manolis1969

I've been trying to find if anyone makes a stock height (not a drop type) spindle for our cars that is really light weight and can be used on the street.. I'm thinking possibly a tubular chrome molly piece or maybe some type of alluminum billet alloy or something...Anybody know of anyone that makes anything like this for our cars?? ...i know they are made for other cars...

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

never seen any, nor have i never seen a tubular spindle, that would be too weak.

racecraft is all i know of, and they are all dropped.

AlkyIROC

You can get tubular A-arms. You can get an aluminum hub with an aluminum caliper for a lightweight brake package but I've never seen an tubular spindle for a third gen because of the strut design.

Even Ed Quay who makes third gen race cars doesn't offer a tubular spindle.

Wanting a lightweight spindle and wanting it to survive on the street isn't going to happen. You're better off finding some other way to reduce weight.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Who has the alu hubs? I need some hubs or 1le rotors to make hubs from anyway so if the lightweight stuff isn't crazy expensive it may be a good alternative.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

There is someone out there that makes a shock/spindle setup where the shock is the spindle itself....or something like that, but I do know you lose weight, just not sure how much and right now can't find that company.

AlkyIROC

My aluminum hubs are made by Aerospace. They're part of the Aerospace front brake package. I doubt you'll be able to use them with 1LE components.

To find a tubular spindle/shock/strut system isn't that hard but you're not going to find something that will even be close to being a bolt in item for a third gen without having to do a lot of refabrication work.

This is the closest thing you're going to find
http://www.swracecars.com/Files/pdf/CATpg24.pdf

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Those aerospace component brakes are nowhere near adequate for the street, 5/16 thick rotors...thanks but no thanks!!

The above looks like a strange or similar mcpherson type strut, that's drag race only stuff. I wouldn't want that on my street car.

Don't the 2nd gen hubs bolt to out front spindles? I swear there was someone making billet hubs for either 1st or 2nd gens.

iansane

iTrader: (1)

Also Kore3; here.

Shagwell

IIRC it's santhuff who offers a some-what "bolt-in" strut that has the spindle made on it. As the rest of his components, not cheap/for the faint of heart.

There is definitely much better places to reduce weight, especially if the car is to be street driven.

Guest

The problem with trying to reduce weight on the spindle is that its not a part you want to risk failing. The design as is, its total overkill. The reason is that they want it to survive impact from potholes, curbs, other cars...
I guess if you really wanted you could reduce the weight of the spindle, but you're not going to get much unless you replace it with an appropriately sized and designed aluminum piece.

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

1st and 2nd gen stuff is all SLA front end parts. These cars will always use the basic stock style of spindle. They are called "life, and limb" parts for a reason. As mentioned above if you are wanting to save a few pounds up front there a ton of other/better ways to do it!

stage20

iTrader: (3)

racecraft makes a fab spindle.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

I've seen tubular spindles but I would think the weight of a thirdgen would not make it possible to put them on our cars.

Roostmeyer

iTrader: (3)

Beside Kore3, wilwood makes aluminum hubs. I've wanted to try them, but I can't help but wonder how well they'd hold up on 3000lb car with 305's up front. Looks like they go for around $125 a pop at summit w/o bearings. I like that they have provisions to mount a hat or rotor on the backside of hub, but I seem to remember rotor selection being pretty bad for anything very large.

http://www.wilwood.com/HubProd.aspx?itemno=270-11043
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKitsProd...no=140-11012-D

EDIT: looks like you can use a 300-3099 adapter to use 8x7.00" rotors. This has alot more options the 6x6.25" that comes with the wilwood thirdgen brake kit. Also you can run 5 on 4.5" wheels with those hubs, a lot more options in 18x10-11" wheels with 10-20mm backspacing that could work with a spacer on our cars.

572_Rat

TT you are tallking about there drag race brakes, they make a street brake with much bigger rotors, I have them as well and they work great

Billet Aluminum 4 Piston Calipers
Billet Aluminum Hubs with screw in dust caps
Billet Aluminum Mounting Brackets
11 3/4 Diameter .81 Thick Vented Rotors
Grade 8 Hardware
1/2 x 3" long screw in wheel studs
Wheel Bearings
Grease seals
Hawk Performance Brake Pads
Meets All NHRA / IHRA Requirements

Guest

Just check my link for a heavy duty lightweight front brake and suspension package. Shaved spindles, aluminum GW g-body hubs (yes, g-body- designed for a 4000lbs road race g-body car), ARP 1/2" racing studs, Aluminum hats, lightweght massive 13x1.25 rotors, 6 piston aluminum calipers, aluminum mount beackets all heat coated and safety wired bolts. Thios entire wheel assembly is 3 lbs ligjhter than the small factory delco moraine setup.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/518752/6

Dean

PS- ALL THIS FITS UNDER A FACTORY 16"x8" IROC WHEEL!!!!!!!

RTLACY

Vetruck,

Really like this brake setup. In another thread you said GW will not make the G-Body road race hub anymore so what do you recommend instead? Also, are there any concerns if the RaceCraft drop spindles are used?

Roostmeyer

iTrader: (3)

The use of an aluminum hub and the racecraft spindles shouldn't be an issue in itself. There is a thread on corner carvers on the racecraft spindles... lookes like there was an unconfirmed failure or two, but nothing recently. The things I've heard with aluminum hubs is the bearing race press fit loosening up to the point that they are unuseable. On the street you would probably get 10+ years of use compared to a year or so of road race abuse.

blyth18md

Glad im not the only one who remembers hearing some aluminum hub heat/fatigue concerns being voiced, at one point or another.

RTLACY

Thanks for the response.

My question about using dropped spindles with "Vetrucks" set up has to do with the caliper mounting bracket he displays on the cardomain link provided. If I have the brackets made according to the print will they work with the drop? I ask because EBMILLER sells brackets especially for the Race Craft units. Mabe I am not thinking of this correctly but dosen't the 2" drop move the rotor 2" lower than the original caliper mounting location or has this been compensated for in some other way?

Also, I am curious about the "Lightened" spindles. Who does this? Would it apply to the Race Craft spindles or would it make then to weak?

RTLACY

After reading my post it seems the rotor would be moved 2" closer to the caliper mounting point not lower. The spindle itself must be moved higher to lower the car.

Guest

Any time Aluminum is used it should be taken in concideration that the volume of aluminum needed for strength is greater than needed for steel. However, as long as the aluminum is in adequate volume and design, the aluminum will disipate heat much better. Same with aluminum calipers, aluminum hats, and aluminum wheels.

My hubs were CAD engineered from Doug at Global West specificaly contracted by Wilwood through them to be tested and FEA (I think that is the stress anaylisis test on the computer generated image program he used) and were designed to adequately support a 4000 lb G-body road race car with racing rubber sustaining 1.3g on the wheel bearings.

In other words, they were properly engineered from scratch, not just robbed from some other application and turned on a lath.

I put mine through the rigors many many times in the several years I owned the car with the questions brake setup attached, I never had any issues with wheel bearing failure. trust me, I was constantly hard on this car. Anyone local here will tell you my reputation in driving vehicles-I thrash on them and if things break, I build them stronger till they don't break anymore.

I final words, "I build things to handle the way I drive", rather than most who "drive things because they build them"....This is also why I have 2 very expensive carbon fiber driveshafts in vehicles I own. I bought them because I needed to after the aluminum ones did not cut it.

Guest

Check with Kore3.com

I spoke to himn on the phone about a year ago on his aluminum hubs. He can increase the aluminum stock strength for an extra cost to get a stronger mixture of aluminum alloy. I was planning on doing this with my Vetruck someday- just have had other issues on my plate over the last few years.

As for the Racecraft spindles? I know nothing about their integrity or reputation. I have not "heard" anything on them and know nothing about any suspected failures. I trust pictures, not rumors. Its like Sklute and his wheel adapters, he made a great product but so many eople will tell you they "heard" that aluminum wheel adapters break.

AM91Camaro_RS

I have not had my hands on one of these units but I'm sure its safe to say that they moved the caliper mounting location also. They should tell you if they are designed for stock brakes or what. Then, you have to determine which stock setup they are for and where that leaves you as far as what you want to upgrade to.

Guest

I would agree with this assumption- Logically they would have to have the mount higher also in order for the stock brakes to work.

manolis1969

any new information on these spindles?

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Here's a pic of Ed's bracket on Racecraft drop spindle with alum hub.