HSR Hood clearance - Solving by lowering motor mounts?
#1
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
HSR Hood clearance - Solving by lowering motor mounts?
Does anyone think it is reasonably possible to drop the motor mounts about 1/4" or so? One could do this by filling and redrilling or by ovalizing and welding in a washer inside.
I realize that as you move down, you're also moving inward due to the slope of the kmember. You would have to keep the lowering to a minimum so the clamshells will still line up.
This is I am trying my best to retain the stock formy hood, and I REALLY dont want to dent the supporting interior nor remove the heat shield. Anyone have any experience doing this or forsee any problems? There is over a 9/16" of clearance from pan to kmember. Thanks.
I realize that as you move down, you're also moving inward due to the slope of the kmember. You would have to keep the lowering to a minimum so the clamshells will still line up.
This is I am trying my best to retain the stock formy hood, and I REALLY dont want to dent the supporting interior nor remove the heat shield. Anyone have any experience doing this or forsee any problems? There is over a 9/16" of clearance from pan to kmember. Thanks.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: NJ
Posts: 568
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 89 formula
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
I dont think that 9/16 is enough measure the space from the hood support to the shell you need most if not all that space.I have a 89 formula with the stealth ram I cut the brace out under the hood right above the manifold and the stock hood closes.Its a close fit and there are no dents in the hood!
Last edited by e-man; 07-18-2002 at 04:47 PM.
#3
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
I'm not wanting to cut up my hood. :nono: I will buy an aftermarket one before I butcher it up....just trying to find another way to remain stock outside! Any other suggestions/comments welcome. Thanks for the reply
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
I dont have one so I cant really comment accurately, but maybe its possible to cut the top of the base and realign the holes and stuff and lower it a little that way? It wouldnt be cheap, but would work. I'm sure cutting the fins would work too, if they are higher than both the TB and plenum.
#5
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
Great input madmax! I think where the problem resides; however, is the slope of the hood is lowest at the front (the throttle body and front of the intake make contact I THINK) I'm a bit timid to slope or alter the base because that in itself would be changing the characteristics of the intake runners themselves. The fins are a good idea...I really need to put it on a lift to see what is making contact. I have a buddy who would mill the fins off for a fair price. Keep em coming. How to do the roadrace guys lower the motors in our cars? Specialty kmember?
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
That could be one way. Keep in mind if you do that, you are changing the driveshaft angle and you'll want to address that issue.
Another idea along the lines of modifying the plenum, a plate or mill the TB mounting area to change the TB angle to a downward direction.
Another idea along the lines of modifying the plenum, a plate or mill the TB mounting area to change the TB angle to a downward direction.
Trending Topics
#8
TGO Supporter
not sure what all would be effected by doing this, but if i were doing it, and i wanted a good structurally sound job here's how i'd do it. cut a hole where the mount goes ,box it in with 1x1x1/8 angle relocate the mounting flang of the bottom shell mount up on the body of it, use angle again. drill bolts holes as required and bolt it up. this would allow part of the calm shell to be inside the k member.
#9
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
The top two bolts that hold the T-body is what hits the hood,and if you lower the top of the base the T-body cable linkage will hit the fuel rail.
That could be one way. Keep in mind if you do that, you are changing the driveshaft angle and you'll want to address that issue.
Ede's idea is great about setting the mounts in deeper in the k-member. It wouldnt be able to be sunk an inch because the long bolt that goes through the mounts still needs to be accessable, but a 1/4 inch motor mount drop would definetly best be done this way. It would still retain the width perfectly.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
NBrehm
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
0
08-05-2015 07:57 PM