I've been searching on here for RMT setups. And alot of people have been bashing them. My question is who has one or has experience with one of these setups. Besides 89JYTURBO I haven't seen anyone who can chime in and talk good or bad.

There is tons of good stuff on the Remote mounted turbos at LS1tech.com Just do a search for STS. Alot of people bash them, but the numbers they're producing are really eye openers. If you want the phone number to a dealer who's straight up about the product, PM me and I'll get you in touch with him.

I own the prototype Squires Turbo Sytem for 3rd gens. Just got it running Sunday. Having trouble with my AutoProm data logging, so I have not been able to fully tune it yet.

Car specs:
'87 T/A
'165 converted to '730 waiting on injectors for '749 code
Stock L98
Edelbrock TES headers
High flow cat 3"
Adjustable FP regulator
T56
3.70 posi
5psi boost no IC or Alky

Car is running very rich, but decent. Pulled 297 peak HP on G-tech last night. Have a dyno session on 4/9 to get a better understanding of what the car is doing. Got a lot of tuning left yet to do. If interested in the system, drop me a email and I will put you on the mailing list for the 3rd Gen STS kit. Picts forthcoming to mailing list.

keenan.johnson@emerytelcom.net

I'm going to build my own kit. My father in law is a machinist. And i'm a pretty good welder. I was just wanting to get some good info not uneducated guesses.

Um, OK, so how are you adding fuel?

'749 code is the TY/SY code.... the PCM can then run a 2bar map sensor.

yea, but in his post he said that he has it running and that he's waiting to convert ecm's...

Car put down 327 RWHP & 450 LB/FT RWTQ on Saturday at Dr Gas on 5 psi.
I am sure it has more in it, had it de-tuned as to not blow anything up until I get the 2-bar map up and running.

Wow. Thats funny. My TT IROC put down almost identical numbers. I ran mine on a scorching hot day at the Wildwood, NJ cruise. It put out 327RWHP, and 468RWTQ at 6psi of boost on an otherwise stock 89 L98 (even stock ECM with an FMU). I know there are differences from dyno-to-dyno, but it goes to show that the RMT can put down similar power number's as compared to standard turbo systems.

The STS Rear mount turbo is very impressive!
Kenan has an amazing setup. The fab work looks OEM. It is very consistent and smooth on the dyno runs. I can't wait to see what he can put to the ground after increasing the boost and giving it a dual stage boost control and Methanol.

The sound of the Rear mount turbo is just unbelievable! It is the closest thing to Knight Rider you will ever hear. It would be worth the price of admission just for the sound alone!

This car put as much horsepower and WAY more torque to the ground as the 2005 Corvette 6 speed did! For about $40,000 less!

So are you saying you're running 5 psi on a '730 without adding extra fuel? Did you just seriously richen the mixture at 100kpa, or did it just work out by some chance?

That's impressive torque, as usual with a turbo TPI. It would make an excellent tow engine with those numbers. Did it spike at all before settling at 5 psi?
What are the specs on the turbo?

Yup, right on the money. Bumped up the overall fuel pressure to 45 psi and then used the SyTy and AUJP code to make a hack job on the fueling and timing code. Starts pulling timing at 80 kpa and 3000 RPM, by 100 kpa it has retarded back to about 9 degrees. Idle is a bit erradic in open loop, moves 100 rpm either way, but works.

I only had two days to get a decent tune before dyno, so it is not real pretty and refined.

Got my 30# SVO injectors from Craig Moates Friday, and gaskets for the intake will be here today, so by this weekend I will be running the SyTy code on my '730.
I will then start really attacking the code and fueling and try to get a real smooth and happy curve on the dyno. Hopfully even pick up a little more HP & TQ.

I was trying to watch the boost level and RPM and the guy running the dyno all at the same time, so I did not notice a big spike in boost. I think it did however hit 5.2 psi once.

The turbo is a Garrett 60-1. Don't know much more about it. I will have to ask Rick. It is the same turbo they use in the base LS1 kit though.

Thanks for the kind words Dave, did you get your ride home ok? Drop me your email address too, and I will send you a larger copy of the dyno sheets. Brady tells me interesting stories, we got to talk.

I know this is an old thread, but I am building my own RMT and was wondering what size tubing is used from the turbo to the throttle body on the STS kit? I have a T-70 turbo w/ A/R .84 compressor outlet is 2.5" I was wondering if the STS uses a 2.5" tube. TIA

Joe

The F-Body systems use a 2.5" charge pipe.
A T-70 is a pretty big turbo for remote mount unless you have a stroker motor to spool it up.
Good luck with your project. Let us know how it turns out.

Yup, what Dave said. 2.5" charge pipe. I have been running my STS RMT for over a year now and still get the chills everytime I drive it. $$$ well spent.
I would like to see your install when you finish. Also, any questions or help you need, just fire me an email and I will do what I can.

Keenan

I wish a little more each day that I had just done a RMT instead of waiting half my life to get together this complicated TT setup that adds weight to the wrong end of the car. Hopefully when it's all done I'll change my mind.

HydraQuest, have you had a chance to dyno it again, or have you taken it to the strip? I'm guessing it's pretty well tuned on the $58 code by now. How much boost are you running now?

I do have a pretty close tune on the $58 code now. Still needs some tweaking yet. Never figured it would be so time consuming to get a good tune with the $58 code. I had to pull the 30# injectors and go back to my stock ones because I was having so much trouble being rich with the 30# ones. I think I have a better understanding of the $58 code now, so I will most likely put the 30# ones back in. I am considering a HSR, so I have not invested a whole lot more time into the tune. Have not had another chance to Dyno it again, although one of the car clubs I am in is doing a dyno session later in the fall. I am still running the 5 psi, but thinking about installing an intercooler this summer and bumping it up to 8 psi. Should be fun.

Will do....HydraQuest, how did you run the tubing for the charge pipe? I've got a Mufflex y pipe and was thinking to run it up along the rocker panel like the LS1 guys. Then where do you go from there? I'd like it to come up by the passenger's side where the Firebird's intake location would be. BTW I've got Hooker full length headers. Thanks in advance. HTH.

Joe

The LS1 guys...

Yup, I ran the same way. Once I got to the front for the car, I ran under the front A-arm and then to the radiator support. Then crossed under the radiator support to the area where the Firebird air cleaner would be sitting. I removed the air cleaner box and intake system. Using a hole saw, I cut a hole where the filter box used to be. Then run the charge pipe up through the new hole. Then just followed the original path of the intake pipe to the engine. This, I hope, will allow me to insert a intercooler fairly easily. The only area that is a bit tight is where the automatic trans cooler lines enter the radiator. There is not a whole lot of room here. You can gently bend the lines to clear the new charge pipe however. I did not need to worry about it though because I am running a T56 manual now.
I will have to see about getting some picts online of my setup so others can see and decide for themselves.

Update: I've got the RMT up and running and WWOOOOOWWWWW!!!!! It's got so much more power than I ever did with nitrous!! I took it for a road test and I couldn't get the car to hook at all even on slicks. This is on a bad tune. Major upgrades I did before the road test were #42 injectors, 58mm TB all on a stock '88 MAF ecu. I still have to install my Cartech FMU, MSD-6BTM, and AEM wideband so I can do a decent tune. Driving the car makes me wonder why I didn't do this before!! And it sounds beautiful. I'll take pics of the system when it's all buttoned up. Thanks for your guys help!

Great! I love my RMT and have never looked back.
I put my 30# injectors back in a couple weeks ago and was finally able to get a better tune with them. Still need some tweaking, but running fine none the less.
How much boost are you running?

I'm not even sure of how much boost I'm running just yet because I don't even have a boost gauge hooked up. But the wastegate I have has a .8 bar spring in it which allows just under 12 lbs. of boost.

Wow...up to 12 PSI of boost and no FMU? I am only running 5 PSI on mine. Did you install a intercooler of any kind?
I would be careful running under boost without something to manage extra fuel and timing.
Sounds like fun though...good luck.

No, no intercooler........yet. I was wondering, where did you tee off for the boost gauge? I hooked up mine today. I teed off on the vacuum source by the fuel pressure regulator. I think it's the source for the heater valve. I've got good vacuum there about 18mmHG at idle but when it boosts I've got 0. I think I might have teed it after a check valve? Should I do it before the check valve closer to the vacuum source? I know I've got boost cause the BOV is loud as h3ll! or do I really have to take it for a road test to see it build boost? I was just doing stand stills in the parking lot to see if it would read any boost. Still fairly new to this stuff so please try to bear with me. TIA

How you deal with the oil system on your custom remote kit? Did you install a pump like STS kit? I read on other threads it will be very tricky to build boost on ZZ4 due the compression ratio,do you have any problem with it? Sorry for all my question but I plan to do the same thing with a clone ZZ4 with HSR on top of it I looking for all informations I could find!

im not wishing for the rear mount yet, but i feel ya.. ive had 90% of the components for this, for the last year now... its starting to get to me.

Yes, you do need to put it under load to get a boost reading. Depending on the type of guage you have, it may show vacuum though (- boost). I am using a Dakota Digital Solarix guage and it shows vacuum. You need to make sure you are before any check valves, the check valve will block boost. I split my MAP sensor vaccum line and installed the guage sending unit there.

pat929,
I use a Tilton differential oil cooler pump on the return side of the turbo oil outlet. From the pump it goes into the fuel pump block off plate where I welded a fitting for the line. The oil feed part of the system is teed off the oil presssure switch above the oil filter.

At the time of the engine build I chose a ZZ4 bottom end because I was able to get it cheap (20% off from GM through my shop) and was planning to run a small nitrous shot. The small 100 shot ended up being a 220 HP shot. Now I'm running the turbo and the ZZ4 internals are not going to be up to par (hints of blowby from the big N2O). I'm actually in the process of purchasing lower compression forged pistons and forged rods. I figure if I'm going to run this engine on boost I might as well blow up all eight pistons and have fun doing it before I put the forged internals in. I wouldn't recommend the ZZ4 for any high boost or big nitrous being that they use hypereutectic pistons.

MrDude_1,
The install was fairly easy. It only took one day to get everything together and up and running. If you have 90% of the components then go for it!! Trust me you'll never be sorry you did!!

Huh, I think that the only parts that I’d really need that I don’t have in the garage now is a return pump for the oil, of course, I’d need an f-body without a broken tranny and rear I guess first, huh?

I’m tempted to slap one together just to say that I did, not really any other reason…

well, its not quite that simple for me... for starters, im not doing a rear mount.. when i said that, i ment turbo system in general.

i have a engine->turbo mounting bracket, the mandrel bends, tubing, turbo of course, intercooler, lines, couplers, tbolt clamps, oil feed line, oil return bung, ect...

i still need bigger injectors (i sold the ones i have), a bigger fuel pump (my walbro 255 wont cut it..) a FPR, larger fuel lines, ect....

plus i need to be willing to take the whole car down for ~ a month to do it....


none of that is the big problem... my largest problem, by far, is my lack of a garage. just going out to clean the car is a chore right now.. nevermind taking it apart and fitting the setup.

im not going to read all the posts here so dont flame on me if this has already been said

i hear alot of talk from people saying theyre dyno queens that wont do much for you at the track.

but on the other hand theres a guy in town that builds stuff all the time, i think they have like 20 cars that they own and build for themselves right now all of them running faster than a 13.5 (were also at about 5800ft) and his 2 fastest cars have STS turbo systems, one of those 2 an 8.9 second silverado that could be used as a daily driver.

its easy to make ANY turbo system a dyno queen.



for that matter, its easy to make huge power in any forced induction car... but that doesnt mean the car is capable of putting it to the ground.. nor doesn it mean the owner can drive.

Well I got a couple of quick shots of the RMT in my garage. I finally got a boost gauge hooked up correctly (homemade vacuum manifold) and got a max of 12 psi. My AEM wideband is also hooked up and in 4th gear AF ratio was steady at 10.1-10.3 at full boost with 45 psi fuel pressure on #42 injectors. I also hooked up an MSD 6BTM box and set the dial a 3* retard/lb. of boost just to be on the safe side. This car looses traction easily when I floor it from a cruise at 75-80 MPH on street slicks!! It's almost SCAREY to drive!!!

Looks great! Enjoy your new found power.

Joseph, is you car driven on the street alot??? Those pipes look really low to the ground. Are you afraid of hitting them on something????

I barely drive on the street. It's trailered to the track. The lowest part is actually my Mufflex y-pipe. The turbo charge pipe sits a little higher than the exhaust.

Can you use a AFPR to compensate for more fuel?

I was thinking, I have a 305TPI. I was thinking of running a 350 memcal I have + 24lb injectors and upping the fuel pressure a bit. Will this be enough for mild boost.

Also, FMU's are cheap. But I'm still unsure what they do. Someone enlighten me.

Also, Joseph, can you post a pic of the intake piping?

Does anyone have a detailed parts list of everything needed for a 3rd gen? I mean everything.

An AFPR will only control fuel pressure from vacuum to 0 psi.

With a 305 TPI and #24 injectors you SHOULD have enough fuel mild boost, but I would highly recommend a wideband to see what your actual A/F ratios are and tune from there.

During positive pressure, FMU's block the return line to the tank to temporarily boost fuel pressure feeding the engine at full boost. FMU's ratings- x lbs of fuel pressure per 1 lb of boost.

I'd also like to see a parts list , also what turbo's are you guy's using? Are they internal or external waste gate?

With a wideband, how can I tune? I mean I will know what numbers are at certain RPMs right? But that's it. I have a Speed Density car.

Hydraquest, that SyTy code, how do you hook that up to a stock '730? Or am I asking the wrong question. Maybe I should ask what is it? It enables me to run a 2-bar map?

The SyTy code is just that. It's a hacked BIN file that will allow use a 2 bar map on the 730 and 749 ecms. You can find a lot of info by searching the DYI Prom board. Search for either '808 code' or '$58 2 bar'

The SyTy (BBZB) code is the code GM used on the Syclone/Typhoon turbo charged trucks from the late 90's. There are instructions in the tech articles here that show you how to re-wire your '730 ECM to a '749 ECM so that the SyTy code will work. You then have to adjust the SyTy code for your application. The SyTy was only a V6. By default the SyTy uses a 2-bar MAP, but there are hacks for a 3-bar if you need it.

I am using the LS1 kit from STS for my setup. It uses a Garrett Turbo and a TAIL external waste gate set to ~5 psi. The oil pump also came with the kit and I am not sure who/where STS got it. There is some braided hose used for the oiling system and I modified my oil cap to work for the return inlet for the oil. The exhaust inlet for the turbo also came in the kit, but most of the other pipe I had to replace with custom bent stuff. There is a alarm on the oil return line so that if the pump fails you know about it and can pull over and not damage the turbo. There are some various check valves used to keep the pressure from the turbo going places you don't want it going, like the charcoal canister. I also opted for the TAIL blow off valve too since I am running a T56 6-speed now too. It has a 9 lb spring in it now, but really needs an 11 lb spring to get it to pop a bit sooner. I also bought the Dakota Digital Solarix A/F ratio, Fuel Pressure, and Boost guage and mounted them in a A-piller pod. Other than that, just a AFP regulator and SVO 30# injectors is all I have done. Wideband in on the list next however.

Hope that helps a bit....

L8R

Thanks for the help I was also wondering would 24lb injectors be enough for low boost? like only 5-7 lb's and I'm sorry but I don't know what you mean about the check valve's? Where are they positioned?

That is not quite right ....


A stock fixed FPR works from vacuum to ANY boost level. It will keep the fuel pressure over the injector constant. Yes it works at BOOST too.

A AFPR is exactly the same but it has an adjustable pressure. It also works from vacuum to ANY boost level.

These are both 1:1 regulators. The fuel pressure follow manifold pressure (reference vaccum hose) both at vaccum and boost.

The FMU is a regulator that increases fuel pressure more during boost and reduces it during vaccum. A 2:1 regulator will change the fuel pressure twice as much as the manifold pressure.

Both regulators work by limiting the fuel return flow to raise boost. When a FMU in mounted in series with a FPR or AFPR ( as they usuallt are ) the one that wants the highest fuel pressure wins.



Blue is the FPR pressure.
Pink is the FMU pressure.
The dotted yellow line is the resulting fuel pressure.

These pressures are the differential pressures over the injectors. If you use a fuel pressure meter then manifold pressure will be added too.

JoBy, what does a BEGI fuel adjuster do? Is it the same as an FMU/AFPR combo? What is better? I am planning on going the mechanical Turbo tuning, rather than computer tuning. Nothing crazy, just something to reliably withstand 6-10lbs. I following up on other areas, but this seems to be the most gray area; the fueling with stock tune area.

BEGI is the brand of the FMU.
BEGi Performance Engineering. Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cartech Regulator, FMU

Take a look at this one. It does the "FMU" and "AFPR" in one unit.
BEGi Performance Engineering. Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cartech Regulator, FMU

Multi Role Regulators
The new Multi Role regulator from BEGi is designed to provide complete adjustability to your fuel injection pressure. The MR series takes all of the features found in our rising-rate regulators and adds the extra functionality and convenience of allowing you to adjust your base fuel pressure (the fuel pressure at fuel rail during idle conditions). This allows you to replace your factory fuel pressure regulator with a fully adjustable, easy to mount, single unit.
-----------------------

stock fuel pressure is 43PSI.

an AFPR will raise fuel press. 1PSI per 1PSI of boost
(example, 6PSI of boost. Fuel pressure is now 43+6 = 49PSI)
(keep in mind that 6PSI of boost is pushing fuel back at the bottom of the injector)
(the total pressure across the injector is (43+6) - 6 = 43PSI)
(so the injector acts the the stock #/hr injector it is)

an FMU will raise fuel press. roughly 8PSI to 12PSI per 1PSI of boost
(example, 6PSI of boost with the FMU set at 8PSI of gain)
(fuel pressure is (43+6*8) = 91PSI)
(pressure across the injector is 91PSI - 6PSI = 85PSI)
(injectors act like they are [sqrt(85)/sqrt(43)] = 1.41 times bigger than stock)
(so a 24#/hr injector acts like a 1.41 * 24 = 33.8 #/hr injector)

Quick question, I recently installed an intercooler on my RMT with a 2.5" inlet and a 3" outlet up to the TB. I got a significant amount of pressure drop from the turbo. Is this normal? I'm only getting about 5 lbs of boost after the intercooler install. I used to get about 12 lbs. BTW, the engine now has a Car Tech FMU, Greddy adjustable boost controller (turned all the way up after the intercooler install to get some kind of boost), and TPIS MiniRam.

What are the measurements for your intercooler? You are losing way to much pressure to be efficient.

sorry to bring this back from the dead but i have a question as to what turbo to use for this setup. can i use the same turbos you guys are using? i dont want to over kill it. i want to start with miniml boost untill i can upgrade to better injection. i would also like to know what kind of wastegates you are using? is it an adjustable or are you just replacing springs?