subroc

iTrader: (2)

Im debating which direction i want to go. Has anyone driven both? Big differences or not enough to bother worrying about? Also with the LS1s...do the adapter hubs move the wheels out 1/4" or so where as the 1LEs stay in the factory location?

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The 1LE's move the wheels out a 1/4" or so, IIRC.

JamesC

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Wheel fitment is within a few sheets of paper of identical.

I would recommend strongly AGAINST the 1LE setup and IN FAVOR OF the LS1... not because of either how they work or wheel fitment, but rather, because of parts availability.

There were a total of about... what.... 2000 1LE cars made, MAYBE? That's all of those parts there are in the world, or that there ever were, or ever will be. Being as uncommon as they are, pads and such often aren't in stock at stores; and their availability isn't going to be improving as time goes on.

There were.... what... a quarter of a million 98 - 2002 Camaros & Firebirds made?

You see where this is going?

Don't put something on your car that's going to be a PITA to maintain in coming years; ABOVE ALL, not your BRAKES.

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

I'm gonna have to agree with sofa here - if you're upgrading to do either, go with the one that won't be a pain to service down the line. Performance will be similar enough that it's not tipped one way or the other greatly. My LS1 calipers, pads, and rotors were on the shelf at the local part store. I don't think you'd be able to say the same for an 1LE setup if you're in a pinch.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Before the current influx of wonderful options from Ed Miller and others, I chose the 1LE braking system (Yes, Sofa, I like the fact that the front and rears match). I've never experienced issues in ordering parts for the set-up and frankly don't expect to any time soon. Perhaps if I hang on to the car long enough, problems will arise. If so, I'll do what most of us do anyway: upgrade to something bigger and better.

The above said, you can't go wrong is the LS1 set-up.

JamesC

subroc

iTrader: (2)

The only thing keeping me from it is price. I have a line on 1LE for about 100 dollars cheaper than i can do the LS1 swap for. All told id be in the LS1s for about 604 or a bit less if i downgrade the pads from what i really want.

Thats....
Spindles, hubs, brackets all put together by bigbrakeupgrade $375
Earls SS brake lines $89
Centric rotors $60 bucks
Hawk HPS pads $80

I already have the calipers. If someone wants to fill me in on how to do it for 500 or less ill be game...otherwise ill probably go 1LE to save a bit of cash.

L695speed

I did it for...
Spindles, hubs, brackets by bigbrakeupgrade $375
Raybestos Professional grade rotors $100
Calipers $80
Raybestos 1LE rubber lines $24?
HPS pads $80

I heard you can do it cheaper if you do your own modifications and so on, but you gotta have the ability and machinery (CAD or a mill) in the first place. Some of the above parts I can probably find for a lil cheaper than I noted, I know I can find the rotors cheaper, same for the hoses and pads, but I wanted stuff that I knew was not going to go to hell right away. I also looked at the C4 vette upgrade, then found that most places didn't seem to carry the front calipers and carriers, nor just the caliper. So I went with LS1 brakes. Can't say how it stops yet as I have no motor, but just looking at the calipers I'd bet its a major improvement already.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I prefer the 1LE PBR setup on the front and rear over the LS1PBR due to the period correct looks of the 1LE and I dislike extra weight of the LS PBR front n rear rotor. I'm also not a huge fan of the lil parking brake inside the rear rotor of the PBR LS1 rears..
I've changed sooo many of those rear parking brakes because of the shoe falling off and making noise its not funny. Reminds me of the old 70s vette setups(juuuunk).
I can go to most any parts store, get PBR calipers and pads plus performance pads from several sources including BAER..
Even tho there are not many 1LE Fbody setups, there are many thousands of C4 corvettes from 85-96 that run the same caliper/pads and they can be adapted as easy as LS PBRs. The HD C4 used a 13" rotor also..
In the end, its all about what you,the owner, wants out of your braking system.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Where can you get 1LE caliper brackets?

Do all the C4 Corvettes have the "1LE Camaro" calipers? Is it the same part or does it require a little fanagling to get it to work?

I'd prefer to go with a 1LE setup, but I just have a feeling it's a lot easier to get a hold of the LS1 parts.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...es-Components/

Ed Miller also carries some 1LE equipment, including the adapter bracket (which is much cheaper than Spohn's):

http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/i86.html

JamesC

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

You can use the C4 brackets. they are different than the 1LE but have the same spacing as LS1 PBRs (I think)
Do some searching around and you'll find anything you need!

L695speed

TTOP350, I saw the weight difference between the LS1 calipers and the stock iron ones I had originally. Wow. But I don't know about the rotors yet. I am with you on the drum in the rotor deal on the LS1 rears for the parking brake. I am running the PBR "1LE" rears on my car. Like how its set up with the parking brake which I need with the manual trans. LS1 parts I found easier to get than 1LE or even C4 parts, but I am sure if one looked hard enough, one can find any of those setups for about the same cost as the others. I was after bigger brakes, better stopping power, yet still retaining the factory appearance with the upgraded 16 inch wheels over my original 15s. I also wanted parts to be easy to get ahold of. To the OP, if you are going to be using this car often, and possibly tracking it, I would get the setup that is easiest to find parts for, which IMO is the LS1 setup. If you are looking to build a show car or really want to keep it period correct, go for the 1LE setup.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I love the search, but with some of these terms it's real hard to find anything relevant. Thanks for the info!

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Its a weekend fun car mainly. I dont really push it too too hard but i would like a set of brakes that are a lot better than the stock 10.5 rotors and iron calipers. I did a bit of hunting and you can still get supplies for the 1LE just fine (rotors are still out there and calipers are on rock auto. How long that will be true is anyones guess. I suppose the LS1s would be the smart choice for parts availability down the road but if i can snag the 1LEs for 100 bucks cheaper than i can do the LS1 swap...i probably will. I was more interested in the stopping difference between the two which it seems is not really an issue.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

On the other hand. I've got 275/40 tires for auto-x and the stock breaks can lock them up which tells me the stock breaks are more than good enough for general and some track use. You could save even more money!

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

The ability is lock up the tires does make them the most efective. Ever hear of Anti-Lock brakes? The systems were redesigned that way almost 2 decades ago for a reason. Locking up just means that the calipers work & clamp down & are not too weak to do their job. There is a fine line between too much brake & too little. Locking up your tires = too much.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Also, bigger brakes make it possible to do repeated stops quickly without them fading away.
If your auto Xing your car with stock brakes becareful....
You will have better repeatable stopping performance from bigger brakes..

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

There is some misinformation going on in this thread, not attacking or finger pointing so dont take offense to my post. As a 1LE brake owner for over 13yrs I speak from experience

Parts availability is just fine, in fact you can still go to autozone, of all places, and get 1LE calipers, as well as the retaining pins and clips, so that's a none issue. don't believe me, check out their website, even has the correct picture of both left and right calipers.

I've never had a problem getting rotors or brake pads either, brake lines are I think, the same as the LS1 cars.

Only reason to choose LS1 brakes, would be the ability to use a larger rotor than the 1LEs 11.86" rotors

I've had both, don't see a difference in stopping power when using same pads and fluid. So it comes down to price and desire to keep period correct. For me, I love the way the 1LE caliper looks compared to the LS1.

Oh and not to knock Ed Miller, ive worked with him in the past and he is a great innovator but have you tried to contact him lately? He has t been on this site in a loooong time, plus you will wait months for a complete kit

Base91

iTrader: (1)

My point about being able to lock up the wheels wasn't that it was the best thing to do but that it meant the brakes were strong enough to do it. As for size, there are relatively long breaks between auto-x runs which lets the pads cool down. I like stock pads as they heat up quickly. For open track bigger and more suitable pads to handle the heat is the way to go. But that different to braking force. OP says "Its a weekend fun car mainly. I dont really push it too too hard" hence my comment that the stock brakes are more than good enough for that. I've got 1LEs to install too but that's to handle the extra grip of race tires when I can afford them and for open track. The cheapest way to get more brakes may to install a bias adjuster for the rear and get more out of them.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Already got a bias adjuster when i upgraded to rear disks. Its fairly well dialed in right now.

The stock brakes are "ok" for me but i would prefer it to stop a lot quicker than it does now. I gotta really push it hard to get it to stop. Ive been in one or two panic stops with it that came closer than i think they should have (stopped in time but just barely). Id like to shorten that stopping distance some especially now since my car has more power than its ever had.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

You can do the LS1 upgrade for around $200. I did, and love it. Later upgraded to the LS booster/master too.

Pick this up, have your rotors milled down, make some brackets, , mod your spindles and you're in business!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-front-br...item416262e692

subroc

iTrader: (2)

I dont have the tools to make the brackets correctly. I do already have the calipers so all i would be needing is the spindles modded, hub, adapter bracket, rotors, and pads as well as new front brake lines (mine might be original). All that priced out is running up the bill.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Brackets are $60

http://www.bigbrakeupgrade.com/ls1_parts.html

Modded spindles = free. Cut off OEM caliper ears, tap 2 holes, and that's it.

http://lukeskaff.com/?page_id=396

Making hubs - Cut the rotor off yourself, then have them turned down. Post around here, or call around locally. I had mine done for $20.

http://lukeskaff.com/?page_id=369

Brake lines are OEM replacement. Any parts store will have them, Or use your existing lines if they aren't cracked.

Rotors - parts store, ebay/craigslist.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Here's a ton of pics. Some are of my Rear LS upgrade before I bought my Currie 9"

http://s816.photobucket.com/albums/z.../LS1%20brakes/

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Subscribed

Sojer

1le calipers and pads look like vette caliper and the pads look the same too I will look up part # at work ls1 pads are bigger than 1le. 1LE pads are not much bigger than stock, 1le just don't have chafer (tapers on the side)
Stock at bottom, 1le middle, and ls1 top

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That's all well and good; and I didn't say otherwise.

What I ACTUALLY DID say was

Not alot of sense in doing a mod that's inevitably destined to become harder and harder to support as time goes on. As an example of the problem, go try to buy axle bearings and seals for a 9-bolt... couple of years ago, no problem; today, whole different story.

And of course, looking something up on somebody's Internet site can be quite a different matter from walking down to the corner store and expecting it to be sitting there waiting for you when you need it the worst.

I guess once you get out of high school and participate in this hobby for a few decades, you'll find out why I think alot of things the way that I do; and most likely, will adopt some of the same attitudes. Has to do with experience and taking the long-term view.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Set 9 bearings on rock auto for 17 bucks. Correct seals from napa 20 a piece. Done. You can still get parts for it without too much problem.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Compare to a 10-bolt...

How much you wanna bet that the NAPA closest to you doesn't have the seals in stock? Either one of them? Sure, you can order em, .... but what if you're doing something else not expecting to need them, and without the benefit of advance planning, discover out of the clear blue that you gotta have em NOW so you can get to work in the morning?

How much you wanna bet that next year, and the year after that, and the one after that, it isn't going to get any better?

Put a few more decades on yourself in this hobby and you'll see things differently. You (or at least, I) learn to avoid dead-end roads as much as possible when modding. Sometimes it can't be helped, but when there's a choice, it should figure in.

peterc005

I'm looking for a front disk upgrade and prefer an LS1 setup over 1LE disks because it will save replacing my braided front brake lines.