Kingtal0n

"This is a list of Hard Parts modifications you can do to your 700R4 while rebuilding it to make it stronger and last longer. "

I just did my first transmission rebuild, Im a novice, but I was given Expert advice from Dana at Probuilt. These are things I wrote down while talking to him on the phone, and some things that I learned myself while doing the rebuild.

First off, I used a book for most of the rebuild. the book I used was Haynes GM Transmission rebuild guide. A better book would have been the ATSG book, (Automatic transmission service guide) but I couldnt find it in time. so get a book.This info is related to "Trans-go Shift Kit" instructions.. some of these

modifications wont work without the trans-go product.Misc. info:
Axle Grease instead of Tranny jelly or petrolium jelly works fine.
A pick / Scribe set comes in VERY handy during the rebuild

Scribes. Use 2 scribes to remove the snap ring in the back.
axle grease instead of tranny gelly to hold check ***** and thrust washers.
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Danas Instructions

Check ball on the input drum (first shaft) take check ball capsule out but leave Oring in there. Use a screwdriver or something to walk it out. the capsule is located at the very end of the input shaft. This modification drastically speeds up converter clutch lockup.

3-4 clutch pack around .045"-.055" (with 8 clutches)

Rear of the case itself where the valve body goes on, Theres a check ball capsule there When you install the transgo kit your putting restrictors next to this. One of the (4 holes) has a ball take it out. leave the capsule. (above the low/reverse passages) (last page of trans go instructions)

sprag goes into input drum (where overrun clutches run) Race is where the sprag rides on...

reverse input drum .030-.070" clearance

Reverse input drum is the first drum that comes out (band rides on) Area on band is FLAT PERFECT (straight edge)

600grit polish the band area

Second drum is aluminum (INPUT DRUM) with shaft. Thinner Steals Towards top, Pressure plate on top too. .060 steels on top.
shift kit instructions tell you how to modify that.

end clearance (input drum) bearing and spacer below that. sits on input shaft.

theres a number on that washer, 67 68 69 70 71.If mine is bigger than 69 than use the 69. If its smaller use the smaller one.

adjusting the band clearance you dont wana put any seals on while doing clearance check. after you do all that stuff.

corvette servo has D-ring seals make sure bore is clean and smooth. use 600 grit to polish it smooth. oil it all for sure.

Bushing on the input sun gear only .125" below surface; original bushing will be much deeper, GM puts them too deep

5 tangs on the aluminum piston in the input rum and they need to be flat sanded so all 5 tangs apply evenly. use a sharp small file.

on the input drum where the input shaft goes in there should be no high spots where ther sealing ring is use 400 grit to smooth it out.or small file DONT BE AGGRESSIVE

Near the end of the input shaft there is a 1.5" long shiny spot. this is where the converter rides, polish it up with 600-800 grit (i used 1500 grit)

flat area of bushings always go down!!

on the input drum itself where the snap ring goes (while its al aprt) small file where snap ring goes file off high spots before anything goes in.

Dowel holes perfect shape NOT WARPED if the dowel holes in the case are warped then the transmission will sit back and destroy the converter and pump.

sand bottom of case with file, remove high spots from the tangs and the very bottom of the case below the low-reverse piston needs to be smooth.

Case SMOOTH inside. remove all the case flash especially up near the pump area and around the tangs.

the valve body and the seperator plate need to be very flat. start with 180 grit if its really rought or warped but finish up with 400 grit. you want the plate have no "feelable" high spots.

the trans-go kit has you block off 3 area in the seperator plate. when you do this you need to hammer the aluminum plugs into the plate, they will mushroom out. YOU NEED TO FILE them completelly flat, almost to the point where you can feel them anymore. use a file first, then use sandpaper.

1-2 acumulator spot usually warped in the seperator plate. file / sand it smooth.

valve body pieces look closelly for casting flash inside the passages and remove them.

When you put the gaskets onto the case for the seperator plate, look at all the holes. in some places the gasket will cover part of a hole, use a razor blade and remove the offending portion of the gasket. never remove metal from the valve body thats not listed in the instructions.

Put hand in the input drum at bottom where first piston goes use finger where seals go make sure not smooth 400 grit back and forth NOT up and down

All of the aluminum pistons that come out of the transmission will be slightly scuffed here and there during removal. use a small file or sand paper and make them smooth once again. all it takes is 1 burr to destroy a seal.

low reverse piston 120 grit where the low reverse piston comes on the steel; not need to be super smooth but needs to be flat.

low reverse clutch area, 400 grit sand if high spots use file on front pump take everything out of everything, stator half take out old stator flat sand it then put new stator in. finish with 400 grit. turn 90 degrees every pass on the stator half. front half contains the rotor. 120 to 400 gritwhen you goto put new stator in, all flat sanded. take all valve and spring out of pump. you will see a check ball filter tcc valve main pressure valve TCC spring...

TAKE IT ALL OUT. Blow it al out and clean it up. Flat sanded set.
Dowel pin that lines the stator to the pump. usually falls out. Stake the pin into the pump body... do this by nicking the edges of the hole tap in then file it after remove high spots tap in the dowel pin till it stops grab it make sure it wont pull back out. PUT IT IN THE OVEN AT 500* for 23 Minutes... Take stator an hour earlier put it in freezer. take out the pump from the oven while hot... you have 5-10 seconds line it up to the dowel pin on the stator and push it in place.. turn it upside down on 2 oven mitts and wack it with both hands. when its cool put 3 bolts back in and where the dowel is you will see theres nothing to hold it in. hit the stator with something sharp to push some metal over the dowel.

the other half of pump you wana flat sand it too where .001-.002 clearance for rotor to slide around make sure keep turning pump to make sure not unsmoothafter both halfs of pump together go around pump with sealing ring remove high spots so it goes into case easier.

teflon bushing in front pump put the groove to the up side of the pump. dont stake in place (NEVER stake teflon bushing in place)

stake in place is when people grind an area where bushing goes DONT DO THAT

when i get done checking clearances in clutches but before i assemble it soak

everything in ATF for at LEAST 15 minutes. then let them dry for at least 20 minutes (dry) never assemble dry, and never assemble while really wet. the fluid takes up space in the assembly and tricks you into thinking there is less clearance than there really is.

GM vacuum switch. PN 14015419 $31.84 last miont
12102606 $12 for connector
Run a resistor wire from 12V to 10.5V use a resistor wire thing. from batt to switch only. switch on firewall. vacuum to this thing . this gives you lockup in a non-Computer controlled vehicle.

A terminal on plug of transmission. Outside towards front.

where band rides on reverse input drum, polish it perfectly smooth.

There is a sprag in the Input drum, and a sprag in the low-reverse area of the transmission in the case. For the sprag in the INPUT drum:
polish inner race of sprag MIRROR FINISH of the RACE make sure its perect.
Outer race of of sprag ROUGH AS CAN BE 40 - 80 GRIT. this keeps the sprag going

ONLY CLOCKWISE, and when you re-assemble the sprag make SURE the top half (smaller half) ONLY turns clockwise. look in your book...

O ring in the input drum above first piston
before first piston dont miss it, you will have to look inside the input drum from the side to see it. its green.
2 1/2 inches in diameter looks like material in front pump ring (oil it all)
5 tang retain put the springs in it, take other piston for it, put that together

set it inside (4 pieces together put them together) use something to clear the o-rings use something (O ring installer) a lip seal installer .025 Or use a feeler guage to do it.. walk it in on the inner seal so ASSEMBLE THIS THING first then put it in.

Inside the trans-go kit comes a steel ring, big wide and flat. you use it once, you put it ontop of the retainer that holds the springs inside the input drum. you can then compress those springs without fear of bending the retainer. after you install the snap ring you can throw away the steel ring, DONT leave it in there.

dont air test pistons until all the clutches with snap rings are installed last snap ring goes in then air test, or it will all fly apart.

the one that goees into the input drum rough the outer race.
sprag assembly on top of the bearing. thats the sprag
make sure that when you do the sprag assembly you put the sprag assembly the right way.

To get out the OLD stator in the pump you can tap it out while supporting the pump on a bench, OR you can wack the stator down onto something hard (like the top of a vice) and pop it out, since you wont be using it, it doesnt matter how banged up it gets. dont hurt the pump though.


orange red spring goes under that pin in the non-stator half of the pump, holds the rotor in place on one side.
install new seal and bushing when you put the slide in theres an Oring and a steel ring, also a black rubber seal and a teflon seal the rubber pushes on teflon, do this before anthing.
grab the slide with hand and push the pin in, when the rotor and slide and stuff is in, put the spring or 2 springs from NO YOYO kit transgo plastic retainer and that stuff... transgo = spring and 2 retainers. slide dana supplied rotor and (where 10 vanes go) plastic retainer faces front of pump sits against where the bushing goes. when you put the slide and rotor in make sure no high spots .. flat sand if you can 600 grit really easy before putting in front pump. they get nicked.

take out the spring, filter, check ball, pressure regulator valve, TCC selenoid valve, etc... blow it all clean then oven it. make sure flat. dowel pin in front pump, stator comes out, dowel should fall out. stake the hole and tap the dowel in THEN put the thing in the oven use it to guide the stator in. stake dowel in place to make sure it stays put.
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i have a 5 tang steel that sits at the bottom thats waved... before pressure plate goes put that weird lookin spring thing thats shaped funny, layes flat, under that plate and snap ring....

low roller back there, inner race, must be perfectly smooth put oil all over the bearings back there. planet soak in oil, pull it out dry off so its all nice and lubed. every bushing put oil in there. minimum clutches 15 minutes.

for pump, line them up by eye, then put pump in case to line it up with nothing in case, bolts facing out (stator splines facing into case) this lines the pump housing up so you dont need the "special" pump alignment tool.

check *****: 4 in the case, 1 in the valve body. (trans-go)all the way towards the front. probably taking out one. the one next to the aluminum plug take out the checkball towards the rear of the case, over the low reverse circuit, its a capsule... take it out. check ball capsule IN The case towards back underneath valve body. 4 holes angles, 2 feed low reverse piston, 2 feed governer..

on the other side towards the accumulator, take out that check ball, but not the capsule. self contained check ball. use screwdriver bend the tang and take the ball out.

60 thousandths play in servo
put the servo in with no seals (D rings) to check play against the band.
IF there is any more than 60-70 thousandths (.060") you need to shim it using the gold shim supplied with the trans-go kit. read those instructions.

the D rings need to be perfectly around and up on the servo or they will tear or roll off. you will need to tap in the cover with the (blue) seal on it, hit it in

the middle and side to side to walk it in slowly. Dont forget the snap ring on the outside of the cover of the servo.


Output shaft should turn one way easier than the other. make sure it doesnt get harder to turn as you go, it should maintain its resistance.
---Continued:

Kingtal0n

the new boost valve (.500) will have 2 Orings on it. It will be VERY tight to put into place, use tranny fluid and tap it down into place. when its down all the way it will stop, and it should stop 1/8" below the snap ring groove. install snap ring and double check it. when you start this thing the fluid will force the boost valve back against the snap ring and you dont want it flying out of there. you should be able to turn the snap ring freely in its groove after its installed. double check the valve itself using a screwdriver and make sure it moves freely and snaps back into place when released. dont scuff the valve though.

The front pump is tricky to install. First make sure the case where the pump sits is perfectly flat, use 600-800 grit sand paper if you have to, also use a small sharp file to remove high spots. feel for them with fingers. next make sure you have the 4 Orings on the input shaft, and that they sit flat against the input shaft. then look at the pumps outside where it will slide into the case, and sand /file off high spots from it as well. double check the boost valve / tcc valve areas usually you have a high spot or 2 around the holes. now on the non-splined side of the pump you have to install 2 Sealing rings, the blue ones with the split ends, make sure they sit VERY flat up into their grooves. if they dont then take them off and slightly bend them to make them "hug" the pump so they dont stick out. make sure to use tranny fluid when installing them so they are lubed.

Now install the O-ring around the pump's body, using tranny fluid to lube it. the red/yellow line should face out all around it. dont forget to install the yellow/brown thrust washer onto the non-splined side of the pump, the 2 little dowels fit into the stator, it will want to fall out so retain it in place with petrolium jelly or axle
grease. Now install the pump to case gasket, its round and has holes around the outside, it goes between the pump and the case. retain it in place with petrolium jelly or axle grease. double check that the reverse input drum is fully seated, do
this by holding the reverse input drum down into the case, and pulling up on the input shaft. if the input shaft has good play, maybe 1/4" of play pulling upwards and the reverse input drum stays down while you hold it, then the reverse input drum is installed correctly. it should also be slightly below the pump-gasket surface. also double check the band is all the way down and the anchor pin is installed. you should be able to wiggle the band with your hand.

now you are ready to install the pump, ensure all the seals and bushings (such as inside the stator) are lubed, and line the pump up over the pump holes as you set it down over the input shaft. use 2 long screwdrivers or long bolts to put through the pump and into the case to line up the pump perfectly with the holes. as you set the pump down it will eventually stop, usually about 1/2"-1" up. to get it down further, you will need to reach through the case's valve body and push against the reverse input drum and wiggle it around so the pump can fall down further. beware of the gasket because its easy to rip while you reach through the valve body. also try wiggling the input shaft. then the pump usually falls to about 1/4-1/8" above the surface.

at this point friction is holding it up, and you will either need to tap it down or use 3 long bolts and pull it down slowly into the case criss crossing the pattern. after its all the way down remember to use a criss-cross pattern tightening it down. now you check 2 things, first grab the input shaft and turn it. it should be hard to turn, but it should turn by hand(s) using a rag. you wont be able to turn it very much, its very hard to do, but if you absolutelly CANT get it to turn then something is wrong. next thing is end play. as you turn the input shaft pull out on it, and wiggle it out as much as you can. you wont see it move by eye.. but measure the distance from the output shaft to the stator. now turn it and push in as hard as you can, while turning, and if you have to use a small rubber hammer to hit the input shaft into the stator. now measure that distance again, it should have changed about .004-.020 somewhere in the region is fine. what you DONT want is anything over .020... thats BAD. too much play. usually, however, if you can barelly measure the change, thats fine so long as the input shaft can turn by hand.

now you can check the band.
60 thousandths play in servo .060
put the servo in with no seals (D rings) to check play against the band.
IF there is any more than 60-70 thousandths (.060") you need to shim it using the gold shim supplied with the trans-go kit. read those instructions. if you did you probably already installed the gold shim and that should be fine so long as you did the rest of the instructions. the D rings need to be perfectly around and up on the servo or they will tear or roll off. try to put the entire servo assembly in place together as one piece, but you can do it separately. its not uncommon for a D-ring to slip off or roll off or tear so be CAREFULL if you are unsure then pull it back out and do it over.

when its in you will need to tap in the cover with the (blue) seal on it, hit it in the middle and side to side to walk it in slowly. Dont forget the snap ring on the outside of the cover of the servo.

stator side:
did you remember to replace the entire boost valve assembly? valve, spring, and both boost valves? are the check ***** still in the pump where they go? you re-use the TCC valve and spring, as well as the pressure check ball / spring. replaced the pump's filter? it just slides in the side.. did you remember to flat sand the pump surface while the stator was out? its not too late, just harder to do with it in. start with 180-220 grit if its rough, and work up to 400grit. you want that baby FLAT where it mates to the other half of the pump.



Notes;
Boost valve very tight
TCC valve went back the way it came out
little rubber piece behind little green piece in rotor
pump - re used the check ball + spring in pump
valves leftover...
valvebody, no modification on the left side only the 4 right side.
Took out old spring (first) then new valve drilled the 3 holes and new spring under

valve

accumulator.. took out 1 piston alltogether, second piston also took out the
shaft
Piston in aux; valve body? what do i do with that? changes?

pump very hard to seat in place
reverse input drum 1/8" below pump gasket surface
seals on the end of the pump... what kind? have rubber and weird ones
upside down acumulator piston?

TKOPerformance

Thanks for posting all that info. I printed it out so I will have it when I'm ready to do my truck's trans (also a 700R4 obviously).

PLANT PROTECTION

iTrader: (6)

Awesome info! Rebuilding a trans is definately a step above an engine, very cool for you to tackle it. If I get some free time and cash, I may attempt a rebuild.

SweetS10v8

Good info!! Printed it and slapped in with my ATSG book I printed at school,they have them all on the computer. Free is a good price!

littlebagz

Some excellent points there boys. Definatley take your time when doing a trans rebuild, and have a book on hand. The ATSG Book is awesome. Be careful though, there are two editions based on model year. (After 87 the 700r4 became the 4l60, minor differences, but different none the less....) also I stay from any petroleum based grease or lubricant. Some of teh seals are rubber , not neoprene and tehy begin to breakdown when in contact with petroleum products. There are trans assembly lubes easily available. The book can tell you what lubes are safe where. Believe it or not Ive used KY Jelley in a pinch (Water based)

Good luck

SweetS10v8

Sitting here tonight, I was watching TV and feeling strange. I think Dana needs to be asked if this is ok to put out to everyone.

This is knowledge and expertise that took years to obtain and most people have to pay for!!! This isnt a few pointers, its a small book!!! Someone buy a trans from this person, so I dont feel like im stealing.....

My new wife makes it so I cant purchase anything, something about a down payment on a house, or something , seems to take presidence over my car??? I just got a new postion/raise at work, and my new boss asked me if I wanted to know how much I was making. I said, "It doesnt matter to me, If i make $500/wk or $100/wk I only get $10, but it would be nice to tell my wife how much more will be coming in.....Hehe.(running joke, I know only getting $10/wk will only benefit me when we have a 20-25% down payment on our first house...but I gotta poke fun at her).

For what its worth, Thanks Dana!!!

Kingtal0n

I think Dana should be happy.

that list is enough to make anyone cringe and just buy it pro-built instead of having to go through all of that by themselves. I know I would if i knew all the little things that could go wrong. already ive had my trans out to fix a stupid snap ring in the bottom of the case, and i STILL have a shifting issue and engine breaking issue.

These things are VERY complex, and I just realized how lucky I am that it didnt explode when i turned the key!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Thank you for posting this. I have had many conversations with dana where I should have wrote things down. I am doing an engine build for a friends 93Z and the tranny is needing rebuild too, because of the lack of faith in local tranny shops I was considering getting Dana's rebuild kit and after talking with him doing it myself. I have already installed a transgo kit 2 & 3 and the other shift kit(can't remember the name) and have had the internals out of a TH350 that we replaced the sun shell gear, so I have been in transmission's some but not a complete rebuild. I will be printing this info soon.

Jason

Kingtal0n

UPDATE:

I also want to add some more notes:

At one point in the Trans-go intructions, you are directed to drill 3 holes into the valve body. One goes under the new 3-2 control valve, one goes over it, and one goes near the "bathtub"...

In the instructions, it looks as if they are telling you to drill a hole through the bathtub directly, which is what I did. DONT DO THAT!

The hole goes through the SIDE of the "bathtub" through the manual valve partition. Drilling directly into the bathtub will create these symptons:

Loss of governor pressure (late shifts)
Bindup while downshifting from 4-3 manually
Blown 4th Servo Piston Seal
Burned transmission fluid
Possible broken case on servo side

Included is a picture of my blocked off hole that was drilled incorrectly, and the new hole that is correct. Its VERY easy to screw this up if you have never done it before, like me

Kingtal0n

Another thing Is to NOT forget to install the shim into the aluminum bushing, and see the valve has 2 springs.. one on the outside one on the inside.. when i first did my TV valve install from Trans-go I incorrectly put the spring on the valve, AND i forgot to put the shim behind the spring.

Kingtal0n

Proper 1-2 Accumulator Piston Install Order

Kingtal0n

Another thing; The first retainer of springs to go inside the CASE over the Low/Reverse piston is a pain to install without the right tool. I couldnt find the right tool, so i made one. Very simple, very easy... So if your in a bind feel free to copy me!

D Stroy H8

cough cough STICKY cough cough

89305RS

i second that sticky:hail:

Kingtal0n

Also I would like to report that everything is still operating smoothly, i put 300 miles on the transmission since the rebuild and I can attest to its rock solid performance.

Im also getting better fuel economy, beleive it or not, I come off the line at light part throttle roughly 2000-2400RPMS with this 3000 Stall 9.5" converter and when i hit about 30MPH i lock it up in 3rd gear and float around town like nothing... if i get over 45MPH i put it into 4th (without unlocking it) and continue to float. I've put over 230 miles on the car since I filled it up, and still have 1/4 of a tank... very nice!!

and fast! I've messed around with a few cars on the highway, and even with the restrictive TPI that stall makes for a KILLER RIDE all through 3rd gear, very snappy and fast compared to before.. I STILL have 2.73's in the back too!

Thanks again Dana at Probuilt!

Kingtal0n

TTT

Also, How many of you would buy a DVD Labelled "How to Properly Build and Modify your 700R4 to handle 500 Horsepower"

The Do's and Don'ts of High performance transmission rebuilding? A DVD complete from start to finish, for a Novice whos never seen the inside of a transmission before? How many of you would buy such a thing, and how much would you pay for it? To be able to build em' like Dana at Probuilt does?

SweetS10v8

Wow, I would hope your not thinking of putting that out after your first rebuild and using Danas knowledge????

That would take the statement i made earlier in this thread to new heights...

Kingtal0n

LOL NO! IM trying to convince Dana to make a Video and Sell it so that people can have a better clue as to what goes on inside these things. Dont you think its a good idea? And I DID ask Dana if it was OK to post this info... His response was "OF course. I always tell everyone the kind of detail I put into my trasmissions and I dont keep special build "secrets"".

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Yup, he told me the same thing. It amazes me how much Dana knows and how willing he is to share it.

:hail:

I'd buy a DVD, heck I'd buy two.

CrazyHawaiian

I would definately buy one. $20-$25 is the going price for most entertainment DVD's. Since this will be a tech rebuild type of thing, I'm sure he could sell it for a bit more, maybe $30-$40. Even if I had the book, I would still buy the DVD because its usefull to actually see what your supposed to do before you do it. In fact I think tech DVD's are so usefull, if you guys made one, I would link to it off my website.

I now have 4 700R4's and 2 of them are on their way out. I'm strongly considering trying to rebuild them myself, though I didnt know they were more complicated than an engine. Maybe I should convert my L03 to a LB9 before trying to tackle a 700R4.

CrazyHawaiian

Did some searching and came up with this:

http://www.drivelineplus.com/videos/transmission.phtml

Also found someone selling the spring compressor for the low reverse piston on ebay just incase anyone wants to pick one up:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33727

Kingtal0n

I too saw those videos.... theres a guy selling them on ebay too.
While they are probably great videos for a re-build, i doubt they explain in detail what parts need grinding / sanding / polishing etc.. where to drill the proper sized holes for the trans-go shift kit and at what angle etc... what the proper stackup is for aftermarket clutch packs and clearances etc...

So this video with Dana's knowledge would be how to build a 700R4 to handle POWER, not just to re-furbish one so to speak. I think its a great idea... And it would be neat if it contained the information for modifying the valve-body depending on torque converter and application, installing trans-go kits and all that good stuff.

CrazyHawaiian

Oh sorry I wasnt trying to compare those to you idea. I thought you could use that website to determine a price range for the DVD you're talking about. I'd prolly buy both since I'm a NOOB, but your right having info on how to mod them for power would be very very usefull.

BFDPerformance

Want to do mine? :hail:

Kingtal0n

TTT And an update:

Transmission still working good as new! Now behind a Twin Turbo 355, pushing 12-14PSI of boost. FIRM CONSISTANT shifting, just like new. I would estimate... eh 10,000~ miles? hard... miles. Ahem.

THANK YOU AGAIN DANA!!!!

BFDPerformance

i was serious.....want to do mine?

Kingtal0n

LOL where do you live? I'll HELP you do yours.

Tony89GTA

iTrader: (7)

Is there any chance he still going to produce that DVD?

Rabbitt

Hell, i would definately buy that dvd, no questions on that one. After hearing that testiment to Dana, i would take the tranny outta my car this winter and rebuild+shift kit when the car is parked. My engine has something between 350-380 hp and i am going to look for more next summer. My R4 just got rebuilt before i bought the car by a highly respected transmission shop in my area and i would still definately do that. Tell Dana to do it.

92blue

iTrader: (1)

That transmission looks familiar

I'm sure glad you bought it, I was having a hard time finding people that needed a tranny.

Kingtal0n

yeah angel, your old 700R4 served its purpose well. You got to drive in my car after it was rebuilt too; just wait till you get a ride with me and 11 PSI of boost

KintaroOe

i know this old, but i was wonderin if that dvd ever came out???

Kingtal0n

Heh, well you would have to ask DANA about that. I doubt it, since I havn't heard anything as of yet, but its still a good freakin' idea. Wish I had the time to go make one... Who knows, my new shop has plenty of space... I already got Dana's approval. This was almost a year ago, though, I dont even own a Camaro anymore. But there is still lots of info on my never-updated website with pictures, though not many, of my 700R4 rebuild.

Also my 700R4 is for sale, with the 9.5" lockup converter all parts supplied by Dana... I have about 500 miles on it. Check the classifieds or my website Geocities.com/kingtaling, if you want to just buy my setup and not worry about having to build your own tranny. Mine costs less and is already put togeter.

jstoltz

iTrader: (16)

how much for tranny? any pics? Thanks John

Kingtal0n

Well I just sold the converter, today. I can take as many pics as you want, but I can tell you since I built it, that its CLEAN. I pressure washed and tanked the case before anything.
Price wise, I cant have it sitting here, so make a reasonable offer. seriouselly, I will take anything reasonable. dana sells these for $1395 + shipping. I have 300-400 miles on mine. make an offer. I am thinking less than 50% of retail, so dont burn your wallets.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

any HP #'s on the dyno? or Et's?

Im interested in buyin the tanny but how many miles are on it?

Here you say 10k HARD miles? then you say 500miles.

last post its down to 3-400??

Kingtal0n

We are talking about 2 transmissions here. The first one I built myself, it went into that car, and then removed to go behind a 383. I built a second one, drove it for 300-500 miles (no speedo.. no idea. 4 trips from miami to coral springs) and blew the motor on the highway due to oil leak. The first one I built is NOT for sale. I have plans for it. The other one IS for sale, has almost no miles on it, and I tend to beleive I built the second one better than the first.

Look at the posting dates, it should illustrate my point. my first build was wayyyy back when I first built that motor. the second motor I built, 383, was after that... I was jumping around in my posting. I had forgotten about that post from wayyy back then, didnt think to read up. If you are local, I have no problem installing it into you car to your satisfaction before accepting money. Im putting my 500+feedback ebay reputation and hundreds of thirdgen / fa post counts on the line and my entire future reputation as an honest person to deal with on the line here. I've bought/sold MANY things from board members and many can vouch for my honesty, even more so locally.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

No biggie man. I never really look at post dates. and thought you were talking about the same tranny the whole time.

Ive followed your blower to turbo to selling everything progress on the board. Im waiting on a possable deal on a built 200r4 right now. but am interested in your 700 also. Just wanted to see what was with the miles. Deff makes more sence now that I know its 2 diff trannys.

Sorry for any misunderstanding.

86TpiTransAm

The 700R4 actually changed late in the 1986 model year. If you have an '86 with a late production date, you probably have the newer 700R4 .... just something to think about if you have an '86

Also, a stock rebuilt 700R4 goes for about $725 so I think you should be asking at least somewhere in the ballpark of $800-$900 for yours.

I was considering doing a rebuild myself .... but after reading what you've posted, I'm not sure I'd have the time to do it all properly..... I didn't figure it'd be as difficult as what it sounds.

TKOPerformance

Also, the 2nd design 700R4 is not the 4L60E. It's still a 700R4, just with an auxilary valve body, more 3/4 clutches, and some other changes. The 4L60E didn't come out until '93 I believe. It is a completely computer controlled trans.

Kingtal0n

Reserved

jstoltz

iTrader: (16)

if anyone needs a scan of something 700r4 related I have the gm handouts that went to the tranny dept's on these. I am considering 200r4 so alot of similarities. pm or e-mail

Kingtal0n

Update:
Bought a transmission from Dana at probuilt:
TH400, Transbrake, Edgeracing converter 9.5" 3800Stall, etc...

Once again Dana at probult (700r4l60e.com) has come through, fast service and honest prices, and a bullet proof trans with a warranty! thanks again Dana!

Kingtal0n

useful post! thanks again Dana!

And fwiw that TH400 is still going strong behind an RB26 skyline engine around 800rwhp!!!

ASE doc

Dana was a huge help on my 700R4 rebuild.

motherT503

To "KingtaOn". I'm new to this website so not sure how things work - but I hope this reaches you cause I want thank you profusely for the incredible amount of work you put into your post here on rebuilding the 700r4... and, to ask you a question bout my 700r4. I'm a journey man Electrician, plumber, and carpenter (in CA the rating is "Tech IV") in residential construction (40 years building and remodelling), and so on occassion, have been asked to "write" (bout remodeling). So I've personally experience in what this took - the great amount of time that went into your post.
Speaking of which: I read ALL of it here - and conclude (thanks to your very detailed post) that trying to figure out what is wrong - never mind rebuilding it if that's what my tranny needs - is WAY over my pay scale.
My question is then : Have you ever come across a situation where the tranny works fine when cold - but when hot, loses 1st REVERSE, and then 2nd gear? ~~ I had assumed my transmission (89 chevy K-2500 so I'm guessing it's a 700r4) - after it was rebuilt in S. Dekota by a very professional (and very clean) tranny shop - was a totally self contained sealed off unit. Therefore, except for the occasionally checking of tranny fluid (it never seemed to lose a drop), I did no maintenance (like changing the filter).
Had I, I would have discovered all the tranny pan bolts had worked loose - one bolt in fact, was completely gone.
Last week, my 50 mile trip to SD to see my grandkids, awoke me to reality bluntly. Upon arrival, I noticed reverse gear one. And, checking the fluid level, found 3 quarts of oil missing.
BUT: Low and behold, I fill it up, let it sit over night, and the next morning drive it home like nothing is wrong (tranny working fine)... right up until I got home and tried to back up into my parking spot. Again, NO REVERSE.
This time it was only a 1/2 quart low. So I got under the truck / discovered the loose bolts / replaced the one missing and tightened the rest / filled it with tranny fluid again - and then, the following day, went for 20 mile drive - only to have the same thing happen. Have now done this several times. It is no longer losing fluid of course, but it still RUNS FINE when cold... and LOSES REVERSE (and 2nd?) when hot.
Conclusion... I'm thinking the heat from my initial SD trip burned up a selenoid or something that controls the pumping of tranny fluid (at a certain pressure). Given I've NEVER had problems with this tranny before (and it was strong - the S. Dekota shop did a great job installing extra heavy duty clutches n stuff etc..), I have to assume all this new problem is a result of the tranny getting VERY hot.
I've BOTH an excellent radiator which keeps the 350 engine (also rebuilt - by me) a lower temperature then the 195 op temp required, AND, an added tranny cooler attached to - and in series with - my radiator's tranny cooling circuit. ~~
ANY thoughts "KingtaOn" would be greatly appreciated. I will meanwhile try to find and contact DANA. But the more heads on this the better I say.
Thank you again for all the work you put into your post. I printed it out for friends who work on engines - to convince them to stay away form working themselves on trannys (lol).... Hope this finds you and your family well... Michael T