Steven89Iroc

This is a continuation of the BBSDesigns TT kit thread I started last year, for reference...
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ght=BBSDesigns

I've been very busy on the project since last winter. As my sig says I sold the '89 to my dad (who sold it to my uncle which is fixing it up nice) and bought an almost mint blue '90 IROC. It had a 305 TPI and a swapped in TH-350/3200 stall built for drag (ack), and a factory disk 3.42 posi rear (G92)
Since I acquired it last Thanksgiving weekend I've done to it...

Rebuilt and installed '89 L98 with Speed Pro D-cup pistons and GM powdered metal rods, balanced, with ARP hardware, has 9:1 SCR. Otherwise stock for now (well, free mods and K&N's)

converted to a T56/aluminum driveshaft

custom modified factory Y-pipe (bigger Y section, 2.25 into 3", no cats)

SLP Loudmouth catback w/Bullet muffler and 3.5" slash cut tips (yeah, it's loud)

custom tuning by me

Lowered 2"/adjustable panhard bar

17" early style C5 wheels (swapped from '89)

4thgen seats, black interior trim (was all gray), 10" sub/amp

3" harwood bolt-on cowl hood

There's a lot more little stuff but those are the main things.


As far as some more TT specific stuff goes, I deleted all smog equipment to clear up space/save weight (13 lbs), relocated battery to rear, and installed a Walbro 255hp fuel pump.

Things still to do...
I Need to find a smaller radiator overflow bottle, otherwise the TT kit is ready to physically install without the intercooler since it's not ready yet. I need to finish the intercooler (endtanks) and order a couple more aluminum pipes to install that too, and have my twin 1G DSM BOV flanges welded onto the pipes so I can install those.
I need to get the new hood/bumper/fender painted (they were bent/cracked) which I'm having done next weekend.

More immediately, well the oil pan leaks like a siv, I ran it 1.5 quarts low and collapsed a lifter. TICK TICK TICK. So I got new roller lifters, have to replace them this weekend and at the same time I'm going to install the 42 lb/hr injectors, that's what I'm nervous about. I have to drive across the country in two weeks and if it doesn't run well with the injectors/$58 code then I'll have to tow it instead of my Talon, and I really don't want to do that.

I tried to get it dyno'd to get baseline non-turbo numbers, then this lifter havoc started so I may not get to do that.

Once I get to Oklahoma (on leave for a month, then going to Cali) providing the car works properly by then, the TT kit is going on non-intercooled, I only plan on 5-6 psi like that, then the IC should be on in Cali and I'll have to buy an MSD/plugs/wires, then it should be ready to really start tuning and turning up the boost.

I can post three pics but I have more than that I want to share. Will post at least those in a little bit.
More updates as they happen, and sorry this is so long (I tried to keep it short, but had a lot to say)

Steven89Iroc

The top one is when I got it (the '89 is next to it in that pic), the bottom is how it sits now. (It's raining because the angels are crying for the poor trashy looking Camaro, heh).
Yeah I know, it looked better before. I'm working on it.

89JYturbo

Lookin real good Steve. I'm glad to see you are chipping away at it (wasn't sure what you had planned anymore since I haven't been on this board regularly for a while).

I used a Jazz products 1qt overflow tank on my IROC when I installed the TT system. It works well and looks nice.

I'm very anxious to see some TT and IC install pics!

Mark A 91Formula

iTrader: (3)

Cant wait to see some pics! I'm looking at getting the TT headers and fabbing up the rest some time in the future. Gotta sell the Novi2000 setup and get things settled in with the new house, then it's time to put the power back into the bird. I miss not having boost already but right now getting the house takes priority. Already have a pair of T3's out of a thunderbird collecting dust.

TurboedTPI

Just woundering what happen to it? Did you get into an acident? Oh ya, the chrome irocs looked bad ***, why'd you swap them?Good luck on the turbo project.

Steven89Iroc

Kenton, I couldn't find anything on Google about Jazz Products, link? It sounds expensive though, I was thinking more along the lines of paying a visit to U-Wrench-It and finding a suitable smaller JY replacement for about two dollars. I want to put it right next to the radiator where the edge of the battery used to lie.
Be sure that I will post pics as they become available.

Mark, boost truly is addicting, it's why I sold my original '89 IROC (5 years ago) to get the Talon, heh. That was a mistake that I'm finally making up for. Another reason I've been plugging away at it so adamently is because I know shortly I'll be out of the Navy (little over a year) and life will really need to start happening so I'd like to have it all done before then. My girlfriend and I plan on getting married then so modding the cars will definitely take a backburner for a long while, fortunately I'll still be able to have fun in them.

TurboedTPI, you can't tell in that low-res pic, but the guy I bought it from hit a small deer so the bumper was cracked pretty bad on the drivers side and the drivers side fender was creased back toward the rear a little, also the turn signal and fog light was busted (fixed now). It was only cosmetic, nothing else damaged. The hood was fine (except a big paint chip), I just wanted a cowl hood for cooling and looks.
Other than that it was in really good condition, and he took off $1500 from the price of the car for the damage so I'm not complaining, heh. It will be painted next weekend.

I knew someone would ask about the chrome IROC's. I think they look good, but I personally think the chrome is a bit too blingin', the C5's compliment the body lines perfectly, and the IROC's were not only skinnier (8" vs. 8.5"), but heavier (8 lbs. per wheel) than the C5's. Choice clear.
Thanks for the GL.

The car is almost back together, the new lifters are in along with the 42pph injectors, I just have to button everything else back up. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

Steven89Iroc

The car runs again. Everything worked out good so far.
The big injectors really aren't a big problem at all, with $8D anyway. It changed the tune a little bit (with only changing the injector constant to 42), but is still very much driveable.

OBTW, I put on the turbo kit valve covers (oil returns into them) since I had the old ones off, and I don't know what's up with the connections on them.
There isn't a screw-in oil cap hole anymore because it was welded up, the two regular holes in them (for the grommets for PCV) are larger than the old ones, but there is a pipe welded on for the PCV return which means the oil fill will be one of the larger holes but can't use a regular oil cap and it sits right below the downpipe, and I have to get a big grommet for the PCV valve.

That was confusing I know, but if you look at the TT kit pics you can compare them to stock centerbolt valve covers to sort of see what I mean. It won't be too hard to figure out what to do with it all, but that could've been done a better way I'm sure.

I also installed the oil feed lines with the "L" and "T" fittings in the back of the block (old style oil pressure sender port) and plugged them off for now, that worked out nicely. One less thing I have to mess with later.

89JYturbo

Sorry, JAZ products with one 'Z'. I don't know what you call expensive, but I think it was only $15 from Jegs or Summit. Maybe that is a lot to accomplish such a minor function, but I like the way it looks. Maybe you can find a nice one out of the 'yard too.

Here is mine JAZ reservoir installed, right next to the passenger side radiator tank:

Steven89Iroc

Okay, that looks good. Did I ever mention that car is awesomely sweet and very clean?
$15 isn't very expensive, heh. I did already get a 1 qt overflow from a Geo Metro for $2 though, lol. I just have to make a bracket.
However, that's not the important issue anymore...

Edit: Shortened because I type too much.

The T56 bellhousing bolts ripped out of the bellhousing because they had been previously overtorqued, so far as we could figure out. I need to helicoil them to get it going safely again, but some of them are holding decently for now.

Cliff notes: Car's broken, I'm broken and out of time, car's going in storage without TT's and I'm driving the Talon to California.

Steven89Iroc

Well I'm in California with the Talon and the Camaro's in storage until October '06. :/

Here's recent pics though, from the day before it went into storage...





TT kit valve covers and temporary oil caps/PCV provision. It's gonna be a tight fit in there with all that A/C crap.







The battery now sits comfortably in the spare tire well. The intercooler pipe going to the TB will come up through here.



Next update, next year.

Steven89Iroc

Back from the dead, as promised!

Here's a progress pic... In goes the bellhousing helicoils, Spec stage III, new oil pan and timing cover. It will only be up long enough to dyno it and/or take it to the strip to get some baseline N/A numbers, then the setup gets installed.

I have a lot to do in a little time, anyone in the central Oklahoma area is welcome to come hang out and help me.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

It's looking good. I like your shop setup. Kind of like mine with not much room to work. I think I have that same plastic toolbox. Is that a Harley?

Steven89Iroc

Thanks. It's my dad's barn-turned-garage, the red one you can see in an above pic. There's enough room to move around a little, good enough I guess. I'm going to put up a steel garage when my Fiancee and I find a house in MD (soon).

The bike is a Yamaha Virago 1000, it looks similar to some Harley's. My dad gave it to me, it just needs a new engine (doh).

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

where in MD?

Steven89Iroc

D.C. vicinity, probably either Charles or PG (yuck) county.
I think this Camaro is going to be the biggest obstacle for obtaining residency status so I can get in-state rates at UMD, MD is almost as strict as Kali. Any ideas?

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Heh, I went to UMD and then worked there for a while… I live at the extreme north end of PG, kind of where PG, Montgomery and Howard come together, literally a less then a few hundred feet from both county lines… nice hood and only 9 miles (11-12min in rush hour) to UMD.

What exactly is the problem with the ‘rock? With an ’89 it just has to pass the treadmill, have a cat and exhaust that goes all the way to the rear bumper. Well, that and pass the initial safety inspection… What part do you have a problem with?

Steven89Iroc

Cool, you're not far from wherever I'll be. We'll see when we get a house.

It's missing EGR, AIR, the smog pump, all lines and valves for all of it, the cat, and sitting in the place of most of that will be two big turbos (okay, small ones). I don't see how any sane inspector would let me pass visual, let alone let me put it on the treadmill just to fail miserably. *shrug*

With careful re-engineering and lots of work I could probably somehow fit all that back in there (well the cat would be easy at least), but I'm not sure they wouldn't see the turbos and just laugh, close the hood, and tell me "try again". :/
I do have an idea to make dummy turbos, bypass pipes that properly connect to all the pipes the turbos connect to, though that would make a funky looking exhaust setup. Maybe it would let me fit some stuff back in there temporarily and it would also give me the option to test the system with and without boost (track numbers, dyno comparisons, off boost WOT tuning).

Either way, this is all too much dern work. I started to build this car for Oklahoma, which doesn't even have inspections, let alone emissions testing. Heh

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

You’re worrying about the wrong thing.

The visual inspection here is basically checking under the car with a mirror for a cat, making sure the tailpipes are somewhere that they can reach them under the back bumper without getting under the car, and pulling the gas cap and pressure testing it.

Get a cat on it and tune it so it passes the treadmill test and you’re good… there are 10s, and even a few 9s cars around here on the streets that are “emissions legal”

You’ll actually have a bigger issue with the “safety inspection” since at that point they do poke around the car and do note what is on the car and not on the car (the exhaust/converter is part of that). Of course, since safety inspections are done once when you register the car and done by a private station, it’s a lot easier to find someone to overlook a few things that are technically safe but maybe don’t meet the letter of their checklist.

92RS(real slow)

Sweet car keep us updated

ttypecamaro

iTrader: (2)

As far as emmisions testing here in MD... I live in Baltimore county and haven't had my TTCamaro tested since Aug 2002. Every 4 months you call the 1-800 number for VEIP and request an extension, and they give you 4 more months. If they ask a reason, think of something too complicated for them to understand. I've never lied because I'm always breaking crap, or in the middle of a project when test time comes. I'd like to check out your car when its all said and done, and you're moved. Also, my brother doesn't have to get his car tested because its "too low" to fit on the rollers

Steven89Iroc

Wow, that all sounds like somewhat good news. I can deal with that (what both of you have said).
Too low to fit on the rollers, huh? Gee, where did my front springs go again?
Sure thing, I'll be glad to let you check out the car when I'm settled over there. I'd love to check out your car too! You'll have to keep up with me on here though, as I'll be busy and forgetful for the rest of my life, heh.

Thanks! Okay.
Nothing to ruin the day like two big metal rods falling on your car and dinging/chipping the door because some idiot placed them high up on a shaky bench. Oh well, it adds 'character' I guess.
I just took the hood off to get the hoist in there to lift the engine to change the oil pan/etc since I have all the parts finally, and I figured out that Camaros have long noses. I did the engine swap before in a Hobby Shop where there was an overhead hoist, I didn't know that you can't use a normal cherry picker without removing the front clip. Looks like I'll be installing the front mount sooner than planned because that bumper isn't coming off more times than it has to.
BTW, an Edelbrock 8881 aluminum water pump is 5.5 lbs lighter than a stock one. It all adds up, so far I got rid of 90 lbs or so from the car.

Steven89Iroc

...and here's where it'll go.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I got away for a short while with “too low for the rollers” with my stock 97 WS6 (the body work didn’t clear) and my ’83 TA (3rd gen lowered about 3”… it really was too low), but more recently that won’t fly. Newer cars just do the plug in test and older cars they’ll have you pull around the other way and do a stationary idle test.

As far as extensions… I think that I’ve done that with my truck since ’91, actually for legit reasons, and finally when it was all fixed and ready to go, the day before I blew a headgasket which fouled the O2 and, well things got unhappy from there. My formula is in the same position with a blown up tranny and messed up rear so it really isn’t moving. I just avoided recommending that since who knows how long they’ll be cool about it. Weird thing about the 4months thing. It depends on who it is apparently, I’ve always gotten 6 month extensions, and I think my wife figured out some way to get them via email.

Steven89Iroc

It's back together N/A and everything has gone GREAT so far. Man, that Spec stage III is grabby. It should smooth out more as I get some miles on it.

I didn't have time for the track unfortunately, but I got it dyno'd today for the baseline #'s. Somehow I guessed it would put down exactly what it did.

230whp @ 4300-4500 rpm
330wtq @ I forget because they only printed me the HP chart. *DOH*

Not bad for a pretty much stock L98 I think. The runs were way lean, spiking to 14.5:1 AFR at 4700. I richened it up for the second run, but not nearly enough as it was still lean. That only 'gained' 1hp and 5 lb/ft, hehe.

We'll see sometime in the future what a tuned 15 psi on 25% E85 will do to those numbers! A lot, I hope. Tomorrow it goes back under the knife.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

If that was a stock SD (AUJP) bin then you could have reached the BPW limit when it does its internal calculation. This occurs when installing larger injector constants and/or larger cyl volume. It may be why you didn't see a change when you upped the VE table. I forget where it maxes out but check the DIY-PROM board. I think Z69 was the first to make the BIN mod to fix this. Search for his posts or PM him.

You are cutting it real close with 42#/hrs, 15PSI intercooled, and 25% E85. You might want to run the numbers, but gut feel is that you will exceed the injectors fuel limit or be very close to it.

EDIT: The gnturbocalculator.xls came up with very close numbers as to your dyno numbers. Looks like those injectors will be OK at 15PSI....barely.

Steven89Iroc

Yeah, it sounds like the code may be my problem. It's not a big issue as I need to change it for boost anyway, and the car is going back down until then.

I got the same results and have the same feeling about the 42's. They are running at 46.8 lb/hr right now though, as I bumped the FP to 54psi with a quarter in the FPR. That's perfect, as I wanted 55 psi. Even still, I know they will be very close to the limit if not exceeding it a bit. 25% E85, or 21% ethanol, will require me to run about 8% richer, which was made up for by the 11% raise in FP if compared to gasoline. However, I should easily make a bit more power with the E21 vs. 93 octane, further pushing the limits. If I reach them, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
I'm actually probably a bit lax on the matter considering my Talon's huge success with E85 even though the 650cc injectors are static at 5500-7500rpm while running it. For some reason this works out for the engine because it doesn't knock a bit and the EGT's are still well within tolerable ranges. Also, the car doesn't seem to be affected NEARLY as much by changes in AFR. Overall, the stuff is just plain forgiving and powerful at the same time.
Of course that's with straight E85, which I won't have NEARLY enough fuel flow for in my Camaro with 15 psi. I've had very good luck with a 25% mix in the Talon too, but I'm sure it wasn't quite as forgiving. So, we'll see.
Thanks for your info.

Steven89Iroc

Bringing the $58 discussion into here...

The car is running on the $58 (well before I started tearing it apart again), but not very well. My bin was extremely rough at best, but it would actually idle decent some of the time.
JUNKCLTR, just for educational purposes (heh) I plugged in your open loop bin that you sent me, and it immediately ran better. Obviously this is way out of tune for my car (mainly too lean down low and presumably too rich up top, compared to your car), but it wasn't all that bad. Out of curiousity I tried it in closed loop, and it wouldn't idle without dying (imagine that). I went over the code briefly and I see that you changed a lot of stuff that I don't understand fully (DOH). I don't really like this $58 not only because it's missing some good things, but because I'm just more comfortable with $8D now. Your BAUJP sounds very good, exactly what I was wishing existed a couple years ago, WB>NB and all. If you're going to release it to the public when you get everything in there that you want to, be sure I'll be waiting in line. :O

For those bored of reading and skipping over all the words, I'll have some progress pics up soon.

Mark A 91Formula

iTrader: (3)

Idle on the $58 is pretty tricky, took me forever to get a decent idle, but once you get it there everything else is easier to tune. I'm running 36lb injectors in an otherwise stock 305. Idle is pretty good with a little hunting from time to time, but very liveable. Somewhere I have the notes I made while tuning the idle, if I find them I'll post for everyones benefit as idle is everyones biggest stumbling block with $58. If you want a bin to try out and dissect send me a PM and I'll send it. The tune would be off for you but I think the idle would be pretty close and it may give you something to get you closer.

Tony89GTA

iTrader: (7)

Wow if you can do this that would be great my car kind of has a 300 rpm hunting idle when warm that I would like to fix up, wasn't to bad when I had the 30Ibs injectors in but these 42's are kind of a pain. Plus I never really had time to work on it to figure it out since always had driveline problems and didn't help when laptop's are dieing on me

Steven89Iroc

Modified bumper


Mounted


Installed





As you can see I made for much more airflow behind the IC. The piece you can see bolted to the bottom section of the middle is the IC standoff I made from the old radiator hose, it keeps the IC off the bumper, the rubber rests on a tube (the upper part doesn't need a standoff, it doesn't touch).

The bracket is a 1.25 x .25 steel bar from Home Depot Racing, it bolts to the fascia supports, which are actually MUCH stronger than they look. Each one individually held up all 155 lbs of me bouncing up and down, and that was before I re-inforced them with more screws. They look kind of jacked up because I forced a drill in there partway to drill the holes for more screws, heh. It didn't hurt them. The bar is bent up to give it additional needed height. The two pieces on top of the steel bar are more pieces of the steel bar to help keep it more solid. That IC isn't going anywhere, but it has enough slight damping to keep it from receiving possibly harmful vibrations.

Obviously I had to hack up the front fascia, but I did it as tastefully as possible. A Sharpie and a careful hand with a die-grinder go a long way.
The bottom of the bumper rests 'slightly' on the front of the IC, just enough to keep it in place (as if the pipes won't), but doesn't push on it. The bottom radiator feed panel (for lack of better terms, NOT the airdam), the one that goes from the front GFX up to the bumper, doesn't interfere with the IC at all, it goes right underneath it. The top of the IC doesn't touch any part of the bumper or fascia, though it's perfectly close.

I'll have better pics when the car is finished.

I'm glad that's done! I wish I could say the same for the whole setup... onward I go.

Steven89Iroc

That would be great. The more onfo the better! I think it may be harder to tune the 47 lb/hr I'm running right now, but I do want to see how yours is tuned. I'll send a PM.

89JYturbo

Awesome job on that IC install. I'm anxious to see a shot with it setting on the ground. Chalk this up as another thing I really wish I had done when I painted my car.

Steven89Iroc

Thanks.
I'm not able to get ground pics just yet, but I will when it's mostly done. Honestly these pics from my cruddy camera really don't do it justice. It looks way better than I thought it would. I miss the foglights, but I'll take a functional FMIC over those anyday.

92RS(real slow)

I want your car

Steven89Iroc

Driver's header


Passenger's header


Turbos


One acronym sums up the day. PITB
But just a few minutes ago I was rewarded with the sound of my twin turbos whining through the open downpipes. It sounds sweet!

Almost nothing fit right, but the turbos are finally on there.
The biggest issue is that the #7 header primary is 1mm from the brake booster, as you can see in the pic. In fact, it was resting on the brake booster until I loosened up all the tranny mount bolts and jiggled that over to the passenger side as far as I could. I don't know yet what I'm going to do about that issue. The booster casing is metal, but the diapragm inside sure isn't! Any ideas anyone?
I'm concerned about everything melting. There isn't room to breathe in there at all.
I still need to fabricate the aluminum IC pipes then finish up all the little stuff.

Here's the kicker. I'm trying to leave for Maryland in this car in 5 days, I have to pack everything still, and that's a 1500 mile trip. At least I have a garage to put it in, my fiancee and I just bought a house! We're getting married in less than two weeks, and I want to drive us away in our twin turbo IROC-Z.

I won't have enough time to get it fully finished, but I can have it driveable and boostable to the WG settings (I imagine they're around 6-7 psi) to get there, I hope. Some of the minor stuff is and will be rigged up temporarily (mainly the exhaust connections), but it shouldn't have a problem making it, I hope. The heat is my biggest concern at the moment.
Onward I go...

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that sounds tight. If I had to do 1500 miles with a new setup I would not make it hit boost. Actually, I would take an $8D bin that worked in the car before the turbos, set the injector constant, and increase the Upper VE table for all RPMS at 90 and 100KPA by 10%. Then decrease the TPS vs. RPM values to enter PE MODE. I would set them at 35%. That way you will enter PE mode when the TPS is greater than 35% and the MAP is roughly higher than 90KPA.
Then keep your foot out of it so it won't boost more than 5PSI. That is the great thing about turbos. With the size you have, you could ease on the throttle when accelerating and never hit boost the entire 1500 mile drive. It will save on gas if you are easy on it(not boosting) and allow you to tune later on.

EDIT: Most of the bolt-on stuff I used to buy never seemed to fit properly. I ended up taking the route of just buying the tools and materials and making as much as I could so it would fit the way I wanted it. In the end, you save because the tools make up for the prices of buying the bolt-on stuff.

Brettlinetta

I heard you can use the hydraulic booster assembly off astro vans on these rigs.. I think Grand nationals used them for a year or two as well.

Might be just the ticket for your brake woes

-Brett

Steven89Iroc

Therein lies the problem. There's NO way I'll be able to keep my foot out of my freshly turbo'd Camaro for 1500 miles, even with only 6-7 psi, at least a few times. I just won't be able to do it, heh. It would probably cruise better with the $8D, but I really don't want to push the limits past the 1-bar that much (or at all, ideally).

I REALLY wanted to make the stuff myself but I had no place to do it, even if I did buy the tools. I will have space now, but I'd rather be spending time with my new wife than working on the car all the time. Imagine that! That's why I've been trying so hard to get this project mostly complete. If I had to do it over again I'd EASILY choose fabbing everything myself instead of just half of it. It's much more satisfying that way anyway.

Factory hydraulic brake boosters huh? Cool, I'll look into it. Thanks.

Jekyll & Hyde

Use that heat wrap stuff and cover your brake booster up before you get it driving, it doesn't take a lot of heat to cook the fluid. It would be very bad to finish it all up and then not be able to stop.

Steven89Iroc

I do have wrap of various sorts and plan on wrapping some things before I leave, but none will fit in between the header and booster. If I squeezed it in there, there would be direct contact for the heat to travel through.
I agree, losing brakes is not high on my priority list, heh. Why would it cook the fluid from heating up the booster? Fluid isn't in there. I don't think it would transfer enough heat over to the master cylinder to cook the fluid, but I could be wrong. I will be wrapping the brake lines and part of the master cylinder, though. At worst I'd think I'd lose power brakes, not all brakes.

89JYturbo

Looking good. Did you try loosening all the bolts holding the brake booster to the firewall and prying it as far to the left as possible? That may give you 2mm of clearance I'd also consider some aluminum reflective tape such as used in houshold duct work. That stuff is extremely sticky and is thin enough to fit in such an area.

If you were closer to me I'd come help you out. Sounds like you will be very busy the next few weeks. Good luck!
----------
Does the DP go behind the #7 primary?

Jekyll & Hyde

Some turbo setups that I have seen on here were requiring brake line rerouting. Do you have to do this before you leave? DOT 3 brake fluid is only good to 401* F, I know that sounds like alot, but the turbos will be creating about three times that amount of heat.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

You could shim the right side of the booster for the 1500 mile ride and fix it better later on.

Steven89Iroc

Once the car started yesterday, the primary did in fact somehow move over to rest fully against the booster. Today before I moved it I started it up and let it idle for 5 or 10 minutes, checking everything including the heat on the booster. It was extremely hot to the touch, as you can imagine. In addition, the engine vibration transferred over too. This is of course not acceptable by any stretch.

Close!

There was no play in the booster so I couldn't do that, but what I did was shim the inner two bolts with 2 shims each (they said 018, maybe .018"? They look thicker). I tested the power brakes with the car on and stationary, it seems that nothing came too far out of alignment by doing that (I guess I'll see when I try to stop!). This gave about 1/2" of clearance from the front shell of the booster, and about 1/4" of clearance from the seam where the front and rear halves meet. That's still dangerously close, but it's a definite improvement! I can fit some reflective shielding on the booster now, maybe it'll be driveable like that. Tomorrow I'm going to do the idle test again.

Kenton, thanks for the 'offer' of help! It's cool to even know you would help if you could. I'll definitely be very busy in the next few weeks! Even more so if I don't get this car drivable in two days, as I will have to fly back here after the honeymoon to finish it.
The downpipe actually goes inside of the #7 primary, between the primary and the flange that is. So yes, if that's what you meant. It's not a bad idea in itself, except that it likes the power brakes a little too much that way. I think it could have been done the same as the other side, where the #8 primary goes down and in between the DP and block.

I don't think I'll have to reroute the brake lines, I do think that they're far enough away (though still close) that wrapping them up will sufficiently protect them.

Otherwise, I didn't get enough done today because of that. I bought some cheesy Auto Zone exhaust repair flex sections and U-bolts that I'm going to use for now to hook up the exhaust. It's ugly and cheap, and probably unreliable, but it should work until I start building a new Y-pipe with a cat. I got them hooked up to the DP's, and the Y-pipe cut to match up with them, but I haven't installed that yet.
I took several hours figuring out how to route and hold plug wires to keep them off the headers, DP's, and turbos. I think everything is situated decently except the #8 wire, which needs to be replaced with a longer one to clear.
I mounted up the intake pipes and air filters so I can route the IC pipes around them (kinda backwards I know, but the intake pipes were almost set-up already from the get-go). I have pics of that, but I'll post 'em later.
I also shortened my Y section for the IC pipes, and bent A/C lines and moved heater lines to clear the IC pipes. I haven't installed any yet, though.

Still needed:
-The whole IC pipe mess
-Have alum BOV flanges welded on (probably won't get to yet)
-Hook up Exhaust to flex sections
-Figure out how to make a front exhaust bracket because I don't trust the flex sections to hold weight (I lost the bracket when I swapped in the T56)
-Hook up boost gauge (I just have to run the hose)
-Shield various melting points
-Extend evap canister connector
-Replace #8 wire

I think that's about it, but that's still a lot of work! (Mainly #1)

Steven89Iroc

Haha, good idea! I was still typing when you posted.

Steven89Iroc

Still needed:
-3/4 of the IC pipe mess
-Hook up boost gauge (I just have to run the hose)
-Extend evap canister connector and O2 sensor wire

Pics when complete

Ed Z28 350

Absolutely awesome job!

Look into the "Power Master" Hydrobooster from the 87 Grand National. It is much smaller than the vacuum booster, and shouldn't be too difficult to install. (The 89 TTA may have used a hydrobooster as well but I'm not sure). All you'd need to do is modify your P/S pump with an additional return tube. The system runs off the power steering system by the way. It might be the way to go.

Good luck and post pics!

Drac0nic

The GN stuff is getting damn expensive they stopped making Power masters a while back. Some Astro vans used a PS powered booster as well I dunno if it'll fit or not but being a GM product there'sa good possiblity that it'd be a bolt in.

Steven89Iroc

Thanks guys. I think for the long term the hydraulic brakes are the way to go. That project will be a little ways off though.

Still needed:
-IC pipes welded (tomorrow morning) and re-installed permanently
-Boost gauge plugged in (5 minutes)
-Extend evap canister connector and O2 sensor wire (5 minutes)
-Run BOV source lines, because they're getting installed (5 minutes)

The IC pipe project was every bit as tedious as the FMIC install. As soon as the alum pipes are welded it will be complete except for the steel pipes I had to use in a couple places because I didn't have enough alum. Later on I'll get more to replace the steel ones.

The exhaust is pretty cheesy because of those flex sections, and the pass. side leaks a little. That can't be helped because the part of the factory Y-pipe that it clamped on to is smaller than 2.25" so it buckled the flex. I even put two clamps on it. It's not real bad, though. I did make a bracket to put the weight of the exhaust on up there. The next project (in MD) will be to totally redo the cruddy flowing, leaky, catless Y-pipe. It'll work for now.

Looks like I'll make it. I have tomorrow and half of Saturday before I have to leave. That'll give me time to test out heat and other issues and to get everything else ready.

Still not really pic worthy, but will be tomorrow (even though it's filthy).

Steven89Iroc

It's finished. Ugly, but finished.
I'm not doing very well. I've had little sleep the last 3 nights and I didn't get stuff taken care of today. I hope all is well with the car tomorrow. The guy took forever to start welding my pipes so I worked late again. The pipe setup is yucky looking in some areas and has cheap clamps. Have to fix later.
Better pics and more eventually.
Wish me luck.