FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

Not ranting below, just saying how I see it.

I can see why some people go with the rustoleum stuff. Not having experience painting a car, choosing all the materials alone can be a very daunting task. I have been reading off and on for the last 3 years at least on painting at home. Every article or thread I have read is either too high level or jumps around on different paint types without ever finishing a thought. Its like people have ADD. They will say something like get PPG paint and it'll be great!!! Ok, what kind of paint? Enamel, urethane, water borne (eh, no), lacquer, Acrylic lacquer, etc. I have seen articles that jump back and forth throughout the article about primer instead of just saying what to use and get to the point. And argue with themselves about which to use, to sealer or not.

How about something like a recipe? With a paint type good for a first time painter? Just good solid detailed advice on one paint type at a time.

1) What is easiest for first timer (we can't be choosy on best paint - just easy for now)
2) What to buy
3) What to put on first
4) What to do between coats
5) Mixing ratios and effects of temp chart.
6) etc

I even bought a book on painting for first timers and they had ADD so bad I think I was in danger of developing ADD at 50 yrs old trying to follow it. Whats wrong with a section for each paint type start to finish? I already know the high level overview - bodywork, primer, paint.

Does anyone have a good link to step by step painting for a first time painter? Name of a good book?

For all you pro painters out there - WRITE A BOOK PLEASE. Make some money on that.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

standard base coat clear coat systems are a urethane based paint. acrylic and lacquer are old school single stage (no clear coat required). waterborne just is a more enviro friendly way to paint that a lot of pro places are switching too. instead of oil based paint with solvents, it uses, you guessed it, a water based paint.

everything is based on skill, budget, how much upkeep youre willing to do.

theres a TON of info on the net about painting. from techniques to paint choices to gun setup.

its up to you to do the research, there is no "step by step guide to painting YOUR car" because all cars are different. id advised going to a local paint shop and just talking to the painter(s). then get a cheap gun and start practicing.

but basically all paint jobs have the same basic steps.
1 strip off old paint (if youre going to bare metal)
2 do all metal work/body work
3 properly mask off everything you dont want painted
4 prime, guide coat, block, prime, guide coat, block (do as many as it takes to get the panels straight if you want a good looking finish)
5 spray down a sealer (if you choose to use one)
6 spray paint
7 spray clear if youre using a bc/cc
8 let dry
9 wet sand
10 buff to a mirror finish.

haps

iTrader: (4)

http://www.paintucation.com/
http://www.autobody101.com/content/

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

I am lucky on this car. The body has absolutely no rust. Not even surface rust. No dents to deal with other than door dings.

I have to disagree that all cars are different. Once the body work is done and it is time to start shooting primer, they are all the same. Its the painter and the painters skills, and the intended outcome that are different.

I am not setup to work quick nor do I have the experience to work quick. Come to think of it, I don't have the time in big chunks to work quick either. I need a forgiving paint. I have read that you have to paint the BC/CC in a timed fashion. I am concerned about starting that, messing something up and having to let it dry to sand it out. Now I am out of the time schedule.

Already bought a HVLP gun 1.3/1.8 tips. Have had the compressor for many years. I can do body and get a pro finish (takes me longer but I'm patient). Many sites have good info on grades of sandpaper to use and when between coats. Plenty of info on filler types that are best. I have an excellent sheetmetal mig and a lot of experience with it.

The info I am finding hard to find is definitive answers on what type of paint to use. I have NO experience with paint. Such as one guy at work said to use lacquer. He said it is more work to put on, but it is more forgiving since you can wet sand between coats and lay on another and at the end sand and polish.

Now IF that info is good and I went lacquer, What type of primer to use. When sanding my car I have no doubt that I'll hit metal in a few spots. So what type of primer to use on metal (and any prep chemicals before that) and do I seal it just before painting.

So
1) Pre primer prep chemical (due to some bare metal?)
2) What primer type - Acrylic?
3) High build primer - sure to be same as primer
4) Sealer or not
5) Paint type - (for this example lacquer)
6) Clear coat at end? What type?

I want everyone to understand that I do not expect y'all to do my legwork for me. I am just pointing out a very big unorganized hole in the body paint process. The only thing I asked is does anyone have a link. Thanks Haps.

I have noticed there are two types of books on programming (I am a developer). There are those that tell you the theory behind it and get all long winded on its history and talk about 0s and 1s and blah blah blah. Then there are those that give just the facts. Starts with a chart showing options, you choose an option based on criteria, then go to chapter whatever and look at steps on how to do it.

Its the primer/paint/chemicals to use that are compatable with each other and will stick to the car info that I am trying to find.

Now to look at the links.

zenish

i wonder if this is just video taken from the 'trucks' show?

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

Hap,

Have you ever used these videos?

haps

iTrader: (4)

I haven't, although I do follow his TV shows and he (Kevin) clearly know the basics, plus he appears to be a good teacher. I understand that you want a clear process without deviation. You won't get it. Everybody does it differently, much like writing a sub-routine, each person has there own way. The outcome is typically the same. Research is your friend and you'll never find its end. The other thing you must know is that painters are prima donnas. Their way is always the best and other are just shyte. Having said that, there is a basic path and travis' is good. I typically do:
-bare metal
-etch prime
-2k prime(Marhyde, Evercoat Uro fill)guide coat, sand, prime again, lather, rinse, repeat
-I don't seal anything (point of contention with others)
-base/clear(Spies base stays open forever if your concerned with a time line) I use anything by reputable paint manufacturers. I typically don't single stage or lacquer anything.

For custom work, that process gets tweaked accordingly. See if you can find a guy with lots of gray hair that doesn't mind you looking over his shoulder. Lots can be learned that way. Oh yes, also, don't forget to practice before you spray. Find a filing cabinet, road sign, etc. that you can learn with. You'll see lots of practicing on third gens on this site with disastrous results. Look for a thread started by Mark58(?). He was a bit of a rook and ended up with what appear to be excellent results.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

kevin does the videos as a side project. its not officially affiliated with the Trucks! tv show. although he has showcased clips and such on the show before.

haps

iTrader: (4)

Here's that thread by 58Mark Fal.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

i still havent made it to a meet to see his car in person, but mark is a great guy, and did great work on that car.

lmidden

when i was painting a ca with laquer i used rustoleum primer that i got from autozone and duplicolor paintshop finish paint car turned out decent the only problem i had was it was to hot so the paint was going on the car to dry

travis401

iTrader: (1)

the duplicolor paint shop paint is great for a beginner to practice with since its cheap, and ready to spray out of the can. i wouldnt use it for anything i dont plan on stripping and repainting shortly afterward though. lacquer is a single stage old school paint (think fords model A's were painted with black lacquer) and requires a lot of upkeep to keep it looking like glass. and you cant paint over it with a newer urethane bc/cc without problems, you have to strip it all off.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

Been reading Marks thread mentioned above.

One concern I have as a first time painter is buying expensive paint and screwing it up. Rather get some good paint at a good price and not the best paint that is more expensive. I am topping out at 500. Total. And I need sweeps out of that. I could go a little higher if I buy preps and sweeps now and paint later. Keeping in mind that there is almost no body work to be done - just peeling clear to contend with.

I'll remove hatch, hood, handles and locks, rear lights, sweeps, and gfx. And then on to prep. Not taking doors off and staying with same color - red. This will be a daily driver not a show car and I won't mind polishing twice a year max.

Just trying to get my feet wet and have a better looking work car.

Based on above should, in your opinion, should I try for BC/CC or a single stage?also, I will need to drive this car some if down more than a week so I am thinking I'll need a sealer at the end of a block of time. To be finished within a month Max. Sound reasonable?

haps

iTrader: (4)

If it's a non-metallic then you could do a single stage. BC/CC anything else, it's more forgiving if you have too much mottling. Drive it only after you've completed the "2k" primer stage. Nason is an inexpensive mid-grade paint.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

if the paint underneath is in good shape and its just the clear coat your having a problem with. you can always give the car a good sand with 1000grit and feather out the clear coat edges and just respray the clear. itd be WAY cheaper than a full on job, and more forgiving.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

Good deal. There will not be metallic in the paint. I can be down that long as I have a truck to drive. But it doesn't fit in the parking garage so it sits on the street. I'll look up Nason.

I'll just use this thread to document everything for posterity. Hopefully it will turn into a "paint your car cheap using auto paint thread. Pics in a little while of what I am starting with including gun.

The compressor is an upright craftsman 6.5 hp 30 gallon.

Sprayer is an Arturo HVLP gravity gun w / aluminum cup low cfm 5-7. Available tip sizes, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.7, 2.0,)

Although the web page says 5-7, the instructions that came with it says 3-3.9 avg cfm. approx. $130. I have a 1.3 and 1.8 tip. Gun is new never used.
http://www.paintsprayersplus.com/pro...-AutoWood.html

I guess i'll have to get a regulator that goes on the inlet of the gun.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

there are a few door dings to fix and the usual 3 or 4 rock pecks on the hood and lets not forget about the bicycle scrapes that no one ever did it was already there . Paint is also thin behind the t-tops. Playing around I hit it with a little 500 and went to primer almost immediately. Yea, base coat is not good enough for that.

haps

iTrader: (4)

These are the posts I don't understand. The clear on Fal's car is failing, why would one want to feather it back and re-clear over a failing clear and possibly faulty base coat? He'd end up with a terrible looking result and one that is bound to fail in the short term.

The clear and the base need to be stripped. Simple as that. If I'm spending $500, I want to get the most for my money. /prima donna

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

If I need to strip the base all over then that's what I will do. I just want whatever I put on there to stick like 3M weatherstrip does to your fingers. I want to do everything right - but on a budget as much as possible. I had to give up getting a trans am hood because of other costs. Just go with what I have.

I went out and looked at the 3 or 4 rock chips on the front and they magically multiplied into about 100. Yes, I do need new glasses - even the trifocals aren't helping anymore. Gotta take them off and stick my nose on the car to see.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

the OP stated its a DD and hes not going for a show car finish. just something that will look decent and wont break the bank. and hes inexperinced with painting.

just repsraying the clear its easy, and if you get runs, drips, trash, orange peel, its more forgiving to remove those imperfections. and for $75 for a gallon of clear, its a lot cheaper than a full on repaint. will the respray pop like the original clear? possibily, but itll atleast look good for a lil while while he learns and practices the proper techniques for a full on repaint.

but its moot point since his BC is screwed.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

Here is what I'm starting with



It has a newly rebuilt 350 TPI from an 89 IROC, bored with flattops, small comp cam, new everything (was not done on a budget - I don't do mechanical on a budget or rig ANYTHING) wiring harness was used and I cut no wires - everything was re-pinned by me, info from here and a pile of schematics from All Data - all emissions were swapped as factory. Complete new frontend from close ratio steering box out to the wheel bearings and hubs, brakes, complete IROC suspension and the wonder bar and power steering cooler. The IROC rear diff. In the past two weeks I put in black leather seats from a GTO - front and rear, console from a 4th gen, carpet from ACC, ordered and waiting on refurbished black lace wheels from ThirdGen Ranch (4 fronts - expected this week), tires will be Cooper Zeon 245/50/16. THe new door hinge kit came in last yesterday.



THe seats are black leather and the carpet is Ebony - pic looks lighter


Waiting on that $100 console lid - should get tomorrow or Tuesday.

Just wanted to give a little history and where I'm at now. I bought the car 6 years ago planning to keep it 2 months while I built my truck. Being a fbody fanatic I couldn't part with it and about two years ago started fixiing things. Now it is painting time. The 70 on the rotisserie will have to wait a little longer, need the DD.

BTW - THe 70 is taking so long because I don't have a clue about paint. So, this will get things rolling on that project too.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

Here is what I'm thinking. I have been reading so of course I am an expert now. Going with Acrylic Lacquer possibly color change to black. Spray 4 coats let dry for a day wet sand and apply 4 more coats. Polish. If I don't like the way it holds up I could wet sand it after a year and spray the color again and then acrylic lacquer clear which is supposed to hold up better. Not much concerned about spraying anything else over it later other than lacquer again to touch it up. It'll probably be my boys first car in 5 years. He can cuss me for it as he strips it down to metal if needed, (insert evil laugh here).

From what I've read lacquer is easier for a first timer.

The tech sheet gives more info than I thought they would http://www.tcpglobal.com/restoration...chsheet_al.pdf

THis is from TCPGlobal and I didn't see Nason there and strangely there was no price on the AL per gallon.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rspaclac.aspx

SURFACE PREPARATION
USE RECOMMENDED UNDERCOAT SYSTEM FOLLOWING RECOMMENDED PROCEDURES.
• Wipe with KW901 Grease and Wax Remover or KW902 Anti-Static Panel Kleaner
• Abrade with 150 grit then 320 grit sandpaper or equivalent.
• Wipe again with KW901 Grease and Wax Remover or KW902 Anti-Static Panel Kleaner
• For best results apply anti-corrosive primer such as KEP Series epoxy primers over bare metal.

SUBSTRATES
AL Series Acrylic Lacquer may be applied over: Cleaned, sanded and primed OEM or Refinish topcoat. Kustom Shop KEP Epoxy Primer / Sealer. KPP Polyester Primer, Kustom Shop KL611 Old school Acrylic Lacquer Primer.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

only down side to a color change is that to do it right, you have to blow the pretty much the whole car apart to get the jambs and otherwise inaccessible areas to the new color. if you dont then youll see the old color when you open the door or similar.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

Found on a painting web site looks like in England.

"Wet sanding between coats is a really good way to get a nice flat, glossy finish. Obviously this takes extra time when waiting for the paint to dry, rubbing it down, drying everything out and on to the next coat. Personally I only do it when a really good finish if required and I know of a number of people that simply lay all the colour coats down, throw a few coats of clear over the top and then cut and polish the paint with an electric buffer and while this can look ok too, in my opinion the finish is never quite the same as when you wet sand between coats"

==========================================
2 pack I am assuming is 2 stage

Acrylic Lacquer Pro’s

1. Relatively easy to apply.
2. Dries in minutes.
3. Easily sanded back and touched up when you strike trouble
4. Used with a clear-coat over the top and then buffed and polished can produce an awesome finish.
5. Lends itself well to being lightly sanded between coats.
6. Is not as harmful on your health, although precautions still need to be taken.
7. Over-spray is easily removed
8. Cheaper to buy, although you need more of it.

Acrylic Lacquer Con’s

1. Has to be ‘buffed’ and polished to achieve a good shine.
2. Is not as chip and scratch resistant as 2 Pack.

2 Pack Pro’s

1. Has a shine straight off the gun, great for areas that are hard to polish such as engine bays and door jambs.
2. Is very hard and scratch/chip resistant once set.

2 Pack Con’s

1. Can only be used in a controlled environment such as a spray booth and must be used with a fresh air breathing apparatus.
2. In my opinion is harder to achieve a nice flat finish with, could just be me though!
3. Used in ambient temperatures can take hours to dry and the car needs to be kept dust and insect-free during this time.
4. Over-spray is hard to remove, particularly from your garage-come-spray booth floor, not to mention the washing machine, dryer, laundry sink, you get the picture! She is still not over that one.
5. Is difficult to ‘touch up’ and usually requires the affected panel to be completely re sprayed.
6. Once set is a bi*ch to sand out any runs or blemishes.
7. Is more expensive as a hardner, thinner and of course the paint itself needs to be bought.

============================================

As I don't have fresh air hood I don't think I want to spray that in my garage. I do have a painters mask I bought I'll see if it is good for acrylic lacquer - sure it is.

============================================
=============================================

If you use 2K which is a primer and sealer, would you need another primer for anything other than a different color primer layer to identify low and high spots?

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

What I was thinking on the color change is the only extra thing I'd have to pull other than what I planned is the doors. And I need to put in a hinge kit anyway. But that is not definite. I would like it black. But then I'd paint at least part of the door jamb with red too. Who knows. Most of the info I'm gathering now is good for red or black.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

Here are some quick prices for AL at TCPGlobal. These are Restoration Shop brands. I am going to look for other brands like Nason (DuPonts economy brand). Omni is PPGs economy brand.

$109 - Jet Black (GLOSS) ACRYLIC LACQUER Car Auto Paint Kit (from Restoration Shop - TCP Global) includes paint and thinner
http://www.amazon.com/Black-GLOSS-AC.../dp/B001B3Y0GA

Everything below can be found here:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rspaclac.aspx
$109 for gal paint and thinner

$100 2K kit one gallon - can be used as a sealer - 2 part - black
$114 Epoxy primer sealer one gallon - 2 part - gray

$23 Grease and wax remover one gallon
$17 Fisheye eliminator

And if you want it:
$109 for gal of AL Clear and gal of thinner


$15 Tack cloths 10 count

haps

iTrader: (4)

I agree with everything but the lacquer and the primer sealer. PPG Omni is also an economical brand.

No, and you don't need a different color primer for identifying high/low spots. Research guide coat. Use the cheapest can of Wally-world spray bomb black for guide coat. Works great. Also, don't forget if you're changing the color, you have the engine bay, under the hood and under the hatch to contend with.

Can't go wrong with:
-strip it to at least the factory primer
-2k primer
-guide coat, block, 2k primer again, guide coat, block
-single stage urethane
*optional*
-wait a week, sand with 600 and clear

58mark

iTrader: (3)

ok, i'm going to speak up. thanks for the compliments guys, they mean a lot

first of all... don't paint with lacquer! I am in the middle of a ground up restoration of my dad's impala, and he wanted lacquer. He demanded lacquer. He wouldn't consider anything but lacquer. if you want to read the saga... it's here.

http://ourimpala.com/

long story short. the lacquer from tcpglobal is not good. It doesn't retain gloss worth a crap, and chips EASILY. I hate to think how many touch up spots I have to do on the car from just breathing on it wrong. It breaks my heart to think about all that work on a car that I'm probably going to have to someday strip it again and start over with BC/CC

Use at least an automotive grade enamel, but I would go for full urethane. Single stage colors can be very affordable, and they really are not that hard to use. set up your gun, get a nice spray pattern, and shoot with 50% overlapping, even strokes.

For lower cost paint, I would use kirker, but for my car I went a couple steps up and used prospray with SPI clear. Travis used kirker, and seemed happy with the results.

I nearly screwed up my lungs big time shooting urethane, but it was all my fault. If you decide to do it, I'll find you some links for affordable masks, and I'll share my story on what NOT to do. With my lesson learned, I would use a mask again, without popping for a full fresh air system.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

An experienced painter talking about TCPGlobals Restoration line of paint

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pain...p-paint-2.html

I'll finish this tomorrow - old man is going to sleep.

I will take y'alls advice on the lacquer. I'll redo all info for single stage urethane above and drop the lacquer.

But I got to tell you I have learned more today on painting just going thru y'alls posts and reading about all the paint and the spec sheets on it. It is looking a lot easier - other than the actual act of course

Thanks all.

58mark

iTrader: (3)

i can't speak on the other lines, but I would never use their lacquer ever again. The post you linked to was not talking about lacquer

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

At this point I am going with a big names lower line like Nason. I was just posting that as a reference point on prices and types of products needed. There is a BIG question as to the brand and quality of Restoration. That would be a gamble I don't want to take. DuPont and PPG are better gambles with their budget lines. Nason is sold by O,reilleys and they have a paint store near me - I will check them out. I now know I need the paint and 2K and thinner and assorted prep stuff and cleaners. And of course a good supply of chemical/paint filters. Most of the stuff I've posted I ran across looking for Jason online to see their prices.

One thing I learned long ago, don't reinvent the wheel and listen to experience. Saves time and money.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

It looks like Dupont, ppg, will not allow their paint to be sold online? And you must be a business?

http://www.carpaintdepot.com/dupontautomotivepaint.php

58mark

iTrader: (3)

very few companies sell paint online. TCP and kirker are exceptions

white gold 88

Whatever paint you choose, find a test panel and practice a little with it. Do this where you plan to paint your car. Practice is your friend. Also this will let you know a little about your ventilation. Personally that compressor may be a little slow if you try to paint it all at the same time or do several panels together. Good luck with it, that car looks nice and it'd be a shame to mess it up with another one of these do it yourself jobs.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

The car looks a lot better in pics than in person. I searched for a long time for a gun that is relatively low cfm compared to most HVLP guns. Will the compressor be enough? Who knows, but I have access to another if need be and if worse comes to worst, a friend has one that will run 3 guns all out non stop. Its not portable though and it has about a 400 gallon tank. So, I have options. Will the gun be good enough? Who knows, but if it doesn't work I'll find another. I'm not wasting $500 worth of materials to get it all one color.

I have a hood and two fenders from a 70 to practice on. They have to be stripped anyway so let the paint fly.

Some people have no option other than do it yourself. I have an option and choose to do it myself. The way its been for over 30 years now of working on cars, no reason to change now.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

OK, I have been reading about Isocyanates. Not that I haven't already heard through the grapevine. I cannot paint anything with Isocyanates at home - I will not have my family even remotely exposed to that. And still do not have the money to pay a shop. I don't trust Maaco or Factobake, so I am going forward with a safer paint.

Here is one of many links http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=309308

By the way - Its not that I can't find a way to be safe, I am certified in SCBA in chemical plants. Its that I do not have the facilities needed to ventilate that stuff and I also live a neighborhood with strict rules. I also have an attached garage that I am going to have to seal off from the house in any event.

If my side work check comes in soon enough I'll pay someone to paint it after I do the body work. But I am not holding my breath on that one. AT least I COULD up the paint cost.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

And Hap, thanks a lot for bursting my bubble. I'm sitting there looking at the engine bay pic of the red paint and I was thinking of the door jams so much it didn't occur to me yet of pulling the engine to paint the firewall black. Not gonna happen - back to red.

haps

iTrader: (4)

Sorry, I seem to do that a lot around here. I throw this option out there as well. People are tough on Maaco, and deservedly so. However, if you were to properly prep your car, removing everything that isn't welded on, stripping where necessary, and going through the prime/block stage, having Maaco spray it for $250 isn't such a bad option. Typically Maaco rushes their prep stage leaving important areas of the car unsanded, the cracks and crevasses is where peeling and flaking begins. They cut loose some noob with a DA and 6 grit to sand out the door dings and he ends up putting sand marks in the panel that'll hold water. But if you were to do the prep, paying special attention to the minute details, you'd end up with a warranted (albeit limited), economical paint job. Something like:
-remove lights, handles, antennae, mirrors, wing, etc
-strip affected areas
-prime/block, prime/block
-deliver to them(preferably with an escort) your sanded, ready to spray vehicle

Might be worth a phone call.

BTW, those Isocyanates aren't bad with the proper PPE and filtered(hvac filters)ventilation. Your biggest worry would be getting red overspray all over your home. Been there.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

It is on the table at this point. I wish that check would come in then I could raise the table a little. With all the parts I want to remove an at home job would be easier logistically speaking.

Oh well still have to do the body and prep so there is time to decide.

firehawk1988

Throwing my 2 cents in now. Alot of these guys are giving you good advice and I'm sure your head is spinning in different directions. Painting your car for the first time can be very intimidating and discouraging to most people. The way i see it, if you have the mechanical skills, patience, materials, equipment and a place to do it. You can.

All of my painting has been done in the late spring, summer and early fall adjusting for reducer temps with BC/CC and doing EVERYTHING outside without a garage. And I used $50 Lowes Kobalt brand HVLP guns. It takes alot of planning and prepping, but it can be done.

First thing i would suggest is Practice. Find something there that you might need painted around the house. Maybe a exterior metal door, chair, bench, etc., that could use some attention. If not find a used fender, door or large piece of metal.

Get a quart of the Dupi-color lacquer along with the primer and play around with it. Try the techniques and get used to the gun and its settings. This way you won't be ruining anything on your car until you are prepared and confident in your abilities. Again, it can be discouraging to most people doing their first paint job.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

Maybe i can practice on the wife's new Camry first. I'll tell her I am putting a candy paint on it...

Great idea about getting some cheap(er) paint to practice with first. Then I can use less of the more expensive paint on practice and final gun settings. That will work.

Also just got invited to the wife's uncles daughter's wedding. He owned a body shop til the economy tanked now he paints for someone else. I've seen his work and he's really good. I can get some places to buy paint from him.

patricklav

iTrader: (7)

I bought primer, paint and clear from TCP with no regrets. For the most part everything sprayed and stuck fine. Got everything for about $420.

91 Droptop

Not all painters are Prim-a-donnas lol, Please go the BC/CC route. This is the industry standard now, you can walk into a body shop supply store and buy what you need. I switched from PPG to Dupont about 4 years ago, remember every brand has a lower line availible to you, PPG = Omni or Dupont = Nason.

Remember there are many factors to deal with at home such as dust and weather Temp/ humidity and such, these will all affect your flash and cure time. You can do it but it will take practice in your enviorment. I also like a sealer on a car that does not go to bare metal due to what may try and bleed thru. THe main thing is take your time, prep work makes a paint job, also do not rush to wetsand and buff let it cure and shrink

TransAM Joe

iTrader: (6)

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...ct%20paint.htm

Pretty much step by step, you don't have to use SPI products to follow either.

Have painted 4 cars(in shop without paint booth) with this method and every one turned out flawless and still look that way years later.

For the beginner at home painting it's best to stick with one brand throughout and follow the tech sheets.

I really like SPI primers and clear(they don't make base colors), they are affordable, high quality and easy to apply.

I prefer Pro Spray or Kirker Black Diamond base, both have excellent two coat coverage and again affordable, high quality and easy to apply. I really like the Black Diamond because it's LOW VOC but you can only choose from factory pack colors, where Pro Spray can custom mix.

58mark

iTrader: (3)

based on countless people raving about it, I used both prospray and SPI universal clear. Wow, that clear was so easy to use, and it looks amazing, all for a great price

patricklav

iTrader: (7)

this is very true as i had to deal witht the weather when i painted a few months ago. and wetsanding? stressful, especially if you have alot of orange peel. I read quite a bit about it and watched videos on it too and was still horrified taking sandpaper to a brand new paint job at first. lol

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

I do feel much more comfortable now. A lot of good info. I also like the idea of low voc paint.although I don't get the low part when you cut it with paint thinner unless you just don't cut as much.

Anyway wheels are enroute and tires coming in Monday its time to put the car on jackstands and clean the undercarriage and paint it - especially the wheel wells. Then bodywork. It may not be restored but it'll be one clean driver/work car