a champ. I personally won't use RTV anywhere else on the gasket. I'll coat it with copper spray or hi-tack or something instead, but its your call. I don't know if its worth the work the work to go SR to LT1 if the thing is already up and running. Stick with the SR and see if you can get it to seal right.