impaled

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

which heads should i go with on an all out drag engine? they both come in top end packages, would i be better off going with one of those?

z28freak84

Dart PRO 1 Platinum.

5678TA

depending on how big a motor.. compression? cam? gearing? tire? times you shooting for?

also what kinda junk you got in the motor?

if you are going strictly drag, Dart Pro 1 platinum 215cc..

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Another vote for Dart Pro One Platinum.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Pro 1 isnt a choice here but you could consider it since its in the same price range

Iron eagles:

Pro's. Cheaper
230cc runner flows more than track 1's 221's, so capable of more power
64cc chamber for alittle more compression than the Track1's 67
5 angle valve job.... may help flow, may not..but its alittle more advanced than a basic 3 angle like track 1

CONS They are IRON and HEAVY.
Smaller valve springs compared to the track 1, limited to .690 lift compare to .700 for the Track 1. BUT that doesnt mean much, since it will come down to the spring specs for each head...that i dont know at the moment and would have to visit the company site for more info. Just because its a smaller diameter doesnt mean its a inferior spring. You need to look at the specs to see if it will work with the cam you have in mind

Iron eagles have a smaller 3/8 inch rocker stud which can flex more with big solid cams compared to the bigger beefier Track 1 7/16 rocker studs

possible con but then again maybe not...Standard exhaust port shape on the Iron eagles compared to teh D port on the Track 1. D ports typically flow better but some cases they dont. ALso there are MORE headers for standard port sizes than the D port. so thats a PRO for the Iron Eagle


SO each head has their advantages and disadvantages

impaled

i am not sure what exactly i am going to do in the long run, but for now i was going to throw those heads on my existing 350 with a cam with a lower operating range (~2500-6000) because i dont know the extent of the rebuild that the previous owner did on my 350. i fully realize that those heads are way too big to maximize power out of my 350, but my plan is to build a 383 or 400 fully forged and balanced and swap those heads over with a drag racing cam for track use with a high lift and duration (for example http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku )

would i need pistons with valve relief cutouts for those heads with a smaller cam on my 350?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

with a smaller cam on a 350, i dont think you will have much piston to valve clearance problems at all.

BUT the valve springs on those heads will more than likely be TOO much for a mild cam. If its a roller cam, it MAY work, but a flat tappet would be eaten alive with that much spring pressure.

impaled

can you suggest a cam? i dont necessarily mean small, i was thinking something along the lines of: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku

HERE IS MY STUPID QUESTION OF THE DAY: (i apologize for my ignorance)

how would i know if i need a hydrolic roller, mechanical flat tappet, ets.

A Atwood

I would like to know more about your engine combo.

I can tell you that either of those heads are very good. However, you are leaving 50 hp minimun out of both if you leave them in the as cast form. Both need ported. I recently had a set of pro 1 230's here and they were advertised as 308 cfm. Out of the box they flowed 265. I was able to get the flow up to what is should be, but it took a lot of work.

Another thing, a lot of time the 215's will out perform the 230's if equipped with the same 2.08 intake valve and properly ported. They end up around 225-230cc and work really well. The 230's end up over 240cc and many times will produce the same hp but will be down on tq anywhere below hp peak.
ARN

5678TA

i would suggest going roller on the cam.. flat tappets are having a harder and harder time staying alive.. oil companies are cutting zinc out of their oil and flat tappets NEED the slippery zinc to stay alive.. im on my 3rd solid flat tappet cam.. would have saved me a few rebuilds if i went roller in the first place..

i run .592" lift on my intake with 260* duration @ .050" with NO clearance problems.. you should be able to safely run up to .625 on a roller with big duration.. just make sure to check..

would you ever consider AFR?? the eliminator lineup are monsters.. i believe CHP made 615hp with the 195 street eliminators on pumpgas.. i'm saving up for a set myself.. the 210 eliminators would be a good set to have.. a tad more pricey but might be worth looking at..

impaled

how can i tell if i already have a roller cam or not? if not, what does it take to convert it to roller?

5678TA

ok well to tell if you have a roller, you first need to find out if your motor is 1 piece or 2 piece rear main seal.. if its a 2 piece, you most likely dont have a roller.. the most definite way to tell is to get into your motor and pull out a lifter.. a roller will have a roller obviously..

to make a 2 piece a roller, you need retrofit roller lifters and make sure your valve train is up to the task.. heavy springs, etc.. since its all out drag, you want a solid roller.. remember, lighter is better for high rpm.. but lighter means more money..

not so sure on 1 piece blocks.. since i dont have one.. but alot of them come with hydraulic roller cams..

impaled

so if i went for the dart iron eagle platinum heads and a .500-.600 lift cam i wouldnt have PTV clearance issues with my now existing 350?

i probably wont take it apart until i have the money to purchase the heads, then i will rip it apart and see if it is a roller or not and figure it out from there.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

yeah you can retrofit a roller cam into it buy using a retrofit roller lifter and retrofit cam. Costs alot more but better in the long run

you should be fine with most milder rollers with that 350 with those heads as far as clearances go.

To eliminate future error and spending more money... i suggest you plan your build thoroughly now and fully understand what you currently have, then make your decisions and purchases.

Also recommend AFR heads. Alittle more costly at 1550 a pair but they come with great lightweight valve train components and will help you keep that valvetrain stable at higher rpms. 210 cc runners would suit you well. And AFR has been known to flow as advertised