Best positive valve stem seals ???
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR, AFR 190
Transmission: T56
Best positive valve stem seals ???
I'm wondering what kind of positive seals you guys are using.
On the intake and exhaust.
I know Fel-Pro SS72527 looks good for the intake valves but I can't find anything similar for the exhaust.
Any suggestion.
PAT
On the intake and exhaust.
I know Fel-Pro SS72527 looks good for the intake valves but I can't find anything similar for the exhaust.
Any suggestion.
PAT
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Car: '92 RS, '84 Z28
Engine: 383, L69
Transmission: T56, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.42
I dont know what part number i used, but i used two sets of intake seals, put intake seals on intake and exhaust.
Kevin
Kevin
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR, AFR 190
Transmission: T56
How would the Fel-Pro Viton seals hold up on the exhaust ?? I wonder.....
It's hard to get good info on valves seals, it's not something that gives more HP so people don't really think about them that much.
PAT
It's hard to get good info on valves seals, it's not something that gives more HP so people don't really think about them that much.
PAT
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Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 350 but it's torn down right now.
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: I'm working on it,lol.
Fel-Pro's level of quality for valve stem seals is always at least that of original equipment. Service life, not cost, dictates the materials required. Although seals made of premium materials, such as VITON® or polyacrylate, are much more expensive than seals made of nitrile, they represent but a small fraction of the total repair cost. Therefore, it just doesn't make good economic sense to sacrifice a long-lasting, successful repair to save on the cost of the valve stem seals. With Federal-Mogul's Fel-Pro valve stem seals, you'll do the job once, and do it right the first time.
That should help in your decision I think.
That should help in your decision I think.
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR, AFR 190
Transmission: T56
The Fel-Pro SS72527 are for the intake valves. Is it because of the material they are made of (heat resistance) or because of the amount of oil it will control ????
PAT
PAT
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR, AFR 190
Transmission: T56
both
Maybe I should stick with teflon seals on the exhaust but I never had a great success with them in the past.
PAT
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Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 305 (LG4)
Transmission: THM700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.23 non-LS
Here are some Viton Positive Seals from Comp Cam, Edelbrock, and Trick Flow for both intake and exhaust.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=22&y=11
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=22&y=11
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Car: 89 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 - Demon 525
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by phess11
Here are some Viton Positive Seals from Comp Cam, Edelbrock, and Trick Flow for both intake and exhaust.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=22&y=11
Here are some Viton Positive Seals from Comp Cam, Edelbrock, and Trick Flow for both intake and exhaust.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=22&y=11
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Car: 89 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 - Demon 525
Transmission: 700R4
The worst part is that.. we all knew jegs.com existed but only one recently had the motivation to pull the link lol. I'm currently replacing my valve seals, the intake and exhaust valve seals that were on my car look like this.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=22&y=11
The new ones have been a pain to slide on. I'm tapping them on with a small deep socket as light as I can but I already cracked one trying this method, fun.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=22&y=11
The new ones have been a pain to slide on. I'm tapping them on with a small deep socket as light as I can but I already cracked one trying this method, fun.
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Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Most of the seals listed there would require machining of the valve guide boss. You can't force a seal designed for .530" over a boss that is closer to .562"
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Car: 89 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 - Demon 525
Transmission: 700R4
yea, the ones that I got from the parts store must be to small. This pic shows where they get stuck. I need to just get a precision measuring tool rather then wasting money the wrong parts...
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Car: 89 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 - Demon 525
Transmission: 700R4
Ok I think I just found the answer to my problem. Near the botton of this article it explains how its safe to use the viton seals in place of factory nylon seals. They say that the vitons can hold up to heats of 450 degrees as the cylinder head often raises about 300 degrees. My valve stems must be oversized by a small bit because the fel-pro SS 72526 seals do not fit.
Here is a helpful link on valve seals.
http://www.federal-mogul.com/cda/con...6_7501,00.html
Here is a helpful link on valve seals.
http://www.federal-mogul.com/cda/con...6_7501,00.html
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Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 305 (LG4)
Transmission: THM700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.23 non-LS
Originally posted by redbird_400
My valve stems must be oversized by a small bit because the fel-pro SS 72526 seals do not fit.
My valve stems must be oversized by a small bit because the fel-pro SS 72526 seals do not fit.
According to PartAmerica.com 72526 and 72527 should fit. I used 72527 on both intake and exhaust.
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Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Make sure you apply some oil to the insides of the valve seals and the valve stems themselves. That will help them slide down.
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Car: 89 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 - Demon 525
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by phess11
What engine do you have?
According to PartAmerica.com 72526 and 72527 should fit. I used 72527 on both intake and exhaust.
What engine do you have?
According to PartAmerica.com 72526 and 72527 should fit. I used 72527 on both intake and exhaust.
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