Mechanic put 10W-40 in my engine!
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Broomall, PA
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS; 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Brougham
Engine: LH0 3.1 Liter V6; YBN 2.8 Liter V6
Transmission: TH-700-R4; TH-440
Mechanic put 10W-40 in my engine!
Hey,
I was doing an underhood checkup in my driveway a day after I had my oil changed. I looked on the radiator support to find a sticker that my mechanic puts on the car after every service. It says: Changed oil-10W-40. After reading the oil cap I realize that 5W-30 is supposed to go in there. My engine has 72,000 on it and I want it to last me a long time, does anybody know if 10W-40 is bad for my engine? Or should it be like this because it is older or something. Last time it was changed he put 10W-30 in it and it lasted well. Any help or knowledge is greatly appreciated.
I was doing an underhood checkup in my driveway a day after I had my oil changed. I looked on the radiator support to find a sticker that my mechanic puts on the car after every service. It says: Changed oil-10W-40. After reading the oil cap I realize that 5W-30 is supposed to go in there. My engine has 72,000 on it and I want it to last me a long time, does anybody know if 10W-40 is bad for my engine? Or should it be like this because it is older or something. Last time it was changed he put 10W-30 in it and it lasted well. Any help or knowledge is greatly appreciated.
#3
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Loveland, OH, US
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
OOOOHHHHHH NNNNNOOOOOOO!!!!!! the next scheduled big asteroid impact on the Earth just got moved up a couple of weeks!!! Do you realize the death and destruction this could cause? Shoot it! Drive it off a cliff!! Burn it to ashes in a government-approved hazardous waste incinerator!!! Above all, don't go posting this on the Internet any more, the black helicopters will follow you around the rest of your life if they find out!!!
Don't worry about it. It'll be fine. It might not be the best choice, but it's better than dirty oil.
Don't worry about it. It'll be fine. It might not be the best choice, but it's better than dirty oil.
#6
Originally posted by RB83L69
... don't go posting this on the Internet any more, the black helicopters will follow you around the rest of your life if they find out!!!
... don't go posting this on the Internet any more, the black helicopters will follow you around the rest of your life if they find out!!!
We need only to overpower the weak-minded C-O-P-3s, and we will once again control the entire Empire...
Last edited by Vader; 08-21-2012 at 10:19 PM. Reason: Updated image links
#7
Re: Mechanic put 10W-40 in my engine!
Originally posted by PimpRod92RS
...My engine has 72,000 on it and I want it to last me a long time ...
...My engine has 72,000 on it and I want it to last me a long time ...
Trending Topics
#8
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Indianapolis IN
Posts: 1,522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We did some studies on oil and even had a long talk with some Mobile reps. Even they say oil is pretty much so oil once it gets hot. After our test I'm inclined to agree. The only big diff is how it acts when it's super cold out. You definately want a light oil in the winter or you'll just be cranking and pumping jellly.
I've run 5W30 10W40 and straight SAE50 in my Turbo Coupe and my SBC and neither of them ever so much as hiccuped.
I've run 5W30 10W40 and straight SAE50 in my Turbo Coupe and my SBC and neither of them ever so much as hiccuped.
#9
Originally posted by camaropowerZ28
What about if they put 15w 40 in?
What about if they put 15w 40 in?
This is where it would get interesting.
The highly compressed fused core material of the sun would be drawn in and accelerate the gravitationl forces. The complete Milky Way galaxy, Andromeda, Pleiades, all Ford Galaxies, and all stellar matter would be compressed into a space roughly the size of a golf ball, until forces were so great it would fuse and release the energy of a million-trillion stars in an instant, starting the cycle all over again. You'd have to invent the ThirdGen all over again.
I saw it happen once when a guy put straight 40 in a Chrysler 340. Or not...
#14
Supreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Originally posted by RMK
Vader,
Is that a photo of you you posted? I think I saw you in Sears on Wednesday afternoon.
Vader,
Is that a photo of you you posted? I think I saw you in Sears on Wednesday afternoon.
Vader's much better looking, but more well "rounded".
If you really want to mess with the mechanic, ask him what eye doctor he goes to. If he looks at you funny just say "I just want to make sure I never go to that doctor. " :sillylol:
It's not bad at all. AAMOF, the slightly thicker oil will be more slicker in the heat of the summer.
#15
Originally posted by RMK
Vader,
Is that a photo of you you posted? I think I saw you in Sears on Wednesday afternoon.
Vader,
Is that a photo of you you posted? I think I saw you in Sears on Wednesday afternoon.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
AJ got it backward. My brother is a bit more "well-rounded", and I'm a bit more svelt. (6'4" and 190# doesn't leave a lot of excess). We old-fart amateur hockey players have to stay a little more lean to even have a chance to keep up with the 22-year-old "punk" kids, less than half our ages.
#16
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Littleton, CO USA
Posts: 43,169
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
34 Posts
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Using 10W40 may void your warranty.
Other than being a rather amusing thread, there are unfortunately plenty of mis-statements amoung the serious responses (I really like the one from the "Mobil reps"). Since I've probably covered each of them at least once in past responses in the past couple of years, I won't bother doing so now.
"Reality is for those who can't handle drugs." I can't handle drugs - really...
Other than being a rather amusing thread, there are unfortunately plenty of mis-statements amoung the serious responses (I really like the one from the "Mobil reps"). Since I've probably covered each of them at least once in past responses in the past couple of years, I won't bother doing so now.
"Reality is for those who can't handle drugs." I can't handle drugs - really...
#19
Supreme Member
iTrader: (-1)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 1,728
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
"punk" 21 yr old hockey player
i remember about 15 years ago my dad had this jeep that burned more oil then he could put in...so one winter he put in 50 or 80 weight,, im pretty sure it was 80..he put it in because winters in michigan are no joke...i wouldnt freeze my @ss of putting in oil every moring either lol
he cranked it over and the oil was so sledgy that the timing chain broke...
when i had to drive my car 46 miles to get it back to my house with a broken rod bolt i put in 20 w...worked like a charm
i remember about 15 years ago my dad had this jeep that burned more oil then he could put in...so one winter he put in 50 or 80 weight,, im pretty sure it was 80..he put it in because winters in michigan are no joke...i wouldnt freeze my @ss of putting in oil every moring either lol
he cranked it over and the oil was so sledgy that the timing chain broke...
when i had to drive my car 46 miles to get it back to my house with a broken rod bolt i put in 20 w...worked like a charm
#20
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Salem, NH
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 6 Speed
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.11 Truetrac
im running 20-50 right now, i wouldnt recommend it, i also have 74K and the oil is way to thick in the morning and when ever the car is cold, it takes for ever for it to get warm enough where the oil pressure is 35psi at idle. once its warm its ok, but its real thick when cold, makes my motor rap every now and then when its real cold. time to put in 5-30
#24
Senior Member
Originally posted by ATOMonkey
We did some studies on oil and even had a long talk with some Mobile reps. Even they say oil is pretty much so oil once it gets hot. After our test I'm inclined to agree. The only big diff is how it acts when it's super cold out. You definately want a light oil in the winter or you'll just be cranking and pumping jellly.
I've run 5W30 10W40 and straight SAE50 in my Turbo Coupe and my SBC and neither of them ever so much as hiccuped.
We did some studies on oil and even had a long talk with some Mobile reps. Even they say oil is pretty much so oil once it gets hot. After our test I'm inclined to agree. The only big diff is how it acts when it's super cold out. You definately want a light oil in the winter or you'll just be cranking and pumping jellly.
I've run 5W30 10W40 and straight SAE50 in my Turbo Coupe and my SBC and neither of them ever so much as hiccuped.
You can't even spell the name of the company correctly and you want us to believe you talked to Mobil One reps ? LOL...
#25
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
when your cars leak and/or burn as much oil as some of mine, 10w40 will become your friend.
I run 10w40 in my GTA and I ran it in my Sport Coupe forever. I put 40k HARD miles on my sport coupe since I owned it, and it now sits at 165k miles and still runs like brand new. Oh, and I probably only did 5 oil changes on it in those 40k miles.
I run 10w40 in my GTA and I ran it in my Sport Coupe forever. I put 40k HARD miles on my sport coupe since I owned it, and it now sits at 165k miles and still runs like brand new. Oh, and I probably only did 5 oil changes on it in those 40k miles.
#26
Originally posted by five7kid
Using 10W40 may void your warranty....
Using 10W40 may void your warranty....
I'll agree that this has been covered probably 100 times or more in some detail. Maybe it's time for a Tech Article on lubrication. Then again, there are already numerous web pages on that very topic, and still no one seems to believe them. Unless there is an ISO spec on the oil container, I don't use it. As soon as SAE gets with the program, I might start believing them again.
#29
lol hey vader i just read your reply and the big bang/crunch analogy and where else in the world can you discuss physics/cosmology and top it off with a purple haried bouncey chick. What a world we live in aint it great
#31
Supreme Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: heartland
Posts: 2,743
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
Originally posted by Mark W. Winning
LOL, when I read the post title I thought it said WD40!
LOL, when I read the post title I thought it said WD40!
#32
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Conroe, TX
Posts: 3,158
Received 54 Likes
on
40 Posts
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
I run Castrol GTX 20W-50 in my GTA. The car's old enough and burns enough oil that I needed the heavier oil to keep from having to put more in every time I stop to get gasoline.
oh....and nice sig pic there Vader
oh....and nice sig pic there Vader
#34
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Caldwell,ID
Posts: 5,389
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
um five7 doesn't look like your doing your job here in the past
and mr vader as a mod seems to be helping out the going against the rules
but man this was a good post from the good old days
my question though after reading this thread is about the 10w-40
as a dino juice I hear it's bad. too many polymers in them that lead to deposits
what about using 10w-40 synthetic?
another question I have regarding weight.
if lets say the car was said to run 10w-30 back in early 80's ok. since then oil has changed quite a bit and should be better at protecting might you be able to run a thinner oil in this case?
or what about if you switch from a dino to a synthetic would yo ube able to run a lighter oil at that point?
and mr vader as a mod seems to be helping out the going against the rules
but man this was a good post from the good old days
my question though after reading this thread is about the 10w-40
as a dino juice I hear it's bad. too many polymers in them that lead to deposits
what about using 10w-40 synthetic?
another question I have regarding weight.
if lets say the car was said to run 10w-30 back in early 80's ok. since then oil has changed quite a bit and should be better at protecting might you be able to run a thinner oil in this case?
or what about if you switch from a dino to a synthetic would yo ube able to run a lighter oil at that point?
#35
Supreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Wahiawa, Hawai'i
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: LC2
Transmission: Worn-out 200R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.27's
I had the misfortune of being struck with an odd Stupidity Particle the other month, and bought a case of 20W-50, and used it on my wife's car, Lifters make some noise upon startup, but once it's warmed up, it's all good.
I had also committed the Cardinal Sin - I had topped off my GTA's oil with the same stuff, and it had been filled with 5W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic. Shoot, car still drives, just a puff of blue when started (always been like that) and I'll fix the problem when I change it again, anyway.
And if we have to redesign Third Gens again, can we include boosted V6 motors for EVERY year, as a high-end option or something...? Oh, and put a real boost gauge in there, too. I'm sure a lot of people would like a TTA without paying through the nose for it...
I had also committed the Cardinal Sin - I had topped off my GTA's oil with the same stuff, and it had been filled with 5W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic. Shoot, car still drives, just a puff of blue when started (always been like that) and I'll fix the problem when I change it again, anyway.
And if we have to redesign Third Gens again, can we include boosted V6 motors for EVERY year, as a high-end option or something...? Oh, and put a real boost gauge in there, too. I'm sure a lot of people would like a TTA without paying through the nose for it...
#37
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 RS
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 700R4
You've overlooked the biggest danger of 10-40, it's a "turbo" oil. When placed in a non-turbo engine it will continue to seek out the oil supply line to the turbo, eventually leading to oil leaks from every gasket . Kind of like when a male takes a Midol for pain, it doesn't know where to go!
#38
Supreme Member
Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 2,963
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by Vader
For real? My car is old enough to drive itself. Warranty hasn't been an issue for a long time now.
For real? My car is old enough to drive itself. Warranty hasn't been an issue for a long time now.
#39
Supreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Originally posted by kevinc
Mine's old enough to buy alcoholic beverages...
Mine's old enough to buy alcoholic beverages...
Instead of joining AA, do they join ABA (Alcoholic Beverages Anonymous)?
#40
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Jersey
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 88 iroc x 2- 1 T-Top, 1 Vert
Engine: 350 tpi, 305 tpi
Transmission: 700R4-2800 stall, 700R4 stock
Mine's finally old enough to stay home alone unsupervised,
Hey Kevin, could you shoot me an emai? mikeygraycar@aol.com
I have few questions about those AFR heads. My 383 is going together this week-Mikel
Hey Kevin, could you shoot me an emai? mikeygraycar@aol.com
I have few questions about those AFR heads. My 383 is going together this week-Mikel
#41
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Caldwell,ID
Posts: 5,389
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
Originally posted by rx7speed
um five7 doesn't look like your doing your job here in the past
and mr vader as a mod seems to be helping out the going against the rules
but man this was a good post from the good old days
my question though after reading this thread is about the 10w-40
as a dino juice I hear it's bad. too many polymers in them that lead to deposits
what about using 10w-40 synthetic?
another question I have regarding weight.
if lets say the car was said to run 10w-30 back in early 80's ok. since then oil has changed quite a bit and should be better at protecting might you be able to run a thinner oil in this case?
or what about if you switch from a dino to a synthetic would yo ube able to run a lighter oil at that point?
um five7 doesn't look like your doing your job here in the past
and mr vader as a mod seems to be helping out the going against the rules
but man this was a good post from the good old days
my question though after reading this thread is about the 10w-40
as a dino juice I hear it's bad. too many polymers in them that lead to deposits
what about using 10w-40 synthetic?
another question I have regarding weight.
if lets say the car was said to run 10w-30 back in early 80's ok. since then oil has changed quite a bit and should be better at protecting might you be able to run a thinner oil in this case?
or what about if you switch from a dino to a synthetic would yo ube able to run a lighter oil at that point?
any ideas?
#42
On Probation
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: New York
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: 350?
Transmission: 700-R4
Originally posted by Dirty Rob
And for ***'s sake, put SFC's on it this time.
And for ***'s sake, put SFC's on it this time.
#43
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Littleton, CO USA
Posts: 43,169
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
34 Posts
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by rx7speed
my question though after reading this thread is about the 10w-40
as a dino juice I hear it's bad. too many polymers in them that lead to deposits
what about using 10w-40 synthetic?
my question though after reading this thread is about the 10w-40
as a dino juice I hear it's bad. too many polymers in them that lead to deposits
what about using 10w-40 synthetic?
another question I have regarding weight.
if lets say the car was said to run 10w-30 back in early 80's ok. since then oil has changed quite a bit and should be better at protecting might you be able to run a thinner oil in this case?
or what about if you switch from a dino to a synthetic would yo ube able to run a lighter oil at that point?
if lets say the car was said to run 10w-30 back in early 80's ok. since then oil has changed quite a bit and should be better at protecting might you be able to run a thinner oil in this case?
or what about if you switch from a dino to a synthetic would yo ube able to run a lighter oil at that point?
Personally, I think the high temp number is the more important (the "30" of 10W-30, for instance), than the low number. The low number is indicative of cold temp cranking and cold operation performance, and doesn't really pertain to warmed-up, steady state operation - unless the oil is loaded with VI improver polymers to give it a wide band between the two numbers (again, more of an issue with petroleum-based oils and the lower cost synthetics than PAO's).
#44
What he said. If you don't believe it, get yourself a viscosity cup. It doesn't matter what kind, even a cheapie for paint spraying is fine. Freeze a quart of your favorite oil, and a quart of Mobil 1. Boil another quart of each (in the bottles - be careful). Start pouring and timing.
If you're lucky enough to have access to a cryo freezer (many workplaces with metallurgical test labs have them, in case you didn't know), freeze a quart of each at about -60°F. Try pouring each one. Don't worry about spilling any oil - It won't. The Mobil 1 may get messy if you're not careful, though.
5-7 outlines the basic reasons. That's why I frequently mention that synthetics "cheat" the SAE system, since they operate at temperatures at which SAE does not test, but your engine may frequently reach.
If you care even a little about keeping your engine for a long time, don't even mess with oil, or the wanna-be synthetics. Use AMSOIL or Mobil 1 to be certain you are getting pure PAO base stock, or read labels carefully to be certain what you're getting. For Heaven's sake, stay away from the Group III "synthetics" that are merely hydrocracked mineral oils. The FTC really needs to overrule the National Advertising Council and get this straight. Being able to call a mineral oil "synthetic" is just plain wrong. As long as we know the difference, we shouldn't fall victim to that advertising.
Because of that, we really need to stay away from Castrol Syntec, Pennzoil "synthetics" and most anything other than Amsoil, Mobil, some Red Line, and possibly Royal Purple. Read the labels carefully for your own sake. Otherwise, you may be getting screwed by "legal" advertising campaigns.
Viscosity of PAO is a totally different game from mineral oil. Start looking for ISO viscosity or SSU viscosity test results before you choose. SAE is just adding to the confusion and potential screwing we may get when selecting lubricants. That's why industry (even the automobile industry itself) ignores SAE for lubrication in their equipment. Try finding an SAE rating for hydraulic oil, turbine oil, etcetera.
If you're lucky enough to have access to a cryo freezer (many workplaces with metallurgical test labs have them, in case you didn't know), freeze a quart of each at about -60°F. Try pouring each one. Don't worry about spilling any oil - It won't. The Mobil 1 may get messy if you're not careful, though.
5-7 outlines the basic reasons. That's why I frequently mention that synthetics "cheat" the SAE system, since they operate at temperatures at which SAE does not test, but your engine may frequently reach.
If you care even a little about keeping your engine for a long time, don't even mess with oil, or the wanna-be synthetics. Use AMSOIL or Mobil 1 to be certain you are getting pure PAO base stock, or read labels carefully to be certain what you're getting. For Heaven's sake, stay away from the Group III "synthetics" that are merely hydrocracked mineral oils. The FTC really needs to overrule the National Advertising Council and get this straight. Being able to call a mineral oil "synthetic" is just plain wrong. As long as we know the difference, we shouldn't fall victim to that advertising.
Because of that, we really need to stay away from Castrol Syntec, Pennzoil "synthetics" and most anything other than Amsoil, Mobil, some Red Line, and possibly Royal Purple. Read the labels carefully for your own sake. Otherwise, you may be getting screwed by "legal" advertising campaigns.
Viscosity of PAO is a totally different game from mineral oil. Start looking for ISO viscosity or SSU viscosity test results before you choose. SAE is just adding to the confusion and potential screwing we may get when selecting lubricants. That's why industry (even the automobile industry itself) ignores SAE for lubrication in their equipment. Try finding an SAE rating for hydraulic oil, turbine oil, etcetera.
Last edited by Vader; 08-28-2005 at 01:07 PM.
#47
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Bradley,IL
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 83 T-top T/A, 92 RS
Engine: 1970 LT1,305 TBI
Transmission: Th-400, 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42,2.73
Originally posted by RB83L69
OOOOHHHHHH NNNNNOOOOOOO!!!!!! the next scheduled big asteroid impact on the Earth just got moved up a couple of weeks!!! Do you realize the death and destruction this could cause? Shoot it! Drive it off a cliff!! Burn it to ashes in a government-approved hazardous waste incinerator!!! Above all, don't go posting this on the Internet any more, the black helicopters will follow you around the rest of your life if they find out!!!
OOOOHHHHHH NNNNNOOOOOOO!!!!!! the next scheduled big asteroid impact on the Earth just got moved up a couple of weeks!!! Do you realize the death and destruction this could cause? Shoot it! Drive it off a cliff!! Burn it to ashes in a government-approved hazardous waste incinerator!!! Above all, don't go posting this on the Internet any more, the black helicopters will follow you around the rest of your life if they find out!!!
LMFAO
#48
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
I run 15w40 in the summer and throw in 0-30 during the winter months. I dont drive it for the winter but i throw in the light oil because i fire it up every now and then.
#49
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Littleton, CO USA
Posts: 43,169
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
34 Posts
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by rx7speed
so now that we covered that wanna cover synthetic ATF vs normal ATF?
so now that we covered that wanna cover synthetic ATF vs normal ATF?
Dana at Probuilt (freqentor on the Tranny forum) used to have unkind things to say about Mobil 1 ATF. Not sure if that still holds.
#50
Any recollection of what they were talking about? I can understand that some level of friction between surfaces is necessary in an auto trans, but short of the synthetic running them out of business, I'm not sure what the problem(s) might be.