alan91z28

I recently picked up a '85 IROC in good overall condition as a project car for this winter. It is a 305 HO with a 5 speed.

As i haven't laid it up for winter yet and have been driving it occasionally on weekends when nice i have only done some minor updates in the interior and have been planning out a major drivetrain upgrade for this winter.

I have a decent amount of funding to potentially put in this project and am planning on keeping this project car

My thoughts are to utilize a new Hot Cam LS376/480 with a TKO600. Have been looking at sphon website for the mounts and k member upgrade etc

One question i have is on gauging as want to utilize all the present dash. The speedo i upgraded to a 145 already and since it is mech that is no problem to interface to the TKO. How about the sensor gauges and tach?

Also in general i am think the LS1 conversion steps pretty much apply to this approach with the LS3.

Any thoughts appreciated... While i am pretty much have my mind around this idea i won't start until after Christmas and haven't bought the motor / tranny yet so open to ideas

Thanks

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Welcome aboard thirdgen.org.

Yes, it's basically an LS1 swap, which is why it's been moved to that section.

I'm not sure about the TKO600. Make sure it has the right input shaft length for LSx usage. You'll have to wire in VSS, which is a different pulse rate than 3rd gen.

Gauges etc. are covered in the swap sticky and many threads in this subforum.

alan91z28

after looking at the TKO and the Richmond, i am debating on which one to go with. i am considering going with the richmond 5 speed super street as i have been reading quite a bit of information with some complaints on the tko600 with shifting problems getting into 3rd

any opinions?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Why not an LSx T56?

alan91z28

one of my concerns has been to make sure that whatever tranny i swap in has enough robustness. as i am starting out with the hot cam'd LS3 i worry that the T56 rating is being pushed for this combo. also while not going to be done now i have thought about in the future adding a supercharger like i have done on my '91 a long time ago.

the only other thing that also made me shy away from the t56 was it really has two overdrive positions but that isn't really much of an issue

my main reason for looking at the tko600 / richmond 5 speed was to get something beefy enough i could swap it once and not worry about it too much

SheldonZ28

iTrader: (1)

A simple re-build on the T56 and it will have no problems handling what ever you can throw at it.

alan91z28

Seems like the Richmond is also a closer direct bolt in with its full rating of 600 ft lbs out of the box. Downside is it is clearly the most expensive by quite a bit

How about the rear ends... Have you guys been changing your axles out as the rear end of these cars from the factory doesn't look like it has much margin.
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87CIZ

iTrader: (8)

You'll run in to a few issues swapping an ls3 unless you buy gm's computer and wiring. Using an ls1 wiring harness you need several adapters from katech and 1 adapter that hasn't been released yet. That's the map sensor adapter it's still in testing. The Ls3 intake is different than ls1 or ls2 type.

alan91z28

for the ecm and harness i was going to probably go with speartech... when i called them they had pretty much a plug 'n' play harness developed with the new ecm tuned how you want it ready to go. their set-up includes using an electronic feedback throttle peddle

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I wonder if a TR6060 from a Viper would work? Aren't they still a conventional transmission (mounts to the engine)? Probably not the same input shaft though. And I'm sure they aren't cheap.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

look up Six Speeds Inc for good quality rebuilds on the factory t56 to handle upwards of 1000+ ft/lbs for less than a richmond piece of junk. they won't work with the ls series motors anyhow because of the input shaft depth.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

+1

That was the decision that I made - & now I have one of their Stage IV units, sitting on the floor just ready & waiting to make my 9-bolt cry...

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

on the topic of rears go ahead and save up about 2500 and get a good moser 9 inch or 12 bolt...a built 10 bolt would be a time bomb behind a good running ls3 and if you are lucky enough to have a bw 9 bolt it will only be marginally better....i look forward till the day when my swap is done and my 6.0 grenades my 9 bolt...(then ill have a valid excuse to run past the old lady why i need a 2500 dollar rear end lol)

87CIZ

iTrader: (8)

don't forget the strange s-60. I've got one under my 02' it's nice and the price is right.

alan91z28

i think for the rear end i am going to go with the strange s-60... it looks really good and robust and also gives an easy way to upgrade to disc brakes

Klortho

For the transmission, look at D&D Performance, they are the biggest Tremec dealer and have good prices on their transmissions, new and rebuilt, and also do a really good job on the rebuilds. Several people I know who rebuilt the T56 get all their parts from them.

The 6060s are a different breed of 6-speed, they are the ones that also came in the GTO's and the new Shelby's

cam-

Six Speeds Inc closed their doors the other day so I hope you didnt order anything from them recently. I had been reading some very bad posts about them o n some other local boards about not shipping out parts and excuses etc. Which seemed very odd because not long ago they were the best place to go. Sad to see them fold but obviously there were "issues" causing the poor service.

alan91z28

Looks like i am going to have to do some more research on the final transmission choice...

On a different topic what have you guys been doing for the front accessory drives (ps, ac, etc)... using 4th gen components or i think someone makes brackets to remount your third gen parts i saw

Shinobi'sZ

hmmmm I have only made 1000hp through my M12 tranny in my Z...how much power are you worried about. I had 500hp in my 97 M6 and it saw time at the strip and road course and there were no issues with it.

alan91z28

Well I finally am getting going on my swap... Work was really busy at the end of the year so I didn't make much progress, but getting going now

Attached is an image of my '85 Iroc I am starting with. I did get time to put a Bend Pak 4 post lift in my pole barn before Christmas. So far i am very happy with it. It went together very well and seems well built. I got the 12,000 lb model so the Iroc is pretty light duty for it. It will be a big help on the underside work. I am going to get a roller jack as right now just have a jack tray

My friend and I could not get any response out of spohn despite calling about 10 times to their tech line last week as i was thinking of getting most of my parts from them initially. I decided then to call bruce at Hawks and was real glad i did as he is very knowledgable and spent a lot of time going through the choices many of which i changed from my initial thoughts.

Some of the details we decided on that I am getting from Hawks are
- 9 inch moser axle
- BMR suspension components including welded on sub frame connects that will also be used to connect the torque arm to for added strength
- BMR k frame, a arm with coil over, etc up front
- 4th gen poly tank with in tank high pressure pump
- Baer front and back sport disc system

Other components i am working to finish up the specs and procure
- LS3 Hot Cam 376/480 HP package (will probably get from Pace)
- Richmond 5 Speed with overdrive
- Lakewood Bellhousing with Centerforce Clutch and hydraulic throwout

I still need to work on the exhaust etc, but again bruce gave me a good tip on with headers not going to be able to use a mechanical throwout on the richmond clutch so got me headed in the right direction

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

You could probably save some money on the brakes if you give Ebmiller a PM on here or visit his site @ Flynbye.com. Most Baer stuff is just relabeled GM stuff at twice the price.
Also, why'd you decide on M5 instead of an M6?

alan91z28

Bruce at Hawks spent a lot of time talking about the technical merits of a lot of what i am getting and that has a lot of value to me so i am glad to give him the business as good responsive tech advice and service is hard to come by

I decided to go with the Richmond 5 as it is rated for 600 ft-lbs... The LS3 hot cam version goes about 475 ft-lbs and i may hop it up further next year so wanted to have plenty of gear set...

hopefully i will start to see the parts show up in another week, this next weekend we are going to try and get all the old stuff dropped

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I understand that, but I always prefer to go with the best product at the best price- which is usually, but not always, Ed's stuff.

Aren't the stock T56s rated at something like 450-550? If built, they can withstand alot of abuse. I know the new TR6060s are put behind the new 600hp V10s in the Vipers and they back the 638hp LS9s. Might be worth looking into.

1bdbrd

iTrader: (1)

As has been previously mentioned, go with a T56 for ease of install plus to keep the cost down. There are a few weak points to the T56 but those have been addressed for anything a crappy hot cammed LS3 can put out. I would also look into just getting the standard LS3 and sticking a custom grind cam in it. There is a LOT of power left somewhere in the LS3 that I don't see a hot cam pulling out.

I would also really consider your future plan carefully with what you do now. You could end up spending a lot of money twice or just not running like you really think it should.

cam-

Great swap and I too will echo your remarks about Hawks service and promptness. I had a few excellent experiences dealing with them and would recomend them to anyone.

That said I'm not trying to sound like a broken record here but... The t56 is a serious upgrade over that Richmond 5 gear ( heck it even has one more gear ) but the most important reasons are; Cost, Durability, Ease of operation, Strength.

#1 pro for the t56 is the amazing amount of aftermarket support and parts. Mainly CLUTCHES. Cheap, tough ( how about low 9 second tough? ) and that clutch can still be had for less than a grand with a SFI flywheel. To my knowledge there has been no good reason and therefore practically ( I say practically because theres always the guy who just wants something different which is cool ) but those exceptions aside I have yet to see one single guy who wants to bang his own gears on any LS car that ever ditches the t56 in favor of a Richmond or any other smash box for that matter. You have to be making well in excess of 1000 rwhp before the t56 becomes a weak link with minimal upgrades or none if you can drive.

I run an LS7 set up that I bought for about $400.00 shipped brand new with flywheel and cut consistent 1.6x 60's and two years of pounding on that thing. Cant beat that for that kind of coin and for twice that coin you get the best stuff available plus its all proven theres no need to try this or try that just post you HP goals over at tech and look at what the hardcore guys are running.


#1 detraction for the t56 is the damn hydraulics are a SOB and need constant attention or they go kaput but the good news is its easy to do you just suck out the fluid from the reservoir once a week and replace it with fresh and you will never have a problem.

Also the Hot Cam is pretty mild and not any cheaper than an aftermarket cam that will probably net you another 20 rwhp and give up nothing in terms of civility so that is another area that you might want to look into.

All that said though there is ZERO "wrong" with your very nice build so dont take any of what i said as a knock against you man I just figured that you could get better performance for the same ( or less ) money if you examined some other options. Its going to be a sick car

Keep posting I cant wait to see that thing done!

1bdbrd

iTrader: (1)

I agreed with everything you said above except for this. I am not sure why you would need to change the fluid weekly? If you do the drill mod to the line everything should work great. A local guy went low 11s for about 4 years or so on his daily driven (even in the snow) 98z28 and I would bet he has never changed his fluid. Maybe this is something most just don't and dont talk about though..?

cam-

Its very common to get the "pedal sticks to floor" issue or "Wont shift into third" etc etc. Ranger has pretty much become the authority on this issue and has done numerous write ups and whatnot about how to avoid t56 hydraulic problems and the easiest most foolproof method is to simply change the fluid frequently.

Sticky over at Ls1tech about this;

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/manual...-write-up.html

FAQ sticky on t56 from tech ( older info here with links to Rangers methods )

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/manual...ere-first.html


The newest attempt to resolve these issues is from Tick performance who has developed a new master cyl which is the latest greatest problem free claim and so far seems to be pleasing everyone but its going to take a few seasons to "prove' its worth to me.

alan91z28

i have been debating on the throw out bearing style...

on one hand the older external slave set-up is well proven and has the advantage of running cooler and easier to service... the big disadvantage is pretty much in the way of any type of header

on the new direct hydraulic bearing i was looking at mcleod's offerings... thanks for the link to the ls1tech site write up that was very informative and has a lot of good advice

you are right, part of the reason i am going with the richmond is that it is different than what everyone else is doing

i am going to get a good centerforce clutch set-up, but still need to finalize my decision on the throwout

on a different note completely, my interior of the '85 iroc has the red light contour "CAMARO" seats... has anyone seen a refurb for this style seat, they are faded and my drivers side has a wear through spot

1bdbrd

iTrader: (1)

Ive got 2 good friends with 6 speed ls1s. One has a bolt on car that can rev to 6500 and shift just fine. He had the drill mod done. The other has a 408 that revs to 6500 and I have personally had it not hit 3rd or any other gear after running it out to the limiter. He has stock lines.

Either way, you don't need to constantly change your fluid, nor do you really HAVE to buy the tick performance slave. Just do the drill mod before your setup goes in and you shouldn't have a single problem.

cam-

I have the drill mod done on my car. Brand new everything in 07 right from GM, hydraulics master/line/slave, Clutch/flywheel, and for two seasons it was great I shifted at 7K no problem but last season i got lazy with changing the fluid and by the end of the summer? Pedal sticking to floor trying to get 3rd.

I have since flushed the fluid twice and its better but still not perfect. I'm glad your friends have faith in their systems and I hope it continues to work well for them if they ignore this potential problem they might get lucky but its an easy thing to avoid. Stickies are not created because its not a common problem there are hundreds of threads about this over at tech because it is a very common problem so dont take my word for it check it out for yourself.

I'm only trying to keep the info as accurate as possible 1bdbrd so please dont take this as any personal flame fest or any of the like I'm not trying to win any last word contest I'm only trying to keep the info accurate trust me when I say the hydraulic problems with LS1's are one of the biggest gripes owners have.

Alan there are threads over in restoration section that have info on re-covering those seats and sourcing the correct material etc. Perhaps a search? As for the retro-fit throw out bearing applications there is quite a bit of info on that on some of the non Camaro specific boards where guys make all sorts of hybrids but again the support is limited in comparison but I know I for one would love to hear about what route you take and how it works out. I'm always looking for the new tech info!

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Backing cam up on the whole hydraulic thing. Ive been fighting my hydraulics ever since I built my first car. Ive had atleast two new master cylinders, and have replaced the slave cylinder with similar results. I even ran my hydraulic line inside the car to avoid heat issues...that plus the race blue fluid that I use helped a lot. But its still not great.

The Tick MASTER cylinder (not slave), seems to help everyone that buys it. So you shouldnt be too quick to discount it. If it was available when I built my second car, I would ahve gone with it before another new stocker. Ive been in comm. with them about whether or not it will fit a thirdgen. Since the firewall area is a bit different.

Either way... to the OP.... Ill re-enforce what most are saying. Stick with the T56. A "hot-cam" LS3 wont be too much for a T56...and they are pretty cheap to rebuild with good parts. Im running one with the Viper upgrade output shaft, and all the internals are beefed. WAY overkill for my motor...and I make good power.

Too bad you couldnt get ahold of Spohn. I run all his parts except for SFCs and they've been perfect. Bruce at hawks wont steer you wrong. Hawks sells a lot of spohn parts as well... If he says its the way to go, you can trust him. Good call on things like the 4th gen tank and S60... That S60 will suck alittle bit of power, like my 12-bolt does, but you wont break it.

Good luck and keep us updated once you start gettin work done!

J.

cam-

Yeah your right I have no real info or reason to thrash on Ticks new master I just personally would like to see some more mileage on those set ups before I vouch that it is the ultimate fix. It sure looks promising though thats for sure. I'm pretty frustrated with mine too I hope I can work this out as it was working flawlessly for the first year but I was following Rangers fluid swap advice and last year I was soooo busy I ignored this and now I'm up the creek.

Mind you I'm going nuts I can hardly wait to start wrenching on my car again. I've got suspension mods and tuning ideas and my hands are just waaaaaay too clean these days I need me some grease

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I hear ya there brother.. My car is in a tin storage box and it sucks. Im itching so bad to do something...anything.

Like you, Ide like to see some more road time with the TICK master cylinders...but so far, they seem to fit the bill. Making sure the floor mat doesnt slide under the clutch pedal has helped me out some as well...hahaha.

J.

alan91z28

Started making some decent progress this weekend. Got the exhaust, drive shaft, transmission, and engine out, etc... The LS3 is certainly going to be a much more cleaner set-up than the original '85 carbed high output 305... unbelievable how many hoses and vacuum lines that thing had

After reviewing the posts and also talking some more to Bruce as well as looking at the info at the DD perf web site, i think i am going to go with a beefed up T56 viper style probably from DD perf. I am going to look into the Tick master cylinder as that seems to big the biggest issue. Probably now going to go with a spec 4+ clutch after talking with bruce

Also we switched the rear end to a moser 9" versus my original thought on the s60... after discussing it a lot it sounded like while we were buying a pretty much bullet proof rear end for this set-up we can pretty much get the same reliability with the moser with a lot less weight

need to work on cleaning up the wiring harness and get the old engine connections pulled out. as i got the moser axle in 3 days from the order i am going to start on the rear end first.

also debating on keeping AC or not... i never use AC as here in PA the weather is mild and i like driving with windows down and as much as possible with the top down on my '91 or the t-top off on this one. i think the engine bay would end up a lot cleaner without it but i am still debating that point

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i know that alot of people will be in favor of keeping the AC, but i definitely feel you on that one. windows down or i'm not taking the camaro. just the way it is for me. the engine bay is far cleaner without it and you don't have to worry about relocating the #8 coil so it doesn't hit the ac box.

cam-

I think you'll prefer the 9" over that S60. The 9" is a power robber but its tough and theres so much support for the Ford diffs i terms of parts and upgrades etc so once your into a 9" or 8.8 your set. The S60 is tough no doubt but its way heavy and how fast do you want to go? 9" is good to 9.0 in the 1/4 and the 8.8 when built is not far off that if at all so overall a wise "upgrade" there IMO.

Everything esle sounds Jim dandy so regarding the A/C? Meh I use it but not as mu8ch as I did before with the old engine oddly enough. In fact its at the point now where if I didnt have it I really wouldn't mind now. Shame too because its a fait bit of work to get it all working smoothly so if your iffy then ditch it. Its a lot of weight and especially a lot of wasted space if you dont need it. I tend to take the roofs off now whenever I can instead. Odd as I never used to enjoy the roof off experience much in years gone by but now I love it.

J's T/A

iTrader: (2)

Look at LGmotorsports for some custom ls3 cams, they have an "executive" cam that has folks over 450rwhp with a stock-like idle.. as well as others.. the cam only LS3 folks are either over or knocking on the door of 500rwhp already.. pretty impressive stuff.

alan91z28

Make good progress on a lot of the remaining disassembly over the past two weeks.

Have pretty much everything out and all the front suspension, etc all out. Also got the ECM out, however took a pretty good cut to the thumb getting the bulkhead connector out, but now have all that harness removed.

I am getting the complete engine controller and harness for the LS376/480 from GM Performance Parts from Pace along with the engine etc.

I need to do some more investigation but it looks like the aftermarket GM Performance Parts harness has a lot of standard gauge drivers etc, ie it is different than the standard production harness. I need to look up the details on this (i have the LS1 kit brochure), has anyone used one of these set-ups? it looks like the wiring will be pretty straightforward.

How about ECM tuners? I am debating between LS2 Edit and HP Tuner, anyone have an opinion?

The brakes and rear axle arrived and hopefully the rest of the stuff from Hawks should get soon (new suspension, built t56, exhaust, etc) as after a little clean up and some underbody paint i should be ready to begin re-assembly.

I also looked at the tick performance sight and i think i am going to try that master cylinder for the clutch

cam-

Not sure about those specific harnesses but its not that tough I'm sure you've read what I have to say about it already so I wont give you the broken record treatment

As for the tuning suite I'm about to jump in as well and I want to buy EFIlive as it seems they have the most fanfare going on right now from the experienced tuner crowd and it looks to be a fairly straight forward interface but HPtuners has the most support and a solid forum for tuner-tuner knowledge. From what I've read about LS1edit ( didnt even know they made an LS2edit ) its a clunkier interface and a bit trickier to work with as a result.

I'm sure whatever route you go with there will be a learning curve. Myself? I'm leaning more towards HP at the moment but still havent laid down any scratch so... time will tell.

Glad to hear your builds coming along

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

You COULD fly out here & help me put my L92 in... (I've even got a spare room to stay in!)

alan91z28

Over the past couple of weeks have made some good progress. Got the underside front to back all stripped down and cleaned. Rented a hotsy steam cleaner that helped get all the all grease and dirt off

While the underside was in good shape as you can generally see from the photo since i had it all cleaned and open i sprayed it with a dupont epoxy primer and then coated it with eastwoods ceramic chassis satin black. It came out real good and makes the whole underside look as new and should provide great protection for the future

alan91z28

Also worked on getting the rear axle ready as we will be working on the rear end assembly first.

I am going with a new 9" from Moser. We welded on new mounting brackets for the sway bar and also control arm extensions from BMR. The BMR control arm extensions needed a little bit of modifying to get the lined up right as the moser axle has larger support weld areas than the stock axle but no big deal

Also welded on the new brake hose mounts that came with the baer disc brake kit

After welding again coated this with the dupont epoxy primer and then eastwood ceramic chassis satin black

alan91z28

We finished up the rear axle assembly, i think it turned out great.

My friend Rich who is helping me on the project did a great job welding on all the components. We welded connectors for the sway bar, lower connecting arms, and brake line tabs including the "t" connection point. This makes for a professional looking axle without the need for cable ties, etc.

The baer brakes came with everything needed and install was a snap.

We used eastwood's chassis black for the axle and clear coated the differential housing for a nice contrasting look

alan91z28

We also started installing the sub-frame connectors.

For this swap all these type of components are from BMR and so far they have all worked out very well.

I have a four post lift so it makes work like this a lot easier i realize then those who are just using jackstands

we made a jig to allow us to support the car evenly in the front on the k member mounting area (the whole front is out of the car) and the two jackstands on the four post lift in the back are holding up the car on the control arm bolts. this insured the car was level and not twisted before we did any of the subframe mounting and welding

The one side we got done with yesterday went in very well, just bolt it to the lower control arm mount and then get the front positioned (we took it on and off for fit up to get the subframe weld tab bent as close in contour to the front subframe as possible, it was close to start but we got it pretty exact) and weld it up.

we welded the front all the way around and then also welded the back. on the back we inserted a metal shim that was included in the bmr kit to take up the distance between the bottom of the car's mount point and the subframe connector.

once we do the other side and weld in the torque arm connection point it should be a very rigid improvement

once everything is in we will clean it up and shoot it with the eastwood paint

alan91z28

We made some decent progress this weekend. For the fuel tank i got a 4th gen unit from Bruce at Hawks with the kit of parts he worked up for me to allow for a good tank with embedded pump and regulator.

I ended up buying a new fuel pump assembly (got it at Autozone and was an identical unit to the stock one that came with the tank) and replaced the fuel pump that came with it with a high performance racetronix pump that i got from Bruce. The instructions that came with the racetronix pump were excellent and made removal and installation very easy.

For the fuel sender i replaced the stock 250 ohm sender with a 0-90 ohm sender (gm part number 25319676). This swap was also very straight forward other than the top locking tabs are not in the same plane as the 250 ohm sender, probably so they aren't accidently swapped. Fortunately the back tabs are identical and the sender slid in place and to tightly secure it i drilled a 5/32" hole and put in a tie wrap to make sure it was tightly held since the top tabs were not going to be used.

alan91z28

Once the fuel pump was ready, installed that back into the tank and then took the rest of the day trying to figure out what to do with the fuel lines.

I had bought a bunch of AN-6 and -8 style race hose and fittings from summit that i was planning to use but that didn't work out as it was just to large for the space available.

Next we spent some effort on hard line and while with some effort got a nice tube that fit the worry in the end was once the tank was mounted up and we were working on the rest of the connections would we flex the line and put stress on the fuel pump fittings which are plastic.

In the end we went with replacement nylon line which worked out well. Got Dorman replacement line from Autozone that had the GM quick connect fitting and while i wanted to go with a braided steel or hard line originally this looks like it will work out well and i will run it to the fuel filter where from there i have new stainless line i got from Fine Lines out of Ohio (along with stainless brake line replacements)

For the harness, i got a replacement pig tail for the 4 pin pump connector from Autozone and soldered on new wiring that i then applied some heat shrink over the joints and put in some new conduit. My plan is to tie the 2 gnds together at the 3 pin chassis connector. No other elec connections are needed to the tank since i am not running evap.

The fuel tank was ready to go once the fuel fill hose was trimmed 2.5" and re-installed

My friend Rich had done a great job earlier in the day finishing up welding in the other subframe connector so after the fuel tank was finished we mounted that up easily and fits up just like the stock 3rd gen tank.

Once that was done we started getting the new moser 9" in place. Used the engine lifter to get it up on the car lift and blocked it up. We got the new springs and rubber donuts in place along with the BMR lower connecting arms before we ran out of time.

Next weekend the plan is to get the shocks on so the axle is suspended allowing us to put on the BMR torque arm and figure out where to weld in the torque arm front suspension point that welds to the subframe connectors we have installed

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Wow, Looks great! You are definitely doing it right the first time.

BTW, how does the Procharged 305 run? Pretty quick?

alan91z28

the paxton supercharger on my '91 was supposed to add about 100 hp... it made a huge difference compared to the stock 305 TPI that the car came with from the factory

alan91z28

we made some good progress over the past 2 weeks. got the subframe connectors all welded in and also the welded in front torque arm connector... it makes for a very strong mount as the torque arm bar welds to each of the subframe connectors so overall really stiffens up the whole car

the bmr parts have been all going on very well, no complaints on any of their stuff so far

alan91z28

yesterday we focused on starting the front end... we are putting in a bmr set-up with new k member, a-arms, and coil over kit.

also took out of the crate the new LS376/480 to see how the k member would fit up as from GM this motor... everything fit up very well, as the tubular k member gives lots of room. i had bought a new f body oil pan, windage tray, etc but the oil pan that came from the factory which is supposed to be the stock corvette pan fit fine so i am leaving it. i thought the corvette trays had "wings" on them but i guess they don't anymore as you can see

the adjustable stocks that i got both had damage to the top adjustors so we weren't able to get the front completely up yesterday

also i got my tick performance master cylinder, anyone install one of these yet in a 3rd gen?