ChrisCamaro86

I have a 700R4 on my 1986 Camaro. I want to do a complete flush of the fluids, and while I am at it, replace the pan with a new one and change out the filter as well. Here is my plan:

TCI Auto Aluminum Transmission Pan (Part#: 378010)
TCI Auto Racing Filter and Pan Gaskets (Part#: 378500)

B&M Trick Shift Transmission Fluid (Part#: 80286 DexronIII/Mercon)

Are those the correct tranny pan and filters for my 700R4? My tranny is rebuilt with aftermarket internals and shift kit, etc. Also is this the correct fluid as well? If so, how many qts do I need for the 700R4? Please let me know, I want to start driving my Camaro again! Thanks!

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Everything looks good, except the B&M Fluid. I don't like using anything but Royal Purple, but can't downgrade B&M as I haven't used it. IIRC the Trans and filter take about 5qts. For a total refill of the torque converter and pan, will take about 11.5qts. Have fun, I will be doing this to mine in about a month, but with Royal Purple fluids.

ChrisCamaro86

Really.....You think Royal Purple is better? I know for my Subaru STi, we don't really like using it, especially on tack conditions.

What Royal Purple are you using? Its actually easier to get at the local store than buying the B&M fluids, let me know, thanks!

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

That flush should last you a good 50k before needing it again. So probably not for another 3 years or so. Depending on what you feel is necessary for change intervals.

I spent about $350 on replacing all fluids in my car.

Royal Purple: Motor Oil 5qts., Transmission Fluid 12qts., Differential Fluid 3qts., Power Steering Fluid 2qts., Purple Ice Coolant Additive 1 bottle
Wilwood: DOT4 Racing Brake Fluid 2qts.
Prestone: 50/50 3gal.
Seafoam: Deep Creep 2cans, Seafoam 2cans
Gas: 16 gallons of 94octane (Doing 87 for emissions test)

This all because I am bringing it out of a 3 1/2 year storage.

ChrisCamaro86

And you ran this RP before on your tranny? Awesome, I will try it out, I am sure Pep Boys or something has them in stock. Thanks again for the info!!!

BTW, how do you perform the Seafoam stuff? I have heard/seen it, but curious how it works since I have a carb'ed engine...

KNBlazer

total fluid change, if this is a recently rebuilt transmission and the fluid is not burnt, then go ahead... but if you haven't kept up on routine maintenance, be wary, as the new detergent agents in the fresh fluid could dislodge unwanted crap, causing your tranny to become a boat anchor... a complete flush as I was told by a 30+ year transmission shop owner, was "Don't say anymore" transmission flushes are bad, "a simple filter change is all you need."

let us know what happens after your fluid change..

ChrisCamaro86

Thanks for the info. It isn't a recent rebuilt tranny. That was done long ago in 2002-2003. I haven't put that many miles (50k not even close) since then. The Camaro sat and was used and then put on the back burner when I got my new Subaru STi. Now that I have a total of 3 cars, the Camaro is in line to get an overhaul, starting with this and the new exhaust so I can start driving her everyday. The shop I am using is highly regarded as a top notch performance shop, they deal with this and classic muscle all day. Plus they have this great machine that flushes the tranny out, so I am 100% sure they won't have a problem. I just want to make sure the tranny has good fluids in it before I start putting miles on her again. I will keep all you updated, ordering the stuff next week

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

This will be my first Royal Purple for my car, since it is coming out of storage.

Seafoam can be ran many ways. I am talking about SEAFOAM and NOT SEAFOAM-DEEP CREEP 2 different types.

SEAFOAM ONLY.

Let car warm up and idle. Have someone get in the car and hold revs at about 2k to keep from stalling. Then take the line to your brake booster feeding into the intake manifold and have it suck up 1/3 of the bottle. After that turn the car off for 5 minutes. Then restart the car and hold revs at about 2k, letting all the Seafoam come out as well as what it cleaned, until no smoke comes out. Note: Some cars have lots of smoke, some don't, the less the better.

Then turn the car off, add 1/3 to oil (before you do your oil change to royal purple, or whatever your using). Restart the car, let it idle and warm up to operating temp. Then pull the car out, drive like 2 houses down, then come back and do an oil change. DO NOT drive around with Seafoam in the oil for any longer than a minor run, maybe less than 5 minutes, maybe less than that, maybe just pull the car out the driveway, let it get some angle and pull it back in and change the oil.

Then after all that, add 1 bottle to a half tank of gas, then fill the tank all the way back up, and drive.

Enjoy your newly replenished motor.

SEAFOAM DEEP CREEP ONLY.

This may be easier for your carb, just spray this while holding revs into your carb and that's all. Its basically an aerosol form of Seafoam, but also works on loosening bolts

KNBlazer is right though. Run the car again before changing fluids to Synthetic. My car when I got it just had fluids changed and the oil came out nice and true black, so I know the oil was still very good in the motor. Also flushes sometimes can dislodge large chunks of gunk and can actually be worse, so changing the fluids regularly may be best, then if you feel you still need it down the road, get a full flush.

I plan to change my fluids, run them, then have them flushed and replaced again. Flushes can get expensive though. Trans flushes usually start around $100, then add what fluids you want to flush with.

Good luck.

KNBlazer

ask questions about this flushing procedure... and if they ask you to sign a waiver or something, make sure you read the fine print... also ask them, if they will warranty any damages done to the tranny... the only way I would ever consider flushing a tranny would be using the cooling lines rigged up to two 5 gallon containers....

built91Z28

I'm a tech at a dealership and we do these flushes with the machine. If a customer has an older car or a car with over 75000 miles on it, I wont do a flush unless they have done regular trans services every 30000 miles or so.

As far as flushing the trans using two 5 gallon buckets, that basically what the machine does. It holds 15 quarts in the machine. We just hook the two lines out of the machine up to the cooler lines and as the fluid comes into the machine, it pushes out roughly the same amount.

ChrisCamaro86

Good information here. Alright, so without doing the flush, its still 11.5 Qts needed to fill the 700R4 up, correct?

built91Z28

Only if its a dry trans that hasnt been used. If the car is driving now and you just want to pull the pan to change the fluid, its probably about 5 quarts.

ChrisCamaro86

Thats exactly what I would like to do. Awesome, I will buy 6 just incase.

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for starting this thread so I didnt have too. Bought the stuff to do it a few days ago and had most of the same questions

ChrisCamaro86

Got all the parts I ordered the other day!!! Just installed on Tuesday the B&M Tranny Pan, TCI Tranny Filter w/ gasket, and the Royal Purple ATF Synthetic Tranny Fluid. So far it is running great! Tranny shifts about the same, but might need some time to sink in, since I only ran it down the street and back. Install was pretty easy, I drove the Camaro on my Race Ramps and started cranking away at the tranny bolts. The bolts weren't as tight as I thought, actually somewhat past finger tight I would say. I also have to note how STUPID it is that the stock tranny pan doesn't have a drain plug, what a complete FAIL on the engineering portion of that part. Also, they should of dimpled or made it a bit easier to get the 2 bolts towards the back of the pan. That tranny crossmember gets in the way, simple bend in the crossmember would allow your socket through would be simple enough! After the pan was off it was pretty clean in there (the tranny), fluids were a little black and then turned red once the filter was taken out. I used about 5 3/4 QTs of the Royal Purple ATF. I am going to check it again when I start the car up and drive it down the street. Next up is the Flowmaster catback with the new Edlebrock y-pipe. Then I am stopping by a shop to get the cat portion welded up, then inspection!!! BTW, no one sells the cat delete portion for our cars right? You need to just get a muffler shop to fab up that 25" section thats missing between the y-pipe and catback?

Heres a quick pic of the new B&M Tranny pan after I installed it that night:

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Nice to hear everything going well.

From most y-pipes to the catbacks it is usually overall 23". If you make it slip fit on each end then get a good 1"-2" overlap on each end, so about 25-27". If you plan to keep it bolt on, measuring will need to be done. Nothing a local shop can't do quickly.

Install your headers and y-pipe, then the catback. Then measure.

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

Good luck with the deep pan. I've heard of them getting ripped off or damaged because they become the lowest thing on the car.

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

I was thinking the same thing. That bolt in the picture looks like it is the lowest part on the car now.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

iv use Ford Type F, in all my trannys....(racen)

thats all B&M is. just Blue

AFTER ALL YOU WILL BE DROPPING THE FLUID every year or 2..Right?

ChrisCamaro86

I actually ordered the stock depth pan not the deep one. This one is a hair deeper but it doesn't sit as low as you think.

DJP87Z28

Heres a quick pic of the new B&M Tranny pan after I installed it that night:
[/QUOTE]


Looks good now, but wait until you hit a few speed bumps or steep inclines. I would make ir a habit of looking under the car for tranny fluid. Reason: Aluminum dose not bend (like steel one) but CRACKS.

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

So I went to do mine today... HOW did you get those 3 bolts off the rear of the pan??? Does it really require taking that crossmember off?!

On mine it's not even the crossmember that's in the way, it'sthe piece that goes between the bushings and the transmission.
These cars have got the be the biggest PAIN IN THE A** to do anything on. Even a simple trans filter change isn't easy because of their poor design.

ChrisCamaro86

Well you can remove the crossmember. I just unbolted it but not fully and used a jack to raise the tranny up, this allowed me more room to work with. Use a rachecting wrench to get the bolts out quickly, or just sit there for a bit with a reg wrench. Or if you use a 1/4" drive socket with an extension you can barely fit through!

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

What part exactly did you unbolt? was it the bolts that go thought the two round bushings and through the crossmember?

ChrisCamaro86

Yeah I believe those were the ones I unbolted, but not fully. Then I put a wooden block on a jack and raised the tranny just enough to be able to reach in there with more room. I believe the back middle bolt was the most PITA, the side ones weren't that bad. If you have a racheting wrench its easier! Try 1/4" drive socket (short) with the extension. The extension is really skinny and it will fit through with the leverage you have on having the tranny being raised slightly.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

That pan is a BAD CHOICE, especially if your car is lowered.

A tall speed bump or going over a steep driveway with the transition to flat up top, can easily catch that bolt head, rip the bolt out & crack the pan. You'll realize it has happened, a few miles down the road after all your fluid is gone & the tranny burns up inside.

I've had my pans drain head bolt get caught. It sucks dude.

Here is a better choice, if you want a drain in your pan, if the drain is flush,:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3886/

I wouldn't care if it had been black or plain steel, preferred it actually.....But the pan is stock depth, the drain plug is flush (I think) & the pan is steel. All good things.

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

Haha, i was just looking at that pan you posted earlier today Stephen, I'm glad to see you recomend it. It's less than $30 and has a plug so I wont have to go through this trans unbolting again...
And thanks for the advice Chris. I was pissed toady cuz I was al ready to do this thinking it was gonna be easy like it should. But there's alwasy SOMETHING.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

I sent Summit a question, asking if the drain plug is recessed or sticks out. When I hear back, I'll post their answer. Sticking out could = bad news for it!

I coulda sworn they had a pic showing it recessed, but can't find the pic now.....

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Got actual pics of the Summit one. The bolt head is exposed, not flush.

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

That one doent look so bad though. bolt head is pretty short and mounts right against the pan. The TCI one bulges around the bolt it looks like making it even lower.

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

The pan removal isnt as bad as I thought. Only gotta take the nut off the center bolt then jack up the trans a little. Still waiting on my new steel chrome pan.

EVERYONE who does this should buy a new pan with a plug and put it on. It makes future fluid changes, SOOOOOO much easier. I got my 700R4 pan off ebay, only $27.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRANS...item439e9734d9

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Coulda bought the same thing from Summit. A reputable seller.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3886/

Hope yours is a cheaper Korean-built rip off.

Either way, you end up with a bolt head that hangs down & can get ripped out of the pan. Been there, done that......

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

haha, I find it funny that you think the summit brand is something good. I can tell you the quality of Summit brand parts is NO BETTER than what I bought. Probably made in the exact same Chinese factory. And it was a few bucks cheaper since the box it comes in won't say Summit on it, although they're the exact same thing.

I think this is the first time someone has wished ill on me here...

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

I didn't wish you ill, but I can if you want me to.....

They may very well be the exact same items, off the exact same production line. I just have more faith in a company that can warranty their stuff, not just any random fleaBay seller.

You said you paid $27. Summit is only 95 cents cheaper. I'll give my extra 95 cents to a reputable place, thank you.

In any case, I won't buy EITHER one, due to the bolt head hanging down & getting caught. Been there, done that.

At least with a smooth pan bottom it would just slide & not have the head get caught & ripped out.

Ron U.S.M.C.

For those of us that decide to keep the stock pan I have a little trick Ive been using. I take a fluid pump and run the hose down the trans. fill tube and extract most of the fluid from the pan before removing the pan. Takes about 5 min. to pump it out. Have considered attaching a drain plug to the rear side of the stock pan but have concerns about it leaking.

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

This is the quote in which I thought you were hoping the pan ended up being a piece of **** and breaking on me because I didnt buy the summit pan.

I'm not in a place where I can spend tons of money on a trans pan, so I got what I could afford. Even the expensive aluminum TCI has a plug that sticks down. I'm aware of the problems a drain plug can cause, and you'll see I was the first one to warn the thread starter about the pan he bought. And ya gotta add in the shipping Summit would have charged.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

My apologies. I typo'd, which isn't uncommon these days..... I meant "isn't a cheaper...." My fingers type faster than my brain.

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

no prob, we all do it.

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

I'm in the process of removing my pan as well. My bolts were about the same as yours. Much easier to remove than expected. I didn't have any issues reaching the rear bolts with a standard ratchet, socket and 3" extension. All the bolts came right out. My issue is getting the pan past the crossmember. That piece inside the pan on the rear of the drivers side (whatever it is) prevents me from moving the pan forward around the crossmember to get the pan off. There's literaly less than an inch of the crossmember preventing me from getting the pan off. I guess I'll just have to loosen the bolts on the crossmember and hope I can manage to get that darn thing off. Anyone have issues or suggestions with this?

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

I know what your talking about. I got the pan off, but couldnt get it back under the crossmember. My aftermarket one went on fine though. If I was you I'd replace the stock pan with one that had a plug, makes doing this job MUCH easier.
If you do have to end up seperating the tranny from the crossmember you only need to take out the very middle nut, then put a jack under the torque arm mount an jack the back of the tranny up a bit.

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

That's part of the plan. I am installing a tranny cooler, r/r the filter, and replacing the pan. Everything was going smooth until I hit this snag. I'll try to jack the tranny up an inch or two to see if I can get the stock pan off.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

how was the royal purple atf ?