kubus_stroinski

Hey guys,

I have started the process to do an LS1 swap. I have an engine, a transmisson, accessories, pedals, hydraulics, motor mounts, tranny crossmember, vats and rear o2 bypass modules, fpr and new lines etc

I am looking at my options for an intake and wanted your advice. What did you guys do? Where did you buy it? Thanks a lot!

Kubus

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Are you wanting to go carb?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

NICE!! Someone that has the major ducks in a line! Sounds like you did some homework. Are you asking about the intake from the filter to the throttle body? I got most of my parts from http://intakehoses.com . For a filter, I used a K&N...which I just removed and replace with an AMSOIL.

Here are a couple pics. If you werent talking about this kind of intake...forgive me.







With the Amsoil filter..



The size of the tubing and parts depend on the size of the throttle body, which MAF you run, and what filter you want to use.

If you have anymore questions ask away man!

Justin

kubus_stroinski

you rock. thanks a lot for the info. this helps a lot. what size of piping do i need? its a stock 2000 ls1 with no mods.
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i just noticed you're in PA Justin. will you be around end of August (around the 20th). i'll be doing my swap in Laureldale with my uncle and another mechanic. if i run into problems would you be up for giving us a hand?

kubus_stroinski

and one more question. which pieces did you purchase for your intake? sorry about all these but i havent really thought about an intake yet.

VenomX-87

don't mean to butt in here but youre intake manifold ghettocruiser (or whatever its called on injected cars) it looks like alloy but I thought all LS1s had plastic intake manifolds

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

VenomX-87: Thats the FAST 90mm intake Its grey in color...and mine is dirty...soon to be painted. There are cast versions though...

kubus_stroinski: As far as the parts that you need, like I said it all depends on the size of your parts. Measure the OD of your throttle body opening, and the OD of your mass air flow sensor, and that will tell you what size intake parts to use.

For example, lets just say everything measured 3.5" in diameter. It would go like this...Ill post part numbers from the site I gave you too...so you can visualize what ya need.

90* Elbow (90L35), then the MAF goes into that, 3.5" Straight Sleeve (C40B-350X3, this is for a silicone one...I think they look better), 3.5" alum tubing at about 6" long (AL35X6), then a filter of your choice with a 3.5" neck opening.

I used t-bolt clamps, which are definetly overkill, but they look great. Much better than worm clamps in my opinion. You can see in my pics that I still need to order one to finish it off. The t-bolt clamps can be found on that site as well. So...you can order everything but the filter right from that site.

Just a word of warning...all the parts might not need to be the same size. You might need to use a reducing elbow, or a reducing sleeve to mate them up.

I will be on vacation until like the 13th of aug...then my car is going in for a tune, but around aug 20th I should be around. Laureldale isnt too far from me, maybe 45minutes. I might be able to swing up and give you a hand. IF nothing else just to check out the car and shoot the breeze. Let me know!

Justin

A10Beav

iTrader: (1)

I used a 3.5" pipe welded to a 45 degree elbow, a reducer piece was needed after the MAF because I couldn't find a 3.75" pipe; I didn't want a 4" pipe downsized in front of the MAF.

406TPI

iTrader: (1)

I used all 4inch tubing on mine....just used two reducing silicone couplers for the MAF....4-3.5 inch if I remember correctly. Lots of ways you can go about it.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

406... I swear you have the cleanest LS1 swap Ive ever seen... That thing is clleeeeaaaannn...

I went with all 4" because I had an 85mm maf sensor on there. For my tune, I need to use a stock MAF...Tuners preference and who am I to argue. So Im going to go back to the site I posted earlier and ordering a reducing elbow, and a reducing sleeve to install the 75mm stock MAF. Ill go back up to the 85 once I get some tuning software and learn...

Justin

VenomX-87

406TPI are you running any emissions on that thing coz i don't see any wires... Anywhere lol.

damn that is clean, nice job!

406TPI

iTrader: (1)

What are emmisions???LoL I'm lucky enough to live in a state where that's not an issue.

Thanks for the compliment!

James

cam-

406TPI nice work bro

socal

if its efi ls1 go with a 90mm tb 4 bolt cable driven and an ls2 intake or just a stock ls6. as far as cold air we bought a gto kit and it worked perfectly w no mods other then relocating the vac ball and charcol can

VenomX-87

So if you were stoped by a cop and they looked at youre engine and saw you didn't have any emissions you wouldent get in s#!t?

kubus_stroinski

thanks to all those who have helped out in my project so far. i picked up my engine and transmission on saturday. here it is. project will start in a bit less than a month. i cant wait!

MrDude_1

when you have your PCM re-flashed, you wont need the things in bold anymore... you can then re-sell them and get some money back.

since Caspers stopped making the rear O2 sims, you can probably sell them for MORE then what you paid for them new.

406TPI

iTrader: (1)

Nope

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

kubus_stroinski: thats a good looking motor and trans. Really clean... Is it just a clean pull out or did someone power wash it???

Either way, its gonna look good in your car after its in!

J.

kubus_stroinski

your guess is as good as mine. it was pulled out of a 7 year old car so my guess would be it was cleaned but i dont know. i havent physically seen this motor. Im in Chicago and its in Pennsylvania at my Uncles shop. He just picked it up and thats all I know right now. Im really excited about this.

socal

looks like you got a good deal we used an ls f-body rad and the stock hoses w PS cooler worked out perfect. the more stuff you start with the easyer it'll go good luck

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

Motor looks good. How much did you pay for it all if you don't mind me asking??

YOu have quite a bit less work to do than I do...here is mine 2 months ago. Since then i've got it on an engine stand and everythign in a garage. I"ll be keeping track of your build as it will help me with mine.

kubus_stroinski

Well I built the intake finally. Here it is

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Looks good man! What are you doing for the IAT??

J.

cam-

New news ( at least from me ) Regarding IAT this is ****IMPORTANT****



After a few trips to the track with my tuner and learning more about how the PCM functions and dialing in my tune I learned some important parameters. In short what all of us in this thread have done with the intake breather underhood SUCKS bawls for performance. The PCM pulls timing out as soon as the IAT reaches 90 degrees which is practically always with our underhood breather set ups. Take your time and run the intake outside the car like 91GTA see link attached post number 3

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fire...y-ls1-gta.html

Even if you have to do this with Home Depot rubber connectors and PVC pipe I recommend... Makes a 6 MPH difference in my car through the traps.... Thats HUGE. Extend the IAT wires long enough and mount the sensor in the intake piping but outside the engine compt. Very worthwhile mod and should be considered mandatory. This is new info to me too so I'm sharing as I'm getting.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

In that link...the only picture thats working for me is the bottom of the three in post #3. And I see his IAT located in the intake elbow...

Does one of the other pics show something different?

Of course if you run the IAT into cooler air you will run stronger. Wont it richen things up a bit? Making the PCM think its cooler than it is? I think there is a plug in module (resistor) that has the same effect I believe.

I just figured that since they were located in the air box on the stock 4th gens, that the intake tube would be just as good... Ide like to hear more about this though.

J.

MrDude_1

you still want the IAT sensor near the throttlebody.
its there to measure the temp of the air actually getting to the motor. theres no need to extend it.

yes, a cold air intake works better then a warm one.. mines still underhood, but its over enough to the side that it gets air from the fender and behind the headlights...


as for the 90* thing.. well its 92* out right now...everywhere. lol.

cam-

Ummm ya it would seem to be there sorry about that. I dont know why I thought it was outside I looked and did not see and seeing as he seems to fly I just figured he must have done it. Anyways it is an issue...

The problem is with it mounted as we have behind the rad it becomes heat soaked and picks up under hood temps. Anything passed 90 degress and it begins to pull timing. 90 degress is not hot at all mine was sitting at around 150!!

The only way to confirm if this is happening to yours is to log it and see if it is which I would bet it is. Its a very subtle effect I noted no seat of the pants feel but it sure does make a difference in MPH. It cant just be relocated to a cool place you must have in in the intake somewhere that the air flow is present. An intake similar to 91GTA with the IAT mounted just underneath the fender in the intake piping outta do it. Wont do anything wrong to the engine after all this is the air its running on so you might as well have it running right. The stock IAT sensors are slow plus once the IAT housing itself is heat soaked your toast it will pull timing out.

On another note even a bone stock 07 ZO6 that we were playing with the same day made a .5 second improvement and a 7 MPH gain. Unreal for such a "free mod"

I'm not sure about those resistors I dont see any issue with lengthening a couple of wires and being stock safe.

Anyways an easy way to see the effect is drive to the track and run your car a couple passes. Then let it sit for an hour with the hood open in the shade so everything cools off. Then push it up to the line and only start it when you have to run. Enjoy the results

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True nuff but the PCM is still pulling timing out. I dont think it cares where the heat comes from. I'm not sure of the scale of pull vs temp I just know it makes a huge difference. At least it did in my case

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Ok...just for my own clarification... Cam, you are talking about the IAT sensor right? Not relocating the air filter to outside the engine bay...?

After I re-read what you posted, I kind of got the idea you were saying the filter was pulling in hot air and that moving it outside the engine bay would really help. Thats one thing I wish I would have done. But I chose to mount my fuse boxes right where I would have dumped the intake down to mount the filter outside.

J.

cam-

Yes relocate the air breather to outside the engine bay or encase it and duct it so it cant suck underhood air. Then move the IAT sensor closer to the air intake at least away from behind the rad as I ( and I think most of us ) have done. The whole sensor and piping itself gets hot being mounted there and pulls out timing which affects peak power.

In short a cold air intake is a big bonus on these engines and moving the IAT sensor away from the rear of the rad to a less heated area is a good idea to keep it running as fast/efficient as it can. I'm moving mine outside the engine compartment mounted in the intake piping exactly how it is now just a couple feet further out so it does not get heat soaked and works as it should.