Power AdderGetting a Supercharger or Turbocharger? Thinking about using Nitrous? All forced induction and N2O topics discussed here.
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That Mocal pump is what I had ordered from Racerpartswholesale, and had ready to go for my rear mount silverado project that never got off the ground before I sold the truck Looked like a very nice pump, and racerpartswholesale seemed like a very good vendor. I sold the turbo, the pump, aluminum lines, boost gauge and pillar pod to a guy who was going to do the same thing to a 97 K2500 silverado. That was almost two years ago and he still hasn't done anything with it either
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You know, I’ll buy that this works when packaging is tight, that it’s better than no turbo in that kind of setup, but for the life of me I can’t figure out why someone would waste their time with this in something like a full size chevy truck, where you have enough spare room under the hood to mount like 16 turbos and still have room for plumbing no matter how retarded the routing you use is.
New ideas are always good, but as 83 Crossfire TA said....it isn't worth doing a remote mount in a truck. The gains are better doing an engine mount. Of course, a remote mount done properly is better than no turbo. In the 80's truck I have there is enough room to mount two 1200+ HP turbos. Besides, a truck is usually a winter vehicle and the salt is major wear & tear on a turbo.
Hmm, I guess you guys are right. I'll have to let STS know their kits for the Tahoe/Yukons/Escalades, are all wrong, and they better recall the ones they've sold, the rust might make them fall off.
You know, I’ll buy that this works when packaging is tight, that it’s better than no turbo in that kind of setup, but for the life of me I can’t figure out why someone would waste their time with this in something like a full size chevy truck, where you have enough spare room under the hood to mount like 16 turbos and still have room for plumbing no matter how retarded the routing you use is.
Wow! I'm glad that someone here has a balanced perspective on design principals!!!! This has been hashed out over, and over and over and over and over.........And it's still the same BS arguments. 'Mine runs fine', 'my 5000# truck runs in the 12's', 'STS's PR people say that heat doesn't really drive the turbo' BLAH, BLAH, BLAH. Let's face it kids, a turbine is driven by expanding exhaust gasses. Period! Go to an air force base if you don't believe me and ask one of the jet mech's. That expansion is because the gas is hotter than the outside world.
I'm not trying to bash any rear mount owners, IF they HAVE TO mount it there, but otherwise it has little merit. Why do you think that the kit makers have such a small turbine side on those designs?! Again, if the performance is adequate for you go for it. But don't bash 87 crossfire TA, his comments are valid.
Although....Well I hate to admit it, Roc87, but your shot about the crossfire injection was a nice shot, a real zinger!
Hmm, I guess you guys are right. I'll have to let STS know their kits for the Tahoe/Yukons/Escalades, are all wrong, and they better recall the ones they've sold, the rust might make them fall off.
In that video, I think it was stock aside from the pcm tune, STS kit, methanol injection and a 3k stall. Since then he's swapped out the turbo that came with the kit for a GT67, added a front mount intercooler, 226cam and 43lb injectors, and a 6.0 instead of the 5.3 which has netted him a 12.33 at 110mph, weighing in at 5250lbs. He said the GT67 has affected the drivability of the truck, as far as lag (that turbine side of the compressor deal). He's now tuned for 13psi of boost rather than 5, and says until the boost comes in above 5, it's like towing a 5th wheel.
it doesnt matter that the turbo is remotely mounted, for the best O2 results mount as close to the engine as possible.
i'm pretty sure thats not true, i have to agree with 83 Crossfire TA... wideband O2 sensors are not designed to be operated under that pressure (pre-turbo)... it needs to go after the turbo, right after the turbo would be best... units like the lc-1 have a good heating system so it doesn't matter that it wouldn't be right after the engine... the sensor will be accurate....
i'm pretty sure thats not true, i have to agree with 83 Crossfire TA... wideband O2 sensors are not designed to be operated under that pressure (pre-turbo)... it needs to go after the turbo, right after the turbo would be best... units like the lc-1 have a good heating system so it doesn't matter that it wouldn't be right after the engine... the sensor will be accurate....
I've had nothing but problems with my LC-1, unsure if it is the sensor or controller. I have checked the wiring and all the connections are soldered and heat-shrinked. Haven't tested the sensor yet, but might just give up on it and try the PLX. For a temporary fix, I put a bung just after the collector for the stock NBo2 (befor the turbo). Wondering if it could be from a rich mixture?(The sensor is about 2' after the turbo in the down pipe).
After building a DIY-WBO2 and looking at the design, I quickly saw that the packaging alone for the LC-1 controller is fragile both from an electrical and mechanical point of view.
I have heard that the LC-1 can't take over-voltage & under-voltage from starting a car or they break electrically sometimes (DIY PROM board and Innov. directions/FAQs). They sometimes have solder failures internally from vibration. Overall, I wouldn't buy one just for the simple fact that electrically they seem like junk. Although, their algorithm seems half decent......the electronics and mechanical design is not that good.
In terms of pre or post turbo installation, pressure affects a WBO2 reading. That is why the LC-1 should be calibrated at first according to the instructions for elevation (pressure) reasons. Now if the LC-1 folks do a real time (quite fast) update then the software could adjust for the increased turbo exh. pressure before the turbo. Highly unlikely that they do it that fast so a safe bet is always to put it after the turbo where the exh. backpressure is lower than before the turbo and where it remains more constant. The update is probably done more slowly because not may go from sea level to 5500' above in msecs. That is how fast the pressure before the turbo changes from no-boost to boost.
Yes, you can put it pre-turbo but you better know how the WBO2 controller algorithm works for the calibration.
the innovate documentation specifies that pressure will damage the O2 sensor, as well as excessive temperatures, both of which a standard O2 would work fine with.
as far a the previous truck arguments... just because you can make something work doesn't make it a good way to do it.
When I flip the Stage II switch, it bleeds off a small amount of air to the wastegate actuator, thereby raising the boost to 10psi.
What is your engine's static compresion ration?
I have 2.0 16V (GM C20XE) 167HP/205Nm (remaped), with 86x86mm pistons, 10.5:1 static compresion ratio, fully open exhaust without cat, with Wizards of NOS (wet system, direct port, progresion controller, 70HP shoot).
Without NOS I have about low 15's on 1/4 mile. On NOS I have high 13's...
I'm tired of filling botles, so I would like to do a turbo. Remote turbo idea seems great to me. I was thinking the same 7psi boost with 14psi overboost on button.
What turbo should I use? What about remaping and firing times? How did you manage to avoid knocking?
What do you think about power steering oil pump for turbo? I was thinking about closed oil system just for turbo. With little oil sump, oil cooler and electrical power steering oil pump to circulate oil through it.
The idea that we could produce a fully divorced oil system seems ideal. since the turbo is already encountering a reduced exhaust temperature, this idea could also help isolate it from the hot engine oil as well.
The problem as I see it would be the fact that the turbo may require a higher oil pressure than we are generating with any of these pumps.
You could use electrical power steering pump that opel zaphira and other cars has (on junkyard). I use one for my power steering instead of mechanical belt driven pump.
It has oil pan on it self. And all you need is litle oil cooler and you have divorced system for litle $...
What's up everyone. I live right by Kenton (89junkyardturbo) and I have some videos I took at Maple Grove of this Cavalier. Very impressive car. Not sure if these videos have been posted here yet but here you go Third Gen Members!
I can't really remember what he ran in the camaro. actually his brother was running the camaro and he was in the cavalier that day. I think that I do remember the camaro being slightly slower though but then again this was his brother driving.
I can't really remember what he ran in the camaro. actually his brother was running the camaro and he was in the cavalier that day. I think that I do remember the camaro being slightly slower though but then again this was his brother driving.
I'm just curious for another update on the Cavalier. If it is still his daily driver it must have some miles under its belt. It's good to see real world durability testing!
i wanna do this on my 94 pathfinder with a vg30e engine. would it be possible to put the turbo after the y pipe and then run the charge pipe back to my intake. i am getting headers and a y pipe so i figured it i already was messing with the exhaust that i might try putting the turbo here. any ideas
maybe a stupid question but i know very little about turbo systems. i was looking at the sts turbo systems, and they seem like they work pretty well (not much lag etc.) but i am building a mild 350 (aprox. 400 hp/tq, 9.5 comp.) and want to stay carburated. how difficult would it be to use a turbo system like this on a carberated engine. would i have to build a custom flange or something to direct the air from the turbo right into the carb?
Its funny i found this page, alot of my questions where answered and alot of my theories were thought of here as well, I have a 97civic D-16y8, 1.6liter with v-tec, it makes 130hp factory, right now i have a 4-2-1 header with 2in collector into 2in cat and 2in all the way down the car to fart can. Denso Iridium plugs, high energy coil, Nology hotwire capacitor wires, P N P intake mani, AFPR set at 40 with vacume, very tight valve lash, slightly tighter than factory. For the turbo setup i have a perfect low milage SRT 4 turbo, exhaust snail cut from manifold and ported and polished in and outlets, same with compressor housing, oil filters sandwhich for oil supply with steel braid line to solid brake line back to steel braid to turbo, out of turbo to Tilton 40-524 oil pump, back to valve cover. 12/1 Fmu and check vavle for Map, but will prob discard those two for ecm and injectors and pull up to get tuned.
I mean no ill will , but ...... this does give flash backs to the Mad Max push button supercharger activation , On a serious note this is pretty d a r n cool , the whole idea of tubos , I always went w/ Nitrous . best wishes in your persuit of hp
Wow. I visit this forum for the first time in like 2 years and this this thread is still at the top!
Just some quick updates on this car. I just finished running it on HOT ROD Drag Week 2008. It ran great but developed a some clutch slip issues. I lost the Quickest 6 Cylinder plaque by 0.018 seconds to a GN (thanks to the clutch- the car had a lot more in it I'm sure, hope to prove it soon). Oh well, it was a ton of fun. Fastest pass to date was on day 1 of drag week, a 12.41 at 112.8 (clutch slipping in 3rd and 4th), highest trap speed was a 12.51 at 116mph. This was at 13psi on a $500 junk yard mini van motor! Totally stock 3400 V6. Stock driveline too, except for an LSD insert in the transaxle.
It now has an intercooler, and is controlled with an MS2 and 42# injectors. The turbo hits hard enough to light off the street tires in 3rd gear at 50+mph. We got 27.5MPG at 75mph with the A/C cranked (it was near a 100 degrees most of drag week!).
Here is a video link to some passes I made at the Steele, AL race. The first run was good, but not my best. The second run you can easily hear that the clutch is slipping.
1) Air filter moved up into rear bumper- we weren't sure if we were going to be driving through hurrican Ike at this point, so I took an extra precaution.
2) Me talking with HOT ROD editer Rob Kinnan. He was wondering how much money I made with this thing!
Just wondering if anyone here has come across any SMALL 12v oil pumps. Im trying to find something different to use on my sled. I am currently running a tiny greylor pump, but the 12v ones will burn up fairly fast and the 24v (which im using now) runs pretty slow, just enough flow and pressure to get the job done...
Space is pretty limited so im not sure if i can get anything else to work...
Looked like a very nice pump, and racerpartswholesale seemed like a very good vendor. I sold the turbo, the pump, aluminum lines, boost gauge and pillar pod to a guy who was going to do the same thing to a 97 K2500 silverado. That was almost two years ago and he still hasn't done anything with it either
Its actually 3245 lbs.
