jloomis95

My 92 Camaro 3.1 v6 automatic fuel injected car is no longer starting
I had no trouble till the other day. After i started the car up I maybe went about 5 mins down the highway and the car lost all power so i put it in neutral and coasted with the car off to the side of the road. Now the car cranks strong, but wont turn over. Not sure what the issue is. I checked for codes using a paper clip and only get 12 over and over again. One thing i noticed is when i turn the key on the temp gauge shoots all the way over maxing out. Not sure if that will help, thanks you for any help you can spare.

codbottle

Check the fuel pump if its cranking but not firing up

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

Get a fuel pressure gauge and check for pressure on the rail when you turn the key to "on". Check to make sure you're getting strong spark on all the plugs. Check compression on all cylinders. If everything else checks out, check the resistance on your fuel injectors.

Firebird_305

I agree with them, check fuel pump then check fuel pressure. If both are in working order then electrical short some place which would be tripping your temp sensor to read max when you turn key over?

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

The temp sensor that feeds the gauge is totally different than the one that feeds the PCM. My temp sensor does that as well, I think they're suppose to sweep like that when the vehicle is started...

Firebird_305

Ahh ok I know most newer vehicles do that right before it turns over almost every gauge maxes out then drops back down. Though if it was the injectors and only one wasn't getting the correct voltage it still would allow the car to turn over. It would just run rough. I had that with both of my trans ams. The first one took the dealership over a month to figure out what was wrong with it (smart guys) and the one I just bought I knew soon as I heard it start.
I'm going 90% on fuel pump

jloomis95

it was the fuel pump, it works but doesnt give enough pressure for the injectors. I have the parts now just figuring out how to do it. First what would the best way to drain the fuel tank? And i am working on removing some suspension parts but the bolts and rust pretty good. I cant break them loose from the bushing even with air tools. The bolt doesnt even spin with the bushing. Here are some pictures, what is the best way to handle it this. Is there a better way then cutting the bolt and bushing out.

codbottle

Electric syphon pump or just a syphon is the brst i can tell you

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Hate to say it, but you're going to have to cut the control arm(s) off. I got one of mine off with a bit of luck and a lot of force, but the other one didn't move with a lot of hammering and had to be cut off on both ends.

At the very least, you're looking at new bushings and new bolts. If I were you, I'd replace the control arms while I was down there with some aftermarket ones (Founders Performance has them for less than $50) while I was at it. And make sure to use plenty of anti-seize compound putting it back together.

Also, I swapped to a carbureted in-tank sender and plan on going with an external fuel pump. I don't want to be stranded at the side of the road with a dead GM or otherwise pump that it's going to take 5 hours to get at.

Did you try replacing the fuel filter before you went ahead and messed with the rear end?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

you can try nut splitter, break the nuts off and see if you an beat the bolt out, or turn it out with a impact wrench.

after that, try heat, but these bolts tend to seize and you have to cut them out and replace them

regal301

fuel filters dont fix dead pumps.

i have never seen or heard of a fuel filter fixing a no start in my 15 years working at dealers.

external pumps dont last as long as internal pumps.
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get a 3 foot long 1/2 drive breaker bar.forget the impact gun on those bushings,the rubber bushing will absorb the impact from the gun.your going to need brute force on this one.and use only 6 point sockets and box end wrenches .worst case will be cut the nuts off and pound the bolts through the bushings.those dont look bad and should all come off.

you can also cut a hole in the hump in the hatch and cut the fuel lines and lift the sender out from in the car,then reconnet them with compression fittings,about 100 times easier than the dropping the rear B.S.

search fuel pump trap door

and unless your exhaust is new your most likely going to destroy that too.

K-slice

iTrader: (2)

If you value you're vehicle at all you'll ignore anyone who tells you to cut a hole in the floor...

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Dude, he didn't say the pump was dead (he said it works, actually)... He said that the flow was insufficient and the pressure was low. First thing I would tackle would be the filter, which would be the first restriction in the system. If the filter were clogged, there wouldn't be enough flow to build pressure at the fuel rail... And then, of course, you could have breaks/pinholes in the lines between and what not. Cheap and easy first, long, hard and expensive later. Unless you work for a dealership, of course... And, what is he going to do if the pump doesn't fix the problem?

And, most likely, cutting the nuts off of the LCA bolts isn't going to do squat as most likely the bolts are frozen in the bushing sleeves. He's going to have to cut the bolts and then replace the bushings. I used my 3 ton jack under an extension for my breaker bar (extension being about 4'long on the end of a 2' breaker bar) and didn't move the things (but lifted the whole rear end of the car), so no, brute force isn't going to work.

And just how is he going to wreck the exhaust? If he's cutting on the LCA bushings/bolts/nuts/what have you, which are nowhere near the exhaust, nothing is going to happen. The only part of the exhaust he needs to worry about is the 2 bolts holding the intermediate pipe to the converter and the clamp/hanger bolts at the rear to drop the system from the tail of the converter out to the tail of the car. This is, of course, unless he is using a plasma cutter/acetylene torch to cut the bolts.

regal301

first thing should be pinch off the return to eliminate the regulator............. not change fuel filter

low fuel pressure = bad pump,or pulsator (fuel damper)is bad,either way same fix.

pretty simple system,12v to pump,pump sends fuel through the damper through sender to rail,reg holds specified pressure and returns the rest to the tank.

what the hell do you mean if the pump dont fix it?

your car is in pieces sitting in budweiser boxes on the side of a barn,my **** runs

if you cut the nuts off you can hammer or air chisel them out of the sleeves

ive changed 4 of these rears this year alone, and only cut one bolt.

touch old exhaust,have to replace old exhaust.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Dude, go back to school...

If there is insufficient pressure to the rail in the first place (as opposed to getting full pressure that drops), that means that insufficient fuel is reaching the rail in the first place. Replace the 15-minute, $10 part (fuel filter) before going through and cutting $15-20 bolts and replacing $25-30 bushings, dropping the rearend and dropping the fuel tank (hours) and the $60 fuel pump and sock.

According to the GM FSM, following flow chart A-7, second page, if the system has low pressure, the FIRST THING REPLACED IS THE FUEL FILTER (actually, check for restricted lines or filter, but same thing). NOT DROPPING THE FUEL TANK AND REPLACING THE PUMP. Then you pinch off the return line, not before. I have it right here, in 2 manuals (87 and 91).

Again, why would he have to replace anything in the exhaust other than a couple of bolts? Drop it out in one piece when the rear is out of the way and pull it out the back. I pulled my whole exhaust system from the manifolds back in one single piece when my rearend was pulled, and have pics to prove it. Didn't require replacement of one single piece. Only replaced what I replaced because it was necessary due to rust damage and going with aftermarket pipes anyways (headers, cat back).

And, again, those bushings are going to come out of the LCAs before the bolts are going to come loose from the sleeves. And the only way to get at them (with a shop press) would be to cut the arm(s) off in the first place, which would mean cutting the bolts anyways, which would make the whole thing pointless.

regal301

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regal301

how many dead fuel pumps or blown out pulsators have come back to life after a new filter? -----> 0

the fuel sock on the pump will clog before the filter,and the pump has to pump all that trash before it even gets to the filter.

even pretend the pump managed to pass that through,and cause a blockage,it would have shown up as a fuel starvation problem long before it got to a no start,and if it did plug solid(must be one tough pump because the filter media is bigger than the pump itself),the pump would dead head and burn up in less than a minute and should blow the fuse beacuse of current draw.

go ahead and change the filter,you will need to anyway,then when its still dead,start dropping the tank.

this is like saying an oil filter will fix a motor will no oil pressure........

jloomis95

fuel pump and fuel pump have been replaced already. I have no fuel coming out of the injectors... any ideas? there is fuel all the way up to the rail but when checking pressure the fuel leaks out instead of blasting out. thanks for any help

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Well, I'm sure the other guy will tell you to replace the pump again...

But, I'd say to blow the crud out of the pressure line with a blow gun and a rubber tip. Probably easier to use the blow gun in the engine compartment and disconnect the filter end of the line before putting a rubber hose on the line and blowing it out into a oil pan or something. Also, make sure you don't have a code 46... Just double check this if the engine doesn't fire after you blow out the fuel line. Also, if all of the above is okay, then the clog is probably somewhere between the fuel block (the part the fuel lines connect to) and the fuel hoses in the engine compartment. The fuel block can be removed if you're careful and you can put the blow gun tip in the pressure line hole and blow out the pressure line.

:edit: Actually, now that I think about it, the first thing to do is to remove the inlet line from the fuel filter (you DID install the filter the right way, right? It only goes one way!) and cycle the fuel pump into a measuring container, measuring the amount of fuel flowed in, say, 15 seconds or so (forgot the actual number, and I'll need to look it up) to make sure there isn't a problem between the fuel pump and filter.

For the other guy... Didn't need to replace the pump, did he? Didn't need to touch the rear end of the car, did he? I tried to tell you the problem was between the sender and the engine, but you're just too smart for me .