Power AdderGetting a Supercharger or Turbocharger? Thinking about using Nitrous? All forced induction and N2O topics discussed here.
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The exhaust feeding my turbo is mostely stock. The diameter varies from 2.25 to 2.5". It is actually 3" for a little bit; for some reason the factory converter had a 3" outlet
I don't think the exhaust wrap would be worth the hassle. First of all, the lag is very tolerable when the turbo is sized properly. My (street) tires barely hook in 3rd gear when the boost hits. Faster response would make traction even more of a problem, unless we are talking about a race car with race tires (but you wouldn't put a RMT on a race car anyway). You can't beat a healthy Mustang when your tires are spinning. Second, the wrap wont last very long. I had a small section of heat wrap on my downpipe where the charge plumbing came close to it, and it was falling off by the next oil change.
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Why, does it have poor response? I don't know the exact details of the T3 you're using, but unless it is really large it should respond nicely on a 3.0L V6, even remote mounted.
If it is off an early 300zx then it should be about perfect. The twin 300zx ran the smaller T25s.
I don't know the setup or the mechanics, but is there an exhaust of intake pipe leak?
Originally posted by 89JYturbo Why, does it have poor response? I don't know the exact details of the T3 you're using, but unless it is really large it should respond nicely on a 3.0L V6, even remote mounted.
i wouldnt call it poor response but it would be better if the boost built in first gear...the 88-89 300Z used a smaller T25 so i was thinking it was better suited to the RMT ...its a spare turbo in the garage and the beauty of a RMT is that swapping in/out is a breeze.
What you got is a RMT. That is better than N/A but not as good as an engine mount turbo.
It doesn't make boost in first gear because you are throwing cold exhaust at it. Just like an engine mount turbo won't build as much on a cold engine. Just like how big rig won't build boost fast until full operating temp.
Try this, rev the bag out of it to get the exhaust hot. Slap it in first gear and go for it. See if it builds more boost when launching that way.
You are sticking a cork on it with a T25. Yeah, more low end but a big sacrifice on the top. If ya only street it then the T25 could be better.
Kind in mind an RMT is better than N/A and EMT (engine mount turbo) is better than an RMT. I see an EMT in your future.
Got any pics of the setup? Custom setup pics are great to look at.
I just notice your sig says 200sx.....didn't they have engines with a T3 from the factory in some of them?
The 1986 and down had them. $100 for a JYard 200zx turbo manifold
His tag line shows that it has a 3.0 V6. That won't be as easy to mount a turbo under the hood.
My Z24 doesn't boost in first gear. Neither does my TT IROC (with the two turbos mounted on the manifolds). Both of them have a lot of torque NA, and if you punch it in first gear, the engine will just run out almost immediately, especially if the tires spin. The turbo(s) never catch up until the 1-2 shift. My IROC actually has more tire spin issues in second than in first because of the the boost.
My Z24 has full boost by mid second gear if the tires hook. At 10psi boost in third gear, the turbo comes in so fast (around 3000-3500R) it breaks the tires loose and spins to very near to 60mph. You gotta pay attention or it will torque steer you where you don't intend to go! I wouldn't even consider going engine mounted turbo for reasons of lag or lack of turbo response.
As Junkcltr stated, make sure, there are no boost leaks or exhaust leaks in your system. The BOV can leak and you will never know it. Remove it (assuming you have one) and plug the opening, then see if the response improves.
some were turbocharged from the factory,but it was a 1.8 four cylinder...the 3.0 was never turboed in the 200sx[no room for the 300zx manifold]...and yes,this is a street only car....i'm looking for as much response this set up can give[so far its been great].
Originally posted by 89JYturbo His tag line shows that it has a 3.0 V6. That won't be as easy to mount a turbo under the hood.
My Z24 doesn't boost in first gear. Neither does my TT IROC (with the two turbos mounted on the manifolds). Both of them have a lot of torque NA, and if you punch it in first gear, the engine will just run out almost immediately, especially if the tires spin. The turbo(s) never catch up until the 1-2 shift. My IROC actually has more tire spin issues in second than in first because of the the boost.
My Z24 has full boost by mid second gear if the tires hook. At 10psi boost in third gear, the turbo comes in so fast (around 3000-3500R) it breaks the tires loose and spins to very near to 60mph. You gotta pay attention or it will torque steer you where you don't intend to go! I wouldn't even consider going engine mounted turbo for reasons of lag or lack of turbo response.
As Junkcltr stated, make sure, there are no boost leaks or exhaust leaks in your system. The BOV can leak and you will never know it. Remove it (assuming you have one) and plug the opening, then see if the response improves.
it sounds just like my car...i have to shift outof first so fast because the rpms...second gear and boost starts to build and it will hit 6-7 psi[stock wastegate] by 3000rpm...gears third and up it pulls great..i dont have a BOV and there are no leaks[i'll recheck]..what you think about changing the gear ratio or tire height to place more load on the engine to build boost sooner???.
I don't know much about the V6 stuff and driveline components. From what I heard about them in terms of durability I would have to say that both of you have just about an ideal setup. I wouldn't think you would want a lot of boost out of hole. Those ETs that 89JYTurbo has are impressive.
Interestesting that your TT Camaro doesn't boost in first gear. The second just gen I did builds boost in first gear. I wonder why some engine do and some don't. The sec. gen. has too much actually. I want to figure out the $58 code so that it limits boost in first (low rpms) by opening the wastegates.
Originally posted by junkcltr
Interestesting that your TT Camaro doesn't boost in first gear. The second just gen I did builds boost in first gear. I wonder why some engine do and some don't. The sec. gen. has too much actually. I want to figure out the $58 code so that it limits boost in first (low rpms) by opening the wastegates. [/b]
I think it is because of the gearing. The TKO 5 speed has a 1st gear of 3.27 and in the rear axle I'm running 3.70 gears. The top of first comes VERY fast. I aslo leave the line near idle (2k RPM at the most on the 18" street tires). There is no load against a converter to get the turbos spinning. If I go WOT at low RPM in 3rd or higher gear it will have full boost buy 2500rpm.
I'm not claiming to have a perfect combo of parts or tuning on my TT IROC either, which may effect the response a little. I think it should be faster than it is. I only ran 1 drag run with the new T3/T4 turbos. On the 18" street tires, I went a 12.6 at 113mph spinning all of second gear and bouncing off the rev limiter the last 200' or so (I should have shifted into 5th I guess, but I wasn't expecting to need to do that, and by the time I realized I was through the traps). Funny thing is, it didn't spin at all in first, I got a high 1.9 60' which I feel is good for low pro street rubber.
Once I have more time, I would like to take some serios tests to see where the cork is in my car (or if there is one other than a bone stock 95k mile L98).
Oh yeah, that 12.6 run was through a pretty crappy 2.25" y-pipe and the exhaust dumped out of a 3" Q-tech electric cut-out. I would like to try open down-pipes next time out. Maybe sticky tires too so I don't have to feather the 1-2 shift.
Originally posted by mcx it sounds just like my car...i have to shift outof first so fast because the rpms...second gear and boost starts to build and it will hit 6-7 psi[stock wastegate] by 3000rpm...gears third and up it pulls great..i dont have a BOV and there are no leaks[i'll recheck]..what you think about changing the gear ratio or tire height to place more load on the engine to build boost sooner???.
That sounds good to me. What makes you want boost faster? What is the power range of the 3.0 NA? I wouldn't go for a smaller turbo unless the 3.0 is a low revving engine. If it pulls to 6k, you hav e good powerband of 3,000rpm. If so, you shouldn't drop below the turbo after changing gears.
Is it crisp when the boost hits? The reason I ask is because a fuel tuning issue may feel like poor turbo response.
If it is just a street car an you need the jumpy feeling of an undersized turbo, then move it under the hood or put the T25 on your RMT like you were suggesting. But I think your car will be faster with the turbo you have now
A lot of OEM turbo cars have a turbo that is too small. They feel fast until you start pushing them.
The cheap units usually have a set rate of gain and no adjustment for fuel pressure at the onset of boost. The Cartech will give you much better results. I had a freind try a cheap $90.00 eBay FMU, and it only worked one time. If stcuk at max fuel presssure and stalled the car off after the first boosted pull. He ended up buying a Cartech, which would have been cheaper to do in the first place.
I think the cheaper units can be made to work fine, but I prefer the adjustability and quality of the Cartech unit. I used to sell them (I still have an account with BEGI). I don't sell them on eBay anymore because the money I made wasn't even near worth the hassle. If I made a large purchase, I was selling them under $200 shipped to the US. Many went on auction for even more, but people who contacted me through a forum as friends got a better deal . With some searching, I bet you can find a dealer that can get you one for under $200.
I see they sell a new unit [BEGI 2035] that is really adjustable...gotta start saving up...maybe i'll give the low buck knockoffs a try and then resell.
Don't get the 2035 unless you want to eliminate the stock rail mounted regulator. The 2025 or 2027 is what you'll want. It has adjustments for the onset of boost and rate of gain.
BTW, what are you using for fuel tuning now? If you are not adding extra fuel for the boost, no wonder you are unhappy with the response. Your lucky you didn't break a piston if you were running into boost with no additional fuel.
i'm still running the stock n/a ecu/injectors[barely using boost, though]...i just won a BEGI unit on ebay last night...since you used to sell these,will a real BEGI2025 be stamped as to which model it is???thanks again for your input,mike.
Its a good thing i found out how well your turbo project turned out! Im about to drop a 355 into my car. With 9.7 compression with the 64cc l98 heads. I want to run a remote turbo system in my iroc. Does anyone have any recommendations? Especially on the size of the turbo, and if I should switch to 72cc heads to give me 9.0 compression. Should i get anything else? Injectors?
Originally posted by mcx i'm still running the stock n/a ecu/injectors[barely using boost, though]...i just won a BEGI unit on ebay last night...since you used to sell these,will a real BEGI2025 be stamped as to which model it is???thanks again for your input,mike.
No, they are not stamped. The instructions tell you how to ID them. The 2025 will have a needle valve regulator for adjusting the rate of gain and it uses 1/8NPT fittings for the inlet and outlet.
I can't believe you were worried about the turbo repsonse and you still don't have any fuel mods. No fuel would have to make it drive terrible!
Originally posted by darkstar575 Its a good thing i found out how well your turbo project turned out! Im about to drop a 355 into my car. With 9.7 compression with the 64cc l98 heads. I want to run a remote turbo system in my iroc. Does anyone have any recommendations? Especially on the size of the turbo, and if I should switch to 72cc heads to give me 9.0 compression. Should i get anything else? Injectors?
You may want to start a seperate thread for your application. I'm not up on the larger turbos used for single applications on larger displacement engines such as yours.
You may be Ok with 9.7:CR if you are careful. You will probably need some way of retarding spark under boost, such as an MSD BTM. For fuel, I've had good luck with my TT IROC using a booster inline pump (stock pump in tank), 24# injectors, and a Vortech Super FMU. The ECM/PROM is stock. Again, I would suggest the cartech FMU over the Vortech SFMU for ease of use. With the high compression, you will want to run premium fuel and limit the boost to around 6psi. You may be able to go higher on boost with intercooling or water injection. Start at 6psi or so and work up if you need more (you always do )
Custom computer tuning is going to give you the most flexabilty for tuning. I chose the above 'band-aids' for ease of use. They have been reliable for me so far, but the advantages of custom EFI tuning are worth looking into as well.
Originally posted by 89JYturbo No, they are not stamped. The instructions tell you how to ID them. The 2025 will have a needle valve regulator for adjusting the rate of gain and it uses 1/8NPT fittings for the inlet and outlet.
I can't believe you were worried about the turbo repsonse and you still don't have any fuel mods. No fuel would have to make it drive terrible!
....it actually runs great with the present set up...but I know better to keep running it this way...and that is why i picked up the BEGI[HOPEFULLY ITS NOT A KNOCKOFF!!]...I ALSO HAVE TO PICK UP A IN-LINE fuel pump to up the pressure....and a fuel pressure guage as well...any recommendations for a quite in-line pump to work with the Begi??
From what I've read, there are no quiet inline pumps. I would test the factory pump before you replace it. It may do fine for mild boost. If you do deicde to replace the pump, consider a Walbro 255lph in-tank pump. Get the high pressure model (GSS340) for use with an FMU. This is what I'm currently running in my Z24 (no booster pump).
Wow good idea. I should start my own thread huh? Wow im very suprised how well your tt iroc turned out. Everyones telling me to run 42# injectors. Your car has given me many ideas, thanks alot. Nice z24 holy crap!
They tell you to run 42# injectors assuming you will be going with a fuel pressure of around 50psi and adding fuel by modifyiong the ECM and it's programing. A 24# injector can flow enough fuel for mild boost if you run an FMU (which ramps fuel pressure up with boost to increase fuel flow via pressure). I wouldn't go much larger than 24# injectors without reprgramming the ECM. My car has very good driveability and fuel milage, even though it has larger injectors than what the ECM is programmed for. The problem with my IROC's fuelg system is that you will be limited to a basically stock engine an maybe 10psi of boost. I have run 10psi of boost for a few test runs, but never hooked up a WB AF meter to ensure the AFR was safe.
Originally posted by 89JYturbo From what I've read, there are no quiet inline pumps. I would test the factory pump before you replace it. It may do fine for mild boost. If you do deicde to replace the pump, consider a Walbro 255lph in-tank pump. Get the high pressure model (GSS340) for use with an FMU. This is what I'm currently running in my Z24 (no booster pump).
alright,i'll try and make do with the stock fuel pump....any advice for dialing in a Begi????
Originally posted by mcx alright,i'll try and make do with the stock fuel pump
Make sure you test it to make sure it will be good for you. At 6psi, it will need to give you around 80psi of reliable fuel pressure!
Quote:
Originally posted by mcx any advice for dialing in a Begi????
Read the instructions
And use a AF meter to make sure your safe. You can just read off the stock O2 sensor. Shoot for .900-.925 volts or so at WOT full boost. Don't crank down the center screw (onset adjustment) too much, or you can damage the stainless diaphragm inside the regulator. I wouldn't set the onset fuel pressure (the pressure when the vacuum hose is disconnected) higher than about 50psi.
The original turbo system cost me around $1000, which included the price of the used turbo, plumbing, oil system, and fuel system mods. I since upgraded to the 3400 V6, which cost around $2000. The 3400 swap could have been done cheaper, but I didn't waste time trying to cut costs- the engine itself cost $950 with low milage, and I changed the starter, PS pump, and a ton of other misc stuff at the same time (the car had ~184k miles or so on it at this time). Then the turbo upgrade and tial external gate added another ~$1000. The clutch was also expensive, $550 or so IIRC. Right there is about $4500. I think with other odds and ends, it has to be near $5k total plus the price of the car. I'm sure I could replicate the same system again for far less because of the experience. Still not too expensive for a reliable deep 12 second daily driver IMHO. It gets just a touch over 20mpg and has A/C and all the emissions systems. I have about 10k miles on the 3400 swap and second stage turbo system now; its about to turn over 195k.
.my set up was around 500.00 for everything[give or take]...used junkyard 300zx parts[t3 turbo,AFM,ECU]...MOST EXPENSIVE was the Mocal oil pump[180.00] and BEGI[78.00 Ebay score].
I would like to do this to my 02 chevy... I was jusr curious if I would hve to change out fp regualtors, or since its a maf system would it compensate... I looked at the sts system, but dont hve 4k to get it and then another 500 to program the computer. I only want to run 5-6psi..... If you have any ideas about this for my truck let me know...
also my brother gave me a td09 turbo off his eclipse. I am nost sure if that is something I can use or not....
__________________ Drew
MAD RACING
For all your performance needs. Nitrous Express, afr heads,Eagle crank and rods. Jimmy jams nitrous accesories, Nitrous instals
478-457-7503
87 Trans Am GTA "resting"
83 z28 one bad 8sec ride
04 ecsb gmc sierra
93 honda accord ex "gas saver"
Originally posted by mcx .my set up was around 500.00 for everything[give or take]...used junkyard 300zx parts[t3 turbo,AFM,ECU]...MOST EXPENSIVE was the Mocal oil pump[180.00] and BEGI[78.00 Ebay score].
What year is the 300ZX turbo from? Could be a T25 or T3.
..i have a T3 from a 84 300zx installed now...i also have a 88 300zx T25 that might get installed when the warmer weather returns...i'm curious to see how the smaller turbo feels as a comparison....i wish USPS would deliver the BEGI so I can finally see what this set up can do.
Originally posted by NOSFEDGTA I would like to do this to my 02 chevy... I was jusr curious if I would hve to change out fp regualtors, or since its a maf system would it compensate... I looked at the sts system, but dont hve 4k to get it and then another 500 to program the computer. I only want to run 5-6psi..... If you have any ideas about this for my truck let me know...
also my brother gave me a td09 turbo off his eclipse. I am nost sure if that is something I can use or not....
6 liter? I have often thought about buying one and turboing it to play around with the cocky guys in their powerstokes and cummins diesels. They couldn't have it if they got blown away by GM gas power. I would try an FMU for only 5-6psi of boost. If detonation becomes a problem, you may need to get into the computer. Or try alky/water injection.
I don't know too much about the Mitsu turbochargers. I'm guessing you will need a pair of them to make it work well. See if you can find a compressor map.
Originally posted by 89JYturbo 6 liter? I have often thought about buying one and turboing it to play around with the cocky guys in their powerstokes and cummins diesels. They couldn't have it if they got blown away by GM gas power. I would try an FMU for only 5-6psi of boost. If detonation becomes a problem, you may need to get into the computer. Or try alky/water injection.
I don't know too much about the Mitsu turbochargers. I'm guessing you will need a pair of them to make it work well. See if you can find a compressor map.
Its a 5.3 liter, but it has plenty of power. I dont no much about turbos at all. i have read some articals here and there, but i Just dont seem to get a lot of it. I have lots of nitrous knowledge though I will try to find out about that turbo. I have a friend that has a bender and can weld very good. i jsut need to get the basic stuff done with your help if ya dont mind....
__________________ Drew
MAD RACING
For all your performance needs. Nitrous Express, afr heads,Eagle crank and rods. Jimmy jams nitrous accesories, Nitrous instals
478-457-7503
87 Trans Am GTA "resting"
83 z28 one bad 8sec ride
04 ecsb gmc sierra
93 honda accord ex "gas saver"
Okay. I just seen 2500 at the bottom of your sig and assumed 6.0. I see that must be a different truck since it's a '98. Doesn't really make a difference anyway. I'll be happy to help.
Originally posted by 89JYturbo Okay. I just seen 2500 at the bottom of your sig and assumed 6.0. I see that must be a different truck since it's a '98. Doesn't really make a difference anyway. I'll be happy to help.
ooopps thats funny. I ment to chagne that its an 02 chevy silverado
__________________ Drew
MAD RACING
For all your performance needs. Nitrous Express, afr heads,Eagle crank and rods. Jimmy jams nitrous accesories, Nitrous instals
478-457-7503
87 Trans Am GTA "resting"
83 z28 one bad 8sec ride
04 ecsb gmc sierra
93 honda accord ex "gas saver"
Just wanted to say that *yes* it is plausible to boost a TBI engine, someone had asked about it. The TB shafts have to be done like a carb would so they don't leak air/fuel mix, and you'd probably wanna go up to a bigger injector with a standalone or at the very least have to do some re-calibration of the box, but it's definitely doable. Procharger even made a TBI kit back in the day, it used supplemental injectors however.
6 liter? I have often thought about buying one and turboing it to play around with the cocky guys in their powerstokes and cummins diesels. They couldn't have it if they got blown away by GM gas power.
That’s not very hard… they’ve been swarming around the local tracks, especially in the last 6 months, and the sad thing is that most of them are well in the 17’s. My stockish K1500 Blazer has that beat. I’d still love to add a little boost and go after the really fast trucks.
On another, but related note, I’m wondering what all you rear mount proponents think about the recent STS mag coverage? ESPECIALLY, the current article in super chevy where they ended up having problems with the kit (like nothing fit) and then they also ended up having problems with everything that everyone asks about happening and the blanket answer is that it doesn’t happen in real life. I was especially entertained how after they got past everything else, they got splashed by some water from a passing semi on the highway and ended up on the side of the road disabled, and eventually ended up wiping out the MAF (I’m guessing from hitting the wires one too many times with some droplets of water).
Mark, I didn't read any of those articles. I have had zero problems with rain water or snow, or any thing like that with my system. And I do drive my car every day. I have driven it in snow and standing water more than once. Heck, I even drove it to our cabin near Lock Haven, PA this summer in the rain, which was about a 120 mile drive for me. I averaged 50 mph both ways and got just over 23mpg (we were doing near 80mph on all the 'big roads').
WRT poor fit and so forth, that is not a RMT problem, but an STS problem (which I'm sure you know). I don't know about you, but I never installed a bolt on turbo kit that bolted on. I only installed two aftermarket turbo kits though, both on imports (see the customer cars section on my webpage if you feel you need to see them).
**I do want to point out that my scavenge pump was replaced at around 17,000 miles (I can't remember if I already posted that or not). I know many were wondering how long it was going to last, since it was a bit out of it's designed operating limits. The pump motor still ran fine, but apperantly the diaphragm was not pumping like it should. I was starting to get a little mist of oil over my rear bumper for about a week. Swapped the pump out and we're back to cherry again. I now have about 21,000 miles on the system, and the pump failure was the only issue related to remote mounting of the turbo. IMO, that was a very minor issue for the amount of fun I've had with the car.
BTW, I'm not trying to sell everyone on the RMT idea. I'm just trying it out and giving my experiences along the way. It certainly isn't for every application, but I think it has it's place.
Wow, I can't believe I just read every word of this thread haha. But, as soon as I read "Cavalier" in the first post, I knew I had to (Read sig for my specs).
So, I've got my slooow 2000 Cavalier with 2200 (2.2L) engine and auto trans. I've thought about RMT in the past for stock-appearance and simplicity (read: no tubes all over the engine bay). At a local Cavalier meet this past fall we had a Dyno Day, and my Cav dyno'd at a whopping 95WHP But everybody was dyno-ing really crappy that day, maybe it was the system or something... who knows...
Anyway, I'm figuring like a T3-ish, just a cheap E-Bay one. Rebuild it if need-be. I'll be putting some Z24 injectors in soon (2.2 is like 16lbs I think, Z of the same year is like 20+lbs), and whatever other little stuff is needed. What do you think of this set-up?? Anything you would change, etc?
That one guy talking about a divorced oil system has me thinking. I could probably find a small 1/2 gallon tank somewhere (motorcyle?) to mount on the other side of the car, and have a cooler in-line too. Use the scavenge pump with a fitting tapped into the bottom of the turbo, then into the tank. So oil would be stored in tank, then go thru the cooler en route to the turbo, go thru turbo, pump would push it back into the tank. Simple enough And of course keep it topped off and bleed the system to ensure that there is no air trapped in it.
Hmm, now to start lookin' at E-Bay for turbos, FPRs, and small tanks...
__________________ 2000 Chevy Cavalier LS - Sedan - Wrecked dirt track racer 2007 Hyundai Elantra 2.0L 5spd manual. Uncomfortable POS!
Hrm, I found a turbo from an 89 300ZX on E-Bay, less than 21 hours left. It's from a twin-turbo engine, but the auction is only one (needs to be rebuilt at that). Any of yall know what the specs are on it?? I searched the P/N on Google, came up with nothing useful. Searched "1989 300ZX turbo" on Google, same as before. Is it the smaller T25 or a larger one?
Edit: Never mind. I did more searching and found out it's only a T25. Might be alright for starters tho, nice n cheap.
I have not had any problems with the air filter or the AFM driving the car in the rain either....i located the parts up high enough and weather proofed the AFM harness connection with the proper tape...its been fine........i finally got delivery of the BEGI and cant wait to get it installed.I need a fuel pressure guage.
Originally posted by 89JYturbo I would just go engine mount for the I4. You have more room under you hood.
Problem with engine mount (for me) is that I would end up wanting like 10psi during normal driving Which means more mods, and more $$$
Besides that, anybody that looks under my hood would see it I like the semi-stealth effect of RMT.
One of the ideas I had (since I already have a full header for the car) was to RMT just behind the engine, about where the cat is, and than hook it up that way. I won't know for sure until I have a turbo in my hands to test-fit tho. I'd rather not mess around cutting up the front of the exhaust tunnel to fit it. I'll be doing more than enough cutting on the top
Ive seen a few RMT cars and there isnt anything semi stealth about em. You can usually hear the whine from a mile off (atleast i can) B/c there is nothing after the turbo... maybe if you stuck a muffler behind it?
^ The place I mentioned before is where the Cat would normally be - not where the muffler would normally be
And then the cat would just be moved back like 10-12" or so. So it'd kinda be a cross between engine-mount and remote/RMT (where RMT is normally in the muffler position). Muffler is a possibility. Just find the quietest 3" possible And the 'stealth' per-se would be when somebody looks under the hood. Not necessarily when you're actually driving. And if there is a very quiet, yet high-flow, 3" muffler available, than it'd be stealth even when moving - except maybe at WOT or shifts.
Originally posted by 89JYturbo Make sure you test it to make sure it will be good for you. At 6psi, it will need to give you around 80psi of reliable fuel pressure!
Read the instructions
And use a AF meter to make sure your safe. You can just read off the stock O2 sensor. Shoot for .900-.925 volts or so at WOT full boost. Don't crank down the center screw (onset adjustment) too much, or you can damage the stainless diaphragm inside the regulator. I wouldn't set the onset fuel pressure (the pressure when the vacuum hose is disconnected) higher than about 50psi.
I finally got to install the BEGI and a fuel pressure guage....the stock pump can only be adjusted up to 60psi using the BEGI top screw, so i'll be looking for a upgrade soon...But i tested it anyway, and it works awsome...the car is an Animal...boost hits harder in second gear and the tires are loosing traction..
I would be careful adjusting the top screw down that tight. You shouldn't take it much over 50psi because it can damage (crack) the stainless diaphragm inside the regulator. Did you read that post of mine you quoted above?
You need to be checking the fuel pressure with the engine running at boost to see what that pressure is and make sure it holds steady under sustained load.
What was the fuel pump's dead-headed pressure output?
What are you using to measure the AFR?
You did read the BEGI instructions, didn't you???
Tire spin when the boost hits in second gear is fun. But third is even better. Its fun going past rycer hang-outs doing 50mph or so with the tires squealing.
)
haha. But, as soon as I read "Cavalier" in the first post, I knew I had to 
(Read sig for my specs).
But everybody was dyno-ing really crappy that day, maybe it was the system or something... who knows...
Which means more mods, and more $$$
