ZWis212

After I drive my car for around 7 miles when i push the gas it seems like its misfiring and cuts out. Then when I stop while in drive the battery gauge drops while the car idle bogs and shakes the car. Don't know what to do. People on here say could be TPS but i dont know how to check it. Just wondering if anyone could help. Thanks!

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

the charge gauge can drop if rpm's drop too low. and the problem can be caused by a host of things. this will be a process of elimination.

mitchberry

iTrader: (1)

are your injectors dripping???

lol....

my car was doing the same exact thing, i changed the tps, it got worse (or at minimum, not much better), then i changed this module..... dont know what it's called, i just happened to find one on a 95 z28 LT1 (their the same part if you take the grommet off of it) and swapped it out...

There's a vacuum line that runs from the rear passenger side of your tbi, to this black box about 4 inches long, by 2 inches deep, 1.5 tall, and has a green plug that goes into the bottom of it.. vacuum plugs in behind that.

it's mounted just below the weather stripping on the passenger side on your firewall.. it's not hard to get to and is fairly obvious if you're looking in that direction.

on the LT1, it actually plugs right into the top of the intake near the throttle body...
http://www.vetteworksonline.com/LT1_...version/18.jpg
(the obvious black box on top of the pretty LT-4 red intake)

obviously, the one for your car is mounted on a bracket though where i explained previously.

i really don't know what it's called, but... i changed it, and it runs a lot better except for the leaky injectors and the issues they cause.. it's obviously a sensor though.

it made the tps function properly.

i really wish i had a parts diagram for these cars.

it may be the mass airflow sensor... i really don't know. it would make sense if it were..

ZWis212

I was definitely looking at the tps and going to replace that but ill have to check out this part.

Im guessing the part you were talking about is the box to the upper left of my air filter with the green plug sticking out of it. Do you just pull out the vacuum lines from it or what? Im kind of a noob at all this stuff.

ex-x-fire

You need to start w/ a good tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, & filters. If you can find a cap & rotor w/ brass terminals, use that instead of the ones w/ alluiminum terminals.

mitchberry

iTrader: (1)

yeaaaaaaaahhhh that's the one!!! (though mine looked a little different on my 91) sorry for the late reply... and i think i have a correction. apparently there's not a mass airflow sensor on these, there's a MAP sensor though, and that may or may not be what that part is.. lol.. i haven't put any effort into researching what the part is.. sorry

and yeah, basically, unplug the hose, unplug the wires, remove the two bolts, and replace it the same way it came off. it worked wonders on my car though it still doesn't run perfect because of the injectors, which one92rs was kind enough to send me an awesome link for...

i had been researching them for a while, and this link is the cheapest for damn sure..

http://www.injectorwhse.com/servlet/...RO-5.0L/Detail

and of course ex-x is also right. but i have a feeling that the little box is a good start and something that most people overlook. i only found it by chance because i noticed the lt1 parts car we acquired also had one, so decided to replace it as a fail safe.

mitchberry

iTrader: (1)

AH! YEAH! MAP sensor...

http://www.partstrain.com/store/deta...ps10075191mase

ZWis212

When ever i get some money I am going to get a full tune up and buy the MAP sensor and possible the TPS sensor. I looked and the MAP sensor doesnt look hard to replace. If i cant figure anything out ill end up going with the fuel injectors. I drive to school everyday which is only 5 miles away so i can make it there and back no problem.

mitchberry

iTrader: (1)

yeah, the map sensor is about a 5 second install and only needs a phillips head screwdriver.

as for the injectors, if you take the air cleaner off of it, while the car is running at idle, there should be a slight spray coming out of them, no dripping. if it drips their bad. if you give it throttle they should spray an even stream of atomized gas.. if not, their bad. pretty much the gist of it.

iggy1991

you need to diagnose the problem not just throw parts at it hoping to find what it may be and get lucky. Could be fouled or worn our spark plugs and ur talking about sensors that can be tested with a volt/ohm meter to see if they are good or not. Is it only acting up after it warms up? Does it misfire right after you start it up and drive?

ZWis212

Nothing happens until I drive it around 5-10 miles and it starts to warm up. Then it seems like its misfiring and cutting out.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

you need to test the egr valve. also look at vacuum lines to see if they are cracked.

mitchberry

iTrader: (1)

yaaaaay vacuum lines.. im glad we've largely moved beyond that technology these days. i had a porsche 928 that i bought and kept for about 2 weeks and sold specifically because EVERYTHING on that stupid car was run by vacuum.

EVERYTHING... vacuum blinkers, vacuum disk brakes, vacuum seat motors, vacuum door locks, vacuum engine crap, vacuum transmission, vacuum sunroof, vacuum windshield wipers, vacuum flippy lights, vacuum washer fluid,

ok well maybe not ............... but... honestly, about HALF of that -is true-

the thing ran like hell and sounded like a hoover with all those vacuum leaks and nothing worked on the damn thing, so i sold it instead of trying to track all that crap down...

so, then i end up with another vacuum happy car...

<---

did they ever make a tool to test for vacuum leaks? the "stick your head real close to scalding hot motor and hold your jaw just right like you're looking for a lost contact and listen for a loud sucking sound that sounds different from your intake, lifters, exhaust, belts, worn bearings, creeks rattles and EVERYTHING else happening under the hood"

OR THE

"spray some crap on it and see if it bubbles or runs differently" methods REALLY suck in a practical environment.

i'd hope that technology has gotten us past that

ex-x-fire

a smoke machine will help out in finding vacuum, evap, exhaust, & even oil leaks.

RS-Chevy-SS

As stated previously do a tune of, Take th TB off as well and check gasket, they tend to get sucked up.

zenish

another thing to check is to put a scan tool on it and make sure that the coolant temp sender is working right.if the computer thinks the engine is still cold the mixture will be off.there are two.one for the computer and one for the guage.

ZWis212

Thanks for all the help but i ended up getting mad and taking it to the shop. Got it back today and everthing runs perfect (knock on wood). He said the Distributor cap and rotor was all corroded and a mess so he replaced those. I drove around a lot tonight because i was so happy i could drive it problem free. There is nothing in this world like a cruise in the 3rd Gen Camaro. Thanks again for all the comments its really appreciated!