1986 camaro steering column wiring diagram
11-07-2012, 06:01 PM
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1986 camaro steering column wiring diagram
Hi everybody,
I am rewiring my interior, and I am looking for the wiring diagram for the column (ignition switch)
Can you plz help me
I am rewiring my interior, and I am looking for the wiring diagram for the column (ignition switch)
Can you plz help me
11-07-2012, 08:39 PM
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Car: 1987 Iroc-Z28
Engine: L98 (soon to be LT1)
Transmission: 700R4 (soon to be 4L60e)
Axle/Gears: 3.27 LS
Re: 1986 camaro steering column wiring diagram
This Should help.
If you need any others, PM me.
If you need any others, PM me.
01-14-2018, 11:22 AM
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Car: 1985 Camaro Iroc Z28
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Re: 1986 camaro steering column wiring diagram
Quick question. All the wires on the steering column for the ignition switch , (Start, Ign, Accy, Run) are just 12v+ signal wires correct? The actual power for these positions on the switch come from the fuse block correct? I just want to know if i have to buy relays for these due to a switch panel install. For example, the accessories, are not all powered directly through the brown wire. Correct?
01-15-2018, 07:59 AM
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Re: 1986 camaro steering column wiring diagram
No, not correct.
There's no "run" wire. The ign sw has 1 input (batt) and 3 outputs (acc, ign, & start). Acc = accessory wire gets power only; Run = ign & acc are fed power at the same time; Start = ign & starter at the same time. Although, there are 2 sections of the sw, and 2 or more sets of some of those ins and outs, so there are more than just 4 physical connections to it.
Power comes from the fusible links at the batt cable post on the starter, on BIG FAT RED wires, through the bulkhead connector behind the fusebox (C100), then inside the car there are splices in the BIG FAT RED wires to distribute raw battery to various places. These include a feed toward the fusebox for fused, directly battery-powered things, like brake lights, flashers, and courtesy lights; to both poles of the ign sw (there are 2 BIG FAT RED wires feeding separate sections of it); to the headlight sw; to the terminal block located near the parking brake release handle for various of the high-power optional accessories like power door locks & power seats; and so on. None of those feeds passes through the fusebox.
From the ign sw, switched power goes to the ignition system (pink wires); accessories (can't recall the color of the wire at the switch off the top of my head); and the neutral safety sw then to the starter solenoid (yellow wire then purple). Various ones of those go to the fusebox and the terminal block to power individual subsystems of the car; for example the power seats and mirrors are powered off of the pink wire, there are fuses off of the pink wire to power certain things that only work when the key is in Run, other fuses for things like the radio and HVAC that get their feed from Acc, and still other fuses for battery-powered things that are downstream of other major switches, for example for the dash lights and tail lights which are downstream of the headlight switch.
It's all really quite simple. Just a car after all; one of the simplest, most common, most widely duplicated systems in the world, designed with as much simplicity as possible and then some. No relays anywhere in any of that. They're simply not needed. Everything is controlled as directly as possible, with a few connections as possible, as few parts as possible, etc., for reliability.
Not sure about "switch panel install". Not how, or why, or even whether it's "A Good Idea" at all. Doesn't sound like a wise thing to be doing for someone who doesn't understand how the car is wired in the first place. I'd recommend not cutting up your car's wiring AT ALL. If your electrical system has problems, the right thing to do is FIX IT, rather than add multiple layers of hack jobs on top of a bunch of already broken stuff that then only makes it worse.
There's no "run" wire. The ign sw has 1 input (batt) and 3 outputs (acc, ign, & start). Acc = accessory wire gets power only; Run = ign & acc are fed power at the same time; Start = ign & starter at the same time. Although, there are 2 sections of the sw, and 2 or more sets of some of those ins and outs, so there are more than just 4 physical connections to it.
Power comes from the fusible links at the batt cable post on the starter, on BIG FAT RED wires, through the bulkhead connector behind the fusebox (C100), then inside the car there are splices in the BIG FAT RED wires to distribute raw battery to various places. These include a feed toward the fusebox for fused, directly battery-powered things, like brake lights, flashers, and courtesy lights; to both poles of the ign sw (there are 2 BIG FAT RED wires feeding separate sections of it); to the headlight sw; to the terminal block located near the parking brake release handle for various of the high-power optional accessories like power door locks & power seats; and so on. None of those feeds passes through the fusebox.
From the ign sw, switched power goes to the ignition system (pink wires); accessories (can't recall the color of the wire at the switch off the top of my head); and the neutral safety sw then to the starter solenoid (yellow wire then purple). Various ones of those go to the fusebox and the terminal block to power individual subsystems of the car; for example the power seats and mirrors are powered off of the pink wire, there are fuses off of the pink wire to power certain things that only work when the key is in Run, other fuses for things like the radio and HVAC that get their feed from Acc, and still other fuses for battery-powered things that are downstream of other major switches, for example for the dash lights and tail lights which are downstream of the headlight switch.
It's all really quite simple. Just a car after all; one of the simplest, most common, most widely duplicated systems in the world, designed with as much simplicity as possible and then some. No relays anywhere in any of that. They're simply not needed. Everything is controlled as directly as possible, with a few connections as possible, as few parts as possible, etc., for reliability.
Not sure about "switch panel install". Not how, or why, or even whether it's "A Good Idea" at all. Doesn't sound like a wise thing to be doing for someone who doesn't understand how the car is wired in the first place. I'd recommend not cutting up your car's wiring AT ALL. If your electrical system has problems, the right thing to do is FIX IT, rather than add multiple layers of hack jobs on top of a bunch of already broken stuff that then only makes it worse.
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01-15-2018, 05:17 PM
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Car: 1985 Camaro Iroc Z28
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Re: 1986 camaro steering column wiring diagram
I understand the wiring for one. I asked a simple question, you typed a whole story, then made a rude comment at the end. Nice.
Run wire by my definition is the orange wire that is on when the car is RUNNING.
I tore the whole computer and all the harnesses out. Don't need any of it. I was simply asking about the wires on the switch. I am wiring a system to run essentials, Fan, Fuel Pump, Starter, ETC.
I plan on fixing the car by putting a BBC in this IROC. The new steering column doesn't have a key cylinder on it. Just want to get it right the first time. I figured that's what this forum was for.
Thanks for the help!
Run wire by my definition is the orange wire that is on when the car is RUNNING.
I tore the whole computer and all the harnesses out. Don't need any of it. I was simply asking about the wires on the switch. I am wiring a system to run essentials, Fan, Fuel Pump, Starter, ETC.
I plan on fixing the car by putting a BBC in this IROC. The new steering column doesn't have a key cylinder on it. Just want to get it right the first time. I figured that's what this forum was for.
Thanks for the help!
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01-15-2018, 06:01 PM
#8
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Re: 1986 camaro steering column wiring diagram
There is no "run" wire. If "your" definition has one, then it's wrong. Kinda like a friend of mine some decades ago that found a "run" wire in his truck (about a 65 or so) by turning the key on and probing with a test light, and hooking his ignition to it. Then wondered why it was so hard to start... he developed a technique that involved spinning the motor with the starter, letting go of the key, and pumping the gas as the motor coasted down. Turned out his "run" wire was ACTUALLY an accessory wire; hot in Run and Acc, but not in Start.
You'll notice on the schematic above, that there are 3 wires coming off of the position of the switch (not a wire label) called "Run". If you're paying attention, you'll also notice that ONLY ONE of those 2, is actually anything related to "Run". The pink wire one. It is hot in both Run and Start, and as such, is related to the car Running. The others, specifically including the orange one, are hot ONLY in "Run", and therefore ARE NOT "Run", since they are not hot in Start; the car will not "run" off of them properly. If you try to wire those others up to the ignition system as "Run", the car will act EXACTLY like my friend's truck described above.
It always helps when asking a question, to tell WHY you're asking what you're asking. Helps to direct the answer in the right direction.
Like talking about how to kill the alligators; when what you are more immediately concerned with is draining the swamp; but what you REALLY want to do is build an expressway bridge. You don't need either to kill the alligators OR to drain the swamp, necessarily. Don't get so wrapped up in the trees that you lose sight of the forest.
In this case, since you already ripped it all out and don't have a key switch anyway, best thing to do is just get one of those prefab racing harnesses with its switch panel, that doesn't bother with the key switch. Then it'll all just hook up and work and you won't have to drill into the details or learn about electricity or logic or anything.
You'll notice on the schematic above, that there are 3 wires coming off of the position of the switch (not a wire label) called "Run". If you're paying attention, you'll also notice that ONLY ONE of those 2, is actually anything related to "Run". The pink wire one. It is hot in both Run and Start, and as such, is related to the car Running. The others, specifically including the orange one, are hot ONLY in "Run", and therefore ARE NOT "Run", since they are not hot in Start; the car will not "run" off of them properly. If you try to wire those others up to the ignition system as "Run", the car will act EXACTLY like my friend's truck described above.
It always helps when asking a question, to tell WHY you're asking what you're asking. Helps to direct the answer in the right direction.
Like talking about how to kill the alligators; when what you are more immediately concerned with is draining the swamp; but what you REALLY want to do is build an expressway bridge. You don't need either to kill the alligators OR to drain the swamp, necessarily. Don't get so wrapped up in the trees that you lose sight of the forest.
In this case, since you already ripped it all out and don't have a key switch anyway, best thing to do is just get one of those prefab racing harnesses with its switch panel, that doesn't bother with the key switch. Then it'll all just hook up and work and you won't have to drill into the details or learn about electricity or logic or anything.
Last edited by sofakingdom; 01-15-2018 at 06:16 PM.
01-17-2018, 06:22 AM
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Re: 1986 camaro steering column wiring diagram
Appreciate the help. But I want to learn it. Your insight has helped me understand the functionality a lot better. Appreciate the information that you have shared. Thanks!
04-21-2019, 10:27 PM
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Re: 1986 camaro steering column wiring diagram
No, not correct.
There's no "run" wire. The ign sw has 1 input (batt) and 3 outputs (acc, ign, & start). Acc = accessory wire gets power only; Run = ign & acc are fed power at the same time; Start = ign & starter at the same time. Although, there are 2 sections of the sw, and 2 or more sets of some of those ins and outs, so there are more than just 4 physical connections to it.
Power comes from the fusible links at the batt cable post on the starter, on BIG FAT RED wires, through the bulkhead connector behind the fusebox (C100), then inside the car there are splices in the BIG FAT RED wires to distribute raw battery to various places. These include a feed toward the fusebox for fused, directly battery-powered things, like brake lights, flashers, and courtesy lights; to both poles of the ign sw (there are 2 BIG FAT RED wires feeding separate sections of it); to the headlight sw; to the terminal block located near the parking brake release handle for various of the high-power optional accessories like power door locks & power seats; and so on. None of those feeds passes through the fusebox.
From the ign sw, switched power goes to the ignition system (pink wires); accessories (can't recall the color of the wire at the switch off the top of my head); and the neutral safety sw then to the starter solenoid (yellow wire then purple). Various ones of those go to the fusebox and the terminal block to power individual subsystems of the car; for example the power seats and mirrors are powered off of the pink wire, there are fuses off of the pink wire to power certain things that only work when the key is in Run, other fuses for things like the radio and HVAC that get their feed from Acc, and still other fuses for battery-powered things that are downstream of other major switches, for example for the dash lights and tail lights which are downstream of the headlight switch.
It's all really quite simple. Just a car after all; one of the simplest, most common, most widely duplicated systems in the world, designed with as much simplicity as possible and then some. No relays anywhere in any of that. They're simply not needed. Everything is controlled as directly as possible, with a few connections as possible, as few parts as possible, etc., for reliability.
Not sure about "switch panel install". Not how, or why, or even whether it's "A Good Idea" at all. Doesn't sound like a wise thing to be doing for someone who doesn't understand how the car is wired in the first place. I'd recommend not cutting up your car's wiring AT ALL. If your electrical system has problems, the right thing to do is FIX IT, rather than add multiple layers of hack jobs on top of a bunch of already broken stuff that then only makes it worse.
There's no "run" wire. The ign sw has 1 input (batt) and 3 outputs (acc, ign, & start). Acc = accessory wire gets power only; Run = ign & acc are fed power at the same time; Start = ign & starter at the same time. Although, there are 2 sections of the sw, and 2 or more sets of some of those ins and outs, so there are more than just 4 physical connections to it.
Power comes from the fusible links at the batt cable post on the starter, on BIG FAT RED wires, through the bulkhead connector behind the fusebox (C100), then inside the car there are splices in the BIG FAT RED wires to distribute raw battery to various places. These include a feed toward the fusebox for fused, directly battery-powered things, like brake lights, flashers, and courtesy lights; to both poles of the ign sw (there are 2 BIG FAT RED wires feeding separate sections of it); to the headlight sw; to the terminal block located near the parking brake release handle for various of the high-power optional accessories like power door locks & power seats; and so on. None of those feeds passes through the fusebox.
From the ign sw, switched power goes to the ignition system (pink wires); accessories (can't recall the color of the wire at the switch off the top of my head); and the neutral safety sw then to the starter solenoid (yellow wire then purple). Various ones of those go to the fusebox and the terminal block to power individual subsystems of the car; for example the power seats and mirrors are powered off of the pink wire, there are fuses off of the pink wire to power certain things that only work when the key is in Run, other fuses for things like the radio and HVAC that get their feed from Acc, and still other fuses for battery-powered things that are downstream of other major switches, for example for the dash lights and tail lights which are downstream of the headlight switch.
It's all really quite simple. Just a car after all; one of the simplest, most common, most widely duplicated systems in the world, designed with as much simplicity as possible and then some. No relays anywhere in any of that. They're simply not needed. Everything is controlled as directly as possible, with a few connections as possible, as few parts as possible, etc., for reliability.
Not sure about "switch panel install". Not how, or why, or even whether it's "A Good Idea" at all. Doesn't sound like a wise thing to be doing for someone who doesn't understand how the car is wired in the first place. I'd recommend not cutting up your car's wiring AT ALL. If your electrical system has problems, the right thing to do is FIX IT, rather than add multiple layers of hack jobs on top of a bunch of already broken stuff that then only makes it worse.
Are the fusible links somehow, make any kind of connection with ground? Seems when I check continuity from the fusible link terminal, and check ground, they are making contact? I dont see anywhere in the schematics that they would make contact other than maybe somehow with the solenoid in the starter?
04-22-2019, 07:41 AM
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Re: 1986 camaro steering column wiring diagram
No the fusible links make no contact with ground. Not directly at least, and not intentionally.
However, they do power various loads in the car, many of which are large enough that to your meter, they would look like they make a connection to ground.
However, they do power various loads in the car, many of which are large enough that to your meter, they would look like they make a connection to ground.
05-16-2020, 11:32 PM
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Re: 1986 camaro steering column wiring diagram
There is no "run" wire. If "your" definition has one, then it's wrong. Kinda like a friend of mine some decades ago that found a "run" wire in his truck (about a 65 or so) by turning the key on and probing with a test light, and hooking his ignition to it. Then wondered why it was so hard to start... he developed a technique that involved spinning the motor with the starter, letting go of the key, and pumping the gas as the motor coasted down. Turned out his "run" wire was ACTUALLY an accessory wire; hot in Run and Acc, but not in Start.
You'll notice on the schematic above, that there are 3 wires coming off of the position of the switch (not a wire label) called "Run". If you're paying attention, you'll also notice that ONLY ONE of those 2, is actually anything related to "Run". The pink wire one. It is hot in both Run and Start, and as such, is related to the car Running. The others, specifically including the orange one, are hot ONLY in "Run", and therefore ARE NOT "Run", since they are not hot in Start; the car will not "run" off of them properly. If you try to wire those others up to the ignition system as "Run", the car will act EXACTLY like my friend's truck described above.
It always helps when asking a question, to tell WHY you're asking what you're asking. Helps to direct the answer in the right direction.
Like talking about how to kill the alligators; when what you are more immediately concerned with is draining the swamp; but what you REALLY want to do is build an expressway bridge. You don't need either to kill the alligators OR to drain the swamp, necessarily. Don't get so wrapped up in the trees that you lose sight of the forest.
In this case, since you already ripped it all out and don't have a key switch anyway, best thing to do is just get one of those prefab racing harnesses with its switch panel, that doesn't bother with the key switch. Then it'll all just hook up and work and you won't have to drill into the details or learn about electricity or logic or anything.
You'll notice on the schematic above, that there are 3 wires coming off of the position of the switch (not a wire label) called "Run". If you're paying attention, you'll also notice that ONLY ONE of those 2, is actually anything related to "Run". The pink wire one. It is hot in both Run and Start, and as such, is related to the car Running. The others, specifically including the orange one, are hot ONLY in "Run", and therefore ARE NOT "Run", since they are not hot in Start; the car will not "run" off of them properly. If you try to wire those others up to the ignition system as "Run", the car will act EXACTLY like my friend's truck described above.
It always helps when asking a question, to tell WHY you're asking what you're asking. Helps to direct the answer in the right direction.
Like talking about how to kill the alligators; when what you are more immediately concerned with is draining the swamp; but what you REALLY want to do is build an expressway bridge. You don't need either to kill the alligators OR to drain the swamp, necessarily. Don't get so wrapped up in the trees that you lose sight of the forest.
In this case, since you already ripped it all out and don't have a key switch anyway, best thing to do is just get one of those prefab racing harnesses with its switch panel, that doesn't bother with the key switch. Then it'll all just hook up and work and you won't have to drill into the details or learn about electricity or logic or anything.
I could use some help. I bought a 1982 Trans Am shell with wheels nothing else. I'm trying to figure out what all the wires are and what they go to. There's no dash so I'm pretty much rebuilding the car. I got a steering column but don't know which wires activate the starter from the key switch. I need to run those wires to what will be the starter on my LS Swap that I'm doing. Once I find a complete dash I'll figure out the rest.
05-17-2020, 08:50 AM
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Re: 1986 camaro steering column wiring diagram
Best thing you can do is buy the FSM for your car. It will have all the wiring diagrams. They pop up on ebay from time to time. You can probably get away with one from 83 as well. I don't think it's practical for someone to list them all in any kind of coherent intelligible fashion. That's why they provide this type of info in diagrams rather than paragraphs.
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