z28 TPI

I found a way to remove the glass without drilling the rivets out on the glass. Plus with the glass out its door its easier to get to the door handle and closer. Anyways here it goes. the tools you will need to remove the glass are: 2 torx bits or wrenches t-15 and t-30, a flat head screwdriver, and a 10 mm socket and wrench. You will see in the pictures the arm rest is held on by three t-30 screws where the red dots are in the pictures. The area where the door handle is is held on by 6 t-15 screws where the yellow screws are in the pictures. The next thing to do is to remove the lock switch plate and switch just gently pull the wires off of the switch where the blue circle is.

z28 TPI

Next you can remove the red screw in the middle of the plastic housing and gently pull the door handle out of the door panel. The mirror cable and housing needs to be turned though the housing the only problem is to remove the lock mechanism rod (blue dot) from the lock handle (blue dot). When you pull the plastic housing from the door panel the lock handle needs to be slid all the way to the left so you can reach behind and pull the rod from the back of the lock handle (blue dot).

z28 TPI

My door panel is broken from the top so all i have to do is pull gently on the door panel itself and it will come off the door. The next thing to do is to remove the inside door felt or the top of the door panel. The picture door8 will show you the place where the top door panel is held on by tabs all you need to do is apply pressure to the place where the tabs might be and push lightly towards the glass and then up you should be able to feel the plastic slide up the glass. pictures door9 and door10 show what the tabs look like and where the staples are for the window sweeps for those interested in changing the sweeps just remove the staples and pull the old sweep off and replace the staples. I would show how but i dont have new sweeps to do it with lol.

z28 TPI

Okay the next set of pictures show the clear plastic removed from the door. The next step is to remove bolts from the door where the blue dots are. the bracket on the left is where your window stop is located (in the middle of the black spot. The final picture is showing what the brackets look like outside of the door. To remove the bracket on the left remove all four bolts slide the bracket down the inside of the door and towards the front of the car, your goal is to get the roller inside this track off it will push the metal stop inside the track out thats okay just set it aside for now. The next bracket is the other window stop (I think) there is no roller with this bracket you can pull it off the door.

z28 TPI

Next step is to pull off the mirror triangle. there are 2 bolts, 2 nuts to remove and 2 screws. The first thing is to remove the weatherstripping from this area of the door just remove the 2 screws with a phillps head screwdriver all you need is a little room to remove 2 yellow nuts from door11a on the top of the door near the plastic triangle. Then remove the 2 yellow bolts from door11a and the hole triangle will slide down a little. When you remove the top bolt the small bracket that the nuts held will come down. With the bolts removed the hole piece should be able to come out of the door with some twisting from the top of the door.

z28 TPI

The last bracket to remove is the middle bracket its held on by 2 bolts (orange color). I warn you this is the bracket the the cross arm that holds the window steady will start to move. It will help to steady the window when removing this bracket. When the bracket is removed slide the window to the front on the regulator arm and down. Next start lowering the arm by pushing the window down button. You will see that there is a point where the arm will go out of the track almost then back in you need to stop right where the roller starts to go back in the track and pull the window up a little then push the switch to move the regulator arm up that should release it from the roller on the regulator arm and now the window is free in the door frame. Next is to remove the mirror from the door with the 2 nuts that hold the mirror on. The last thing to do is to remove the outer window sweep from the door it is held on either be bolts or screws. for those who just want to replace there sweeps there should be no reason to remove the window but like me I wanted to freshen up the locking mechs. of the door and the actuator. The outer door skin has a little flex if you haven't noticed by now. That will be used to our advantage. The window has plastic holders for the rivets backing washers those might get broken cause of the weather for 20 plus years it okay. the large space in the front of the door is where all the rails and rivets that are attached to the window are going to come out of. So in a sense the window is going to "swing out" of the door. So all you need to do is to pull the whole window up and swing the front part of the window though the opening letting the back of the window swing down. By doing that you should've been able to get the first part of the rail and the plastic stop out. Next is to pull the back of the window out of the door but the last roller that goes in the first bracket removed will be a little tricky this is where the flex will come into play it will come out trust me with no damage to the door.

z28 TPI

Here are some pictures of the mirror and the opening im talking about and the first part of the window, and the back part of the window. Feel free to PM me and ask questions on the removal i will be happy to answer them or just reply so everyone gets a feel and a take on how to remove the window. Again thanks for the patience.

zride91

Great post, thank you. this was a task I was thinking of having done by someone else, doesn't look too bad though...

I am assuming there are no troubles doing the reverse putting everything back in??

z28 TPI

There shouldn't be any but my suggestion is to put all the pieces taken out of the door and arrange them so its esay to put back in. The more I think about it I think I missed a step...darn I did on the top of the door there are 2 I call them window felts they are the "holders" to keep the window stationary when the window is moving in the door. Here are the pictures of what they look like.

z28 TPI

Thank you for the thank you. I just think its time i give back what TGO has given me.

da.slyboy

iTrader: (1)

Now granted I didn't have any trouble getting the window out (some punk had smashed it so I took most of it out with a shop vac.) But I remember when trying to reinstall, I couldn't figure out for the life of me how the window (with the track on) fit back in the door. I finally separated the glass from the track and reattached back in the door. I remember trying to remove the front slider bracket where the triangle seal was but it would not come out the door. Was that a difficult piece to come out or is the removal of the mirror needed to preform this operation?

flu_by_u

Will this work if the motor is seized and the window is in the up position?

z28 TPI

To remove the window the motor does have to work or you can try to take to motor assembly out of the door but again the window is attached the the regulator arm. Please do remember that the regulator arm has a spring to help the motor lift and drop the window in the door. hmm let me see if i can look at the window motor in my door and see if it is possible...

z28 TPI

The front slider bracket which has the plastic triangle attached to it can come out I took more pictures of the bracket to show you. The picture door12 shows the weatherstripping in the corner covering the nuts on the small bracket if you can find door24 pic (its been posted and I can't post it again) you will see the 2 nuts i was talking about. the next 2 pictures show the triangle bracket it takes some finess in removing it and patience but it does come out. I remember turning the bracket so the inside of the triangle faces the back of the door? Don't know how to describe it. hope that helps.

flu_by_u

I will try it when I get home tonight. I will let you know my outcome.

flymikemc

Man great timing I am working on restoring my car and it needs some TLC on the inerds of the doors. I didn't even know where to start on tearing her down and was going nuts. Your post came just in time to save my ****. Your the man! Thanks

z28 TPI

Sweet nice to hear. Funny thing is I'm going to make a thread on rebuilding the lock actuator or at least cleaning it and greasing it. Let me know how the removal goes and if I need to add anything, that and if you need bigger pictures I have them.

flymikemc

Cool, thanks!

flymikemc

Well I finally got it out. It was a ***** though. As I got to the bottom roller I was concerned about how close you have to get the lower bracket to the front pillar. I was worried it would scratch the paint on the post by the front window. I managed not to but man is that a tight fit.

Now I need to figure out the best way to change the window motor. It runs but slowly and I sure as crap don't want to have to go back in later. I started all this just mainly to change the outer window felt. I couldn't get to the middle two screws even with the window hanging loose in the door and the lower rear bump stop broken off. (it already was)

z28 TPI

I see what you mean yeah I will add that hopefully to the above posts. Man its good you got that out I can understand how it could be a chore. hmmm now to figure out how to edit my posts.

flymikemc

Hey, what would be the best lube for the window tracks? Any thoughts? Thanks

z28 TPI

I was thinking about this. I thought that regular bearing grease would be okay but the smell from hot days might get inside the cab. Lithium grease would work well, or if you can I would run down to the parts store and get molybdenum grease it I think is synthetic. That I use to use in the rides I maintained for a while works great doesnt have a bad smell to it. The choice is yours, but i would use moly.

tallshenanigans

Do you happen to remember exactly how you replaced your broken window? I have the same issue, some asshat broke out my window trying to steal my baby. now i've finally got a replacement coming, and am looking for some help on the install process so i dont bork it all to heck.

da.slyboy

iTrader: (1)

It depends if your replacement comes with the track attached. I received mine from a salvage yard and it still had the track on it. So I know it's possible (and some of the posts above confirm this) to remove and install the window with the track on it. However it's probably best to have a couple people help with that process since the window is large and awkward to move around. Since I had no one around to help (and was doing it in an apartment parking lot at the time) I found it easier to drill out the metal on the plastic washers that hold the glass to the track, then put the track together in the door, then slide the glass in from the top and onto the track (which was real easy at this point). I then reinstalled the plastic washers that clamp the window to the track and fastened them with some large washers (which fit the shape perfectly) and short bolts, being sure not to torque them too hard. During this process I also loosened all the tracks in the door to reattach the window and door tracks and allow for some moving room.

Now I wish I would have taken a picture of the whole thing so my description makes more sense, but hopefully this helps you out. Oh and I did this with a power window set-up

flymikemc

If you remove the side mirror, window sweep and tape up the A pillar so you don't scratch it you can get the window in and out. It is a pain but if you fenagle it it will go. Sometimes you have to slightly flex the window opening of the door apart to aid in getting it in but it goes. The little window track roller can be a pain to get to go through so be patient. If you can get a friend to help you will save yourself some pain. I did it myself but had to sweat and cuss for my first few tries then it finally popped in. It is a PITA but you don't have to take the track apart to do it. Mine was powered as well. Good luck.

After rebuilding my driver door on the car I decided since the passenger door needed some body work to go ahead and take it off the car and put it on saw horses. I still have to do some work on the door but I imagine that getting the window back in will be slightly easier since the A pillar won't be a problem. Here are a few pics of the rust areas that I had to deal with. It was right in the door hinge area. I guess this is what happens when you let the window sweeps go for too long.

http://s814.photobucket.com/albums/z...aro%20Project/

tallshenanigans

ok, thanks. i just got my window yesterday, but seeing as its window and cold as frack-all out, its hard to get motivated to work on it. not to mention its put away for winter anyways and not out in the element getting beat on. I will take a look soon though, and prolly document the findings. thanks again.

BlackRS839

Well the method does work. Took a couple hours to remove the glass from the donor door. Since my window was blown out by an idiot I think ill drill those out, and drill the rivets on the new glass and use thin nuts and bolts to attach, should make installing the glass a piece of cake. I will post what doorman pieces I use to secure the glass into my door my only concern is clearance issues.

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

this works well with door off the car. don't know if i would have the patience to try on the car though. had to get another door cause of window motor rivet pull a metal chunk out. i wanted my glass because of tint and not as bad a donor door. this thread very good. next to no other thread i could find had this kind of info. thanks z28 tpi

z28 TPI

Your welcome. I do agree it does take SOME patience to try. I would agree with taping up your a pillar before trying just in case. And a second set of hands makes for an easier time.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

OK - for those of you who have done this - I can get one roller out of the track - but that's it. How does the second roller come out? I think it is probably just easier to drill out the rivets, and either use nuts and bolts or new rivets. Any insight before I bust out the drill?

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Just an update - I got the driver side out only because I had done the window motor once before and the regulator was bolted in. Once I took out those bolts I was able to get the window out. But it is a tight fit, and I really think it would just be easier to grind off the rivets holding the track and replace them later. It is too much wrestling with it, I scratched the A pillar, which I don't care because I am disassembling the car for paint, and it takes a lot of patience, not to mention that there is the risk of breaking the window. I am just going to take out the rivets on the passenger side. I need to invest in a large rivet gun to reassemble the door properly anyway.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

I just did the passenger side by grinding off the rivets. I removed the front triangle and guide, the rear guide, ground off the rivets and removed the window in about 20 minutes. This is the way to go. No struggling or fuss. Even if you don't have a rivet gun, you could use some nuts and bolts to reassemble it. The hardest part about it is getting the large guide in the front of the door to come through. When I reassemble the driver's side, I am going to grind off the rivets and reassemble it inside the door. Trust me - I tried doing it both ways, and it is much easier to take the glass off of the track.

micktroup2

Sorry to bring back an old thread- but I disagree with 82tarecaro: Once you get the hang of it, it is actually pretty easy to do. I pulled a doner window from the junkyard. Great practice. There are three keys as far as I can see- 1) strip EVERYTHING off the door; triangle. tracks, felts, guides, 2) critical to remove the short transverse track from the middle of the door(two bolts). This allows the lifting arms to swing loose so you can manouver the glass out- just be ready, because that glass suddenly swings wildly when that track is removed.3) the door has to be ALL THE WAY OPEN to get the glass out the front opening. I found a relatively serviceable window in the junkyard as I said. Got all excited, opened the door and BANG it hit the Camry next to it. Damn it!! So, 10 minutes with a 10mm socket and a pair of wire cutters for the window harness and I had that Camry door off and out of there! Got the Camaro door opened into the rear seat area of the Camry(!) and out came the window glass!
Putting it in, if I remember, is a) tape the glass COMPLETELY on both sides with painters tape, as well as the parts of the door that it might contact(didn't want to scratch the new window); b) get it into the door itself through the front opening; slide the track onto the rearmost scissor roller; c) slide it all the way back and then forward onto the front scissor roller; d) reinstall the middle, transverse slide onto the last scissor roller(this stops the window swinging in the wind!); install the outer sweep;install the window triangle and front track(pinch the track back together by hand, making it a little tighter for the window to ride in- takes care of one of the mystery rattle sources); remove tape and slide the window forward into the front track; install the rear track onto the back roller and bolt to the door; install the two inner felt pieces and adjust the window!

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

You can do it whichever way you want. I had my windows back together in a few minutes with pop rivets. Removing a window from the junkyard and assembling a car that is freshly painted are 2 totally different things.

BLACK92B4C

Thanks for the tips, will come in handy! I am looking for a replacement, E-bay vendors are list 1982-1988 windows only, are the different than my 1992 car?

BLACK92B4C

It went really easy for me...fresh painted car, so I already had the door handle, window sweep, and door lock out. Came out real easy, never got close to the pillar. I brought the rear roller up to the top and then pulled the window in towards the car, almost 90, and popped it right out. Assembly was just the reverse. About one hour start to finish. Now it is taking me longer to get the tint off the replacement window. I need to find a replacement "vehicle protected by an anti-theft" decal if anyone has any leads

The shop wanted $176 just to remove and replace, and I would have had to take time off from work to drive the car there. Much better to do it at home!

Thanks for the write up, much easier than figuring it out trial and error!

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Contact member Jlarsson - he may have a set of those decals left.

zs&tas

great thread ! glad i found it, i need to get to those pesky rubber/felt screws on the door...........

flcl666

Thank you God for you putting this up

Alnhotrod76

Does the window need to be rolled up or down? Do you remove the motor?