vinceanity92

how do i go about removing a seized front wheel bearing race from the spindle? (92 rs lo3) any help is greatly appriciated

vinceanity92

my dad brought down the whipass on it with a 3lbs mini sledge and a drift pin

Darkshot

iTrader: (4)

You dont just remove it, it has be to be pressed out and a new one pressed in.

MurcoRS

Our front wheel bearings are not pressed on, unless your car is really messed up...

Darkshot

iTrader: (4)

The bearing race is

vinceanity92

the should be pressed in the brake rotor true but mine was stuck got pretty hot, collapsed brake hose = stuck caliper which in turn makes it pretty warm then cooks all the grease out and screws up your bearings

MurcoRS

Ummm, no, it's not.

Guest

One of them is.

MurcoRS

I think the terminology is getting confused here...
Our front wheel bearings, be they inners or outers, A2's, A34's, or A6's are NOT "pressed-on" or "in" for any 3rd gen application. The 8871 seals need to be seated when installed but for spindles and rotor hubs in proper condition there should be no need for mechanical assistance for installation or removal the bearings. You may have built-up varnish on the middle of your spindle (a thick black or brown sludge from old, over-used grease) that may make your inner bearing difficult to remove, but even in that case you should be able to remove the inner bearing manually. I've removed these bearings from 100's of cars and only on cars with seized bearings (that have welded themselves onto the spindle) did I have any need for anything other than a mild yank to remove them. Those that were welded to the spindle required replacement of both spindle and bearing. I think some of you are referring to the inner and outer races that are inside of the rotor's hub, not the inner bearing cone he is talking about - stuck on the spindle! BTW - Those races can be removed and replaced with an inexpensive driver tool, you don't need a press.

Guest

Sure but its still press/interference fit (simple drive punch removal or not), otherwise it'd fall out just like the inner race is supposed to pull right off the spindle. Now if he's replacing the welded to the spindle bearing (I assume so)... he should also replace the outer race in the hub because those just so happen to be mated and also vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Most people dont do that, but thats not a good idea especially on a well worn or damaged bearing.

If it were me, I'd be measuring a good spindle with a micrometer and checking my now heat treated, melted, and maybe galled up spindle on the car. Otherwise the chances of this happening again are... really good.

Terminology eh? Tapered roller bearing. By design, should never be torqued in place. Seen that before... ugly. Even warned them, they didnt listen. I dont know about confused terminology, just inner and outer race and the poster above probably was thinking of the hub side. I hope.

Here's a page for those who are bored and want to read about things like tapered roller bearings, courtesy of Timken.
http://www.timken.com/products/beari...neer/intro.asp

Some more good stuff:
Replacing cone and cup (outer and inner race)
http://www.timken.com/products/beari...Fs/Vol7No2.pdf
Proper preload:
http://www.timken.com/products/beari...Fs/Vol6No3.pdf
http://www.timken.com/products/beari...htips/tip5.asp

If you plan on working for a manufacturer... and putting in the outer races..
http://www.timken.com/products/beari...Fs/Vol3No1.pdf

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I just took a damn screwdriver and a hammer to mine... it was a bitch, but it got the job done.

We used something, I cant remember what, to hammer it back in place. It was a small block of wood or something. Just something to make sure you get the whole thing in there, just tap around it and try to get the whole thing reseated.

Removing it was actually easier than reseating it!

But neither was impossible.

Wait, are you talking about the bearing? Or that brass(?) ring in front of it?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I would have simply replaced the rotors and calipers

99% of decent rotors come with the race already pressed in

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

He was asking about the INNER race, which slides onto the spindle; not the OUTER race, which is pressed into the rotor. Let's not talk about replacing outer races in rotors any more.

Like madmax said, and like I posted in the same guy's thread on the same subject in the Brakes forum, if a bearing failed and its inner race got seized to the spindle, the spindle is ALMOST CERTAINLY ruined too. Even if you can "clean up" the spindle with sandpaper or something, its heat treat is gone, and the surface the bearing goes onto is no longer the exact size it's supposed to be. Meaning, it's not going to stay where it belongs and be stable, and its life will likely be short and troubled.

vinceanity92

damn didnt realize it was gonna be fightin words i got it off though and drove new races into the old rotor(the matched pair from the bearings) and it seems to work fine, as i am not worried about the "heat treat'' or anything its a 1500 $ car i could see if it were a c5 or something but i go to a community college 15 miles away and as long as the wheels turn im not looking for a drag car or anything until i get out of school

vinceanity92

murcors seems to be the only one that understands the situation
any ways

Shagwell

The biggest issue here is terminology. The piece on the spindle is not a "race". The race is the piece that's in the rotor, the bearing rides on the spindle. Yes, you can destroy the bearing cage and all the rollers can fall off, but the piece that would be left on the spindle is still just part of the bearing. A caged bearing is a complete unit, thus the aforementioned "inner race" is part of the bearing.

- as stated, if the bearing has "welded" onto the spindle, tolerances need to be checked after its removal, whether the car is a 200mph drag car or a 1/4 mile commuter to work. If the spindle is hurt it can cause a failure that could easily result in death no matter how the vehicle is being used.